Tools & consumables
- Basic metric hand tools: 8–19 mm sockets, extensions, ratchet, breaker bar, combination wrenches.
- Torque wrench (to spec).
- Transmission jack or floor jack + wood block and helper.
- Engine support bar or jack & wood block under oil pan to support engine.
- Seal puller or small pry bar and flat screwdriver (careful).
- Rear main seal installer / driver kit (correct OD driver for seal) or appropriate socket that matches seal outer diameter.
- Hammer / mallet.
- Flywheel / harmonic balancer puller (if needed).
- Snap-ring pliers (if applicable).
- Gasket scraper, cleaning solvent, shop rags.
- New rear main seal (OEM or high-quality aftermarket matched to 1RZ/2RZ family).
- Rear seal retainer gasket or RTV (per manual).
- New flywheel/drive plate bolts if manufacturer specifies single‑use; threadlocker as specified.
- Engine oil, oil filter, drain pan.
- Safety gear: eye protection, nitrile gloves, jack stands, wheel chocks.

Safety
- Work on level ground; chock wheels. Support vehicle with jack stands—never rely on a jack.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Support the engine before removing the transmission (engine mounts will be loosened/removed).
- Use transmission jack to lower gearbox safely—get help when needed.
- Avoid breathing solvent vapors; dispose of oil properly.

Overview / what you will do
- Remove transmission (manual or automatic) to access rear of engine.
- Remove flywheel/flexplate and rear seal housing or remove old press‑in seal.
- Clean surfaces and inspect crankshaft rear journal.
- Install new seal using a seal driver sized to the seal outer diameter so it seats evenly.
- Reassemble with new gaskets/bolts, torque to spec, refill fluids.

Step‑by‑step (typical procedure for 1RZ/1RZ‑E/2RZ/2RZ‑E)
1. Preparation
- Park, chock wheels, disconnect battery.
- Drain engine oil into pan; remove air intake where needed for access.

2. Remove components blocking transmission
- Remove starter, shift linkage, speedometer cable or sensor, exhaust pipe/accessory components as required.
- Disconnect clutch slave/master hydraulics or gearbox hydraulics (cap lines).
- Remove drive shafts (if front‑wheel drive) or propshaft/drive shaft (rear‑wheel drive) depending on vehicle model.
- Label wires and hoses for reassembly.

3. Support engine
- Place a jack with a wood block under the oil pan and/or use an engine support bar. Support securely so engine won’t drop once mounts are removed.

4. Remove transmission
- Remove gearbox mounting bolts and engine/transmission mounting bolts. Use a transmission jack to support and lower the transmission straight back to clear splines.
- Take note of alignment dowels; note orientation of transmission for reassembly.

5. Remove flywheel / flexplate
- Mark flywheel orientation relative to crank if desired.
- Remove flywheel/flexplate bolts (may require counterholding crank). Inspect flywheel/clutch for wear if clutch removed.
- Keep bolts in order if reusing (or replace as required).

6. Remove old rear main seal
- If there is a retainer plate: remove plate bolts, pry off plate and old gasket, then pry out old seal lip.
- If seal is press‑in directly: cut the seal lip and pry the metal outer with a seal puller or small pry tool. Take care not to score crankshaft surface or enlarge bore.
- Clean the seal bore in the block and retainer flange with solvent; remove all old gasket material.

7. Inspect
- Inspect the crankshaft rear journal and keyway for nicks, burrs or heavy wear. Light scratches can be smoothed with fine emery; deep grooves require crankshaft repair or replacement.
- Inspect pilot bore, throwout bearing, clutch components and flywheel surface for service needs.

8. Prepare new seal & retainer
- Compare new seal to old for correct size and orientation. The sealing lip faces the oil side (usually toward the crank/front of engine); the flat face or spring side faces outward toward the transmission.
- Lightly coat the seal lip with clean engine oil. Do NOT use grease that can swell rubber (avoid petroleum jelly that’s incompatible).

9. Install seal with driver
- Use a seal installer whose outside diameter matches the seal outer case. If using a socket, choose one that contacts the seal outer evenly across its face — do NOT press on the seal lip.
- Place driver over the seal, align squarely on crankshaft. Place a block or a second driver behind to ensure even seating.
- Tap the driver with a mallet evenly until the seal bottoms in the bore or is flush to the retainer surface. If the manual specifies a seating depth, achieve that depth.
- If a retainer plate is used, install new gasket/RTV and torque retainer bolts in a crisscross pattern to specified torque.

Tool use specifics:
- The installer spreads impact across the metal case; it prevents deforming the seal. If using a socket, place it on the seal outer case and strike evenly. Avoid direct hammer blows to the seal outer or lip.
- For seals with an inner spring, ensure spring remains oriented properly and not inverted.

10. Reassembly
- Reinstall flywheel/flexplate and torque bolts to factory spec (use proper pattern). Replace bolts if they are stretch/single‑use.
- Reinstall transmission aligning input shaft to pilot bushing/bearing; use transmission jack to lift straight and engage splines gently. Do not force—if it hangs, check alignment/dowel position.
- Reinstall all components in reverse order: starter, linkage, driveshafts, exhaust, etc.
- Refill engine oil and replace oil filter. Reconnect battery.

11. Test
- Start engine, check for oil leaks at rear seal and retainer. Run up to operating temperature and recheck torque on fasteners if specified by manual after first heat cycle.

Replacement parts & consumables recommended
- Rear main seal (correct part for 1RZ/1RZ‑E/2RZ/2RZ‑E; verify with VIN/engine code).
- Rear seal retainer gasket or high‑quality RTV gasket maker (per manual).
- Flywheel/flexplate bolts (replace if single‑use or damaged).
- Engine oil and oil filter.
- Optional: pilot bushing/pilot bearing, clutch inspection kit (if manual), throwout bearing.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Damaging crankshaft surface while removing old seal — use proper seal puller and be gentle.
- Installing seal backwards — check orientation; lip must face oil.
- Using an installer that contacts the seal lip or unevenly seats the seal — use correct OD driver/socket and tap evenly.
- Not cleaning sealing surfaces — always clean, dry, and remove old gasket residue.
- Not supporting the engine correctly — engine drop will ruin components and risk injury.
- Reusing damaged or stretch bolts — follow manual guidance; replace as needed.
- Overuse of RTV causing seal interference — apply thin bead only where specified.
- Forcing transmission onto input shaft — align dowels and input straight; rotate crank slightly to engage splines if necessary.
- Not checking crank for grooves — installing a new seal on a badly scored crank will leak.

Final notes
- Exact bolt torques and any special procedures (pilot bushing removal/installation, crankshaft seal seating depth) vary by model year and vehicle. Use the factory service manual for torque specs and any model‑specific quirks.
- If you don’t have a seal driver, buy a inexpensive seal driver kit sized for the seal OD — it makes the job fast and prevents seal damage.

End of procedure.
rteeqp73

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