- Safety first
- Work on a flat level surface, engine off, parking brake on, wheels chocked.
- Wear gloves, eye protection, long sleeves. Transmission fluid is hot and slippery.
- Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone — always use appropriately rated jack stands.
- Dispose of used fluid at a recycling center; do not pour down drains.

- Tools and shop supplies (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Lifts the vehicle; place under manufacturer-recommended lift points. Pump handle to raise, lower slowly. Use only to lift — never stay under with only the jack.
- Jack stands (pair, rated for vehicle weight)
- Support the vehicle after lifting. Place under frame or axle points, then lower the vehicle onto stands. Verify stability before working.
- Wheel chocks
- Place behind wheels to prevent roll. Use on both sides of at least one wheel.
- Large drain pan (capacity 6–10+ liters)
- Catch used fluid. Slide under the drain plug/pan. Has pouring spout and should be wide to avoid spills.
- Socket set and wrenches (metric set, common sizes 10–19 mm)
- Remove drain plug, pan bolts, and linkage fasteners. Use correct size to avoid rounding bolts.
- Torque wrench (click type, appropriate range)
- Tighten bolts to spec. Prevents over/under-tightening. Set to service manual values when reinstalling bolts (if unknown, tighten snug then check manual).
- Screwdrivers / pry bar (flat blade)
- Gently pry pan/gasket free if stuck. Use carefully to avoid damage.
- Rubber mallet
- Tap pan or parts loose without damaging metal.
- Transmission fluid funnel and long-neck funnel or plastic tubing
- For controlled pouring into fill/dipstick tube or fill hole.
- Fluid transfer pump (hand or 12V pump) — recommended for transmissions without dipstick or hard-to-reach fill plugs
- Siphons new fluid from bottle into the transmission via dipstick tube or fill plug. A hand-operated pump is affordable and avoids spills.
- Rags, shop towels, brake cleaner
- Clean mating surfaces and spills. Brake cleaner removes old fluid and grime.
- Gasket scraper / gasket remover tool
- Remove old gasket material from pan and transmission surfaces.
- Replacement pan gasket or RTV gasket maker (if required)
- Prevent leaks when reinstalling pan.
- New transmission filter (automatic only)
- Replaces the internal filter that traps metal/contaminant particles. Required on automatics for a proper service.
- New crush washer or drain plug gasket (if applicable)
- Ensures drain plug seals; many drain plugs use a copper/plastic washer — replace if crushed or missing.
- New bolts (optional) and thread locker (per manual)
- Replace heavily corroded bolts. Use thread locker if manual requires.
- Funnel with strainer (optional)
- Catches debris when pouring new fluid.
- Service manual or OEM fluid specification printout
- Gives fluid type, capacity, torque specs, and exact fill procedure for your transmission.

- Fluids and spare parts (why they may be needed)
- Correct transmission fluid (check owner’s manual)
- Toyota often specifies Type T-IV or equivalent ATF for older automatics; manuals and some manuals may call for other specs. Using wrong fluid can harm the transmission.
- Quantity
- Keep more fluid than you expect (bring 4–10 L). Drain & refill only replaces part of the fluid; full converter change requires more or repeated cycles.
- Replacement filter (automatic transmissions)
- Filters trap metal shavings and debris; changing it restores flow and helps longevity.
- Pan gasket or RTV sealant
- Old gasket usually deforms; replace to prevent leaks. Use correct gasket or high-temp RTV if gasketless.
- Drain plug washer
- Replaces compressed washer to prevent leaks.
- Optional: new pan bolts if corroded, new dipstick O-ring if leaking

- Which approach to choose (important for beginners)
- Drain-and-refill (beginner-friendly, low risk)
- Removes only the fluid in the pan and torque converter exchange is partial. Safer for older seals. Recommended if you’re a beginner or if vehicle’s age/condition is unknown.
- Repeated drain-and-refill cycles (better than one drain)
- Do 2–3 cycles of drain, refill, run, and re-drain to replace more of the fluid without using a machine flush.
- Full pressure flush (shop-only)
- Uses a machine to push fluid through at pressure or a chemical flush. Can dislodge debris and damage old seals or clutch packs. Do not use unless a professional shop recommends it and you know the transmission is in good condition.

- Step-by-step for manual transmissions (general)
- Warm the vehicle: run engine a few miles or until transmission reaches normal operating temperature to make fluid flow easier—don’t overheat.
- Lift and support: jack the car, set on jack stands, chock wheels.
- Locate drain plug: find differential/transmission drain plug on gearbox case. Place drain pan under plug.
- Remove drain plug: use correct socket/wrench. Allow fluid to drain completely. Replace crush washer if applicable when reinstalling plug.
- Inspect drained fluid: check color and smell. Very dark, burnt-smelling fluid suggests internal wear.
- Reinstall drain plug: clean threads, refit plug with new washer, tighten to snug or to torque spec in manual if known.
- Fill to level: locate fill hole or fill plug on side of transmission. Remove fill plug and fill with specified gear oil/ATF (for some manuals) until it begins to drip from the fill hole, or to specified level. Use funnel or pump for accuracy.
- Lower vehicle and test drive: check for leaks, shift through gears.
- Recheck level: after warm-up and brief drive, recheck fill level and top up if needed.

- Step-by-step for automatic transmissions (general; on many Toyota R-series engine vehicles)
- Warm the transmission: short drive to bring fluid to operating temperature.
- Lift and support: use jack stands.
- If transmission has dipstick: remove dipstick and set aside (keep clean).
- Drain fluid from pan: place drain pan, loosen pan bolts slowly to let fluid drip from one corner, then remove remaining bolts and lower pan. Some pans have a drain plug — use it if equipped.
- Remove pan and filter: once pan is off, remove the filter (usually plastic or metal). Expect more fluid to drain when filter removed.
- Clean pan and magnet: wipe out pan, clean magnet(s) of metal filings (small filings normal; large chunks are bad).
- Replace filter: install new filter per orientation shown; ensure any O-rings or gaskets are fitted.
- Replace pan gasket: fit new gasket or use specified RTV. Clean mating surfaces first.
- Reinstall pan: hand-thread bolts, then tighten in a crisscross pattern to manual torque spec (if unknown, snug but avoid overtightening).
- Reinstall drain plug washer if removed.
- Refill with new fluid:
- If there is a dipstick: add fluid via dipstick tube with a pump or funnel. Add only the amount specified for a pan/filter change (refer to manual), then start engine and cycle through gears with foot on brake to distribute fluid. With engine warm and in park, check level on dipstick and bring to HOT mark.
- If there is no dipstick: fill via fill plug on case until fluid runs out of the fill hole with engine at specified temperature, or follow service manual procedure exactly. Using a pump into the torque converter via the dipstick tube (if present) is common.
- Check for leaks, torque pan bolts to spec, clean up spills.
- Road test and recheck level: warm up, recheck dipstick level and for leaks.

- How to use key tools in the process (concise)
- Socket/wrench: pick correct size, break loose bolts counterclockwise. Use steady force; don’t yank. For stuck bolts, apply penetrating oil, let soak, then use breaker bar if needed.
- Torque wrench: set to required torque, tighten bolts in sequence, listen for the click, stop.
- Fluid transfer pump: attach intake to fluid bottle, 1/4" or 3/8" hose on output, feed hose into dipstick tube or fill hole, pump until the required amount is transferred; wipe up drips.
- Funnel/tubing: push tubing down dipstick tube so funnel sits at top; pour slowly to avoid air locks or spills.
- Gasket scraper & rags: remove all old gasket residue until surface is clean and flat; wipe mating surfaces before installing new gasket.

- Common replacement parts and why they may be needed
- Transmission fluid
- Worn or contaminated fluid reduces lubrication and cooling; fresh fluid restores performance.
- Transmission filter (automatic)
- Traps particulate; a clogged filter restricts flow and causes shifting problems.
- Pan gasket or RTV
- Prevents leaks; old gaskets compress and leak over time.
- Drain plug crush washer / O-rings
- New washer prevents seepage at the plug.
- Pan bolts (if corroded) or bolt washers
- Prevents stripped threads and ensures secure seal.
- Dipstick O-ring / tube seal
- Prevents leaks where dipstick tube meets case.
- Seals (input/output shaft seals)
- Replace only if leaking; leaks can be visible after service. Replacing seals often requires extra disassembly or a shop.

- What to watch for (diagnostics / red flags)
- Very dark, burnt-smelling fluid or large metal chunks — consult a pro; transmission may be failing.
- Leaks after service — tighten bolts to spec and replace gasket if needed.
- Slipping gears or rough shifts after fluid change — possible internal damage or wrong fluid; stop driving and consult shop.
- If the vehicle has high mileage and old seals, avoid high-pressure flushes; use repeated drain/refill cycles instead.

- Disposal and cleanup
- Pour used fluid into sealed containers and take to an auto parts store or recycling center. Wipe surfaces with rags and brake cleaner; do not wash fluid into storm drains.

- Final recommendations for a beginner (summary)
- Start with a drain-and-refill or pan/filter change — it’s the safest and most beneficial.
- Have the service manual or OEM fluid spec handy for fluid type, capacities, bolt torques, and exact fill procedure.
- If unsure about full flushes, filter replacement, or if you find significant metal debris or leaks, take the vehicle to a transmission specialist.
- Bring extra tools listed above (fluid pump, new filter, gasket, crush washer) — they make the job cleaner and reduce risk of leaks.

- Quick checklist to bring to the job
- Jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, drain pan, socket set, torque wrench, screwdrivers, gasket scraper, replacement filter (automatic), pan gasket/RTV, crush washer, correct ATF/gear oil (enough liters), fluid transfer pump or funnel, rags, cleaning solvent, gloves, eye protection.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

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Toyota 2RZ Engine Experiment with Distributor and Carbs Well spent afternoon getting a Toyota 2RZ engine to run without an ECU using a distributor and carbs. Some may say "why?

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