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Toyota Hilux 2005-2013 factory workshop and repair manual download

• Safety first — always work on firm, level ground; wear gloves and eye protection; never crawl under a vehicle supported only by a jack.

• What you need (basic tools, each tool explained)
• Floor jack (recommended) — a hydraulic jack with a wide saddle that lifts the vehicle easily; use the vehicle's jacking points (see owner’s manual). Provides stable raising and easier, faster work than a scissor jack.
• Scissor jack (basic emergency jack) — small screw‑type jack found with many cars; can be used but is slower and less stable than a floor jack. OK only if you also use proper jack stands and work one wheel at a time.
• Jack stands (pair) — heavy, rated support stands that hold the vehicle after lifting; never rely on a jack alone. Place stands under the vehicle’s recommended support points and lower the vehicle onto them.
• Wheel chocks (pair) — wedges or blocks (rubber or wood) to stop wheels from rolling. Place behind and/or in front of wheels that stay on the ground.
• Lug wrench or socket and breaker bar — used to loosen/tighten lug nuts. A cross wrench or a long breaker bar with the correct socket gives leverage to break tight nuts free. Socket sizes: check the lug nut size (commonly ~21 mm on many Toyota Hilux generations) — use the correct socket to avoid rounding nuts.
• Torque wrench (click‑style recommended) — calibrated tool to tighten lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specified torque. Ensures safe clamping force; do not skip this.
• Socket set with extension — helps reach lug nuts easily and fit the wheel studs.
• Wire brush or abrasive pad — cleans corrosion from wheel hub faces and wheel mounting surfaces so wheels sit flush.
• Anti‑seize compound (small amount, optional) — used sparingly on rusted studs to prevent seizure; do NOT put grease on wheel seating surfaces; avoid using on threads unless you know the correct practice for your vehicle.
• Gloves and eye protection — protect hands and eyes from dirt, sharp edges and debris.
• Tire pressure gauge — check pressures after rotation and adjust to recommended pressures.
• Chalk/marker or masking tape (optional) — mark tire positions if following a rotation pattern or if tires are directional.

• Extra/optional tools and why they might be required
• Breaker bar (if lug nuts are very tight) — provides extra leverage to break seized or overtorqued lug nuts.
• Impact wrench (electric or pneumatic, optional) — speeds removal and tightening but you still must use a torque wrench for final torque.
• Work light — improves visibility under the vehicle.
• Hub puller (rare) — only if wheel is seized to hub; prevents damaging studs by pounding.
• Replacement lug nuts or wheel studs — required if nuts are stripped or studs are damaged when removing wheels.

• Before you start — checks and prep
• Confirm tire type: look on the sidewall for a directional arrow. Directional tires must stay on the same side of the vehicle when rotating (front ↔ rear same side only). Non‑directional tires can be moved crosswise.
• Check tread depth and condition. If tread is below legal/safe limits, or if there is uneven wear, replacement may be required (see “parts replacement” below).
• Find the vehicle’s jack points and lug nut torque specification in the owner’s manual. If you can’t find the manual, many Toyota specs are listed on a placard in the driver door or glove box.
• Park vehicle on level ground, engage parking brake, place wheel chocks on wheels that will remain on the ground.

• Common rotation patterns and when to use each (directional vs non‑directional)
• Directional tires (arrow on sidewall) — rotate front-to-back on the same side only (front-left → rear-left; front-right → rear-right).
• Non‑directional tires on 2WD/RWD/AWD light trucks — typical pattern is to move rear tires to the opposite front positions and fronts to the rear on the same side (a “rearward cross” or “forward cross” depending on drivetrain). If unsure, follow the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended pattern in the manual.
• 5‑tire rotation (if you have a full‑size spare) — include the spare in the rotation; common pattern moves one wheel to spare position and rotates others accordingly. Use your manual’s recommended pattern.

• Step‑by‑step procedure (one wheel at a time or two at a time if you have two jack stands)
• Loosen lug nuts slightly while car is on the ground — use the lug wrench or breaker bar to break them free. Loosen, don’t remove yet.
• Lift vehicle at the correct jacking point with floor jack or scissor jack until wheel clears the ground.
• Place jack stand securely under the recommended support step, lower jack so vehicle rests on stands. Ensure vehicle is stable before working.
• Remove lug nuts completely, remove wheel, and set wheel flat on the ground (tread side up) or hang from a tire rack if available.
• Clean hub mating surface with wire brush to remove rust and dirt. Ensure the hub is dry and free of debris so the wheel seats properly.
• Mount the wheel in its new position per your rotation pattern. Start lug nuts by hand to avoid cross‑threading.
• Lower the vehicle so the wheel just touches ground and wheel cannot turn, or fully lower to ground before final torque depending on your method; always follow torque wrench instructions for using the wheel on the ground (recommended).
• Tighten lug nuts in a crisscross/star pattern gradually in multiple passes to seat the wheel evenly. Use the torque wrench to the manufacturer’s torque spec for final tightening.
• Repeat for each wheel being rotated.
• After all wheels are rotated and torqued, check and set tire pressures to the recommended values.
• Drive 50–100 km and re‑check lug nut torque to ensure nothing has loosened.

• How to use key tools correctly
• Floor jack — position saddle under jacking point, pump handle with steady strokes until vehicle is raised. Never place jack on soft ground; use a plank if necessary for stability.
• Jack stands — adjust height, close the locking pin, place under strong frame points. Slowly lower the vehicle onto the stands; give the car a gentle push to make sure it’s stable before getting underneath.
• Breaker bar/lug wrench — apply steady pressure; position your body so you won’t lose balance if bar slips. If too tight, use a longer breaker bar (careful not to damage studs).
• Torque wrench (click‑style) — set desired torque, tighten lug until the wrench clicks and then stop. Do not “bounce” or over‑torque; if you hear multiple clicks, stop and confirm setting. Recheck after driving a short distance.
• Wire brush — use to remove surface rust on hub and wheel mating surface; clean both hub and wheel center bore lightly so wheel sits flush.

• Common problems you may find and what to replace (and why)
• Worn or low‑tread tires — replace if tread depth below legal/safe limit or if uneven wear (center/edge/one side) indicates alignment or suspension issues. Tire replacement ensures traction and safety.
• Directional vs non‑directional mismatch — if tires are directional but were mounted wrong, remount or replace if damaged; directional tires must maintain rotation direction.
• Cracked, bulging or punctured tires — replace immediately; sidewall damage is not repairable safely in most cases.
• Bent or damaged wheels — replace or professionally repair; bent rim can leak or cause vibration.
• Stripped or rounded lug nuts — replace lug nuts (cheap) if the hex is rounded; a rounded nut cannot be tightened properly.
• Damaged wheel studs — replace studs if threads are damaged or if stud is snapped/corroded. Stud failure leads to wheel loss.
• Seized wheel to hub (wheel won’t come off) — clean hub face, use penetrating oil, and use a hub puller or striking the back of the wheel (with a block of wood) to break it free; if studs are badly corroded, replace studs and consider resurfacing rotors.
• Excessive wheel-bearing play or noise — if present when wheel is off, bearings may need replacement. Symptoms include grinding noise, looseness, or play in the hub.
• Warped brake rotors (vibration during braking) — if you notice pulsation, rotors may need machining or replacement.

• When rotation is not enough — signs you need additional service or parts
• Rapid or uneven wear after rotation — get wheel alignment and suspension check; misalignment or worn suspension parts will destroy tires quickly.
• Vibration, wobble, or noise after rotation — inspect wheels, tires, studs, and bearings. Replace worn components (bearings, studs, or wheels) as needed.
• Corroded mounting surfaces causing improper seating — clean surfaces; if damage persists, wheels or hubs may require attention.

• Frequency and record keeping
• Rotate tires regularly to extend life — typically every oil change or every 5,000–10,000 km (check your owner’s manual for Toyota/Hilux recommended interval).
• Keep a note of rotation pattern and dates so wear trends can be tracked.

• Final safety checks
• Ensure all lug nuts are torqued to spec and the vehicle is stable on the ground.
• Check tire pressures and inspect visually for any issues.
• Re‑torque after 50–100 km.

• Quick troubleshooting notes (no questions asked)
• If a lug nut won’t loosen — try penetrating oil and a breaker bar; if still stuck, use impact around the nut with care or see a shop.
• If wheel seizes to hub — use penetrating oil, wire brush, hub puller; don’t hammer studs.
• If you’re uncomfortable at any point — a tyre shop or mechanic can rotate tires quickly and check torque/alignment.

• Summary of replacement parts you may need and why
• Tires — replace for low tread, damage, or irreparable punctures.
• Lug nuts — replace if stripped, rounded, or corroded.
• Wheel studs — replace if threads damaged or broken.
• Wheel rims — replace or repair if bent/cracked.
• Wheel bearings — replace if noisy or loose.
• Brake rotors/pads — replace or resurface if warped, excessively thin, or damaged (found during wheel removal).

• Final note — always follow the vehicle owner’s manual for jack points and torque specs; if the spec isn’t available, use a professional shop for final torquing to avoid under/over‑tightening.
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