1) Symptoms and purpose (quick): worn/loose timing belt causes cam/crank phase drift → poor run, loss of power, hard start, noise, or catastrophic valve-piston contact on interference engines. Replacing the belt + tensioner/idlers restores fixed mechanical phase relationship between crank and cam(s) so valves open/close at the correct piston positions.

2) Safety & prep: disconnect battery, raise and support vehicle if needed, secure engine support if an engine mount must be removed. Use proper tools, service manual for lock pins/torques, and new parts (belt, tensioner, idlers, water pump and seals as recommended). Theory: an unsupported or mis-handled engine lets components move and ruins timing alignment or causes injury.

3) Establish static reference (set engine to TDC for cylinder 1 compression stroke): rotate the crank to bring piston 1 to Top Dead Center on its compression stroke and align crank timing mark with its reference. Verify cams/injection drive are on their reference marks if visible. Theory: timing is a phase relationship — you must start from a known, repeatable reference (TDC) so cam and crank are re-phased correctly.

4) Lock or note cam/crank/injection pump positions: use factory locking pins or clearly mark the belt teeth and sprocket positions before removal. If the injection pump is driven by the belt, lock it or mark its position too. Theory: locking prevents unwinding and preserves the initial phase while components are loosened; marks allow correct reassembly when locks aren’t usable.

5) Relieve belt tension and remove the old belt: release the tensioner (hydraulic or spring), remove belt. Inspect sprockets, tensioner, idlers, seals, and water pump for wear. Theory: removing the old belt allows component replacement and inspection; worn tensioner/idlers allow belt slip and phase error, and damaged sprockets destroy belt teeth engagement.

6) Replace wear parts: install new tensioner (reset hydraulic preload if applicable), new idlers, water pump and crank/cam seals as needed. Torque bolts to factory spec. Theory: tensioners provide correct preload and dynamic damping; hydraulic or spring mechanisms maintain constant tension against tooth load and reduce timing error due to belt stretch. Replacing the water pump and seals avoids future removal and contamination/failure that can ruin a new belt.

7) Fit the new belt in the correct routing, maintaining reference marks: route belt so that the loaded span (between crank and nearest cam on these engines) has minimal slack and the slack is on the side of the belt that will be tensioned by the tensioner when released. With cam and crank at their marks and injection pump positioned, fit the belt teeth fully engaged on all sprockets. Theory: correct tooth engagement and elimination of slack on the driven side keeps the instantaneous phase constant; slack that is on the wrong span causes the belt to jump teeth under load and changes valve timing.

8) Apply tension correctly: set the tensioner per the manual (preload, then release to specified position or use a tension gauge if required). If it’s a manual tensioner, pull to the specified deflection. Theory: proper tension prevents tooth jump and controls dynamic damping. Over-tension increases bearing load and breakage risk; under-tension allows phase slip.

9) Rotate the engine by hand twice and recheck marks: turn crank clockwise two full turns to seat the belt, then return to TDC and re-verify all timing marks/locks are exactly aligned. Also re-check valve clearances if required by procedure. Theory: rotation under load seats the belt teeth under proper tension and reveals any mis-phasing or interference before starting. Two revolutions ensure the whole train passes through all positions.

10) Reassemble and test run: reinstall covers, accessories and mounts, reconnect battery, start engine and listen for abnormal noise. Confirm smooth idle, normal cold/hot start, and steady injection/turbo response. Recheck for leaks (water pump/seals). Theory: running the engine verifies dynamic timing under combustion loads; symptoms that prompted replacement should be resolved because the camshaft opening events and crank/piston position are restored.

How the repair fixes faults (summary):
- Replaces degraded timing element: a new belt removes tooth wear and stretch that cause cam/crank phase drift.
- Restores correct phase: aligning marks and fitting a new belt restores valve timing so combustion events happen at the correct piston positions, restoring compression, power and starting.
- Controls dynamic behavior: new tensioner/idlers maintain correct tension under load and damping of transient loads, preventing tooth skip and noise.
- Prevents collateral failure: replacing water pump/seals and worn sprockets reduces the chance of future belt contamination or mechanical damage which would otherwise rapidly reintroduce faults.

Critical cautions (brief):
- Engines of this family can be interference type — mis-timing can bend valves and cause major engine damage. Do not crank/run until marks and tension are verified.
- Use factory lock tools/procedures and torque specs. Hydraulic tensioners must be set/reset per manual.
- If the injection pump is belt-driven, its timing must be preserved or reset to specification.

Done.
rteeqp73

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