- Safety first
- Work on a cold engine, parked on level ground, parking brake on, keys out of ignition.
- Wear nitrile or mechanic gloves, safety glasses, and have rags and a small drip tray for oil.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you will be removing electrical connectors or working near the battery.

- What the breather hose does (brief)
- Carries crankcase gases and oil mist from the valve cover/oil separator back into the intake or turbo inlet so the engine can re-burn them and so pressure is controlled.
- If it’s clogged, cracked or leaking you’ll see oil leaks, excessive crankcase pressure, smoke, or a rough idle.

- How to decide if replacement is required
- Replace the hose if you find visible cracks, soft spots, collapsed areas, hard brittle plastic, large oil pooling inside the hose, or torn ends that won’t seal.
- Replace the oil separator / PCV valve (if present) if it’s full of sludge, broken, or not sealing—these fail commonly on older diesels and cause repeat hose fouling and blow-by.
- Replace clamps that are rusty, bent, or won’t tighten properly.

- Parts you might need (recommended)
- OEM replacement breather hose (specific to 1HD-FT intake/valve cover routing) or a high-temperature silicone breather hose of the correct ID/length.
- New hose clamps: worm-drive clamps (screw type) or spring clamps depending on original style.
- Oil separator / PCV assembly if the factory unit is degraded or clogged.
- Rubber grommets or O-rings where the hose seals to the valve cover.
- Small quantity of engine-degreaser and rags for cleaning mating surfaces.

- Basic tools you likely already have (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Ratchet and socket set (commonly 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" drive): used to remove engine cover bolts or brackets. Select the socket that fits the bolt head, put it on the ratchet, place it squarely on the fastener and turn counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten.
- Extension bar for the ratchet: provides reach into tight spaces. Snap it onto the ratchet and socket to reach recessed bolts.
- Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips): used to loosen worm-drive hose clamps and to pry plastic clips. Place the tip fully into the screw slot and turn; for prying, use gentle leverage and protect painted surfaces with a rag.
- Slip-joint or adjustable pliers: used to grip and pull off hoses or hold fittings. Squeeze handles to close jaws, reposition as needed for different widths.
- Utility knife (sharp blade): used to cut old hose when it’s stuck. Score and slice carefully away from yourself; don’t cut metal or rubber mounting surfaces.
- Rags and a small container: catch oil and wipe surfaces.

- Extra tools you should get (if not in your basic kit) and why they’re needed (detailed)
- Hose clamp pliers (spring-clamp pliers) — recommended: easy and secure removal of spring-type clamps without mangling them. How to use: position the plier tips on the clamp ears, squeeze to open the clamp, slide it back on the hose, and release.
- Socket-style screwdriver or nut driver set — recommended for slotted worm-drive clamps in recessed areas where a standard screwdriver slips. How to use: choose the nut driver that fits the clamp screw and turn like a screwdriver.
- Small pick set (hook and pick) — recommended to work out old hose from a spigot and remove grommets. How to use: hook beneath the hose lip and pry gently while turning the hose to break the seal.
- Torque wrench (optional) — recommended if you remove valve cover bolts to ensure proper re-torque. How to use: set the desired torque, attach the correct socket, and tighten until the wrench clicks at the set torque.
- Replacement hose (OEM or silicone) and clamps — you need these if inspection shows failure.

- Step-by-step procedure (concise bullet sequence)
- Locate the breather hose: trace from the valve cover oil-filled area (rocker cover) to the intake/turbo inlet or oil separator—note routing and clamp positions before removal.
- Prepare workspace: place rags under the area, remove any plastic engine top cover by undoing its fasteners using ratchet or screwdrivers, set the cover aside.
- Inspect existing hose and fittings: look for cracks, oil pooling, brittle or collapsed sections, and check the oil separator/PCV for sludge.
- Remove clamps:
- For worm-drive clamps use a screwdriver or nut driver; turn counterclockwise to loosen enough to slide back.
- For spring clamps use hose clamp pliers: squeeze, move clamp back, and hold it open while you pull the hose off.
- Remove the hose:
- Twist and pull by hand. If stuck, use a pick to break the seal at the spigot and a utility knife to carefully cut the hose lengthwise if necessary (avoid cutting spigots or mating surfaces).
- Catch any oil in the drip tray and wipe surfaces with a rag.
- Inspect and clean mating surfaces:
- Clean the spigot and valve cover/grommet area with a rag and a little degreaser if needed. Check grommet condition—replace if cracked or loose.
- Fit the new hose:
- Compare new hose length and bends to the old one; trim only if necessary using a sharp knife, square cut.
- Slide clamps onto the hose before fitting to spigots.
- Push the hose fully onto both spigots until it seats. Ensure no kinks and the hose follows the same safe routing away from hot/rotating parts.
- Position clamps over the hose bead and tighten:
- Worm clamps: tighten until snug — don’t over-tighten and deform the hose or strip the screw. Tighten until the clamp is secure and the hose cannot be pushed off; a snug feel is sufficient.
- Spring clamps: release pliers once clamp is correctly seated.
- Reinstall any covers and reconnect battery if disconnected.
- Start engine and inspect:
- Look for oil weep, listen for vacuum leaks (hissing), and check idle. After a short run, re-check clamp tightness and hose position.
- Dispose of used hose and oil-contaminated rags responsibly.

- How to use the tools safely and effectively (quick tips)
- Use the correct socket size to avoid rounding bolt heads and apply steady force; if a fastener is stubborn, apply penetrating oil and wait before forcing.
- Keep screwdrivers square to the screw to avoid cam-out and slipping.
- When using a knife, cut away from your body and stow blade when not in use.
- With pliers and clamp tools, keep a firm grip and control spring clamps when they release to avoid pinching fingers.
- Clean hands and tools frequently; oil makes tools slippery and dangerous.

- Common problems and quick troubleshooting
- Hose comes off after driving: clamp not tight enough or wrong clamp type—switch to a proper worm-drive clamp and ensure hose seat depth.
- Persistent oil smell or smoke after replacement: oil separator/PCV may be clogged—replace separator assembly.
- Crankcase pressure returns quickly: check for other cracked hoses or a failing turbo oil seal or head gasket; if only the breather path was faulty, replacing hose and separator usually fixes it.

- Parts source and selection guidance
- Use OEM part numbers where possible (Toyota dealer or reputable online parts supplier) for fit and correct material.
- If buying aftermarket hose, choose high-temp silicone with the correct inside diameter (ID) and length, rated for oil exposure.
- Replace small items like clamps and grommets rather than reusing corroded or deformed originals.

- Final check
- After a day’s driving check again for leaks, hose movement, or oil pooling. Re-tighten clamps if needed.


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