Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: metric socket/ratchet set (6–32 mm), combination wrenches, breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (appropriate range for wheel/ caliper bolts).
- Jack or shop lift and heavy-duty axle/frame stands (or manufacturer lift).
- Wheel chocks.
- Flat screwdriver, small pry bar.
- Caliper piston tool or large C‑clamp (and a pad spreader adapter if needed).
- Brake cleaner aerosol, wire brush, clean rags.
- Brake lubricant (high‑temp synthetic pad grease), anti‑seize.
- Brake fluid (specified type) and a bleed kit or vacuum pump.
- New brake pads (specific to your Toyota skid‑steer model), new pad hardware/shims/retaining clips as required.
- Disposable gloves, safety glasses.
- Container for used brake fluid, shop towels, torque chart or service manual.

Safety precautions (must do before starting)
- Park on level surface, lower boom to ground, set parking brake. Block tires front and rear.
- Shut off engine and remove key; disconnect negative battery terminal if machine electrical systems are being worked on.
- Release any stored hydraulic pressure per manufacturer procedure (lower attachments, turn off system).
- Use proper supports (jack stands or lift). Never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep hands clear of pinch points.
- If brakes are oil‑immersed (wet brakes in final drive), do not open housings without service manual — these require special procedure.

Quick note on brake type
- Many skid‑steers use external caliper/disc brakes; others use wet multi‑plate brakes inside the final drive. The steps below apply to an external caliper/disc style. If your machine has wet brakes, refer to the service manual or dealer — replacement is a different procedure (final drive removal, friction pack replacement, drain/refill oil, new seals).

Step‑by‑step — external caliper / disc brake pad replacement

1) Prepare machine
- Chock rear wheels, lower boom, shut down and remove key, and isolate hydraulics if required.
- Lift the machine safely on a lift or use a jack and support with rated stands under the frame so the wheel/hub is clear.

2) Remove wheel / hub access
- Remove wheel lug nuts and wheel to expose caliper/rotor. Keep lug nuts in safe place.

3) Inspect before disassembly
- Inspect rotor/driver surface for deep grooves, scoring, heat cracking. If rotor thickness is below minimum or damaged, plan rotor replacement or machining.
- Inspect caliper boot and hose for leaks and damage. If caliper is leaking, replace or rebuild caliper.

4) Remove caliper
- Locate caliper mounting bolts (guide pins or sliding bolts). Use correct socket/wrench and break them loose.
- Remove mounting bolts and slide caliper off rotor. Support caliper with heavy wire or hanger; do NOT let it hang by the brake hose — that can damage the hose.

5) Remove old pads and hardware
- Pull out the old pads, retaining clips, shims. Note how shims and anti‑rattle clips are positioned (take photos if needed).
- Remove pad retainers or pins if present (some systems use spring clips or pins). Replace any corroded hardware.

6) Clean and inspect caliper components
- Use wire brush and brake cleaner to clean caliper bracket, slider pins, and mounting surfaces. Inspect guide pins for smooth travel; replace if pitted or seized.
- Check caliper piston boot for damage. If damaged, rebuild caliper or replace seals.

7) Retract piston
- Retract the caliper piston(s) using a caliper piston tool or C‑clamp with an old pad as a spreader plate. Turn screw-type piston tool until piston is fully retracted flush with bore. For multi‑piston calipers or internal parking brake pistons, use the appropriate tool to rotate/retract if required.
- If piston is stuck, open the bleed nipple slightly and push fluid back into reservoir while compressing piston (remove only small amounts, then top up fluid later). Prevent brake fluid overflow; have towels ready.

8) Install new pads & hardware
- Fit new shims/anti‑rattle clips and position new pads into the bracket. Apply a thin smear of high‑temp brake grease to pad backing contact points and on sliding surfaces only — DO NOT get grease on friction surface or rotor.
- Replace any pad retaining pins or springs with new hardware.

9) Refit caliper & torque bolts
- Slide caliper over new pads and rotor, align and install mounting bolts. Tighten bolts initially by hand then torque to manufacturer spec. If spec unavailable, tighten progressively and use a torque wrench (typical caliper bolt torque range varies widely — consult manual).

10) Reinstall wheel
- Refit wheel, hand‑tighten lug nuts, lower machine to ground, then torque lug nuts to spec in a crisscross pattern.

11) Final system checks & bleed
- Check brake fluid level in reservoir and top to correct level with manufacturer‑specified fluid.
- Pump brake pedal/lever slowly until firm to seat pads. If pedal feels spongy, bleed the brakes. Use vacuum bleeder or pressure bleeder; open bleeder nipple, draw fluid until bubbles gone, close, and repeat at each wheel according to sequence in manual.
- Inspect for leaks around hoses, calipers, and fittings.

12) Test
- With machine on solid level ground and in a safe area, perform low‑speed functional tests: engage parking brake, move slowly, test stopping performance. Recheck fluid level and torques after first few hours of operation.

Replacement parts required
- New brake pads specific to the model (part number from parts manual).
- Pad hardware kit: shims, clips, retaining pins if worn/corroded.
- Possible caliper rebuild kit if seals/boots are damaged.
- Rotor replacement if below minimum thickness or damaged.
- Brake fluid (manufacturer specified type).

How the tools are used (short)
- Caliper piston tool / C‑clamp: applies even force to press piston back into caliper bore so pads fit. Screw‑type piston tool gives controlled compression; C‑clamp is acceptable for single piston calipers.
- Torque wrench: tightens caliper and wheel bolts to correct clamping force — prevents loose bolts or over‑stretching.
- Brake bleeder/vacuum pump: draws fluid and air out of bleed nipple to remove air and ensure firm pedal.
- Brake cleaner & wire brush: remove contamination and rust for proper seating of hardware.
- Anti‑seize: small smear on threads only to prevent seizure (not on braking surfaces).

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Allowing caliper to hang by hose — always support caliper.
- Contaminating pads or rotor with grease, oil, or brake fluid — discard contaminated pads/clean or replace rotor.
- Over‑compressing or forcing a piston — can damage seals; retract slowly and evenly, use correct tool.
- Not replacing worn pad hardware — causes noise or uneven wear.
- Not checking rotor thickness / condition — new pads on a bad rotor will shorten pad life and may cause vibration.
- Failing to bleed after compressing pistons or after fluid loss — causes spongy brakes.
- Reusing old hardware that’s corroded — leads to improper fit or broken retainers.
- Not torquing bolts to spec — under/over torque can lead to failures.

If brakes are wet multi‑disc inside final drive
- This is not covered by the steps above. Wet pack replacement requires removal of final drive assembly, disassembly, replacement of friction plates and steels, seals and bearings as needed, cleaning and refilling with the correct gear/oil and torqueing to spec. Follow the factory service manual or have a dealer perform that service.

End notes
- Always follow the Toyota skid‑steer service manual torque specs and bleeding sequence when available.
- Replace pads on both sides of an axle pair at the same time to ensure even braking.
rteeqp73

Toyota Huski 5SDK10 skid steer review | Earthmovers & Excavators In this video, TradeEarthmovers.com.au chief heavy machinery reviewer Ron Horner climbs into the cabin of a Toyota Huski ...

1988 TOYOTA SDK 7 SKID STEER RESTORATION THIS IS THE FINAL PART (PART 3) TO THE WILL IT RUN SERIES ON THIS 1988 TOYOTA SDK7 SKID STEER. IN THIS VIDEO ...

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