Goal: flush the engine coolant system and the transmission oil cooler(s) on a vehicle with a ZF automatic (i.e., the radiator or a separate heat‑exchanger contains the transmission oil cooler). This keeps coolant flowing, removes corrosion and deposits, and prevents the radiator/heat‑exchanger from clogging and causing transmission overheating or coolant/ATF cross‑contamination. I’ll explain the theory, every relevant component, tools and supplies, a step‑by‑step procedure for a safe, effective flush, and what can go wrong.

Short theory and analogy
- Why do this? Coolant carries heat away from the engine and from the transmission oil cooler. Over time coolant corrodes, deposits scale and rust, or becomes acidic; these reduce heat transfer and can clog the fine passages in the radiator/plate heat exchanger. If the transmission oil cooler is blocked or corroded, the transmission overheats and wears rapidly. Worse, internal corrosion can lead to a leak between coolant and ATF — like a thin wall between two pipes developing a hole.
- Analogy: think of the cooling system as a home radiators and the transmission oil cooler as a small coil inside that radiator. If the water in the house gathers rust and sludge, the coil and radiators will clog and stop taking heat away. Flushing replaces the dirty water with clean fluid and clears the internal passages.
- Two important distinctions:
1. “Coolant flush” = engine cooling system (water/antifreeze) flush. This can include the radiator’s built‑in transmission oil cooler.
2. “ATF flush” = transmission fluid service. Those are separate jobs. Flushing coolant does not usually change ATF — but if the coolant has mixed with ATF or vice versa, both systems must be serviced.

Key components and what each does (detailed)
- Radiator: big finned heat exchanger at front. Coolant flows through internal tubes; air passing over fins removes heat.
- Transmission oil cooler (within radiator or separate): a small heat exchanger (often a plate or small tube bundle) inside or attached to the radiator. Transmission fluid flows through it; coolant flows past it to remove heat from ATF.
- Transmission cooler lines: metal and/or rubber lines that carry ATF to/from the cooler. Two lines: feed (hot ATF out of trans) and return (cooled ATF back to trans).
- Thermostat: valve that blocks coolant flow to radiator until engine warms; for an effective flush open thermostat is needed, so warm engine first.
- Water pump: circulates coolant through engine, heater core and radiator; needed to push flushing water through system.
- Heater core: small radiator inside the cabin used for heating; part of the coolant loop—must be bled and flushed as needed.
- Expansion/overflow tank (reservoir): holds extra coolant and lets air escape; important when bleeding the system.
- Radiator cap: holds pressure and sets boiling point; remove only when cold or per procedure.
- Hoses: upper/lower radiator hoses, heater hoses, bypass hoses; clamps secure them.
- Drain petcock (if present): screw/drain at bottom of radiator to dump coolant.
- Bleed valves/ports: some cars have bleeder screws to remove trapped air.
- Sensors: coolant temperature sensor(s) used for engine management.
- Cooler adapter or sandwich plate (if present at transmission housing): connects cooler lines to transmission. Often has sealing washers or O‑rings.
- Clamps/fittings/seals: worm clamps, spring clamps, banjo bolts, sealing washers.

Tools & supplies
- Safety: gloves, eye protection, drip pans, cardboard, shop rags.
- Tools: basic hand tools (sockets, wrenches), pliers for hose clamps, screwdriver, jack and jack stands or ramps, funnel, garden hose, bucket(s), tubing to direct flow, drain pan(s), catch bottle for ATF if you disconnect lines, clamp pliers or hose clamp pliers if spring clips used.
- Chemicals/supplies: appropriate coolant (OEM spec: G12/G13/HOAT/DEX‑COOL etc—use manufacturer recommended), distilled water (if mixing), radiator flush chemical (optional for heavy deposits), new hose clamps (recommended), new sealing washers or O‑rings for cooler lines if applicable, replacement thermostat (optional if old), new radiator cap (optional).
- Disposal: container for used coolant. DO NOT pour coolant on ground — recycle.

Before you start — safety and prep
- Work on a cold engine. Cooling system is pressurized when hot — opening hot cap can spray scalding fluid.
- Park level, set parking brake, block wheels. Use jack stands if you raise front.
- Put drip pan under radiator and transmission cooler lines.
- Wear gloves and goggles. Keep pets and kids away; coolant is sweet but toxic.

General strategy (two options depending on how deep you want to go)
A) Basic coolant flush (radiator drain + refill + bleed) — minimal fuss, clears most contamination, uses garden hose flush through radiator until clear.
B) Full flush including transmission cooler and lines — more thorough. Includes removing/routing/isolating cooler lines so you can force clean water through the cooler and lines until clear. This is recommended if you have rust, sludge, or suspect contamination.

Step‑by‑step: Full coolant + transmission cooler flush (beginner‑friendly)
1) Warm engine, then shut off and let cool until safe to touch. Why warm first? Thermostat opens so coolant from the entire block & heater core is in circulation — gives a better drain/flush.
2) Raise vehicle and secure on jack stands if needed so you can access lower radiator hose and transmission cooler lines. Place large drain pan under radiator; also have a separate container for any ATF that may come from cooler lines.
3) Relieve cooling system pressure: with engine cold, slowly remove radiator cap or reservoir cap to relieve vacuum. Use rag and slow turns.
4) Drain coolant:
- If radiator has a petcock, open it and let drain.
- If not, loosen lower radiator hose clamp and disconnect hose into a pan. You’ll get most of the coolant out.
- Also open the engine block drain if present (often on the engine block); this helps remove coolant from engine passages.
- Save used coolant in container for proper disposal.
5) Disconnect transmission cooler lines (optional but recommended for a true cooler flush):
- Identify the transmission cooler lines that enter the radiator or cooler. There are two: one in, one out. They may be quick‑connects, banjo bolts, or threaded fittings.
- Put a catch pan/bottle under the connections. Loosen and disconnect the line(s), or use manufacturer method to access the cooler. Expect a small amount of ATF to leak out.
- Cap or plug the transmission ports on the transmission with a clean rag or suitable cap to prevent dirt/ATF loss. Also cap the radiator cooler ports with a short piece of hose to prevent coolant from dumping into the trans if you proceed.
- Note: If lines are rusty or fittings look weak, be prepared to replace them or call a pro. Don’t force a seized fitting.
6) Flush radiator + engine passages with garden hose:
- Insert garden hose into upper radiator neck (or remove upper hose and stick hose down). With lower hose still disconnected, run water through until clear water runs out of the lower hose/bottom. Cycle water until no brown/dirty stuff.
- Run water through heater hoses if accessible (clamp one hose and insert hose into the other) to flush heater core as well.
- If thermostat is stuck closed and you can’t get flow through engine, remove thermostat (optional) first before flushing.
7) Flush the transmission oil cooler (the heat exchanger) separately:
- With cooler lines disconnected, use a gentle water source (garden hose) to run water through each port of the cooler until it runs clear. Run water in both directions (feed then reverse) to remove trapped debris. Use low pressure — do not use power washer or very high pressure; you can damage thin plates or blow debris into the transmission if reconnected incorrectly.
- Capture outgoing water. Some debris may look greasy. If the cooler is heavily blocked or the water coming out contains metallic particles or sludge, replace the cooler or radiator (the internal cooler is not serviceable).
8) Clean and inspect hoses and clamps:
- Inspect upper/lower radiator hoses, heater hoses and cooler lines for soft spots, bulges, cracking or swelling. Replace suspect hoses.
- Replace hose clamps if they’re corroded.
9) Reattach everything:
- Reconnect transmission cooler lines with new sealing washers/O‑rings if required. Tighten to spec (if you don’t have spec, snug, then an additional small fraction of a turn; don’t over‑torque banjo bolts).
- Reconnect lower radiator hose.
10) Refill with distilled water first, then run engine:
- Close drain petcock.
- Fill radiator and overflow tank with distilled water (or 50/50 premix coolant if you prefer — but many pros fill with water first for a short run to burp, then add concentrated coolant). Use a funnel and fill slowly.
- Start engine and set heater to max hot, fan low. Watch for leaks around cooler lines and hose connections.
- Run engine until thermostat opens (upper radiator hose gets hot) and water circulates. Squeeze hoses to push air bubbles out.
- Add coolant mixture as level drops.
11) Bleed the system of air:
- Use bleeder screw(s) if present. If not, leave radiator cap off and allow engine to run with heater on until air bubbles stop at filler neck and coolant level stabilizes. Top off reservoir.
- Cycle the engine temp (idle and gentle rev) and continue to top off.
12) Final refill with correct coolant and set mixture:
- Once all air is out and system cool, drain the distilled water if you used it and fill to the required antifreeze/water ratio (often 50/50). Or replace with OEM premix directly at initial fill if you prefer.
- Cap radiator, top up overflow to the specified mark.
13) Test drive and recheck:
- Drive for 10–20 minutes. Avoid heavy loads. Park and recheck coolant level, look for leaks, check transmission ATF level and color after run. Check for milky ATF (sign of coolant contamination).
14) Dispose of used coolant properly.

What to look for in inspection and after the flush
- Coolant clarity: should be clear or correct color (manufacturer color); no rust flakes, oil film, or sludge.
- Transmission fluid color and smell: ATF should be clean red/amber (varies by type). Milky, coffee‑colored or frothy ATF indicates coolant intrusion — stop and do a transmission service and coolant/ATF separation procedure immediately.
- No leaks from cooler lines or radiator seams.
- Temp stable: watch gauge for overheating.
- Heater function: if heater doesn’t get hot or gets hot then cold repeatedly, an air pocket may remain—rebleed.

Common failure modes and things that can go wrong
- Air trapped in the system: causes overheating and local boiling. Remedy: proper bleeding.
- Damaged or cracked radiator/cooler: using pressure from a hose or old brittle hoses can cause rupture or blow apart corroded cooling passages. Replace if corroded.
- Cross‑contamination (coolant into ATF or ATF into coolant): can happen if the transmission cooler inside the radiator fails. Signs: milky fluid in ATF or coolant, white foamy coolant. If suspected, stop using vehicle and address both systems: flush cooling system, flush/replace radiator or cooler, change ATF and filter, possibly remove and flush transmission pan and torque converter if contamination is significant. This can be catastrophic to the transmission if not addressed.
- Pushing debris into transmission lines: if you flush with high pressure and don’t isolate the transmission ports, you can force debris into the transmission. Isolate or capture each end when flushing.
- Improper coolant type: mixing incompatible coolants (e.g., phosphate silicate types with organic acid types) can gel or form deposits. Always use OEM specified coolant.
- Loose or leaking fittings: after reconnecting cooler lines, leaks can be ATF (wet dark oil) or coolant. Tighten to spec and use new washers/O‑rings.
- Sludge still present in heater core or small passages: sometimes a simple garden hose flush is insufficient—chemical flush or component replacement required.
- Overfilling or underfilling ATF after servicing cooler lines: small ATF loss occurs when cooler lines are disconnected; check and top ATF to correct level after system back to normal operating temp (follow transmission fill procedure).

When to replace vs flush the cooler
- Replace radiator if the internal transmission cooler is corroded or leaking.
- Replace if flushing produces persistent particulate, metallic flakes, or the cooler will not pass water at low pressure.
- If ATF contamination with coolant occurred, replace or thoroughly clean the radiator/cooler and change the transmission fluid/filter; consider a transmission shop if contamination was heavy.

Quick checklist for a successful job
- Warm engine first to open thermostat
- Capture fluids (coolant and any ATF) and dispose properly
- Isolate transmission ports when flushing the radiator if you don’t want to risk sending water into the trans
- Flush cooler both directions with low pressure
- Replace old hoses, clamps, and sealing washers if needed
- Bleed air thoroughly; use heater on max to help
- Check ATF for milky contamination after the job
- Recheck levels and leaks after a short test drive

Signs you need a professional
- Milky/translucent ATF, strong crunchy metallic particles in fluid, persistent overheating after several bleeding attempts, seized fittings that break when you try to loosen them, or internal radiator/cooler failure. Those may require radiator replacement and transmission service beyond a DIY flush.

Final note
Vehicle designs vary, and connector types and bleed points differ. Use the vehicle’s service manual for exact locations, capacities, and torque specs. Following the above method will clear most coolant systems and clean the transmission oil cooler safely if done carefully and with the correct isolation/capture when disconnecting lines.

Done.
rteeqp73

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