Austin
Austin Tempest
1997–2002 4.0
BMW
E30
1984–1985 318i M10/B18
1984–1985 323i M20/B23
1983–1988 325e M20/B27:[1] Type A
1986–1992 325i M20/B25:[1] Type A
1987–1991 325ix M20/B25:[1] Type A
E28
1981–1987 518i M10/B18:[2] Type B
1981–1987 520i M20/B20:[2] Type B
1986–1988 524d M21/D24:[2] Type B
1983–1987 524td M21/D24:[2] Type B
1983–1988 525e M20/B27:[2] Type A
1981–1987 525i M30/B25:[2] Type A
1981–1987 528e M20/B27
1981–1987 528i M30/B28:[2] Type A
1983–1984 533i M30/B32
1984–1988 535i M30/B34:[2] Type A
E24
1983–1989 633CSi M30/B32
1983–1987 635CSi M30/B34
E23
1983–1984 733i M30/B32
1984–1987 735i M30/B34:[3] Type A
1984–1987 745i (South African version) M88/3:[4] Type A
E34
1988–1992 520i M20/B20, M50/B20:[5] Type A
1988–1992 524td M21/D24:[5] Type B
1988–1992 525i M20/B25, M50/B25:[5] Type A
1988–1992 530i M30/B30, M60/B30:[5] Type A
1988–1993 535i M30/B35:[5] Type A
E32
1986–1994 730i M30/B30:[6] Type A
1986–1992 735i M30/B35:[6] Type A
1986–1992 735iL M30/B35:[6] Type A
Chevrolet
Opala
1988–1992 2.5 (151):[7][8] Type A
1988–1992 4.1 (250):[7][8] Type A
Jaguar
XJ40
1987–1993 3.6
X300
1994–1997 3.2
XJS
Jaguar xj6 1994-1997
1987–1997 3.6
Land Rover
Defender
1997 90 V8 4.0L North America Spec
1998 90 V8 4.0L Defender 50th Special Edition
Discovery (Series I)
1992–1999 V8 3.9L
Discovery (Series II)
1999–2002 V8 4.0L
Range Rover
1987–2002 (except 4.6)
Lincoln
Continental
1984–1985 2.4 litre (BMW-Steyr turbodiesel)
Maserati
Biturbo
1988–1997 2.5 V6
1988–1997 2.8 V6
Quattroporte
1994–1998 2.8 V6
Peugeot
505
1986–1997 2.0 (XN,[9][10][11]): Type A
1986–1997 2.0 (ZEJ[9][11]): Type A
1986–1997 2.2 (N9T,[11]): Type A
1986–1997 2.2 (ZDJ[9][10][11][12]): Type A
1986–1997 2.5 (XD3[10][13]): Type A
1986–1997 2.8 (ZN3J[11]): Type A
604
1987–1989 2.5
Volvo
740
pre–1985 GL, GLE 2.3 (non turbo) B230F:[14] Type B
1986–after GL, GLE 2.3 (non turbo) B230F:[15] Type A
1984–1986 2.4L TD (ZF 4HP22L)
760
1986–1991 2.3L
1983–1986 GLE 2.4 Turbo Diesel D24T:[16] Type B
940
1991–1995 2.3
Short, practical, and without extra chatter. I’ll cover two possible meanings of “drive belt on a ZF automatic” because people mean different things: (A) the common external accessory (serpentine/drive) belt that runs things like the alternator/AC/power steering on a vehicle fitted with a ZF automatic, and (B) the rare case of an internal belt in some belt-driven transmissions/CVTs (ZF has made some belt-type units for special applications). If you really mean one or the other, follow that section — I won’t ask.
A. External accessory (serpentine) drive belt — full beginner-friendly how-to
This is the usual DIY job. The belt is outside the transmission and simple to replace.
Why this repair is needed (theory, in plain terms)
- The drive belt transfers rotational power from the engine crankshaft to accessory pulleys (alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor, sometimes the transmission auxiliary pump). Think of the belt as a rubber band around several gears: it must be the correct length, aligned in the grooves, and under correct tension to run quietly and transmit power.
- Over time a belt hardens, cracks, glazes, or loses rib profile; tensioners and idler pulleys wear or seize. A worn belt causes squeal, poor charging, overheating of accessories, or loss of power steering/AC. If it breaks, you’ll lose those accessories instantly — a safety problem if power steering fails on the road.
Components (every component you’ll encounter)
- Drive belt (serpentine belt): ribbed rubber loop sized to fit vehicle.
- Crankshaft pulley (drive pulley): drives the belt; usually the largest pulley.
- Accessory pulleys: alternator, A/C compressor, power steering pump, water pump (some cars), sometimes an auxiliary transmission pump.
- Tensioner (automatic tensioner): spring-loaded pulley that keeps belt tension. Often a single-arm assembly with a pulley and a bolt for rotating it.
- Idler pulleys: non-driven pulleys that route the belt.
- Belt routing diagram: sticker under hood or in manual; shows path.
- Fasteners and mounting bolts for pulleys/tensioner.
- (Optional) Belt dressing — don’t use; it’s a band-aid, avoid.
- Tools: ratchet and sockets, breaker bar or long wrench for tensioner, belt tension gauge (optional), pry bar, screwdrivers, gloves, penetrating oil, torque wrench for mounting bolts.
Preparation and safety
- Work on level ground, engine off, parking brake set, wheels chocked.
- Let engine cool if hot.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if you will remove alternator or work around wiring.
- Wear gloves and eye protection.
- Take a clear photo of belt routing before removal if there’s no diagram.
Step-by-step replacement (beginner mechanic friendly)
1. Identify routing: find belt routing diagram; if none, take a clear photo and trace the belt path with a marker.
2. Locate the tensioner pulley: it’s spring-loaded, usually has a square hole or a bolt head to rotate it.
3. Relieve belt tension:
- Fit an appropriate socket on the tensioner square or bolt.
- Rotate the tensioner (usually clockwise or counterclockwise depending on model) to relieve tension and slip the belt off any one pulley (usually the easiest-to-reach accessory).
- Support the tensioner as you release to avoid it snapping back.
4. Remove the old belt: pull it off all pulleys and compare to the new belt for length and rib count.
5. Inspect pulleys and components:
- Spin each pulley by hand. Check for roughness, wobble, play, or grinding noise.
- Inspect the tensioner for smooth action and no binding; check idler pulley bearings.
- Look for belt contamination — oil, coolant, or power steering fluid will ruin a new belt.
- Check crank pulley (harmonic balancer) for wobble or separation.
6. Replace worn pulleys/tensioner as needed:
- If bearings are rough or there is axial play, replace that pulley/tensioner. These are relatively cheap and extend belt life.
7. Install the new belt:
- Route belt following the diagram/photo. Leave one pulley (usually easiest) to remove last.
- Use the breaker bar/socket to rotate tensioner and slip the belt fully onto the last pulley.
- Carefully release tensioner so it takes up the slack.
8. Check alignment and tension:
- Ensure ribs seat fully in grooves and belt tracks centered on each pulley.
- If the vehicle uses an automatic tensioner, no further adjustment needed. If adjustable, set tension per factory spec or use belt tension gauge.
9. Reconnect battery if disconnected.
10. Start engine, observe for 30–60 seconds:
- Watch for proper tracking, noises (chirping, squeal), wobble, or belt movement off pulleys.
- Turn steering to full lock to check power steering operation under load (if applicable). Check alternator charging voltage.
11. Shut engine and recheck bolt torque on any removed accessories.
Common things that can go wrong
- Wrong belt routing: leads to wrong pulley direction or interference — causes noise or accessory damage.
- Reusing a weak tensioner: belt will slip and squeal; tensioners wear out with time.
- Contaminating the new belt with oil or coolant: causes rapid failure.
- Not checking pulleys: a seized idler will quickly shred a new belt.
- Over-torquing or misaligning pulleys when replacing parts: causes bearing damage and noise.
- Failure to note rib count/length: wrong belt will not seat or will fail quickly.
Quick troubleshooting signs
- Squeal at cold start: likely tensioner or glazing.
- Squeal under load/turning: misalignment or seized pulley.
- Burning rubber smell: slip or misrouted belt.
- Loss of accessories immediately after start: belt slipped off or broke.
Maintenance tips
- Replace belt every recommended miles or at first sign of cracking/glazing.
- Replace tensioner/idler every other belt change (cheap insurance).
- Keep pulleys clean and free of oil/grease.
- Use OEM or equivalent belt with correct rib profile.
Analogies to lock concepts in
- Belt = rubber highway connecting cities (pulleys). Potholes (cracks) slow traffic or break the road. Tensioner = traffic cop keeping the highway tight and orderly; a lazy cop (weak spring) won’t stop jams (slip).
- Idler = a traffic roundabout that can redirect flow; if it seizes, traffic backs up and crashes.
B. Internal transmission “drive belt” (CVT-style or belt-driven components inside a transmission)
Some transmissions (including some specialized ZF units used in buses, trucks, or CVT-type systems) use an internal belt or chain inside the gearbox. This is a different job: it’s advanced, often requires full transmission removal, a clean workbench, special tools, and factory procedures. I’ll give the theory, failure signs, and a high-level overview only — not a full do-it-in-your-driveway step-by-step.
Theory (how it works)
- An internal drive belt/chain in a transmission transfers torque between variable-diameter pulleys (in CVTs) or between shafts (in some secondary drives). Belts are often steel link belts covered with friction material, or high-strength rubberized bands depending on design.
- They must operate under precise clamping force and lubrication. The transmission’s hydraulics and pulleys adjust clamping force and geometry to vary ratio.
- If the belt wears or the clamping system fails, the belt will slip, produce metal particles, or break — catastrophic for the transmission.
Symptoms of internal belt failure
- Loss of drive or severe slipping under load.
- Shuddering under acceleration, burning smell, metallic particles in fluid.
- Transmission codes or immediate limp mode.
Why internal repairs are complex / what can go wrong
- Contamination control: small dirt causes rapid wear.
- Precision assembly: clearances, spring preloads, torque sequences and shimming matter.
- Special tools: holding fixtures, dial indicators, hydraulic test rigs often required.
- Reassembly mistakes lead to immediate failure, internal damage, fluid leaks, poor cooling, or safety hazards.
- Internal components (clutches, bands, planetary sets) are heavy, spring-loaded, and can cause injury if handled wrong.
High-level repair outline (not a DIY step-by-step)
- Remove transmission from vehicle, drain fluid, disassemble in clean room.
- Inspect pulley faces, belt condition, sprocket teeth, bearings, and hydraulic actuators.
- Replace belt and any worn telescoping clutches, seals, and bearings. Replace fluid, filter, and gaskets.
- Reassemble with exacting torques, endplay checks, and hydraulic pressure adjustments.
- Bench test or road test per factory procedure.
If you suspect an internal belt problem, recommend:
- Have a transmission shop with ZF experience do the work.
- If you insist on DIY, get the factory workshop manual, special tools, and a clean controlled workspace; understand this is advanced work.
Final short checklist (practical, no-nonsense)
- If you mean external accessory belt: follow section A step-by-step. Bring correct belt, inspect tensioner/idlers, replace bad parts, verify alignment/tension, test-run.
- If you mean internal transmission belt or CVT-type belt: this is specialized; do not attempt without factory manual and tools — better to go to a qualified transmission shop.
No extra commentary. rteeqp73
Epic 8speed ZF gearbox, bmw X5 exhaust sound. XDrive35i Video from Daybreaker Kuru&Wealth.
WATCH THIS BEFORE REPLACING YOUR TRANSMISSION!! Many people forget to line up the torque converter with the trans oil pump before reinstalling the transmission. This causes the ...
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