Below is a direct, technician-style procedure for repairing the hydraulic clutch on a Toyota Hilux (general/manual-transmission models). It covers diagnosis, tools, safety, step‑by‑step work for both external slave and concentric slave (CSC) systems, bleeding methods, how each tool is used, replacement parts typically required, and common pitfalls. Follow vehicle-specific service manual torque specs and any model-year differences — use the manual for exact bolt torques and part numbers.

Safety first
- Work on a flat, level surface. Chock rear wheels.
- Wear eye protection and chemical-resistant gloves. Have a fire extinguisher nearby.
- Support vehicle securely with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone. Use a transmission jack for the gearbox.
- Disconnect negative battery cable when working around starter/electronics.
- Brake/clutch fluid is corrosive to paint — catch and clean spills immediately. Dispose of used fluid properly.

Tools & consumables
- Metric socket set (8–22 mm), ratchet, extensions.
- Metric combination wrench set.
- Flare-nut (line) wrenches (10, 11, 12, 13 mm typical) — do not use open wrench on hydraulic fittings.
- Torque wrench (range to cover small to large fasteners).
- Screwdrivers, pliers, snap-ring pliers.
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack + support.
- Floor jack + jack stands.
- Drain pan, rags, shop towels, parts cleaner.
- Bench-bleed kit for master cylinder (small hoses + bracket) or a vise that won’t damage cylinder.
- Hydraulic/hand vacuum pump (bleeder) OR pressure bleeder OR two-person assist.
- Clear plastic tubing for bleed nipple, small clamp/clip.
- Brake/clutch fluid (DOT type specified by vehicle — DOT3 or DOT4; check reservoir cap).
- Penetrating oil, copper washers (banjo bolt crush washers) if replacing lines, new copper washers/supply banjo bolt(s).
- Replacement parts: master cylinder rebuild or new master cylinder, slave cylinder (external) or concentric slave cylinder (CSC) assembly if internal, seals/hoses, clutch alignment tool if removing transmission and replacing clutch, clutch kit if required.
- Wheel chocks, marker and masking tape for labeling connections.

Typical replacement parts you’ll need
- Master cylinder (or rebuild kit) if leaking or internal seals failed. Bench-bleed before installation.
- External slave cylinder OR concentric slave cylinder (CSC) assembly (many Hilux models use CSC located inside bellhousing). Replace CSC if leaking or piston seized.
- Hydraulic line(s) if corroded. Replace copper crush washers/banjo bolts as required.
- Brake/clutch fluid (fresh DOT type).
- If transmission removed and clutch components show wear: clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing, alignment tool, and flywheel resurfacing or replacement as required.

Diagnosis (quick)
1. Check pedal feel: soft/spongy vs hard. Soft/spongy usually indicates air or fluid loss; very soft/no pedal = likely leak or failed master/slave.
2. Inspect under vehicle and engine bay for wetness around master cylinder reservoir, hydraulic lines, slave (external) or at bellhousing for CSC leaks.
3. Check fluid level and condition in reservoir. Low fluid = leak somewhere. Dark, dirty fluid = replace and flush.

Procedure overview — choose correct path based on system
A. Repair or replace Master Cylinder (no transmission removal).
B. Replace External Slave Cylinder (no transmission removal).
C. Replace Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC) — requires transmission removal.
D. Bleed the system correctly and test.

A — Master cylinder replacement (common, simpler)
1. Prep: Park, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery. Raise front of vehicle for access if necessary.
2. Clean area around master cylinder reservoir cap — prevent contamination. Remove cap and cover with clean rag.
3. Remove brake/clutch fluid from reservoir with syringe or turkey baster into drain pan.
4. Use bench-bleed: remove master cylinder from vehicle (or bench-bleed before install). If bench-bleeding off-vehicle: secure unit in a vise (gentle!) or bench-bleed bracket, attach short hoses from the outlet ports back into reservoir, repeatedly depress piston slowly until no air bubbles appear in hoses. This is critical — do not install an un-bled master.
- How tool used: bench-bleed kit hoses route fluid/hose back into reservoir; depress piston with clamp or by hand repeated strokes.
5. If replacing on-vehicle: use flare-nut wrench to loosen hydraulic line at master banjo/union — catch fluid. Remove retaining nuts/bolts for the master cylinder at the firewall (usually 2 bolts). Pull master off studs, disconnect reservoir (if separate).
6. Install new/master cylinder: slide onto studs, tighten mounting bolts to manufacturer torque. Reconnect hydraulic line(s) with new crush washers on banjo bolts. Tighten with flare-nut wrench then torque to spec.
- Pitfall: do not cross-thread fittings; use flare-nut wrench to avoid rounding. Replace crush washers.
7. Fill reservoir with fresh DOT-specified fluid. Proceed to bleeding (section D).

B — External slave cylinder replacement (simpler)
1. Prep vehicle, chock, lift, support. Remove any splash shields blocking access.
2. Locate slave cylinder on transmission housing. Clean area.
3. Clamp a clear hose onto bleed nipple, run to catch container. Use flare-nut wrench to disconnect hydraulic line from slave cylinder (cap/plug line or open reservoir to avoid siphoning). Remove slave mounting bolts and pull slave off.
4. Install new slave: fit, secure bolts to spec, connect hydraulic line with new crush washers if banjo type. Tighten fittings.
5. Proceed to bleeding (section D).

C — Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC) replacement (requires transmission removal)
1. Prep: disconnect battery, chock, jack and support vehicle, remove driveshaft(s) (rear-wheel/4x4), disconnect shift linkage and speedometer cable if applicable, unplug reverse light switch, remove starter motor (clear bellhousing), drain gearbox oil if needed, support engine from above or with engine support bar if transmission crossmember removal alters engine support.
- How tools are used: transmission jack supports transmission weight; transmission mount bolts removed while supporting with jack. Use penetrating oil on old bolts.
2. Unbolt transmission crossmember and mounts, drive shafts/propshaft out of the way, shift linkage and any sensors disconnected.
3. Remove bellhousing bolts (one by one in sequence), slide transmission rearward on transmission jack until input shaft clears the clutch disc splines and separate transmission from engine. Note: watch for any wiring or hoses still attached.
4. With transmission off, inspect clutch assembly (disc, pressure plate). If clutch shows wear/damage, replace clutch kit now (recommended when removing transmission). Use clutch alignment tool to position new disc and pressure plate when installing.
5. Remove old CSC from inside bellhousing: typically held by bolts to gearbox or integrated into input bearing housing. Remove hydraulic line and mounting bolts, pull CSC assembly out. Clean housing bore and inspect pilot bearing.
6. Install new CSC: apply small amount of clean oil to spline if required by manual, install new seals and O-rings as required, tighten mounting bolts to spec. Reconnect hydraulic line with new crush washers if needed.
7. Reinstall transmission: align input shaft with clutch splines using alignment tool, slide transmission forward onto engine while supporting with transmission jack, reinstall bellhousing bolts, starter, mounts, crossmember, driveshafts, linkages. Torque bolts to spec. Refill gearbox oil if drained.
- Pitfall: improper alignment can damage splines or clutch; use alignment tool and be patient during mating.

D — Bleeding the clutch hydraulic system
Goal: remove all air until pedal is firm.

Options:
- Two‑person bleed (most common if no vacuum or pressure bleeder):
1. Fill reservoir with fresh fluid, keep cap loosely fitted. Person A pumps clutch pedal 6–10 times and holds pedal down. Person B opens slave bleed nipple (small wrench; use flare-nut/bleeder wrench) to let fluid/air out until flow is solid, then close nipple before Person A releases pedal. Repeat until pedal feels firm and no air bubbles in fluid exiting. Keep reservoir topped up continuously.
2. Final pump to desired pedal height, check no sponginess.

- Vacuum bleed (single-person): attach vacuum pump to slave bleed nipple, open nipple, pump until clear fluid with no bubbles. Close nipple, remove vacuum tool, top up reservoir.

- Pressure bleeder: connect pressure bleeder to reservoir, pressurize to ~1–2 bar (use bleeder gauge), open slave bleed nipple until bubbles stop, then close. Release pressure and reinstall cap.

Bleeding order (if multiple slaves): typically start from slave furthest from master and work toward nearest. On most Hilux one slave only — bleed that.

How to use tools during bleeding:
- Flare-nut wrenches on bleed nipple prevent rounding.
- Clear plastic hose: push hose snug over nipple; direct into bottle with fluid to prevent air re-entry.
- Vacuum pump: attach hose to nipple, create vacuum and open nipple to draw fluid.
- Pressure bleeder: fill, cap reservoir, connect, pressurize and open bleed nipple as needed.

Final checks and road test
1. After bleeding, tighten bleed nipple, wipe area clean, top reservoir and reinstall cap; keep clean to avoid contamination.
2. Inspect all fittings for leaks while applying steady pedal pressure (don’t hold for extended periods).
3. Lower vehicle. Reconnect battery.
4. With engine off, test pedal feel — should be firm with proper engagement point. Start engine and test clutch engagement in a safe area. Drive carefully, see if clutch grabs smoothly and no slipping, and no leak reappears. Check pedal height/engagement and rebleed if necessary.

Common pitfalls & what to avoid
- Not bench-bleeding a replacement master cylinder — air trapped inside causes endless bleeding and poor pedal.
- Using the wrong fluid (use DOT spec indicated on reservoir cap). Mixing fluids (DOT3 vs DOT4) can be OK in many systems, but follow OEM guidance. Never use mineral oil unless system requires it (some vehicles use hydraulic oil distinct from brake fluid — Hilux uses DOT brake fluid; verify).
- Rounding hydraulic fittings by using the wrong wrench — use flare-nut/line wrenches.
- Reusing old crush washers/banjo washers — always replace.
- Letting reservoir run dry during bleeding — this draws air back into system.
- Not checking for contamination (dirt or paint) entering reservoir or hoses — can ruin seals.
- Reinstalling transmission with input shaft misaligned — will jam and possibly damage center bearing or clutch. Use an alignment tool.
- Not replacing CSC when it leaks or sticks — repeated failures will damage transmission/clutch.
- Over-tightening bleed nipples and hydraulic fittings — strip threads or snap nipples off. Use proper torque to spec.

When to replace the clutch as well
- If the hydraulic failure allowed clutch slippage or the clutch has high wear, replace clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, and resurface or replace flywheel while transmission is out. It’s far cheaper to replace clutch while the gearbox is removed than to remove it again later.

Wrap-up checklist
- New/bench-bled master installed correctly? Yes/No.
- Slave (external) or CSC replaced with new crush washers and fittings? Yes/No.
- System bled until pedal firm, no bubbles? Yes/No.
- No leaks under pressure and after road test? Yes/No.
- Transmission bolts torqued to spec and alignment tool removed? Yes/No.

That’s the complete practical procedure. Follow OEM torque specs and safety steps. Replace any leaking or damaged parts (master cylinder, slave cylinder or CSC, hydraulic lines, crush washers). Bleed thoroughly using bench-bleed plus vacuum/pressure or two-person method to ensure no air remains.
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