Safety first (brief): work on a car on level ground with wheel chocks, a rated jack and jack stands, safety glasses and gloves. Use a torque wrench and a shop manual for vehicle-specific torque and disassembly notes. Replace the axle nut and any damaged fasteners; if you’re unsure about any step, stop and consult a technician.

What a CV joint/axle does (theory)
- Purpose: the half‑shaft (axle) transmits engine/transmission torque to the wheel while allowing for suspension travel and steering angle changes.
- CV joints: inner (tripod or plunge) handles in/out movement as suspension moves; outer (Rzeppa type usually) handles large steering angles. Bearings inside ride on grooves and are packed with grease and sealed by a boot.
- Failure modes: boot tears → grease loss + contamination → bearing wear → clicking on turns, vibration, torn boot grease on hub. Or bearing wear from fatigue causes play, noise, vibration.
- How replacement fixes it: replacing the joint or the entire axle restores proper bearing surfaces, grease lubrication and sealing. That eliminates play and irregular contact that caused noise/vibration and stops further contamination of the joint and transmission seal.

Ordered procedure with theory and why each step fixes the fault
1) Diagnose and confirm
- Symptoms: clicking on sharp turns = outer CV; vibration under load = inner or imbalance; grease on inside rim = torn boot.
- Theory: identify which component failed so you replace the correct joint/axle and stop recurring failure.

2) Gather parts and tools
- Parts: replacement CV axle or rebuild kit (joint, boot, grease, clamps), new axle nut, any damaged fasteners.
- Tools: jack/stands, breaker bar, socket for axle nut, pry bar, hammer and drift, ball joint separator/pickle fork or puller, torque wrench, circlip/pulling tools, pliers for clamps.
- Theory: using correct replacement parts and tools avoids damaging splines, hub, or transmission.

3) Prepare vehicle
- Park, chock, loosen axle nut slightly with wheel on ground (prevents wheel spin).
- Lift and support on jack stands, remove wheel.
- Theory: axle nut is torqued high; loosening on ground avoids straining suspension.

4) Remove components to free the axle
- Remove axle nut fully.
- Disconnect any components that prevent hub movement: lower ball joint, tie rod end, sway link or hub fasteners as required. In some cars you may remove hub bearing bolts.
- Theory: you need enough lateral movement to pull the axle out of the hub without forcing the transmission seal or damaging the strut/ball joint. Separating these allows the hub/knuckle to move freely.

5) Separate outer CV from hub
- Push or tap the axle out of the hub splines; sometimes backing out the hub assembly or pressing is required. Support hub/knuckle so you don’t hang it by brake lines.
- Theory: removing the outer end frees the shaft from the wheel end. Avoid hammering the shaft itself or damaging the splines.

6) Detach inner CV from transmission/transaxle
- Pry the inner joint out of the transmission input or differential carefully; it usually has a snap ring or circlip that must be disengaged. Use a pry bar where specified, shield seals.
- Theory: the inner engages with a circlip; once released the axle slides out. Protect the transmission seal and don’t lever on the gearbox housing.

7) Remove axle and inspect
- Pull full axle assembly out. Inspect hub, bearing, transmission seal and knuckle for damage; check brake components and ABS ring.
- Theory: if the hub bearing is worn, a new axle won’t fix noise/vibration—replace bearings if needed.

8) Prepare replacement axle/joint
- If installing a complete axle, verify length and splines match. If rebuilding a joint, pack with manufacturer grease and install new boot and clamps per spec.
- Theory: proper grease quantity and correct boot sealing prevent future failure. Rebuilds are acceptable if done correctly; full-axle replacement is faster and more reliable for many cars.

9) Install inner end into transmission
- Slide inner splines in until the circlip snaps into place; you should feel/see it seat. Ensure the shaft is fully seated and that the transmission seal is intact.
- Theory: the circlip secures axial position so the axle cannot pull out under torque. Full seating ensures correct engagement and prevents seal damage.

10) Install outer end into hub
- Line up splines, slide axle through hub, and thread axle nut on by hand. Reattach any hub or knuckle fasteners removed earlier.
- Theory: correct spline engagement and axial seating eliminate play that caused vibration or noise.

11) Reassemble suspension components
- Reconnect ball joints, tie rod ends, sway links and torque to spec. Replace cotter pins if applicable.
- Theory: restoring correct suspension geometry and securing components maintains alignment and load paths—important to avoid uneven wear or instability.

12) Torque axle nut and fasteners to spec
- Tighten axle nut to vehicle-specified torque (use service manual). Some cars require a final torque after vehicle load (torque plus lug nut torque procedure); follow spec.
- Theory: under- or over-torquing the axle nut can allow movement (vibration) or damage bearing/hub. Proper torque preloads bearings and secures the axle.

13) Reinstall wheel, lower and final torques
- Torque lug nuts to spec with wheel on ground.
- Theory: correct wheel torque prevents warping, runout, and ensures proper clamping.

14) Test and verify
- Start with static checks: spin wheel by hand to check for binding or noise. Road test with turns and acceleration to confirm the clicking/vibration is gone.
- Check for leaks at the transmission seal and verify no grease flung onto brakes.
- Theory: a good repair removes the worn joint/broken seal—so clicking on turns and grease contamination should be resolved. If symptoms persist, check hub bearing, engine/transmission mounts, and steering/suspension components.

Additional theory/details that matter
- Boots and grease: the boot’s job is to keep grease in and contamination out. A tiny tear eventually leads to abrasive wear of the mating surfaces and bearing elements; replacing the boot alone may be okay early, but once bearings are scored, replacement of the joint or full axle is required.
- Inner vs outer failure signs: clicking on sharp turns = outer; vibration under acceleration or speed-sensitive vibration = inner or imbalance. Inner joints that wear produce axial play which affects driveability.
- Why replace the whole axle often: modern axles are pre-assembled and balanced; replacing the whole shaft is quicker and avoids fitting errors, and prevents transmission seal damage from rusty or rough splines.
- Sealing and clamps: use OEM-style clamps or crimp clamps where required. Worm-gear clamps are less preferred for long-term reliability on some designs.
- Alignment: if you disturbed control-arm positions or replaced suspension bushings, get a wheel alignment.

How the repair fixes the fault (summary)
- Removes worn bearings and replaces the sealing boot and grease, eliminating play and contaminated surfaces that caused clicking and vibration. Proper seating, new clamps, and correct torque restore geometry and load transfer so the axle transmits torque smoothly without noise or imbalance.

End.
rteeqp73

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