Tools & supplies
- Basic hand tools: socket set (8–19 mm), ratchet, extensions, swivel joint.
- Torque wrench (0–100 Nm range) — required for correct bolt torque.
- Drain pan (large, 6–10 L).
- Fluid pump or long-neck funnel for ATF refill via dipstick tube.
- Jack and quality jack stands (rated) or a lift. Wheel chocks.
- Flat-blade scraper or gasket scraper, wire brush, shop rags.
- Clean disposable gloves, safety glasses.
- Replacement parts: transmission filter (model-specific), pan gasket or high-temp RTV (as specified), new crush washer for drain plug if fitted, replacement pan bolts if seized/damaged.
- New ATF: manufacturer-specified type (Toyota ATF WS on many modern Hiluxes; older models may use Dexron-type). Quantity varies by model — typically 4–8 L for a partial drain, more for converter drain; check service manual for exact capacity.
- Optional: small container and magnet cleaner for metal particles, thread locker for certain bolts if manual specifies.

Safety precautions (do them)
1. Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock wheels front and rear.
2. Work with engine OFF and key removed. Disconnect negative battery terminal if you’ll be under car for an extended time or working near electrical connectors.
3. Use properly rated jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
4. Wear safety glasses and gloves. Transmission fluid is hot — allow engine to cool before starting if recently driven.
5. Dispose of old fluid and filter per local regulations.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1. Warm the transmission (optional but recommended).
- Drive the truck a short distance to bring fluid to operating temperature — 40–60 °C (warm to the touch). Warm fluid drains faster and carries debris out. Turn engine off and let it sit 5–10 minutes so fluid won’t scald you.

2. Raise and secure vehicle.
- Loosen lug nuts (if removing wheels for access), raise vehicle with jack, support on jack stands. Chock remaining wheels.

3. Position drain pan.
- Place drain pan under transmission oil pan. Remove any skid plates that block access.

4. Drain pan fluid.
- If pan has a drain plug, remove it first and let fluid drain. If no drain plug, loosen pan bolts progressively from outer bolts inward to allow fluid to run out slowly from one side. Break bolts in a star pattern a few turns each to control flow and avoid sudden dumping.

5. Remove pan.
- Remove all bolts and carefully lower the pan. Expect residual fluid; tilt pan to keep spilled fluid in drain pan. Clean pan thoroughly: scrape off old gasket material, wipe off sludge, clean magnets (scrape metal off magnets and collect for inspection). Inspect pan for heavy metal deposits (serious sign of internal wear).

6. Remove old filter.
- The filter usually attaches with two bolts or a single bolt & O-ring. Remove mounting bolts and pull filter straight down. Note orientation and any O-rings — replace them. Some filters are pressed into a housing — follow the same removal procedure.

7. Inspect and clean.
- Inspect mating surface on transmission case for old gasket or RTV. Clean with scraper and rags. Check filter mounting area for damage. Check pan bolts for stripped threads; replace if needed.

8. Install new filter.
- Fit new filter and any O‑rings or seals supplied with the kit. Hand-tighten mounting bolts, then torque to spec (refer to service manual). Typical bolt torque is low — often in the 6–15 Nm range — do not over-torque. Apply light coating of ATF to new gasket if paper/rubber style.

9. Fit new pan gasket / seal pan.
- If a gasket: place new gasket on pan, reinstall pan and hand-start bolts evenly. If RTV: apply a continuous bead as specified, let set if required, then install pan. Tighten bolts in a crisscross/star pattern incrementally to final torque. Typical pan bolt torque for Toyota transmissions is low — generally 7–12 Nm; consult vehicle-specific spec. Over-tightening will crush gasket and cause leaks or strip threads.

10. Reinstall drain plug & crush washer.
- If removed, install drain plug with new crush washer and torque to spec (if specified). Typical small plug torque is 20–30 Nm, but check manual.

11. Lower vehicle slightly for refill access or leave raised if using pump.
- Put vehicle back level. Reinstall any skid plates or removed items.

12. Refill ATF.
- Use a fluid pump or long funnel to add ATF through the transmission dipstick tube. Add the amount equal to the amount drained, then proceed to check level as below. Use only the specified ATF grade.

13. Warm up & check fluid level.
- Start engine and let idle until transmission fluid reaches operating temperature (run through gears: shift slowly from P to R to N to D and back — each for a few seconds — to distribute fluid). Keep parking brake engaged and wheels chocked.
- With engine idling and transmission in Park (refer to manual — some specify P), check fluid level at the dipstick. With hot fluid, level should be between the HOT marks. Add fluid in small amounts — never overfill. Recheck after each small addition.

14. Inspect for leaks and road test.
- With correct level, shut off engine and inspect pan area for leaks. Lower truck and take a short drive to cycle fluid; recheck level and leaks again. Recheck after 50–100 km.

How each tool is used (specifics)
- Torque wrench: final torque of pan bolts and filter bolts. Use to prevent leaks/stripped threads. Set to specified Nm and tighten in incremental sequences.
- Socket/ratchet: break loose bolts, remove pan, remove filter mounting bolts. Use extensions and swivel where access is tight.
- Fluid pump / funnel: pumps ATF into dipstick tube without spilling. Use slow, steady pumping to avoid air pockets.
- Gasket scraper: remove old gasket and sealant from mating surfaces. Scrape gently to avoid gouging aluminum.
- Drain pan: catch old fluid — use on level ground and keep organized for disposal.
- Jack & stands: raise and secure vehicle; stands should be placed under manufacturer‑recommended lift points.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Using wrong ATF: can cause harsh shifting or damage. Always use manufacturer-specified fluid.
- Overfilling: causes foaming, overheating, slipping. Always set to hot level as specified and add gradually.
- Underfilling: causes overheating and poor engagement. Check level at operating temp.
- Reusing old gasket or filter: leads to leaks and contamination. Always replace filter and gasket/seal.
- Stripping pan bolts: avoid overtightening; if bolts are seized, heat and penetrating oil may help, but replace damaged bolts.
- Cross-threading drain plug: use correct crush washer and hand-start threads before tightening.
- Not cleaning magnet/pan: missing metal debris can mask internal wear — clean thoroughly.
- Not checking for metal debris: heavy filings or chunks indicate transmission failure — stop and inspect further or consult specialist.
- Incorrect torque sequence: causes warped pan and leaks — tighten evenly in a cross/star pattern.
- Not warming fluid before level check: cold level is inaccurate. Check with hot fluid in specified gear and engine condition.

Replacement parts required (summary)
- Transmission filter (vehicle-specific).
- Pan gasket or specified RTV sealant.
- Crush washer for drain plug (if applicable).
- Fresh ATF (manufacturer type and quantity per model).
- Optional: new pan bolts if original bolts are damaged or torque-to-yield type.

Final checks
- Verify no leaks, correct level at operating temp, proper shifting behavior. Monitor for abnormal noises or metal in pan. Recheck level and bolts after 50–100 km.

Done.
rteeqp73

Rebuilding Toyota Hilux 2nd Engine- Toyota Hilux Engine Restoration | Rebuilding Toyota Hilux 2nd Engine- Toyota Hilux Engine Restoration |

VINTAGE HILUX saved from JUNKYARD & restored! Jocko's ground-up rebuild of his Dream 4WD Jocko's taking his rusty, tired & worn-out old 1982 Toyota Hilux that took him to the top of Australia, and restoring it to its former ...

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