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Toyota Chassis and Body workshop and repair manual

1) Verify system type
- Theory: Older Toyotas use a mechanical throttle cable linking the accelerator pedal to the throttle body; many modern Toyotas use electronic throttle control (ETC) with no cable. Adjust/repair steps below apply only to vehicles with a mechanical cable.
- How this fixes the fault: Ensures you’re working on the correct system; you won’t chase a non‑existent cable fault if the car is drive‑by‑wire.

2) Safety and preparation
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels, engine off and cool. Have basic tools, replacement cable (if needed), light, and gloves.
- How this fixes the fault: Prevents injury/damage during inspection and testing.

3) Visual inspection (order 1)
- Inspect entire cable length: pedal end, firewall grommet, routing along engine bay, sheath condition, kinks, frays, corrosion, mounting brackets, and attachment points at throttle body.
- Theory: A cable transmits motion; any fray, kink or binding in the sheath increases friction or can fail under load.
- How this fixes the fault: Identifies the actual mechanical cause (binding, broken strands, crushed sheath) so you can decide adjust vs replace.

4) Check pedal free play and pedal-to-throttle linkage (order 2)
- With engine off, measure free play at pedal (movement before throttle opens) and at the throttle lever. Typical free play is small (a few mm at the pedal) — consult the model spec.
- Theory: Correct free play prevents idle creep and ensures full closed position; too much slack delays throttle response.
- How this fixes the fault: Measuring shows whether adjustment is needed; correcting slack restores predictable pedal-to-throttle relationship.

5) Check return springs and throttle body travel (order 3)
- Manually depress and release pedal and move throttle lever by hand. Confirm throttle returns smoothly to closed position under spring tension and there’s no sticking point. Inspect return spring for corrosion or weakness.
- Theory: Throttle return springs must overcome cable friction so the throttle closes reliably; a weak spring or high friction leads to sticking or high idle.
- How this fixes the fault: Verifies whether the problem is cable friction or spring failure so you address the root cause.

6) Lubrication (order 4, temporary remedy)
- If the sheath and inner cable are serviceable and not frayed, apply recommended cable lubricant to the exposed inner wire and work the cable to draw lubricant through the sheath. Do not use thick greases that attract dirt.
- Theory: Proper lubrication reduces internal friction, restoring smooth motion between inner wire and sheath.
- How this fixes the fault: Lowers sticking/hesitation due to friction, improves return speed, and can restore normal action without replacement.

7) Adjustment of cable slack (order 5)
- Locate the adjuster (near throttle body or at pedal). Loosen locknut, set cable free play to manufacturer spec (small free play so throttle fully closes at rest but not binding), then tighten locknut. Re-check both pedal and throttle lever free play.
- Theory: The adjuster sets the neutral geometry so the throttle plate is fully closed at rest and fully open at full pedal travel without over‑tension.
- How this fixes the fault: Eliminates delayed response from excess slack and prevents binding/overstressing cable when too tight; restores correct idle and throttle correlation.

8) Replace cable if damaged (order 6)
- Remove retaining clips at throttle body and pedal, free cable from brackets, feed out old cable, route new cable the same path (avoid heat sources, sharp bends), secure with new clips, attach ends, and adjust slack as above.
- Theory: A frayed, corroded or internally seized cable cannot transmit motion reliably; replacement restores a new low‑friction path.
- How this fixes the fault: Removes the failed component causing sticking, breakage risk or intermittent response; proper routing prevents repeat failure.

9) Check and set throttle stop/idle (order 7)
- If applicable, ensure throttle stop screw is correctly set so throttle closes fully but idle control can maintain idle. Do not force throttle closed against a stop.
- Theory: Idle stop sets the mechanical closed position; the idle control system then fine‑tunes idle airflow.
- How this fixes the fault: Prevents mechanical interference with idle control and eliminates idle surge due to misset stop.

10) Functional test (order 8)
- With engine off, verify full pedal travel produces full throttle plate travel; with engine running, check idle stability, no sticking, smooth response through full range, and that throttle returns to idle promptly. Road test in safe area.
- Theory: Dynamic test confirms real‑world behavior under load and temperature.
- How this fixes the fault: Confirms repair restored correct operation and reveals any remaining issues (binding, misrouting, cruise interactions).

11) Final checks and prevention (order 9)
- Reinspect routing for chafe, secure mounting, and any heat shielding. Replace grommets/clips as needed. Periodically inspect and lubricate per service interval.
- Theory: Proper routing and retention reduce mechanical wear and exposure to heat/chafing.
- How this fixes the fault: Prevents recurrence by eliminating the typical causes of cable deterioration.

Summary of how repairs map to symptoms
- Visual repair/replacement -> fixes fraying/broken cable that causes intermittent or failed throttle.
- Lubrication -> fixes sticking/hesitation from friction.
- Adjustment -> fixes delayed response and incorrect idle caused by excess slack or overtightening.
- Correct routing/secure mounting -> prevents chafing, heat damage and binding that lead to future faults.
- Return spring and throttle stop checks -> ensure safe idle behavior and eliminate high idle or non‑return conditions.

End.
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