- Safety first (read before starting)
- Wear safety glasses, heavy gloves and steel-toe footwear to protect from flying rust, crushed hands and falling parts.
- Work on flat level ground; never rely on a hydraulic jack alone — always use properly rated jack stands on the vehicle manufacturer’s jacking points.
- Use wheel chocks on the opposite axle to prevent rolling.
- Coil springs store large energy. If a spring or compressor fails it can cause severe injury or death. Use the correct tool and follow the tool manufacturer’s instructions precisely.
- If you are unsure at any point or the vehicle has rusted seized fasteners, stop and get a professional: this job can become dangerous quickly.

- Tools — what they are, why they’re needed, and how to use each
- Hydraulic floor jack (2‑ton or higher)
- Purpose: lift the vehicle to remove a wheel and support suspension during work.
- How to use: position beneath the factory jacking point (refer to owner’s manual), pump handle to raise vehicle slowly until it’s high enough to place jack stands; do not get under vehicle supported only by the jack.
- Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight; pair)
- Purpose: hold the vehicle safely once lifted.
- How to use: place under solid frame point or control-arm pickup per manual; lower jack so vehicle rests securely on stands; give a push to confirm stability.
- Wheel chocks
- Purpose: prevent vehicle roll.
- How to use: place behind rear wheels (if working front) or in front of front wheels (if working rear).
- Lug wrench or breaker bar with correct socket (usually 21mm on many Hilux wheel nuts; check your model)
- Purpose: loosen and tighten wheel nuts.
- How to use: break lug nuts loose with car on ground before jacking; final torque after wheel is on and vehicle lowered.
- Socket set and ratchet (metric set including deep sockets), plus extensions
- Purpose: remove suspension bolts, shock bolts, swaybar links, strut top nuts.
- How to use: pick correct socket size, use breaker bar for stubborn bolts, ratchet for removal; use penetrating oil on rusted bolts, work slowly to avoid rounding heads.
- Torque wrench (metric, torque range covering typical suspension specs)
- Purpose: tighten bolts to manufacturer torque to ensure safety and avoid bolt failure.
- How to use: set required torque value, tighten until click; consult service manual for exact values per bolt.
- Spring compressor (specific for coil springs; choose threaded compressor with safety latches rated for automotive coil springs)
- Purpose: safely compress coil springs if they sit on a strut assembly or otherwise need compression to remove/install.
- How to use: attach hooks opposite each other on the spring coils, evenly tighten both sides a little at a time to compress the spring uniformly, never use an adjustable C-clamp type not rated for springs; inspect compressor for damage and use gloves/face shield. If compressor does not fit or spring is badly corroded, do not proceed.
- Ball joint separator / pickle fork or tie-rod separator (if needed)
- Purpose: separate ball joint or tie-rod ends from control arms when required to remove lower control arm or knuckle.
- How to use: place between joint and taper, strike with hammer (pickle fork) or use a puller to separate; avoid damaging boots if possible.
- Floor creeper / kneepads (comfort/safety)
- Purpose: easier movement and reduced strain.
- How to use: optional but helpful.
- Pry bar and large screwdriver
- Purpose: help seat springs, shift components into place, lever out stubborn components.
- How to use: use carefully to avoid bending control arms; small controlled movements.
- Hammer and rubber mallet
- Purpose: persuade seized components free without excessive damage (rubber mallet) and for tougher persuasion (steel hammer).
- How to use: tap gently and progressively; protect surfaces.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist)
- Purpose: loosen rusted bolts and studs.
- How to use: spray and let soak 10–20 minutes before attempting removal; reapply as needed.
- Anti-seize compound and thread locker (medium strength)
- Purpose: anti-seize on bolts that may corrode; thread locker where manufacturer recommends.
- How to use: apply thin layer of anti-seize to bolt threads where reassembly may be seized by rust later; use thread locker on bolts that require it per manual.
- Wire brush and rag
- Purpose: clean mating surfaces and threads for inspection and reassembly.
- How to use: remove rust and dirt before installing new parts.

- Extra tools that may be required and why
- Spring compressor (required for strut-mounted coil springs)
- Why: compresses spring safely to remove top strut nut. Without it, the spring will launch if the strut is disassembled.
- Impact wrench (optional)
- Why: speeds removal of tight bolts; not required but handy. Do not rely on impact wrench for final torque — always use torque wrench.
- Hydraulic press (rare)
- Why: sometimes needed to press out old bushings/ball joints if serviceable parts are stuck; usually a shop tool.
- Shop manual or factory service manual (highly recommended)
- Why: contains vehicle-specific diagrams, torque specs, jacking points and sequences; prevents mistakes.

- Parts you may need to replace — what, why and how to choose replacements
- Coil springs (OEM or quality aftermarket)
- Why replace: sagging ride height, cracked/broken coils, rust damage, uneven handling. Replace springs that are visibly cracked, corroded, or if vehicle sits unevenly.
- How to choose: select springs by model year, cab type, 2WD/4WD and whether vehicle has factory options (load‑rated springs). Use OEM part number or a reputable brand matched to your Hilux.
- Spring isolators / rubber pads (upper and lower)
- Why replace: isolators often degrade, causing noise and improper seating. Always fit new isolators when replacing springs.
- How to choose: match vehicle year and spring style.
- Strut top mount or bearing (if strut-type)
- Why replace: worn mounts cause noise, steering issues and can damage spring seating.
- How to choose: get mount with bearing if original had bearing; choose OEM or quality aftermarket.
- Shock absorbers / struts
- Why replace: shocks often wear with springs; if shocks are leaking or weak, replace together for proper handling.
- How to choose: select shocks matched to load rating and vehicle model.
- Bolts, nuts and washers (suspension fasteners)
- Why replace: suspension bolts are torque-to-yield or may be corroded; replacing ensures secure fastening.
- How to choose: use OEM or grade-specified replacement fasteners; follow manual for new vs. reuse.
- Control arm bushings / ball joints / swaybar links (inspect and replace if worn)
- Why: worn suspension components accelerate uneven tire wear and instability.
- How to choose: match part numbers to your Hilux; replace in pairs left/right when possible.
- Bump stops and dust boots
- Why replace: protect shocks and prevent coil-to-chassis contact.

- How to inspect parts to decide replacement
- Inspect coils for cracks, breaks and rust-through.
- Compare ride height both sides; >1–2 cm difference suggests spring sag.
- Check top mounts for looseness, torn rubber or bearing noise.
- Inspect shocks for oil leaks and excessive rebound.
- Check bushings and ball joints for play and torn rubber boots.

- General procedure overview — read entire list before starting (use vehicle manual for model-specific steps and torque specs)
- Prepare vehicle: park on level surface, chock wheels, loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly while car is on ground.
- Lift vehicle: jack at jacking point and place jack stands; confirm stability.
- Remove wheel: fully remove lug nuts and wheel.
- Support lower control arm/knuckle: place a secondary jack or support under the lower control arm or steering knuckle to control movement when components are disconnected.
- Disconnect components as required to free the spring:
- If suspension is separate spring + shock (double wishbone/common older Hilux):
- Remove shock lower bolt or unbolt shock to allow control arm to drop.
- Unbolt sway bar link if it limits arm drop.
- Slowly lower the control-arm support jack so the spring decompresses and can be removed (spring will become loose and can be taken out).
- If suspension is strut-mounted coil spring (strut+spring assembly):
- Remove strut assembly from vehicle (unbolt lower strut bolts and top strut nuts from under hood or inside engine bay).
- In a bench/vice area, use a proper spring compressor to compress the coil evenly until the spring tension is relieved from the top nut.
- Remove top nut, separate strut mount and slide out spring.
- Safety: never remove top nut until the spring is fully compressed and secured by the compressor.
- Remove spring and inspect mating surfaces and mounts; clean with wire brush and apply anti-seize where necessary.
- Install replacement spring and isolators:
- For separate-spring setup: seat the lower end properly on the lower spring perch and upper pad into its location; slowly raise the control arm with jack until spring seats fully; ensure isolators are correctly positioned.
- For strut assembly: compress the new spring evenly in the compressor, place on strut with isolators and mount, fit top mount and tighten top nut to the manufacturer’s torque while the spring is still compressed enough to remove play, then slowly decompress, making sure spring seats correctly.
- Reinstall components in reverse order: reconnect swaybar links, shock absorber, lower control arm bolts, steering knuckle, etc.
- Torque all suspension bolts to manufacturer specs using a torque wrench.
- Refit wheel, hand-tighten lug nuts, lower vehicle to ground, then tighten lug nuts to specified torque in the correct pattern.
- Test and check:
- Perform a bounce test on each corner to sense shock/spring behavior.
- Take a slow test drive to check handling, noises, steering return and ride height.
- Re-torque suspension bolts after 100–200 km of driving if manufacturer recommends.

- Important model-specific notes and cautions
- Hilux front suspension design varies by model year and market (double wishbone vs. strut setups). Method differs: confirm whether the spring is separate or mounted on a strut before disassembling.
- Torque specs are model- and bolt-specific; always use the factory manual for exact torque values. Over- or under-torquing suspension bolts is dangerous.
- If the spring shows heavy corrosion or the perch/top is seized, do not force — cutting or burning a spring loose is hazardous. Seek a shop with the correct tools.
- If you need to compress a spring, use only a rated automotive spring compressor designed for that application; do not improvise with chains, cables, or non-rated clamps.

- Quick checklist before driving away
- All bolts torqued to spec.
- New isolators/mounts seated correctly.
- No tools or rags left in the wheel well.
- Tires torqued to correct lug torque.
- Short test drive at low speed to check handling and noises.

- Final note (short)
- If you lack a proper spring compressor, or the job requires control-arm removal with seized bolts or odd fasteners, get it done at a professional shop. Replacing coil springs incorrectly is a high-risk activity.
rteeqp73

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