Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Full metric hand tool set (sockets, ratchets, extensions, wrenches, allen/torx as required).
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm and 200–1000 Nm ranges or appropriate sizes).
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (0.01 mm resolution).
- Micrometer (0–25 mm and 25–50 mm) and vernier caliper.
- Hydraulic/bench press (or bearing/seal driver set).
- Bearing puller / slide hammer.
- Snap‑ring pliers (internal & external).
- Gear and bearing race drivers / drift set.
- Soft‑face hammer and steel hammer.
- Impact wrench (careful use).
- Seal installers / O‑ring picks.
- Feeler gauges and thickness (shims) set.
- Plastigage (optional) for checking bearing clearance/preload.
- Clean solvent, rags, lint‑free wipes, and assembly lube.
- Clean containers for small parts, labels & marker.
- New bearings, seals, shims, circlips, gaskets, bolts (see replacement parts).
- Hydraulic oil / gearbox oil to OEM spec and quantity, filter if applicable.
- Safety: shop rags, nitrile gloves, eye protection, hearing protection, jack stands or lift, chain/strap and engine hoist or lift for heavy housings.
- Service manual (OEM spec sheet for torque values, shim thickness ranges, backlash and preload specs).

Required replacement parts (typical)
- Full gear set or any worn pinion/gear sets (match part numbers).
- Bearings (all roller/tapered bearings in the assembly).
- Bearing races if damaged.
- Seals / shaft seals / O‑rings.
- Thrust washers, shims, circlips.
- Fasteners (high‑strength bolts, dowel pins if distorted).
- Gasket material or full gasket kit.
- Oil and filter.

Safety & preparatory precautions
- Work on fully supported machine: park on level surface, chock wheels, shut engine off, disconnect battery, relieve hydraulic pressure per manual.
- Isolate hydraulic lines and cap to prevent contamination; drain hydraulic/gear oil into proper catch.
- Use correct lifting points and rated hoist or lift for heavy housings. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection, gloves; keep hands clear of pinch points.
- Work in a clean, well lit area; contamination kills bearings & gears.

Step‑by‑step overhaul procedure
Note: This is a general, professional procedure. Follow the Toyota OEM service manual for model‑specific removal points, torque specs, and tolerances before beginning.

1) Preparation & documentation
- Obtain the correct service manual and parts list for the machine model (4SDK3 / 4SDK4 / 4SDK5 / 4SDK6 / 4SDK8 / 4SDK10).
- Photograph and tag all connections, linkages, and orientation of parts before removal.
- Clean exterior area of housing to minimize contamination during disassembly.

2) Remove the unit from machine (if necessary)
- Drain oil from the final drive/gearbox into a clean container; inspect oil for metal flakes (note condition).
- Disconnect drive shafts, hydraulic motors, lines, linkage, sensors and electrical connectors; tag hoses.
- Support and remove the final drive/gear housing assembly using hoist and recommended lifting points.
- Place assembly on clean workbench.

3) External disassembly
- Remove covers, guards, and bolts; keep fasteners labeled and in order.
- Remove axle shafts / output shafts or hydraulic motor assemblies depending on architecture.
- Note orientation and location of shim packs and bearing caps.

4) Internal gear set removal
- Remove snap rings and retaining plates carefully.
- Use bearing puller or press to remove bearings from shafts and housings.
- Extract pinion shaft/pinion and ring gear (or planetary components) slowly; take note of gear orientation and spacer/shim locations.
- Keep all parts in sequence; photograph or lay out on clean surface.

5) Cleaning & initial inspection
- Clean all components with solvent and lint‑free wipes.
- Inspect gears for pitting, scuffing, cracked teeth, scoring or heat coloration. Replace any gear with visible damage.
- Inspect all bearings for brinelling, flat spots, looseness, or heavy corrosion — replace all bearings as a set.
- Check shafts for wear, scoring, runout or bent condition. Measure critical diameters with micrometer and compare to service limits.
- Check housing bores and bearing races for wear. Replace pressed‑in races if damaged.

6) Measure and record tolerances
- Measure bearing journal diameters and bearing bores. Record measurements.
- Clean and check gear tooth contact pattern if gear set is serviceable.
- Check gear backlash: set temporary assembly (without final preload) and measure backlash with dial indicator — record.

7) Replace parts & prepare for reassembly
- Press in new bearing races/seals into housing using proper drivers. Use a press, striking only on race outer ring when pressing into bore.
- Heat bearing if necessary for interference fit (use heat blanket or oil bath to ~80–100°C as per bearing spec), never flame.
- Clean new parts and apply assembly lube to bearings and gear teeth.
- Replace all seals and O‑rings.

8) Reassemble gear set (initial)
- Reinstall pinion/shaft and gear components in the same order as removed.
- Install new shims/thrust washers as required to get approximate preload/backlash in range per manual.
- Install circlips and retainers hand‑tight to hold parts.

9) Set bearing preload & backlash (critical)
- Use dial indicator to measure gear backlash between ring and pinion (or between planets and ring) — rotate assembly and measure minimum/maximum; record.
- Adjust shim packs or spacer thickness to achieve specified backlash range from service manual.
- For tapered roller bearings: set preload using the specified method — typically by installing shims and torquing the retaining nut to spec while rotating the gear, or measuring torque to rotate (turning torque) and comparing to specification. Use plastigage or torque vs rotation as directed by OEM.
- Confirm endplay of shafts within spec. If preload is too light or heavy, adjust shims accordingly.
- Recheck backlash after preload is set — these interact; iterate until both are within spec.

How the tools are used for setting:
- Dial indicator/magnetic base: mounted on housing, tip against gear tooth to measure backlash. Rotate gear slowly and read change.
- Micrometer/vernier: measure shaft and gear thickness & shim thickness to calculate required shim change.
- Thickness gauges/shims: insert to change distance between bearings and control backlash/preload.
- Torque wrench: tighten bearing nuts and cover bolts to final torque values; used with torque angle if specified.
- Press & bearing driver: install bearings and races squarely; drive only on the appropriate race to avoid damage.
- Plastic gauge (optional): place on race, assemble and torque to check clearance; measure crushed width and compare to spec.

10) Final assembly
- Replace gaskets and seals on covers; install covers and torque fasteners to spec.
- Reinstall external components (axles, drive motors) and reconnect hydraulic lines using new washers/bolts where needed.
- Refill with correct grade oil to specified level and bleed any hydraulic circuits per manual.
- Torque external fasteners to spec.

11) Functional checks & break‑in
- Before full load: run machine at idle and check for leaks, abnormal noises, vibration.
- Cycle movement controls slowly, check proper engagement and smooth operation.
- After initial run, recheck torque on accessible fasteners and oil level when warm.
- Follow OEM break‑in procedure for new bearings/gears (gradual load, intervals for oil checks).

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Skipping the service manual: never guess backlash, preload, or torque values — always use OEM specs.
- Reusing bearings/seals: don’t reuse bearings or shaft seals — they are inexpensive relative to failure cost.
- Contamination: dirt or metal chips in gearcase will destroy bearings. Work clean, cap lines, use lint‑free rags.
- Improper pressing: pressing on wrong race or using uneven force damages bearings. Use proper drivers and press perpendicularly.
- Over/under preload: incorrect bearing preload shortens life; use correct method (torque‑to‑turn, shim thickness, or specified rotational torque).
- Wrong shim selection sequence: change one shim at a time and recheck backlash — big jumps create repeated rework.
- Tightening sequence: inconsistent torque on cover or bearing caps can distort housing and misalign gears — follow sequence and torque values.
- Not replacing dowel pins or stretch bolts: if bolts show yielding or dowels are worn, replace to maintain alignment.
- Ignoring thermal effects: some shims/press fits change with temperature — set clearances with oil temperature per manual if required.

Signs you must replace the gear set (not just bearings/seals)
- Deep tooth pitting, cracked teeth, severe scoring, or heat‑discolored teeth.
- Excessive runout not correctable by shims or bearings.
- Matching ring/pinion tooth pattern is heavily worn/incorrect contact despite correct settings.

Final notes
- Always record final settings (backlash, preload measurement, shim thicknesses, torque values) for future reference.
- If you lack OEM torque/preload/backlash specifications, obtain them before proceeding. Incorrect settings will result in catastrophic failure.
- Dispose of used oil and contaminated parts per regulations.

Follow OEM procedures and torque/backlash/preload specs exactly. End.
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