Tools required
- Serpentine/belt tool set or long 3/2/4-foot breaker bar (3/8" or 1/2" drive depending on tensioner), or a long ratchet with appropriate adapter.
- Sockets and wrenches: commonly 12–19 mm set; 14 mm and 17 mm often used on Toyotas (verify on your engine).
- 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet and extensions.
- Torque wrench (for any pulley/tensioner bolts you remove).
- Flat screwdriver or small pry bar.
- Gloves, safety glasses.
- Pen and phone/camera (to record belt routing).
- Replacement parts: correct length serpentine belt for your specific 1HD-FT year/vehicle, and optionally a new belt tensioner and idler pulley(s) if they show wear.

Safety precautions (read and follow)
- Work on a flat, level surface; set parking brake and chock wheels.
- Engine cold. Hot pulleys/fan = burn hazard.
- Disconnect the battery if you will be removing alternator wires or if there’s any risk of accidental cranking.
- Never put hands between belt and running pulleys. After installation, run engine only briefly and from a safe distance while observing.
- Use eye protection and gloves; support any removed components securely.
- If you must remove the mechanical fan or fan clutch, follow correct removal procedures and torque specs; this can be hazardous if done incorrectly.

Step-by-step replacement (typical procedure for Toyota 1HD-FT accessory drive)
1. Preparation
- Park, chock wheels, set parking brake, engine cold.
- Open hood. Locate the belt routing diagram — often on underside of hood or near the radiator. If there isn’t one, take clear photos of the belt routing from multiple angles or sketch it.
- Inspect belt for cracks, glazing, missing ribs. Inspect pulleys for play, roughness or wobble.

2. Access
- Remove any obstructing covers or the upper part of the fan shroud if it blocks access to the belt/tensioner. On some 1HD installations you may have good access without removing the fan; if the fan blocks access, remove shroud rather than fan if possible.
- If you must remove the mechanical fan, follow proper procedure (support fan clutch, remove nut), but only if comfortable; otherwise use more leverage on the tensioner tool.

3. Identify tensioner and routing
- Find the automatic belt tensioner — typically a spring-loaded pulley mounted on an arm. Identify the square drive or hex head where a breaker bar or belt tool fits.
- Confirm the routing diagram or your photos before removing the belt.

4. Relieve tension and remove old belt
- Fit your breaker bar/ratchet or belt tool into the tensioner drive. Most Toyota tensioners are rotated in one direction to relieve tension — usually rotate the tensioner AWAY from the belt path (often clockwise, but verify visually; do not force).
- Hold the tensioner in the released position and slip the belt off the easiest/nearest pulley (usually the smallest accessory like the alternator or idler).
- Slowly release the tensioner back to its resting position.
- Remove the belt from the rest of the pulleys and take it out.

5. Inspect components
- Spin idler and tensioner pulleys by hand. Listen for roughness; check for side play. Replace any pulley with noise, roughness, or play.
- Check belt alignment of all pulleys and condition of mounting bolts. Replace water-pump/AC/compressor seals if leaking.

6. Fit the new belt
- Compare old and new belt length and rib count to ensure correct part.
- Route the new belt around all pulleys following the diagram/photos, leaving the easiest-to-remove pulley (normally the tensioner pulley) for last.
- Pull the tensioner with the breaker bar/belt tool again, slip the belt over the final pulley, then slowly release the tensioner so it applies tension to the belt. Ensure the belt seats fully into all pulley grooves.

7. Check alignment and tension
- Visually confirm the belt is fully seated in each groove and that ribs are aligned.
- If you removed a tensioner or any bolts, torque those to OEM specs (consult factory manual for exact torque values).
- Rotate the crankshaft pulley by hand two full revolutions (using breaker bar on crank bolt) to verify no interference and that the belt remains seated.

8. Start and observe
- Reconnect battery if disconnected.
- Start engine and observe (from a safe distance). Watch belt tracking, listen for squeal or abnormal noises, and check for wobble on pulleys.
- Shut engine off and recheck bolt tightness and routing after a short test run.

How the tensioner tool is used (details)
- Use a long breaker bar or a dedicated serpentine tool to gain leverage on the tensioner. Insert the tool into the tensioner’s square recess or onto its hex head.
- Pull firmly in the direction needed to relieve belt tension. Hold the tensioner back while you remove/install the belt. Release slowly — do not let the tensioner snap back uncontrolled.
- If the tensioner has a retaining pin hole, you can install a retention pin (if provided) to hold it in the released position while working.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Wrong belt routing: Always use the routing diagram or photos you took. Wrong routing can damage accessories immediately.
- Using wrong belt size/type: Confirm OEM or equivalent belt spec (rib count and length) for your exact vehicle year and accessory layout.
- Forcing the tensioner in the wrong direction: Verify rotation direction before using force. Forcing can damage the tensioner.
- Reusing an old belt: Old belts may look OK but have internal damage; replace with a new belt.
- Ignoring bad pulleys/tensioner: A new belt on worn pulleys/tensioner will fail quickly. Replace noisy or loose pulleys and any tensioner older than ~80–100k km or showing wear.
- Not checking alignment/torque: Misaligned pulleys or loose pulley bolts cause premature wear or failure.
- Working with engine hot or fan unsecured: Burns and injury risk.

Replacement parts recommended
- OEM or quality aftermarket serpentine belt sized for your 1HD-FT application (match exact vehicle/year and accessory layout).
- Tensioner assembly (recommended if noisy, has significant travel, or is original age).
- Idler pulley(s) if noisy or worn.
- If worn: drive belt tensioner bracket or bolts (replace any stripped or heavily corroded bolts).

Final checks
- After 24–48 hours of driving, recheck belt tension and pulley bolts.
- Keep an eye (and ear) for squeaks or mis-tracking in the first few hundred miles.

Done.
rteeqp73

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