- Safety first
- Park on a flat, level surface and chock rear wheels.
- Use a quality floor jack and rated jack stands — never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves.

- Tools — what they are and how to use each (basic tools first, then optional/professional)
- Floor jack
- Description: hydraulic tool to lift the car.
- Use: place under manufacturer jacking point, pump to lift, secure with jack stands before working under car.
- Why: needed to remove wheels or inspect suspension; do not rely on jack only.
- Jack stands
- Description: mechanical stands rated for vehicle weight.
- Use: lower vehicle onto stands after lifting; position under recommended support points.
- Why: safety while you work.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: blocks (rubber/wood) placed behind wheels.
- Use: place behind rear wheels to stop vehicle rolling.
- Why: prevents vehicle movement during checks.
- Torque wrench
- Description: adjustable wrench that clicks at set torque.
- Use: tighten wheel nuts and suspension fasteners to specified torque.
- Why: necessary to properly secure components and avoid over/under-tightening.
- 3/8" or 1/2" socket/wrench set and open-end wrenches
- Description: standard hand tools for nuts and bolts.
- Use: remove wheels, loosen/tighten tie rod locknuts, control arm bolts, etc.
- Why: basic fastening operations.
- Tape measure (metric and imperial markings)
- Description: retractable measuring tape.
- Use: measure toe distances across wheel rims or between toe plates and hub centerline.
- Why: basic method to measure toe without special gear.
- Straightedge (metal ruler or long level) and carpenter’s level
- Description: firm straight bar or long spirit level.
- Use: check rim runout, compare reference straightness for camber checks if using simple methods.
- Why: helps detect bent rims or runout that spoil alignment.
- String and 4 small stakes or taped-on anchors (string method)
- Description: thin strong string and means to anchor around all four wheels.
- Use: run string parallel to car body to create reference lines for toe/thrust angle.
- Why: cheapest way to measure basic toe and thrust angle accurately enough for a beginner.
- Magnetic angle finder / digital inclinometer / camber gauge
- Description: magnetic flat tool that measures angle relative to vertical/horizontal. Digital versions show degrees to 0.1°.
- Use: attach to wheel rim or brake rotor face to read camber (wheel tilt). Zero off on vertical reference first if required.
- Why: camber and caster are measured in degrees; an inclinometer is inexpensive and accurate enough for DIY.
- Plumb bob or hanging weight with string
- Description: a weight on string that finds true vertical.
- Use: find the centerline of the hub or detect steering axis when doing caster work.
- Why: used in some DIY caster measurement methods.
- Tie-rod spanner or adjustable wrench and locking pliers
- Description: wrench sized to jam nut on tie rod end.
- Use: loosen jam nut, turn tie-rod inner or outer end to change toe, then retighten jam nut.
- Why: tie-rods are the normal adjustment points for toe.
- Wheel alignment toe plates (optional inexpensive set) or “shoebox” plates
- Description: flat plates that sit against rim and have measuring scales or holes for measuring string distance.
- Use: reduce measurement variability vs. tape measure; slide under tire and measure across plates.
- Why: makes toe measurement easier and more repeatable than measuring to caliper edges.
- Steering wheel centering tool or tape marks on wheel
- Description: marker or tool to keep the steering wheel centered when adjusting toe.
- Use: lock steering wheel center and count steering wheel turns as needed.
- Why: prevents introducing steering-wheel off-center after alignment.
- Chalk or permanent marker
- Description: marks on tire sidewall or hub for repeat measurements.
- Use: mark positions for gauge or measuring points; mark centerline of rim.
- Why: consistent reference points improve accuracy.
- Tire pressure gauge
- Description: handheld gauge for air pressure.
- Use: set tire pressures to manufacturer spec.
- Why: tire pressure affects alignment feel and ride height slightly; must be consistent.
- Brake cleaner / degreaser (for mounting inclinometer)
- Description: solvent to clean rotor or rim area.
- Use: remove grease so magnetic gauge sits flat.
- Why: ensures accurate readings.
- Optional pro/upgrade tools and why you might need them
- Turn plates (low-friction plates under front wheels)
- Description: plates that allow front wheels to rotate freely while measuring caster.
- Why: required for accurate caster measurement/adjustment and to relieve steering binding; useful if doing caster adjustments.
- Professional alignment machine / laser alignment kit
- Description: shop equipment that reads all four wheels to 0.01° and +/- mm.
- Why: required for final, precise alignment to factory specs; some adjustments (thrust angle corrections) are best done with this.
- Ball joint separator / pickle fork, press, and pullers
- Description: tools to remove pressed-in suspension components.
- Why: required if parts need replacement (ball joints, control arm bushings).
- Camber/caster bolts or shims (specific to vehicle)
- Description: aftermarket adjustable bolts or factory shims used to alter camber/caster.
- Why: used where factory doesn’t provide range to correct camber/caster; required if out of spec and no other adjustment points.

- Preparation before measuring
- Check tires for even pressure and proper tread; inflate to spec.
- Inspect tires for abnormal wear (feathering, cupping, inner/outer wear) and sidewall damage.
- Remove hubcaps or wheel covers; clean wheel rims where gauges will sit.
- Make sure suspension is in normal position (no heavy load on one side); driver or equivalent weight in driver seat sometimes recommended for spec checks — consult vehicle manual if available.
- Check and fix obvious steering/suspension problems first: loose tie-rod ends, worn ball joints, torn boots, loose control-arm bolts, loose subframe mounts, or bent parts. Alignment will not hold if these parts are worn.

- Basic checks you can do at home (what they measure and how to do them)
- Toe — tendency of wheels to point inward/outward (affects tire wear and straight-line stability)
- Use string method:
- Place two strings along each side of the vehicle parallel to car centerline: anchor string to front and rear bumper points and make strings parallel by equal measurements from a car reference (doorsill or chassis) or use two parallel poles.
- Measure distance from string to front and rear edge of right front rim (same height on rim centerline) and do the same on left front rim.
- Toe is front measurement minus rear measurement per wheel pair. Positive means toe-in, negative toe-out.
- Use tape-measure method:
- Measure between front edges of front pair of rims and between rear edges; difference divided by wheel diameter gives degrees approximate. Simpler: compare front vs rear distances for pair.
- How to use tools: tape measure and chalk for marks; toe plates simplify this by offering fixed surfaces to measure across.
- What to look for: toe beyond factory spec (usually small, around 0° to 0.2° toe-in per wheel) causes rapid inner or outer edge wear and wandering.
- Camber — wheel tilt in/out viewed from front
- Use digital inclinometer or camber gauge:
- Clean rim or rotor where gauge sits. Place gauge flat on rim face or rotor; zero if required on a true vertical reference.
- Read degrees; compare to factory spec (often between -1.0° and +1.0° depending on vehicle).
- How to use tools: magnetic gauges stick to rotor or rim; if using on rim edge, mark a flat area so repeated readings are consistent.
- What to look for: excessive negative camber (top of wheel tilted in) causes inner tire wear; positive camber causes outer wear.
- Caster — steering axis tilt forward/back (affects straight-line stability and steering return)
- Requires measuring change in camber as wheel is turned or a dedicated caster gauge:
- With an inclinometer attached to rim, center steering, note camber. Turn wheel 20°–30° left, note camber; turn 20°–30° right, note camber. Caster = (camber turned out - camber turned in) / 2 plus sign depending on method — many DIY guides show formula. A dedicated caster/camber gauge simplifies calculation.
- How to use tools: use turn plates or ensure wheels can be smoothly turned; use inclinometer accurately. Follow gauge instructions for angle used.
- What to look for: low caster leads to poor straight-line stability and poor return-to-center.
- Thrust angle — rear axle alignment relative to vehicle centerline
- Use string or tape-measure across rear wheels and compare the centerline to front wheel thrust line.
- How to use tools: same string baseline used for toe; measure diagonals and compare front vs rear thrust to check if rear axle is skewed.
- What to look for: if thrust is off, vehicle may track crooked even with front toe correct; often caused by bent rear axle, asymmetric suspension mounts, or worn bushings.

- How to adjust (common DIY adjustments)
- Toe adjustment (most common DIY adjustment)
- Locate inner or outer tie-rod where jam nut locks it.
- Loosen the jam nut, turn the adjuster (inner or outer tie rod) equally both sides — one turn usually equals small toe change.
- Keep steering wheel centered: lock steering wheel or mark center and count turns on steering wheel while adjusting.
- Re-measure toe after small adjustments until within desired spec.
- Tighten jam nuts to spec and torque wheels afterward.
- Camber adjustment (depends on vehicle design)
- Vehicles with cam bolts on strut or adjustable upper control arms:
- Loosen cam bolts and slide strut/arm to change camber; measure with inclinometer and tighten to spec.
- Vehicles without cam adjusters:
- May require aftermarket adjustable control arms, eccentric bolts, or shims under strut mounts or control arm bushings.
- How to use tools: use breaker bar and torque wrench to loosen/tighten; use camber gauge to iterate to spec.
- Caster adjustment
- Often tied to the same adjustments as camber (camber/caster bolts or adjustable control arms).
- Some vehicles require replacing control arm positions or using adjustable top mounts to change caster.
- Thrust angle and rear axle adjustments
- If rear is adjustable, use shims at rear axle mounts or adjust toe links where fitted.
- If not adjustable, bent components must be repaired or replaced.

- When parts replacement is required — symptoms, why, and which parts
- Symptoms indicating replacement needed
- Excessive play in steering wheel, clunking over bumps, steering not centering, very rapid or irregular tire wear, impossible to hold alignment after adjustments.
- Parts commonly needing replacement
- Tie-rod ends (outer/inner)
- Why: wear causes play and uncontrollable toe changes; replacement restores precise tie-rod length control.
- Ball joints and control arm bushings
- Why: wear allows uncontrolled movement of suspension geometry under load, changing camber/caster or causing noise.
- Struts/shocks and mounts
- Why: sagging or damaged struts change ride height and camber; worn mounts can allow misalignment.
- Wheel bearings and hub assemblies
- Why: excessive play or runout at hub affects measurement and handling.
- Steering rack/rack mounts
- Why: worn rack or loose mounts cause play and inaccurate steering inputs.
- Bent control arms or knuckles
- Why: previous impact (curb or accident) can bend components; must be replaced to restore correct geometry.
- Shims or adjustable camber bolts (if required)
- Why: some vehicles need shims to bring camber/caster into spec if original adjustment range is insufficient.
- How to confirm replacement necessity
- Jack up the wheel, wiggle wheel at 12/6 and 3/9 positions to check for play; inspect rubber boots, grease leakage, and excessive free play.
- If measurements jump or cannot be made repeatably, test for bent rim or hub runout using straightedge.

- Limits of DIY and when to go to a shop
- If you cannot get camber/caster within factory specs because there is no adjuster, you will need shims or adjustable arms — likely beyond typical DIY stock parts.
- If steering/suspension components are worn, bent, rusted solid, or require pressed-in parts (bushings/ball joints), a shop or specialty tools are recommended.
- If you want certified, precise alignment to factory spec (recommended after suspension replacement or if vehicle has uneven tire wear), use a professional alignment machine.

- Quick checklist to finish and verify
- Re-torque wheel nuts to spec after driving a short distance.
- Road test for steering pull, vibration, and steering wheel centering.
- Re-check toe after 50–100 km (30–60 miles) or one week of normal driving to confirm settings held.
- Monitor tire wear for next few thousand kilometers.

- Final notes specific to Toyota 1RZ / 1RZ‑E / 2RZ / 2RZ‑E vehicles
- Alignment principles are the same for these Toyota-powered vehicles as any other: toe is the easiest DIY adjustment; camber/caster capability depends on the suspension design of the specific chassis the engine is in.
- Many Toyota light trucks and vans that use R-series engines have tie-rod adjustments for toe; camber/caster may require cam bolts, shims, or adjustable arms depending on model/year.
- If you cannot find adjustment points on your particular model, the factory service manual for the exact vehicle model (not just engine) will show adjustment methods and specs — if you can’t access or interpret that, a shop alignment is the safer choice.

- Useful quick reference (DIY expectations)
- What you can do reliably at home: check and correct toe with string/tape/toe plates; measure camber roughly with an inclinometer; diagnose worn components.
- What usually requires shop or extra tools: accurate caster measurement/adjustment, complex rear thrust corrections, pressing out/in bushings/ball joints, and final precision alignment.

- Common replacement parts list for alignment-related fixes
- Outer and inner tie-rod ends
- Control arm bushings (front and rear where applicable)
- Ball joints (upper/lower)
- Struts / shock absorbers and mounts
- Camber/caster adjustment bolts or aftermarket adjustable arms
- Wheel hub/bearing assemblies
- Rear axle shims or replacement trailing arms (if rear thrust is off)

- No-nonsense closing
- Start by inspecting for worn parts and checking toe with the string or tape method. Adjust tie rods for toe if within reach. Use a digital inclinometer to check camber; if camber/caster are out and no shop tools/adjusters exist, expect to need shims or replacement adjustable parts or seek a shop alignment for precision.
rteeqp73

HIACE RZH10 1993 2RZ ENGINE RUNNING AT NARELLAN AUTO PARTS PLUS

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