What you’re calling the “intake gasket” on a ZF automatic transmission is the seal that makes the suction side of the transmission oil system (the area around the oil-pump inlet or suction strainer) air- and leak-tight. If it fails, the pump can suck air, cavitate, and oil pressure and lubrication fall off — that causes slipping, harsh or delayed shifts, overheating, and accelerated wear. Below I explain the parts involved, the theory behind the repair, common failure modes, and a practical step‑by‑step procedure for replacing the intake/suction gasket. This is written for a beginner mechanic but assumes basic workshop safety and that you will reference the exact ZF model service manual for vehicle-specific fastener torques and fluid type/levels.

Short analogy up front: the transmission oil system is like a heart and lungs. The pump is the heart, the suction/inlet and filter (strainer) are the mouth and lungs. The intake gasket is the mouth seal — if it leaks, the “heart” tries to suck air and can’t pump properly.

Parts and components (what they are and what they do)
- Transmission fluid (ATF): Lubricates, cools, and transmits hydraulic pressure to clutches and bands. Keep it clean and at the correct level.
- Oil pump (rotor/gear type): Draws ATF from the pan/torque-converter sump and creates hydraulic pressure for the whole transmission. It’s the hydraulic “heart.”
- Suction strainer / intake filter (sump screen): A coarse filter that sits over the pump inlet to block large debris from entering the pump. It has a gasket or O‑ring sealing it to the pump or case.
- Intake gasket / suction gasket (what you called intake_gasket): Seals mating surfaces (pump to case, strainer to pump) preventing air or fluid leaks. Can be a flat paper/metal gasket, rubberized gasket, or an O‑ring depending on design.
- Pump cover / pump housing: The cover that holds the pump rotors and mates to the transmission case; mating surfaces use the intake gasket.
- Torque converter and pump pick-up area: The torque converter holds the bulk oil the pump draws from; the pick-up path must remain sealed.
- Valve body (and separator plate): Control hydraulic circuits; contamination or pressure loss affects shifting.
- Pan and magnets: Collect fluid and metal filings; the pan gasket seals the pan to the case.
- Cooler lines: Carry fluid to/from the radiator cooler; on some failures fluid loss here can mimic pump issues.
- Fasteners, dowels, and alignment pins: Ensure correct alignment of pump cover and case.
- Sealing compounds: RTV or Loctite (use only when specified by manual).

Why this repair is needed (theory)
- The pump must draw a continuous column of fluid; if any air is introduced at the inlet, pump cavitation occurs. Cavitation = little vapor bubbles forming and collapsing in the pump; this reduces flow and pressure, causes noise, and accelerates wear.
- An intake gasket that is deformed, pinched, brittle, missing, or incorrectly installed allows air leaks or fluid leaks at the pump inlet or between the strainer and pump.
- Even a small leak at the suction side can drastically reduce delivered hydraulic pressure — result: slipping clutches, delayed or harsh shifts, erratic behaviour, overheating, increased wear and metal debris formation.
- Debris stuck under the strainer or a torn strainer also starves the pump even when the gasket is good.

What can go wrong if you don’t fix it
- Low line pressure → slipping, burnt clutches → transmission failure.
- Overheating due to poor hydraulic circulation → fluid degradation and faster wear.
- Metal debris from trying to pump air-damaged fluid can damage valves and solenoids.
- Intermittent faults that are hard to diagnose: low speed slip/overdrive failure or high-temp codes.

Typical symptoms indicating intake/suction gasket or strainer problem
- Whining/cavitation noise from transmission (often at startup or when cold).
- Immediate or progressive shifting problems (slips, late engages).
- Drop in hydraulic pressure (if tested).
- Low fluid level with no obvious external leak (air ingestion can foam fluid).
- Contaminants or metallic filings in the pan or on magnets.

Tools, parts, and shop requirements
- Lift or good jack + stands (safely support vehicle).
- Transmission jack if transmission removal is required (often not necessary).
- Drain pan, funnels, clean rags, brake cleaner or dedicated transmission cleaner.
- Metric sockets, ratchet, extensions, wobble, torque wrench.
- Flat-blade, nylon scraper, gasket scraper (do not gouge surfaces).
- Picks and small pry bars, clean paint pen for marking bolt locations.
- New intake/suction gasket (OEM recommended), new strainer if needed, pan gasket, new filter if serviceable.
- New transmission fluid (correct ZF-specified ATF); thread sealant if specified; new pan bolts if damaged.
- Service manual for model-specific torque values and procedures.
- Personal protective equipment: gloves, eye protection.

Step-by-step procedure (general – model details vary)
Note: Some ZF transmissions (e.g., some 6HP models) locate the suction strainer/pump cover under the valve body or under the front of the case and are serviceable from under the car without removing the transmission. Others may require more disassembly. Always follow your model’s manual for exact order and torque specs.

1) Safety first
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels. Disconnect negative battery terminal if working near electrical components.
- Raise vehicle securely on lift or jack & stands. Transmission and engine can be heavy — don’t work under unsupported vehicle.

2) Drain fluid and remove pan
- Put a large drain pan under the transmission.
- Remove the transmission pan bolts in a pattern that avoids warping and allow fluid to drain.
- Carefully lower the pan — expect sludge and filings; clean the pan and magnets, note amount/type of metal.
- Inspect pan for excessive metal (serious sign).

3) Access the strainer/pump area
- With pan out, you usually see the valve body or a portion of the valve body and the strainer assembly. On some models the strainer is inside a small sub‑assembly retained by bolts; on others it sits at the front.
- If the strainer is covered by the valve body, you may need to loosen or remove the valve body. Mark orientation and keep bolt order; they often have different lengths. Use caution: valve body has delicate sheets and small parts; keep parts clean and off to the side on a clean bench.
- If valve body removal is required, follow manual: remove electrical connectors, solenoids painted markings, then unbolt valve body gently and lower it — do not damage separator plate.

4) Remove the strainer and intake gasket
- Identify the strainer/pick-up and its gasket. The strainer often has 2–4 bolts attaching it to the pump housing.
- Remove bolts, gently extract the strainer and old gasket. If there’s a separate pump cover, remove cover bolts and then the gasket.
- Inspect the gasket(s) — flat gaskets may be paper/fiber or metal; O‑rings may be on grooves. Don’t reuse them.

5) Inspect components
- Inspect strainer mesh for perforations or large clogging particles; inspect mating surfaces for corrosion, gouges, or nicks.
- Inspect pump rotors (if exposed) for scoring, discoloration, or heavy wear.
- Check the torque-converter input area for metallic debris.
- If there is heavy metal, consider sending the transmission to a shop or doing a more thorough teardown.

6) Clean surfaces and fit new gasket
- Clean both mating surfaces thoroughly with lint-free rags and suitable cleaner. Remove all old gasket material — a nylon scraper is safer than metal to avoid damage.
- Make sure alignment dowels are in place and clean.
- If the gasket is an O‑ring, lightly lubricate with ATF and seat it properly.
- Install the new gasket/strainer and any new O‑rings. Ensure the strainer sits flush and not pinched.

7) Reassemble pump/valve body
- Torque strainer and pump cover bolts to spec (see manual). Typical small cover bolts are low torque (e.g., 8–20 Nm) — but do not guess; overtightening can warp covers and cause leaks.
- If you removed valve body, reinstall it with correct orientation using new separator plate gasket if required, and torque bolts in the correct sequence to specified torque.
- Reconnect all electrical connectors and solenoids; make sure harnesses aren’t pinched.

8) Reinstall pan and refill
- Clean pan flange and install new pan gasket or sealant as specified. Torque pan bolts in a crisscross pattern to specified torque (often low torque).
- Lower the car if you raised it for access.
- Refill with the correct type and amount of ZF-specified ATF. Some ZF transmissions require filling through the dipstick tube to a certain level with the engine idling warm and in park/neutral — follow model-specific fill procedure (temperature-dependent fill).
- Check for leaks around the pump area and pan.

9) Bleed/level procedure and test
- Start engine, allow trans to reach normal operating temperature, cycle through gears to seat clutches.
- Re-check fluid level per manual (temperature-specific levels are common).
- With vehicle safely on the ground, road test under light-to-moderate loads. Monitor for whining, slipping, or rough shifts.
- Re-check fluid level and inspect for leaks again.

What to watch for and troubleshooting after the repair
- Persistent whining/cavitation: could indicate damaged pump internals or a missed intake leak or cracked strainer.
- Low pressure on hydraulic test: pump or internal damage; may need professional bench testing.
- Excessive metal after repair: source likely internal wear — consider rebuild or replacement.
- New leaks: check bolt torque and gasket seating, ensure no damaged alignment dowels.
- Fluid foaming: may indicate air ingestion still occurring.

Common mistakes beginners make
- Reusing old gaskets or O‑rings — always replace.
- Not cleaning mating surfaces completely — leaves cause leaks or misalignment.
- Over- or under-torquing bolts — riskiest cause of future leaks or warping.
- Not following temperature-based fill/level procedure — incorrect fluid level causes poor shifting.
- Not inspecting strainer/mesh — a torn strainer will continue to starve pump.

When to get professional help
- Heavy metal in the pan, damaged pump rotors, cracked pump body, or if low pressure persists after a correct gasket/strainer replacement. Internal pump failure or major clutch/gear damage usually requires specialist tools and a rebuild.

Final checklist before starting
- Have the correct new gasket/strainer for your exact ZF model and the correct ATF type.
- Have the service manual or TSB for torque specs and fill procedure.
- Work cleanly and don’t rush. Keep fasteners and parts organized.

Bottom line
- A failing intake/suction gasket on a ZF automatic starves the pump and leads quickly to hydraulic failure. Replacing it is a moderately involved job: remove the pan/valve body as needed, replace gasket and strainer, clean mating surfaces, reinstall to proper torque, and refill/bleed per the manual. Do the inspection carefully: if you see heavy metal, cracked pump components, or persistent pressure issues, stop and consult a professional — continuing to run the transmission risks full failure.

No yapping.
rteeqp73

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