What the tensioner pulley does — simple theory
- The tensioner pulley is an automatic spring-loaded arm with a pulley that keeps the accessory (serpentine) belt at the correct tension. Think of it like a musician’s finger pressing on a guitar string to keep it taut. Proper tension prevents slipping, ensures accessories (alternator, A/C compressor, power steering pump, water pump where driven) turn correctly, and damps vibrations.
- The tensioner contains: a spring (provides force), a damper (controls movement so it doesn’t flutter), a pivot/arm (holds the pulley), the pulley with a sealed bearing (contacts the belt), and a mounting boss/bolt that secures the assembly to the engine bracket.
- Why a repair is needed: springs fatigue, bearings wear, seals fail and oil gets in, or the pulley face gets scored. That leads to noise, belt slip, belt wear, poor charging, loss of A/C or power steering assist, and possibly a thrown belt causing engine overheating or loss of critical systems.

Main components — what each looks like and does
- Accessory (serpentine) belt: long rubber belt with ribs on the inside. Transfers engine crank rotation to accessories. If glazed, cracked, or oil‑soaked it must be replaced.
- Tensioner arm: metal arm that pivots and pushes the pulley against the belt.
- Tensioner spring/damper (inside housing): provides the constant force and smooths movement.
- Pulley: grooved/ribbed wheel that contacts the belt. Contains a sealed ball bearing so it spins freely.
- Bearing: inside the pulley; when it’s noisy or has play the pulley must be replaced.
- Mounting bolt(s)/bracket: fasten the tensioner to the engine. Often one pivot bolt and one locating bolt.
- Idler pulleys/other pulleys: fixed pulleys that just route the belt — also check these.
- Fasteners/washers/spacers: keep correct pulley spacing/alignment.

Symptoms of a failing tensioner system
- Squeal or chirp at start or under load (bearing or low tension).
- Belt slip or glazing (shiny black on ribs).
- Visible wobble/play in pulley.
- Intermittent charging system faults (battery light).
- A/C or power steering noise/failure.
- Belt lifts off pulleys, mis-tracks, or frays.

Tools and supplies you’ll need
- New tensioner assembly (or new pulley and/or spring if sold separately) and new belt (if worn).
- Socket set (commonly 10–19 mm), ratchet, long breaker bar or a serpentine belt tool.
- Torque wrench (use factory torque spec — see service manual).
- Penetrating oil, rags, gloves, safety glasses.
- Jack/stand only if needed for access; wheel chocks.
- Chalk/marker (to mark belt routing) and camera/phone to photograph routing.

Preparation & safety (don’t skip)
- Engine off, key out, parking brake on, wheels chocked. Let engine cool if recently run.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if you will be working in tight spaces where tools could short.
- Photograph or draw the belt routing. Many Land Cruisers also have a belt routing decal — use it.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep fingers clear when you later start the engine to check.

Step-by-step replacement (beginner-friendly)
1. Locate the tensioner and identify the release point
- The tensioner is the spring-loaded pulley on the belt path. It usually has a square or hex boss for a breaker bar or a bolt head for a socket.
2. Relieve belt tension and remove the belt
- Place a breaker bar or belt-tool on the tensioner boss and rotate the arm in the direction that reduces tension (this direction pulls the pulley toward the engine/block). Hold it there, slip the belt off one accessory (usually the easiest one like the alternator) and then slowly release the tensioner.
- If the tensioner has a square hole, use the correct size tool or a proper serpentine tool to avoid rounding it.
3. Remove the tensioner assembly
- Support the tensioner arm while you remove its mounting bolts. There may be one pivot bolt and one locating bolt. Keep track of any spacers or washers.
- Inspect the tensioner pulley face, bearing, and spring housing. Check idler pulleys and all accessory pulleys for play or roughness.
4. Inspect belt and pulleys
- Replace the belt if it’s cracked, glazed, or excessively worn. Rotate idler pulleys by hand — they should spin smoothly and quietly with no play.
5. Install the new tensioner
- Position the new tensioner in the correct orientation and install any spacers/washers as originally fitted. Start all bolts by hand.
- Torque fasteners to Toyota’s specified torque (consult the factory service manual for exact numbers). If you don’t have the manual, torque moderately tight and confirm specs before final runs — over- or under-torquing can damage the boss or allow movement.
6. Refit the belt
- Route the belt exactly as labeled in the routing diagram. Ensure all ribs seat into pulley grooves.
- Rotate the tensioner again to allow the belt to slip over the final pulley, then slowly release the tensioner so it applies preload.
7. Final checks
- Double-check pulley alignment and that the belt sits correctly on every pulley.
- Reconnect battery if you disconnected it.
- Start the engine and observe: the belt should run smoothly without chirps, the tensioner arm should not oscillate excessively, and the belt should track centered. Listen for bearing noise.
- After a short run, recheck bolt tightness and belt seating.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them
- Using wrong direction/too much force when rotating the tensioner: use the correct tool and controlled pressure.
- Not replacing an old glazed belt at the same time: new tensioner + old belt often leads to rework.
- Misrouting the belt: always photograph or use the vehicle’s routing label.
- Reusing damaged spacers/washers or not torquing bolts to spec: can misalign the pulley or allow the tensioner to walk.
- Not checking other pulleys: a bad idler pulley can ruin a new belt/tensioner quickly.

What can go wrong later (and prevention)
- Spring fatigue returns over many km — replace if tension drops.
- Bearing failure from contamination (oil/engine coolant) — fix leaks first.
- Pulley surface damage from debris — keep engine bay clean.
- Wrong part fitment — buy the correct OEM or high-quality aftermarket tensioner matched to the 1HD‑FT.

Quick troubleshooting guide
- Squeal at cold start only: often belt glaze or light slip; try new belt or dressing (temporary); likely replace belt and tensioner if persistent.
- Constant squeal: check pulley bearing; spin by hand — if rough, replace pulley/tensioner.
- Belt mis-tracking: check pulley alignment and spacer placement; replace warped pulley.
- Intermittent battery light/charging drop: slipping belt or failed tensioner — inspect and replace.

Final notes (practical tips)
- Always replace the belt when replacing the tensioner if the belt shows wear — it’s cheap insurance.
- Keep the old tensioner and part numbers when buying the new one to ensure correct fitment (Toyota part numbers are helpful).
- If unsure of torque values, look up the factory service manual for the 1HD‑FT (model/year) before final tightening.

Done.
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