- Safety first (read this before touching anything)
- Wear safety glasses, nitrile or mechanic gloves, steel-toe boots, and clothing that won’t snag.
- Work on a flat, level surface with wheel chocks and the parking brake set.
- Disconnect the battery before starting any work.
- Use proper lifting/support equipment — never rely on jacks or blocks alone under heavy components.
- Have a fire extinguisher and first-aid kit available.

- Required documentation (why it matters)
- Obtain the Toyota/engine/transmission service manual for the exact model and serial range — it contains torque specs, bolt locations, fluid types, lift points, and model-specific disassembly notes that are essential and mandatory for safe, correct reassembly.
- If you can’t get the official manual, get a reputable repair manual for your exact model series; do not rely on generic instructions.

- Basic tools (what each is, why it’s needed, and how to use it)
- Socket set (metric): deep and shallow sockets, 6–24 mm range
- Description: sockets on a ratchet handle for loosening/tightening bolts.
- Use: pick the correct socket size, seat fully on the bolt head, pull straight to avoid rounding bolts.
- Ratchet and breaker bar
- Description: ratchet for regular fastening, breaker bar for breaking loose tight bolts.
- Use: breaker bar gives leverage for stuck bolts; use smooth controlled force; ratchet for final tightening/loosen.
- Torque wrench (click-type, appropriate range, e.g., 10–200 ft-lb or metric equivalent)
- Description: wrench that indicates when specified torque is reached.
- Use: set specified torque from the manual and tighten until it clicks; required for flywheel/flexplate/torque converter bolts.
- Impact wrench (optional but helpful)
- Description: pneumatic or battery tool that rapidly loosens/tightens bolts.
- Use: speeds removal; avoid using it for final torque (use torque wrench instead).
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack plus adapter and jack stands
- Description: lowers/raises the transmission safely and supports its weight.
- Use: center the transmission on the jack saddle, secure with strap; jack stands must hold machine if lifted.
- Engine hoist or engine support bar (if transmission removal requires supporting/raising engine)
- Description: supports the engine while transmission is removed.
- Use: chain to lifting points specified in the manual; do not stress engine mounts unintentionally.
- Drain pan and fluid pump
- Description: collects hydraulic/transmission fluid and allows refill.
- Use: position under drain point, pump old fluid into sealed containers for proper disposal.
- Pry bars and large screwdrivers (panel/pump cover removal)
- Description: used for separating components gently.
- Use: apply controlled prying; protect mating surfaces (use wood blocks or soft-faced tools).
- Seal puller and small picks
- Description: remove old seals and O-rings without destroying housings.
- Use: hook and pull old seals; remove debris thoroughly.
- Rubber mallet
- Description: non-marring hammer for persuading parts without damage.
- Use: tap steadily; don’t strike hard metal-to-metal.
- Flexplate/flywheel holding tool or pry bar and threaded bolt method (model-dependent)
- Description: holds the flexplate from rotating while breaking torque converter/flexplate bolts.
- Use: follow manual method to prevent spin; improper holding can cause injury.
- Alignment dowels or guide studs (often inexpensive aftermarket studs)
- Description: temporarily align transmission to engine to guide it on during reinstallation.
- Use: screw into bellhousing threads; slide transmission onto studs to align splines.
- Clean rags, brake cleaner or solvent, and gasket sealant (if required)
- Description: clean mating surfaces and apply sealants per manual.
- Use: clean until dry and grease-free; apply sealant only where specified.
- Replacement fluid, filter, gaskets, O-rings, and new pump/shaft seals (see parts section)
- Description/use: fresh fluid and seals ensure no leaks and correct operation.
- Work light and extras (magnet tray for bolts, marker for labeling)
- Description/use: keep track of fasteners and illuminate tight spaces.

- Extra/specialty tools that are often required and why
- Transmission jacking plate or adapter specific to the transmission
- Why: prevents transmission from falling and aligns load center; required for safe removal.
- Crankshaft/flexplate locking tool for your specific engine
- Why: many torque converter bolts are accessed via the flexplate; locking prevents movement while loosening/tightening.
- Seal driver set / seal installation tool
- Why: installs new seals squarely without damaging them.
- Slide hammer or puller (rarely needed)
- Why: used only if converter or input shaft is stuck.
- Diagnostic reader or handheld for hydraulic drive systems (model-dependent)
- Why: some skid steers log faults; clearing and verifying hydraulic system status after replacement may require reading fault codes.

- Parts likely to be needed (what each is and why you may need to replace it)
- Torque converter (new or remanufactured)
- Why: damaged converter (worn bearings, seals, clutch failure, strange noises, slipping, burned fluid) must be replaced; reman units are common.
- Pump input shaft seal / converter hub seal / O-rings
- Why: seals commonly leak when the converter is removed; always replace to prevent leaks.
- Flexplate/flywheel (inspection; replacement if damaged)
- Why: cracked, warped, or damaged bolt holes require replacement for safety; balancing considerations.
- Bolts (torque converter-to-flexplate bolts, pump bolts, trans mount bolts)
- Why: bolts can stretch/corrode; many manuals require replacing certain torque converter bolts.
- Transmission filter and fluid (hydraulic/transmission oil specific to model)
- Why: contamination from a failing converter can have debris; fresh fluid and filter are essential.
- Bearing(s) or input shaft components (if excessive play or wear found)
- Why: worn bearings can destroy a new converter quickly; inspect and replace if out of tolerance.
- Gaskets and mating surface sealant
- Why: prevents leaks at housings once reassembled.

- Preparation and inspection tasks (before removal)
- Drain hydraulic/transmission fluid into an approved container for disposal or testing.
- Clean area around bellhousing, hoses, and connectors to prevent contamination.
- Label and photograph hose and wiring locations for reassembly (visual memory aid).
- Inspect flexplate for cracks, scoring, or damaged bolt holes — replace if any damage.
- Check service manual for torque specs, bolt patterns, and any special steps for your model.

- General removal process (follow the manual for model-specific differences)
- Secure machine, disconnect battery, drain fluid, and remove any engine covers and skid-pan or panels that block access.
- Support/secure engine and/or transmission per manual instructions so neither shifts unexpectedly.
- Disconnect drive lines, hydraulic hoses, sensors, linkages, and electrical connectors that attach transmission to the frame/engine.
- Remove transmission-to-engine bolts and use alignment guide studs or a transmission jack to steady the transmission as you separate it from the engine.
- Slide transmission back slowly; once separated, rotate the flexplate as needed to access torque converter bolts through the access holes (or through the bellhousing) and remove them.
- Carefully slide the torque converter forward off the transmission input shaft — note that many converters are heavy and may need two people or mechanical assistance; support it while removing.
- Inspect the input shaft splines, pump seal bore, and converter hub for scoring, metal shavings, or evidence of failed bearings.

- Cleaning and inspection (what to look for)
- Inspect the converter mounting flange and flexplate contact surface for heat discoloration or wear.
- Check for metal debris in the torque converter and transmission oil — heavy contamination may require further disassembly or rebuild.
- Inspect all seals and replace any that show wear; check bearing play on the transmission input shaft.
- Clean mating surfaces with solvent; do not use compressed air on wet surfaces or push contaminants into seals.

- Installation of the new torque converter (key points, not a substitute for manual)
- Coat the new torque converter hub, input splines, and seals lightly with the manufacturer-specified fluid — this prevents dry starts and ease of assembly.
- Slide the converter onto the transmission input shaft, rotating slightly until you feel it seat fully — you should feel 2 distinct engagements (one for the pump and one when it fully seats on the input).
- Measure or check for full seating per manual — improper seating can damage seals and splines.
- Rotate and align bolt holes; install new torque converter bolts hand-tight in a star pattern, then torque to the specification from your service manual with a torque wrench.
- Reinstall transmission, using guide studs/dowels to align; slowly push the transmission forward until it mates to the engine and the flexplate/converter assembly aligns.
- Torque transmission-to-engine bolts to spec, reconnect mounts, linkages, wiring, and hoses, replace filters and gaskets, and refill fluids to the correct level and type specified in the manual.

- Fluids, fill procedure, and bleeding
- Use the exact fluid type and capacity specified by Toyota for your model series.
- After initial fill, start the engine and cycle through the drive controls per manual to circulate fluid and purge air.
- Recheck fluid level at operating temperature per the service procedure; add only what the manual says.

- Tests and final checks
- Check for leaks around seals and fittings with the machine idling and under low load.
- Perform a cautious functional test under light load, checking for noises, shudders, slipping, or abnormal heat.
- Re-torque critical fasteners after a short break-in run if the manual demands it.

- Common pitfalls and warnings (avoid these)
- Do not run the machine with a partially seated torque converter — this will damage seals and the pump.
- Never rely on an impact wrench for final torque on critical bolts — use the torque wrench.
- Replacing only the converter without addressing contaminated fluid or damaged bearings risks repeating failure.
- If you find metal contamination in fluid, consider a transmission specialist: contamination can mean internal damage requiring disassembly or replacement.

- When to call a professional
- If you find heavy metal debris, damaged bearings, warped flexplate, or you don’t have the lifting/support gear to safely remove and reinstall the transmission, call a qualified technician.
- If you’re unsure about torque specs, seal installation, or detecting worn internal parts — a shop can prevent catastrophic re-failure.

- Disposal and environmental notes
- Collect and recycle old hydraulic/transmission fluids and contaminated rags at a proper facility.
- Dispose of old parts (seals, filters) according to local regulations.

- Final reminder (mandatory)
- Follow the Toyota/service manual for your exact model for exact bolt torque values, the sequence of operations, and any model-specific warnings — those specifications are mandatory and are not replaceable by general instructions.

- Quick parts checklist to have ready
- New torque converter (or reman unit)
- Torque converter-to-flexplate bolts (new if specified)
- Pump/input shaft seal(s), O-rings, and gaskets
- Transmission filter (if applicable) and recommended fluid
- Any fasteners or bracket bolts that are corroded or damaged

- Tools checklist to have ready
- Socket set, ratchet, breaker bar, torque wrench
- Transmission jack or suitable jack + support, engine hoist/support (as required)
- Seal puller/driver, pry bars, rubber mallet
- Drain pan, fluid pump, cleaning supplies, replacement parts listed above

- End note
- The procedure is physically demanding and requires correct tools and documented torque/spec data from the service manual. If any step feels beyond your capabilities or the machine lacks safe support/lifting gear, have a shop perform the replacement.
rteeqp73

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