- Safety first
- Safety glasses, gloves, long sleeves: protect eyes/hands from fluids, metal shards.
- Jack stands rated for vehicle weight, wheel chocks: never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Fire extinguisher nearby: diesel and brake fluids are flammable risks.

- Essential documentation
- Factory service manual (Toyota repair manual for your 1HD-FT chassis/year): contains model-specific removal order, torque specs, clearances, shift-mechanism diagrams and transmission-identification info. You need it — do not guess torque or clearances.

- Basic tools (you said you have basic tools — here are detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Socket set (metric, 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drive): sockets attach to ratchets to turn fasteners. Use the correct size and drive for torque; flaky fit rounds bolts. Use extensions to reach recessed bolts; use impact-rated sockets only with impacts.
- Ratchets (1/4", 3/8", 1/2"): hand-turn fasteners. Use longer-handled ratchets for leverage; apply steady force, pull—avoid sudden jerks.
- Combination wrench set (metric): for bolts where a socket won't fit. Use the box end for more torque; keep wrench aligned to avoid rounding.
- Torque wrench (click-type, 3/8" or 1/2" drive): sets bolts to specified torque. Important for bellhousing, flywheel, clutch and axle fasteners. Use it to tighten bolts to manufacturer torque in the sequence specified.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips): pry and remove clips, covers. Use the right tip size to avoid stripping screws.
- Pliers (slip-joint, needle-nose): hold and remove cotter pins, clips, hoses. Grip gently on soft parts, firm on hardened parts.
- Hammer (ball-peen) and dead-blow hammer: for persuading stuck parts free. Use dead-blow to avoid marring components.
- Punch and drift set: to remove pins, seals and stubborn components with controlled force.
- Pry bars (various lengths): separate mating parts (transmission from engine). Pry only on designated spots; excessive force can damage housings.
- Breaker bar (long-handled): for loosening tight bolts using steady force. Use before the torque wrench so you don’t exceed its range.
- Drain pans and fluid pump: catch and transfer gearbox fluid safely.
- Wire brush, rags, brake cleaner: clean mating surfaces and remove old gasket material before reassembly.

- Recommended extra/specialized tools (why they’re required and how to use them)
- Transmission jack or a low-profile floor jack with wood blocks: supports and lowers the transmission safely. A transmission is heavy and awkward; a dedicated trans jack centers under the case and lets you lift/lower while aligning to engine. Without one you risk injury and component damage.
- Engine support bar or engine hoist (if transmission removal requires supporting the engine): some vehicles use engine mounts that must be relieved when the trans is dropped. Use the support to hold engine position while you remove bellhousing bolts.
- Clutch alignment tool (plastic or metal): aligns clutch disc to pilot bearing when installing pressure plate and clutch; if the disc is misaligned you cannot mate the transmission input shaft. Tool slides into pilot bearing and holds disc centered while tightening pressure plate bolts.
- Pilot bearing/bushing puller and installer: removes/installs the pilot bearing in crankshaft nose without damage. If the bearing is seized, you’ll need a puller.
- Snap ring pliers: remove/install circlips inside the trans that retain bearings or shafts.
- Bearing puller / slide hammer and bearing installer / hydraulic press: to remove and install bearings on shafts and housings. Many transmission bearings are pressed on; improvised hammering risks damage.
- Seal driver set or socket set sized to seals: to install new input/output seals squarely without deforming them.
- Dial indicator and magnetic base (for endplay, gear backlash checks): measures shafts and gear clearances to factory spec. Required when rebuilding to determine if bearings or shims need replacement.
- Feeler gauges and straight edge: measure clearances, check gear teeth contact patterns, clutch runout.
- Puller set (for gears, synchronizers): some gears/synchros slip on splines and require pullers to remove.
- Impact wrench (air or electric) — optional but speeds removal of stubborn bolts (starter, driveshaft, etc.). Use care; don’t use for final torque.

- Parts you will commonly need to replace (what, why, and when)
- Clutch kit (clutch disc, pressure plate, release/throwout bearing, pilot bearing, clutch alignment tool): required if clutch slipping, chatter, or heavy wear found. Always replace the release bearing and pilot bearing when dropping the transmission.
- Flywheel (resurface or replace if scored) or replace with new if cracked/warped: runout or hot spots cause chatter and premature clutch wear.
- Input shaft bearing and countershaft bearings: if noisy, rough or have excessive play; replace to stop whining and prevent gear damage.
- Synchro rings (synchronizers): if grinding on gear shifts, symptomatic of worn synchros; replace during rebuild for smooth shifting.
- Gear sets/individual gears (rare unless scored or teeth damaged): replace when you find broken or heavily pitted teeth.
- Shift forks and rails: replace if bent, worn, or grooves worn where forks engage collar.
- Seals and gaskets (input/output seals, bearing retainer gaskets, oil pan gasket if applicable): always replace when opening the case to prevent leaks.
- Transmission mounts and crossmember bushings: any cracked or collapsed mounts will cause misalignment and shift problems.
- Speedometer drive/ohc sensor (if applicable) and linkage parts: replace if broken or worn causing improper speed readings or gear selection issues.
- Hardware kit (fresh bolts, dowels, lock washers): damaged or stretched bolts must be replaced; some bolts are torque-to-yield and should not be reused.
- Fluid (correct grade manual transmission oil): drain and refill with manufacturer spec fluid after reassembly.

- High-level repair workflow (for a beginner; each bullet includes the essential tool usage and safety notes)
- Preliminary diagnosis and preparation
- Use road test and stationary checks to identify symptoms (noise, grinding, slipping, leaks).
- Consult service manual for model-specific checks and transmission identification.
- Tools: OBD or fault scanner (if available), inspection light, pry bar for visual check.
- Vehicle setup and safety
- Park on level surface, chock wheels, disconnect battery negative.
- Raise vehicle with floor jack and support on jack stands rated for weight. Place jack stands under manufacturer-specified lift points.
- Tools: jack, jack stands, wheel chocks.
- Drain transmission fluid
- Place drain pan under trans, remove drain/fill plugs per manual, let fluid drain fully.
- Tools: socket set, drain pan, gloves, rags.
- Remove external components to access transmission
- Remove battery tray, air intake if obstructing, starter motor (support it), exhaust sections or heat shields as required, driveshaft/prop shaft (mark orientation for reinstallation), shift linkage/cables, speedo cable or sensor wiring, ground wires and sensors on trans.
- Tools: socket set, wrenches, screwdrivers, penetrating oil for stuck bolts, marker for driveshaft orientation.
- Support engine/transmission and remove mounting hardware
- Support engine with engine support bar or hoist if transmission removal removes engine mounts. Place transmission jack under the trans and raise to support weight.
- Unbolt transmission crossmember and mounts.
- Tools: transmission jack, engine support, breaker bar.
- Disconnect clutch linkage/hydraulics
- If hydraulic clutch, disconnect slave cylinder (or release hydraulics) and secure it so it is not stressed; do NOT open hydraulic lines unless replacing fluid/bleeding. If cable, unclip and remove.
- Tools: pliers, line wrench for hydraulic fittings.
- Unbolt bellhousing from engine
- Remove bellhousing bolts in the pattern/direction recommended by manual. Keep track of bolt lengths and positions (photo or labeled tray).
- Tools: socket set, extensions, universal joints.
- Lower transmission and separate from engine
- Slide transmission back slowly to clear input shaft from clutch. If it sticks, check for any remaining bolts, use light prying only on designated points and support fully on trans jack. Lower transmission clear of engine.
- Tools: transmission jack, pry bar (careful), dead-blow hammer.
- Inspect clutch and bellhousing
- Inspect clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel surface, pilot bearing, release bearing for wear/damage. Replace clutch kit if any significant wear, heat spots, or contamination seen.
- Clean bellhousing and check for metal debris (indicates bearing failure).
- Tools: inspection light, straight edge, feeler gauges.
- Disassemble transmission (if rebuilding or replacing internal parts)
- Remove shift forks, synchronizers, shafts and bearings following manual. Keep parts organized and note orientation and order.
- Use snap ring pliers to remove circlips; use bearing puller/press where necessary. Check bearings, synchros, gears for wear.
- Measure tolerances (endplay, backlash) with dial indicator and replace bearings/synchros/gears as needed to meet manual specs.
- Tools: snap ring pliers, bearing puller/press, dial indicator, feeler gauges, punch and drift, seal driver.
- Replace worn parts
- Install new bearings, seals, synchros, fork(s) as required. Use press or installer tools to seat bearings and seals squarely. Replace all external seals and gaskets.
- Reassemble shafts, gears and shift mechanism exactly as manual shows.
- Tools: bearing installer, hydraulic press (if required), seal drivers, snap ring pliers, torque wrench for any fasteners specified.
- Reinstall transmission into vehicle
- Use clutch alignment tool to keep disc aligned to pilot bearing; carefully guide input shaft into clutch splines while transmission jack keeps trans level. Reinstall bellhousing bolts and torque to spec in sequence.
- Reinstall crossmember, mounts, starter, driveshaft, exhaust sections, linkages, sensors. Reconnect hydraulic lines and bleed clutch if hydraulic.
- Tools: transmission jack, torque wrench, clutch alignment tool, sockets/wrenches.
- Fill with correct transmission fluid and test
- Fill to specified level with manufacturer-recommended oil. Lower vehicle, reconnect battery, start engine and test clutch engagement and gear selection at idle while vehicle still supported. Road test to confirm fix and check for leaks or noises.
- Tools: fluid pump, correct fluid, torque wrench for final checks.

- Common failure signs and parts associated
- Whining or growling at all speeds: likely worn input/countershaft bearings; replace bearings.
- Grinding when shifting into 2nd/3rd/4th: worn synchros or shift forks; replace synchros/linear parts.
- Clutch slipping under load but pedal feels normal: worn clutch disc or contaminated clutch surface; replace clutch kit and resurface or replace flywheel if needed.
- Clutch engagement points inconsistent or noisy: worn release bearing or pilot bearing; replace those parts.
- Fluid leaks from output/input seals: replace seals and inspect mating surfaces.
- Shifting difficult or false engages: bent shift fork, worn shift rail bushings or damaged detent springs; replace as needed.

- Tips for a beginner to avoid common mistakes
- Photograph and label every connector, bolt and component before removal to aid reassembly.
- Do not reuse single-use bolts (consult manual). Replace any damaged/rounded hardware.
- Always use a torque wrench for critical fasteners (bellhousing, flywheel, clutch cover).
- If you don’t have a press or bearing tools, don’t attempt to hammer bearings on — you’ll ruin them. Rent tools or have a machine shop press bearings.
- If you cannot measure clearances (dial indicator, feeler gauges) follow manual tolerances — if you don’t have the tools, consider a professional rebuild.
- Replace fluids and seals when you open the unit — reused seals usually leak.

- When to consider full replacement or professional help
- If multiple internal components are badly worn or gears are damaged, a full replacement or a professional rebuild is often more cost-effective.
- If you lack a transmission jack, bearing press, dial indicator or engine support bar, or if diagnosing internal clearances is beyond your tools/comfort level, hire a shop.
- Reassembly with incorrect clearances or torque can cause catastrophic failure—if uncertain, get professional help.

- Final note (concise)
- Follow the Toyota service manual for your exact 1HD-FT vehicle for bolt patterns, torque specs, clearances and sequence. Use correct specialty tools for pressed bearings and alignment. Replace clutch and common wear items when dropping the trans to avoid repeat work.
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