Scope: Step-by-step procedure to remove and replace the manual clutch assembly (clutch disc, pressure plate, release/throw‑out bearing, pilot bearing and related seals) on Toyota 1RZ / 1RZ‑E / 2RZ / 2RZ‑E engine vehicles. Includes tools, safety, how each tool is used, replacement parts commonly required, and common pitfalls.

Safety first
- Work on level ground. Use wheel chocks.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Use quality jack stands rated for vehicle weight; never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and steel‑toe boots.
- Support engine with an engine support bar or a jack with a block under the oil pan (use a wooden block to prevent crush).
- Use a transmission jack (or heavy floor jack with secure cradle) to support and lower the gearbox safely.
- Drain transmission fluid into a pan before separating if needed.
- Have a fire extinguisher nearby when working around fuel/exhaust components.

Tools required (minimum)
- Metric socket set (8–24 mm), extensions, swivel.
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm).
- Breaker bar.
- Combination wrenches.
- Screwdrivers and pry bars.
- Transmission jack or equivalent.
- Engine support bar or jack + wood block.
- Clutch alignment tool (correct diameter for spline; usually comes in clutch kit).
- Pilot bearing puller / small slide hammer or appropriate drift.
- Slide hammer or puller for release bearing if seized.
- Flywheel holder (or method to lock flywheel) or impact wrench.
- Flywheel dressing tools or access to resurfacing machine (or new flywheel).
- Brake cleaner and lint-free rags.
- Gasket scraper.
- Wire brush.
- Thread locker (medium strength) and anti-seize for threads where specified.
- New cotter pins / circlips as needed.
- Seal driver set (to install new seals).
- Shop manual or access to torque specs and sequences.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Clutch kit: friction disc (clutch plate), pressure plate, release/throw‑out bearing.
- Pilot bearing/bushing (if fitted).
- Transmission input shaft seal (front seal) — replace while trans is out.
- Flywheel: resurface or replace if scored/warped; if resurfaced, use machining shop; replace if heat cracks or beyond spec.
- Flywheel bolts and clutch/pressure plate bolts (replace one‑time torque-to-yield bolts if fitted).
- Clutch fork pivot/fulcrum parts if worn.
- Transmission fluid (drain & refill per spec).
- Thread locker (as specified by manual).

Preliminary steps
1. Park, chock wheels, disconnect battery.
2. Raise vehicle, secure on jack stands. Remove center/under panels as needed.
3. Remove gearshift knob/console pieces to free shift linkage if necessary.
4. Drain transmission fluid and/or transfer case fluid (catch pan).
5. Remove driveshafts (rear‑wheel drive: propshaft; 4x4: front driveshafts/CV axles). Label or mark orientation if needed.
6. Remove starter motor (to access bell housing bolts).
7. Remove exhaust components or heat shields blocking transmission removal (exhaust hangers, bolts).
8. Label and disconnect wiring/ground straps, speedo cable, reverse light switch or sensors on the transmission.
9. Disconnect clutch hydraulic line: cap master cylinder or plug line to prevent spilling air into system. If mechanical linkage, unbolt linkage.

Supporting engine and transmission separation
10. Support engine: place engine support bar across engine bay or use jack under oil pan with wood block. This prevents engine dropping when bellhousing is unbolted.
11. Place transmission jack under the transmission and raise to take weight. Ensure secure cradle so trans won’t tilt during unbolting.

Removing transmission
12. Remove bell housing bolts (access from top and bottom). Keep bolts organized by length/location.
- How tool is used: Use appropriate socket, extensions, and breaker bar to break free bolts; use torque wrench later for reinstallation.
13. Remove crossmember(s) or support brackets under transmission; unbolt mount(s) and lower the mount with transmission jack slightly.
14. Ensure all electrical connectors, sensors, shift linkage, speedometer cable are disconnected.
15. Slowly lower and slide the transmission rearwards until input shaft clears clutch assembly. A little pry may be needed to unseat trans from clutch/flywheel; take care not to let trans drop or tilt excessively.
- How tool is used: Transmission jack lowered carefully while an assistant guides to keep input shaft aligned.

Clutch removal and inspection
16. With transmission removed, remove pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern gradually to avoid warping. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc.
17. Inspect flywheel surface for heat spots, scoring, or warpage. Check for cracks.
18. Remove pilot bearing/bushing from crank pilot bore using a puller or drift.
19. Remove release bearing/retainer from input shaft / clutch fork. Inspect clutch fork and pivot ball for wear.
20. Inspect transmission input shaft spline for wear and damage.

Decide flywheel service
21. If flywheel surface is glazed, heat spotted or slightly scored, resurface at machine shop. If heavy scoring, heat cracks, or strong runout, replace flywheel.
22. If resurfaced, confirm flywheel runout and surface finish is within Toyota specs (refer to service manual).

Installation (cleanliness and prep)
23. Clean flywheel and pressure plate mating surfaces with brake cleaner; do not contaminate friction surface.
24. Apply small amount of high‑temperature grease to clutch fork pivot and face of release bearing where it contacts fork; do NOT get grease on friction surfaces or input shaft splines.
25. Lightly oil input shaft spline only if manual recommends; best practice: use a very light smear of high-temp grease on splines then remove excess. Too much grease causes contamination and slipping.

Install pilot bearing and input shaft seal
26. Install new pilot bearing/bushing using driver sized to fit. Seat fully to correct depth.
27. Replace transmission input shaft seal at crank or on bellhousing side as required using seal driver and ensuring flush seating.

Fit clutch disc and pressure plate
28. Use clutch alignment tool: insert through clutch disc into pilot bearing to center disc on flywheel. This centers disc so the transmission input shaft will slide in easily.
- How the tool is used: alignment tool mimics the input shaft diameter. Hold it steady; install pressure plate over the clutch disc, then hand‑thread pressure plate bolts.
29. Tighten pressure plate bolts gradually in star/crisscross pattern to seat evenly. Torque to factory specification (consult Toyota service manual). If you cannot access spec immediately, tighten in stages and then obtain correct torque to finalize.
30. If bolts are single‑use or torque‑to‑yield, replace them with new ones and apply thread locker where specified.

Reinstall transmission
31. Raise transmission on the jack and align input shaft with the clutch disc and pilot bearing using the alignment tool to keep disc centered. Slowly slide transmission forward until bellhousing mates evenly to engine block.
32. Install bell housing bolts finger tight, then torque to spec in a proper sequence.
33. Reinstall transmission mounts and crossmember; torque fasteners to spec.
34. Reinstall starter, shift linkage, sensors, wiring, driveshaft(s), and exhaust removed earlier.

Hydraulics and final checks
35. Replace any disturbed seals and refill transmission fluid to correct level and type.
36. Bleed clutch hydraulic system (if hydraulic) - bench or bleed at slave cylinder/bleeder screw until firm pedal and no air remains. Use vacuum bleeder or two-person pump/bleed method. Top off master cylinder fluid.
37. Reconnect battery.
38. With vehicle still on jack stands, test clutch engagement: with brakes applied, start engine and slowly select gears to confirm smooth engagement/disengagement.
39. Lower vehicle, road test for engagement point, noise, vibration. Recheck fasteners after first heat cycle (100–200 km).

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Contaminating friction surfaces: never touch disc/pressure plate surfaces with oily hands or tools. Use clean rags and brake cleaner. Grease on the disc causes slippage.
- Not replacing throwout bearing/pilot bearing: these are inexpensive relative to labor — always replace both.
- Misalignment: skipping the alignment tool causes difficulty mating the transmission and can damage spline; always use an alignment tool.
- Incorrect torque or sequence: under/over torquing bolts or not using star pattern can warp the pressure plate or flywheel. Always use correct torque sequence and values from manual.
- Not supporting the engine properly: engine droop can break mounts or damage wiring. Use proper engine support.
- Reusing old bolts (especially torque‑to‑yield): some fasteners are single‑use; replace as required.
- Not resurfacing/highly worn flywheel: leaving a damaged flywheel causes chatter and short life for new disc.
- Excessive spline grease: use minimal grease on input spline; excess migrates into disc and causes slippage.
- Not bleeding clutch or not bleeding properly: leads to soft pedal and incomplete disengagement.

Notes specific to Toyota 1RZ / 2RZ series vehicles
- The layout is rear‑wheel drive on many trucks/SUVs; expect to remove propshaft and possibly transfer case components on 4x4s.
- Depth of transmission input pilot can be tight; pilot bearing/bushing size and clutch spline counts vary by model/year — buy a clutch kit matched to VIN / transmission model.
- Some models have a hydraulic release bearing assembly — replace entire assembly per kit instructions.
- Always consult the exact vehicle service manual for torque specs, sequences, and any model‑specific steps (e.g., special bolts, engine mount removal, transfer case removal).

Final reminders
- Use a quality clutch kit from a reputable supplier matched to your vehicle’s VIN and transmission.
- Replace seals and any worn linkage parts while transmission is out — saves labor later.
- Keep a clean working environment; double‑check fastener torques and fluid levels before road test.

End.
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