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Toyota 1FZ-FE 1FZ-F engine factory workshop and repair manual

Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Floor jack, 2 quality jack stands, wheel chocks
- 1/2" breaker bar and torque wrench (capable to ~400 Nm)
- Socket set including large axle nut socket (verify size for your vehicle; commonly 32–36 mm on Toyota 4x4s — confirm)
- Impact gun (use only for removal; DO NOT use for final torque)
- Combination wrenches, pliers, snap‑ring/circlip pliers
- Ball‑joint separator (pickle fork) or ball joint press / tie‑rod puller
- Pry bar and long drift / brass hammer
- Slide hammer (handy if stuck hub)
- Bench vise or hydraulic press (for removing/installing CV joint if not using a replacement half‑shaft)
- CV boot clamp crimper (if installing boots), small hose clamp pliers
- Clean rags, brake cleaner, penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD‑40)
- CV grease (factory spec; moly grease supplied with replacement joint)
- New parts: replacement CV joint or complete CV axle assembly (recommended), new axle nut (if required by OEM), new cotter pin or castle nut if applicable, new CV boot / clamp kit if boot is damaged, retaining circlip(s) if worn
- Drain pan (in case inner seal leaks differential/transfer oil)
- Safety glasses and nitrile gloves

Safety precautions
- Work on level ground; set parking brake; chock rear wheels.
- Loosen axle nut while wheel is on the ground.
- Never rely on the jack only — always use jack stands under solid points.
- Support suspension components when disconnecting ball joints; don’t let control arms swing unsupported.
- Wear eye protection; CV grease is messy — avoid skin contact.
- Final tightening must be done with a calibrated torque wrench to factory specs — do not rely on an impact gun for final torque.

General notes before starting
- On Toyota 4x4s it’s usually faster and more reliable to replace the complete axle/shaft assembly than to rebuild the joint unless you have the correct joint kit, special tools, and experience.
- Factory torque specs and any special removal instructions for your exact 1FZ‑FE chassis (landcruiser model/year, axle type) must be checked in the Toyota service manual. I’ll give procedure steps and callouts where you must consult the manual for exact torque/size.

Step‑by‑step procedure (outer CV / full half‑shaft replacement)
1. Preparation
- Park level, chock rear wheels, set steering straight.
- Loosen the front axle nut (while vehicle on the ground) one or two turns with breaker bar or impact using the correct axle nut socket.
- Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly (do final removal when lifted).

2. Lift and secure vehicle
- Raise vehicle with floor jack and place on jack stands under frame. Remove wheel.
- Remove plastic dust cap (if present) to expose axle nut fully.

3. Remove brake components and free up hub/knuckle
- Remove brake caliper and hang it off the suspension with wire (do NOT let it hang on the hose).
- Remove brake rotor if necessary to access hub.
- If equipped, remove ABS sensor wire brackets from knuckle to give slack.
- Remove any tie rod or sway bar end links if they block movement, but normally you’ll need to disconnect the lower ball joint or outer tie rod to allow the knuckle to swing outward.

4. Disconnect lower ball joint / loosen knuckle
- Use a ball joint separator or press to separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle (or unbolt the lower control arm as per service manual). Support the knuckle; don’t let it drop and stretch brake hoses.
- Pull the knuckle outward to expose the CV shaft spline engagement with the hub.

5. Remove axle from hub
- Remove the axle nut completely.
- Push the hub inward while pulling the CV shaft outward. If splines are seized, use a slide hammer on a hub adapter or strike the hub (not the studs) with a brass drift to unseat it. A few strong strikes to the face of the hub with a soft hammer while turning the hub can break it free.
- Be careful not to damage the ABS tone ring or sensor.

6. Extract inner end from transfer/differential
- With the outer end free from the hub, pull the CV shaft outwards. The inner joint is normally retained by a circlip; pull and pry the shaft out of the differential/transfer. Use a pry bar gently between the case and shaft flange to pop it free — be ready for a small drip of gear oil.
- Place drain pan under the diff/transfer seam. If oil leaks, clean and plan to top up to spec after.

7. Remove CV joint from shaft (only if repairing joint, not fitting full axle)
- Clean grease from shaft and joint area.
- Remove any circlip/snap ring holding the joint to the shaft using circlip pliers.
- Use a bench vise or hydraulic press to press the joint off the shaft — support the shaft and press the joint off the splines. If you don’t have a press, you can use a drift and hammer to carefully knock the joint off but this risks damage.
- Inspect splines, boots, and shaft for wear. Replace shaft if splines are badly worn.

8. Install new CV joint or full axle
Option A — full axle swap (preferred):
- Slide the new axle inner CV into the transfer/differential until the circlip engages (you should feel/hear it click). Make sure inner seal doesn’t get damaged; press straight in.
- Guide outer splines into the hub while turning the hub/rotor to align splines. Seat fully.
Option B — rebuild joint on original shaft:
- Clean shaft splines thoroughly. Fit new circlip if required.
- Slide new joint onto splines until circlip snaps into groove. Pack new CV grease into joint cavities aggressively and fill to manufacturer quantity (use grease supplied with joint).
- Install new CV boot and clamps (use a boot clamp crimper); make sure boot is sealed and not twisted.

9. Reassemble hub and suspension
- Reinstall axle nut hand‑tight to hold shaft in place.
- Reconnect lower ball joint / tie rod or control arm and torque to factory spec.
- Reinstall brake rotor and caliper; torque caliper bolts to spec.
- Torque axle nut to factory torque with torque wrench (IMPORTANT: check factory spec). If axle nut uses a tab/castle nut and cotter pin, install new cotter pin and bend as required.
- If the axle nut is specified as single‑use, install a new OEM nut.

10. Final checks
- Reinstall wheel, torque wheel nuts to spec, lower vehicle.
- Re‑check axle nut torque after lowering to the ground if the manual specifies.
- Check differential/transfer oil level and top up if any was lost during removal.
- Test drive at low speed to check for noise, clicking, or vibration. Re‑torque axle nut and suspension fasteners after ~50–100 km.

How the specific tools are used (practical tips)
- Breaker bar/impact: Breaker bar for initial loosening if tight. Impact gun can remove stubborn nuts faster but always finish with a torque wrench for final clamping value.
- Axle nut socket: Use a 6‑point deep socket to avoid rounding nut. Support torque bar against chassis to prevent impact on suspension.
- Ball‑joint separator/pickle fork: Place separator between stud and knuckle, strike puller with hammer until joint releases. A press is cleaner and prevents boot/pin damage.
- Slide hammer: Bolt adapter to hub or use hub attachment to pull hub outward if stuck on axle splines.
- Bench vise/press for CV joint: Support shaft and press joint straight off. When pressing on new joint, ensure concentric pressure so joint slides squarely onto splines and circlip seats.
- Circlip pliers: Compress the ring to remove/install. Make sure circlip is fully seated in its groove — improper seating allows axle to walk out.
- Boot clamp crimper: Correctly crimp metal clamps or use quality crimp clamps; poor clamping leads to grease loss and premature failure.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not loosening axle nut before lifting: makes removal much harder.
- Relying on the jack alone instead of jack stands — serious safety risk.
- Using an impact gun to final torque: leads to over/under torque and can damage bearings or studs.
- Not replacing a one‑time use axle nut/cotter pin: OEM may require new nut.
- Damaging ABS tone ring or sensor wiring when separating hub — disconnect and protect sensor wiring.
- Reusing a torn boot or contaminated joint: water/contamination causes quick failure — replace boot or joint.
- Not packing the joint with the correct grease/amount: leads to premature wear.
- Improper circlip seating: will allow shaft to disengage under load.
- Trying to hammer the inner joint out of the transfer without supporting the case — can crack housing or damage seal.
- Reinstalling without checking differential/transfer oil level: will result in low lubrication if some leaked.

Parts commonly required
- Complete replacement half‑shaft (recommended) OR outer CV joint kit (joint, grease, circlip, boot/clamps)
- New axle nut (if OEM specifies single‑use), new cotter pin if used
- CV boot & clamp kit (if boot damaged)
- CV joint grease
- Possibly new wheel bearing/hub parts if worn or if hub must be disassembled

Torque/spec notes
- Exact torque values and axle nut size vary by year/model and by whether it’s a hub bearing or serviceable hub. Consult the Toyota factory service manual for your 1FZ‑FE vehicle for exact axle nut torque and suspension torque specs. Do not eyeball axle nut torque.

Post‑repair checks
- Check for grease leaks around the boot and around the inner seal.
- Re‑check torques after first road test and after ~50–100 km.
- Listen for clicking on tight turns and vibration at speed — these indicate joint not seated or bad balancing/installation.

Time estimate
- Replacement of a complete axle (one side): 1–3 hours for a competent technician with right tools.
- Rebuilding a joint: longer (2–5 hours) depending on stubborn parts and need for press.

Follow factory manual for torque values and any model‑specific steps. Replace the complete half‑shaft if you want a faster, more reliable repair; rebuild only if you have a proper joint kit and tools.
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