Tools & supplies
- Socket set (metric), deep and shallow sockets (8–32 mm range).
- Ratchet, breaker bar, 3/8" + 1/2" drive extenders.
- Impact wrench (air or electric) — optional but speeds removal.
- Torque wrench (capable of 10–200 Nm / 8–150 ft·lb).
- Box/open wrenches to match socket sizes.
- Combination pliers, snap-ring pliers if applicable.
- Ball-peen hammer, drift/punch set.
- Pry bar and rubber mallet.
- Floor jack or hydraulic shop jack + heavy-duty jack stands or cribbing blocks rated for machine.
- Wheel chocks.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar).
- Clean rags, safety cleaner/degreaser.
- Replacement shock absorbers (OEM part for your exact Toyota 4SDK model) and new mounting bushings/sleeves/bolts as required.
- Anti-seize or medium-strength thread locker (per OEM recommendation).
- Personal protective equipment: gloves, eye protection, hearing protection.

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
- Park on firm level ground, engage parking brake, lower attachment to ground. Chock wheels.
- Follow lockout/tagout: isolate battery and electrical system; relieve hydraulic pressure per OEM service manual before working near hydraulic components.
- Always support the lift arms / bucket securely with jack stands or manufacturer-specified support — never rely on hydraulic pressure to hold the load.
- Use rated supports; never crawl under unsupported attachment.
- Wear PPE. Ensure bystanders are clear.
- If bolts are seized, use controlled heat only if safe and recommended; avoid open flame near hydraulics/fuel.

Replacement parts required
- Shock absorber(s): order exact OEM shocks for your Toyota 4SDK3/4/5/6/8/10 model. The shocks are model-specific — confirm part numbers with VIN or serial.
- New mounting bushings and sleeves (rubber urethane bushings and metal sleeves are often pressed into the shock ends) — replace worn bushings rather than reusing.
- New mounting bolts/nuts/washers if original hardware is stretched, corroded, or torque-to-yield.
- Thread locker or anti-seize as per OEM spec.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Park machine on level surface, lower bucket/attachment to the ground, turn off engine, remove key.
- Chock wheels, set parking brake. Disconnect battery negative to prevent accidental starts.
- Release any residual hydraulic pressure per OEM procedure (cycle controls with engine off if instructed by manual).
- Identify shock location(s): front/rear or boom/axle mounted — note orientation and any brackets.

2) Support the load
- Using a floor jack or rated jack, support the chassis or lift arm so that the shock is unloaded (extended to slightly compressed depending on design). If shocks are attached across articulating components, support the component they connect to so no load is on the shock.
- Place jack stands or cribbing under the supported structure. NEVER rely on jack alone.

3) Access & prep
- Remove any guards, splash shields, or components blocking shock access.
- Clean mounting area with degreaser; apply penetrating oil to mounting bolts and allow soak time (10–15 minutes for stubborn corrosion).

4) Remove mounting hardware
- Identify upper and lower mounting bolts. Use wrench/socket or impact to break loose bolts. Use breaker bar for seized bolts.
- Support the shock with a hand or jack as you remove the second bolt so it doesn’t drop suddenly. If shock is under compression, do not let it pop out — control movement with jack.
- If bushings are pressed or have sleeves, use a punch/drift to remove sleeves from mounts after bolts removed. Keep track of spacers and washers and note their order.

How the tools are used:
- Penetrating oil loosens rusted threads.
- Breaker bar gives extra leverage to break torque on seized bolts.
- Impact wrench saves time but be cautious with corroded hardware — impacts can snap bolts.
- Punch/drift and hammer drive out sleeves or stubborn bolts. Use punch centered on sleeve.
- Jack supports the shock/arm to control movement and align holes on installation.
- Torque wrench used on reassembly to achieve correct torque on mounting bolts.

5) Remove old shock
- Once both mounts are unbolted and bushings/sleeves removed, remove the shock assembly. Inspect bracket mounts for deformation, cracked welds or elongated holes.

6) Prepare new shock & mounts
- Compare new shock to old one for length, mounting pattern, and bushing size. Install new bushings and sleeves into shock ends if shipped separately. Use light lubricant or as OEM instructs; do not pre-load rubber bushings excessively.
- If using OEM replacement bolts/nuts, fit spacers/washers in same order as removed.

7) Install new shock
- Position shock into place. Use jack to compress/align if necessary. Insert mounting bolts finger-tight to hold shock.
- Ensure orientation matches original (note direction of travel, reservoir position, label orientation if specified). Do not install shock upside down if manufacturer warns against it.
- Tighten nuts/bolts progressively. Torque to OEM specification. If OEM torque unavailable, torque bolts to a reasonable value for size (e.g., M10 ≈ 40–50 Nm, M12 ≈ 60–80 Nm, M14 ≈ 90–110 Nm) — but confirm with service manual. Use thread locker if specified.

8) Final checks & reassembly
- Remove supports slowly so shock takes the load; observe for binding, misalignment, or unusual noises.
- Re-torque bolts after first cycle of movement (after lowering and raising the arms once or after 50–100 hours as specified by OEM).
- Reinstall any guards or shields removed. Reconnect battery negative.
- Test machine slowly: cycle lift arms/bucket through full travel, listen for clunks or binding, check for leaks (if shock is oil-filled with external fittings or reservoirs). Road-test or work-test under light load, then re-inspect hardware.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting the arm/attachment: can cause sudden collapse and injury. Always support with rated stands.
- Reusing worn bushings or sleeves: leads to premature wear and noise. Replace bushings and sleeves with the shock.
- Incorrect shock orientation: can change damping behavior or cause early failure — match old shock orientation exactly.
- Over-tightening or under-tightening bolts: can crush bushings or allow movement. Use torque wrench and OEM specs.
- Not replacing corroded or stretched fasteners: cheap fix that fails quickly. Replace as needed.
- Allowing hydraulic pressure to remain: components can move unexpectedly. Follow pressure relief steps.
- Forcibly prying the shock into place without aligning holes — leads to bushing damage. Use jack to align and insert bolts straight.

Special notes for Toyota 4SDK series
- These machines may use different shock part numbers across 4SDK3–10. Always confirm correct shock (length, mount diameter, and stroke) with the machine serial number and OEM parts catalog.
- Some models use mono-tube or gas-charged shocks with specific orientation (reservoir up/down). Install per manufacturer instruction.

Estimated time
- Single shock: 30–90 minutes depending on corrosion and access. Multiple shocks or extensive corrosion: allow a full day.

Dispose of old shocks according to local regulations. If you encounter seized studs, cracked welds, or hydraulic issues, stop and refer to a qualified service center or OEM service manual.
rteeqp73

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Short answer up front: pushrods transfer camshaft motion up to the rocker arms to open and close the valves. Replacing or inspecting them is a common repair when you hear ticking, have misfires/low compression, or see physical damage. Below is a beginner-friendly, step-by-step explanation of every component involved, why problems happen, how the system works, what to check, and how to remove/inspect/replace pushrods and set valve lash. Read the safety notes and the “consult manual” reminders — torque and clearance specs vary by engine variant and the official Toyota service manual is required for exact numbers.

1) Important safety and prep
- Work on a cool engine. Hot diesel heads, springs and oil = burn risk.
- Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
- Clean the area around the valve cover so debris doesn’t fall into the head when you open it.
- Have drip pans, rags, solvent, and a magnetic parts tray.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- Get the factory service manual (FSM) for your exact 4SDK3–4SDK10 engine for torque and clearance specs. I’ll give methods and example ranges, but use the FSM for final numbers.

2) The big-picture theory — how it all works (analogy + function)
- Analogy: Think of the camshaft as a rotating cam that “pushes” on lifters (tappets), which push thin rods (pushrods) up into a seesaw (rocker arm). The far side of the seesaw pushes down on the valve stem to open the valve; the valve spring closes it again when the cam lobe moves off the lifter.
- Purpose: Convert the rotating camshaft’s profile into controlled linear motion to open intake and exhaust valves at the right time and lift.
- Why repair is needed: Pushrods can bend, wear at their ends, or get pitted/mushroomed. Worn pushrods cause improper valve lift and timing, noisy valve train (tapping), loss of compression, rough idle, smoke and power loss. Oil starvation or worn cam lobes/lifters often cause pushrod problems.

3) Components you will see and what each does (detailed)
- Valve cover: removable cover that seals the top of the head; keeps oil in and dirt out.
- Rocker arms (individual or a rocker shaft assembly): pivot levers that transfer pushrod motion to the valve stem.
- Rocker studs/bolts and nuts: fasten the rocker to the head and allow adjustment of valve lash. Nuts are what you loosen/tighten to adjust.
- Pushrods: steel rods, usually hollow or solid, with formed ends. One end seats in the lifter/tappet and the other in the rocker cup. They transmit motion.
- Lifter (tappet): sits in the block/head over the cam lobe. The cam lobe pushes the lifter; the lifter pushes the pushrod. Lifters may be solid or hydraulic (diesels commonly use solid adjustable lifters).
- Camshaft (in the block for OHV engines): lobes create the lift pattern. If lobes are worn, they damage lifters/pushrods.
- Valves (intake/exhaust), valve springs, retainers, keepers: open/close the combustion ports.
- Pushrod seats/cups: small cups in the rocker that contact pushrod ends.
- Head, head gasket: structure for the combustion chamber and valve seats.

4) Symptoms that point to pushrod/valvetrain problems
- Loud ticking/tapping from valve cover area.
- Misfire or lack of power, rough idle.
- Low compression on a cylinder (valve not seating fully).
- Excessive oil consumption or smoke if valves not sealing.
- Visible bent pushrod when you open valve cover.
- Metal shavings in oil or in filter (can indicate cam/lifter/pushrod wear).

5) Tools and parts you’ll need
- Basic wrench and socket set (including deep sockets), extensions.
- Torque wrench (essential for final assembly).
- Feeler gauges for measuring valve clearance.
- Screwdrivers, pliers, magnet pickup.
- Clean rags, brake cleaner or parts solvent.
- Replacement pushrods (match OEM length/shape) and any gaskets (valve cover gasket).
- New rocker nuts/bolts if P/N recommends or if threads damaged.
- Dial indicator or straightedge (optional) for checking pushrod straightness.
- A set of shop paper or masking tape to label pushrods/rockers and a grease pencil.

6) Preparatory checks before removal
- Have replacement pushrods that match OEM length and diameter. Do not mix lengths or use different diameter rods.
- Check oil pressure and oil level — low oil or dirty oil is a common root cause; fix that too.
- Label the pushrods/rocker positions if you’re doing more than one cylinder: pushrods must go back in same hole unless replacing all.

7) Procedure — step-by-step (beginner-friendly)
A. Remove valve cover
- Remove any intake/exhaust pipework or hoses blocking access.
- Remove bolts holding the valve cover and lift it off. Pry carefully, don’t gouge the sealing surfaces. Remove the old gasket or scrape gently.

B. Inspect and document
- Photograph or mark each rocker/pushrod location so you can reassemble in the same spots (important if you’re not replacing every pushrod).
- Note which cylinder you start on. Work methodically.

C. Position engine for safe removal
- Rotate the crank by hand to bring the first cylinder you’ll work on to TDC compression stroke (both valves fully closed). Reason: cam lobe should be on the base circle so lifter is free and pushrod is unloaded — reduces stress while removing components.
- Or, if you remove the rocker assembly as a whole, ensure cam lobes are not under a loaded rocker when you remove bolts.

D. Remove rocker arms / rocker assembly
- Loosen the rocker nuts/bolts progressively (a little on each in sequence) to avoid warping a rocker shaft or stressing components. Remove them and set rockers aside.
- Keep rocker cups/shafts in order and lay them out labeled.

E. Remove pushrods
- Lift pushrods straight up. Keep them in the same order and orientation — they can be slightly bent and orientation matters.
- If a pushrod won’t come out, check that the lifter isn’t engaged with a cam lobe. Rotate the engine a little to put that lifter on the base circle.

F. Inspect pushrods
- Visual: check both ends for mushrooming, wear, pitting, flattening, or cupping. Check the shaft for scoring and surface pitting. If any defect is present, replace the pushrod.
- Straightness: roll each pushrod on a flat surface (glass or very flat ground plate). A good pushrod will not rock; a bent one will show a gap. You can also use V‑blocks and a dial indicator for precise measurement.
- Measure length if suspicious. Replace if out of spec (FSM).

G. Inspect lifters, cam lobes, rocker cups
- Lifters should be smooth, not collapsed or pitted. Cam lobes should have clean faces; if lobes are worn (flat spots or grooves), you need cam/lifter repair, not just pushrods.
- Rocker cup or socket wear will also affect operation. Replace worn rockers.

H. Clean and prepare for reassembly
- Clean pushrod holes, oil passages around lifters, rocker bolt holes, and the head sealing surfaces. Make sure oil passages are clear.
- Replace the valve cover gasket.

I. Reinstall pushrods
- Place cleaned or new pushrods back into their exact original location and orientation. If you replaced some, it’s safest to replace the matched set for that cylinder bank.
- Make sure pushrods seat properly into the lifter cup (you can feel a little “seat”).

J. Reinstall rockers and adjust valve lash
- Reinstall rocker arms/assembly finger-tight, then torque to spec in the proper sequence per FSM.
- Valve clearance method (typical approach for solid lifter diesel engines):
1. Bring the cylinder to TDC compression (both valves closed; cam lobe on base circle).
2. With a feeler gauge, insert the specified thickness between the valve stem and the rocker arm or the clearance point.
3. Loosen the lock nut, turn the adjustment screw until you feel the prescribed drag on the feeler gauge (or reach specified dimension). Hold adjustment screw, tighten lock nut, recheck clearance.
4. Repeat for intake and exhaust valves in that cylinder.
5. Rotate crank 120° or to next cylinder TDC and repeat for all cylinders in the firing order.
- Alternate adjustment method (when specified in FSM): tighten nut until rocker makes contact then back off to specified turns. Use the method the manual prescribes.
- Example clearances some diesel OHV engines use (EXAMPLES ONLY): intake 0.10–0.20 mm (0.004–0.008 in), exhaust 0.20–0.30 mm (0.008–0.012 in). These are examples — consult FSM.

K. Final assembly
- Double-check every nut and bolt torqued to spec (rocker stud nuts, valve cover bolts).
- Rotate engine by hand two full revolutions and recheck valve clearances — they can shift after rotation.
- Reinstall valve cover with new gasket and torque to spec.
- Reconnect battery, start engine and listen. Expect a short break-in noise if new parts are fitted as oil redistributes. No loud ticking should remain.

8) What can go wrong and how to recognize it (diagnosis)
- Bent pushrod: visible bend; causes cylinder misfire/valve not opening properly.
- Mushroomed ends: pushrod ends spread and no longer seat correctly; causes noisy valve train and poor contact.
- Worn cam lobes: shiny flattened areas; if present, replacing pushrods won’t fix — cam and lifters may need replacement.
- Collapsed or damaged lifters: will cause excessive lash and noise.
- Blocked oil passages: poor lubrication causes accelerated wear. Check oil passages and pressure.
- Wrong reassembly order or swapped pushrods: can cause mismatched contact, accelerated wear, or valve damage.
- Over-tightened or under-tightened rocker nuts: can break studs or lead to incorrect lash, valve damage, or a seized pushrod.
- Incorrect clearance: too tight = valves can be held open (overheating, burned valves); too loose = noisy, reduced performance.
- Broken or loose rocker shaft/bolts: can pump oil out and wreck rockers and pushrods.

9) Preventive tips and best practices
- Use only OEM or high-quality matched pushrods.
- Replace pushrods in matched sets if any are worn — mixing old and new can cause uneven wear.
- Change oil and filter regularly; use correct oil viscosity to ensure proper lifter and cam lubrication.
- If you find cam lobe or lifter damage, don’t ignore it — that damage will destroy new pushrods quickly.
- Always recheck valve clearances after a few hours of run time following the repair.
- Keep the engine clean while working; a small stone or grit in the head will cause big problems.

10) When to get professional help
- If you find camshaft lobe wear, lifter collapse, or excessive metal in oil — this usually requires disassembly beyond the valve train (camshaft replacement, head removal) and specialized machining.
- If you don’t have access to the FSM for exact specs or lack a torque wrench.
- If the engine continues to run poorly after pushrod/valve adjustments.

11) Quick troubleshooting checklist (starter)
- Tick noise → remove cover, inspect pushrods/rockers.
- Misfire on one cylinder → check that cylinder’s pushrod, rocker, and valve clearance; do a compression check.
- Grinding or metal in oil → stop engine, inspect cam/lifters/pushrods.

Final note: The physical steps are straightforward: remove valve cover, remove rockers, lift pushrods, inspect/measure/replace, reinstall in original order, set valve lash, torque everything to spec, and recheck. The critical safety and correctness items are cleanliness, keeping parts in order, proper torque, correct valve clearances, and following the Toyota service manual for exact numerical specs.
rteeqp73