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Toyota 1RZ 1RZ-E 2RZ 2RZ-E engine factory workshop and repair manual

Tools & consumables
- Floor jack and 2 quality jack stands (rated for vehicle weight). Wheel chocks.
- Metric socket set (10–22 mm), 3/8" & 1/2" drive ratchets, extensions.
- Breaker bar (18–24").
- Torque wrench (range to at least 200 Nm / 150 ft·lb).
- Open-end/combination wrenches (same metric sizes).
- Ball-joint separator (C-clamp style puller preferred) or pickle fork and heavy hammer.
- Pry bar and large flat screwdriver.
- Hammer, punch.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar).
- Wire or bungee to hang knuckle/brake hose.
- Rubber mallet.
- Anti-seize or light oil, and thread locker (if OEM calls for it).
- New lower control arm (OEM or quality aftermarket). If ball joint and/or bushings are replaceable separately, have those on hand — many 1RZ/2RZ-era control arms come with pressed-in ball joints or integral bushings; replace the whole arm if unsure.
- New nuts/bolts if OEM marks them as one-time-use or if they’re corroded. New cotter pin if applicable.
- Grease (if new arm/ball joint has grease zerk).

Safety & preliminary notes
- Do not rely on the hydraulic jack alone. Use jack stands on the frame or factory support points.
- Chock rear wheels. Wear eye protection and gloves.
- Always torque fasteners to factory specs found in the service manual. If you don’t have the manual, use a torque wrench and tighten to a reasonable spec and get a proper spec later — but alignment will still be required after replacement.
- After replacement, get a professional wheel alignment before driving aggressively.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Prep
- Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly while vehicle is on ground.

2) Lift & support
- Raise front at the proper jacking point. Place jack stands under frame rails or subframe. Lower vehicle onto stands. Remove wheel.

3) Support the control arm/knuckle
- Place a floor jack under the lower control arm near the ball joint (or under the knuckle with a wooden block). Lightly support the assembly so it doesn’t drop when fasteners are removed.

4) Remove sway bar link (if used)
- Remove the stabilizer (sway) bar end link from the lower control arm. Usually 12–19 mm. If the end link is seized, apply penetrating oil and use a breaker bar.

5) Remove shock/strut lower bolt (if necessary)
- Unbolt the lower shock/strut-to-control-arm bolt to free vertical constraint. Keep hardware organized.

6) Loosen ball joint nut
- Loosen (do not fully remove yet) the ball joint nut on the lower ball stud that connects to the steering knuckle. Loosening while components are supported helps keep parts from slamming.

7) Separate ball joint from knuckle
- Use a C-clamp style ball joint press/puller: position the tool so the fork presses the ball stud out of the taper without deforming the boot. Tighten the puller until it pops free.
- If using a pickle fork, be aware it will likely damage the ball joint boot. Insert fork between stud and knuckle and strike with a hammer until separated.
- Once separated, remove the nut and lift the ball stud out of the knuckle. Support the knuckle with wire so it doesn’t hang by brake hose/CV axle.

How the separator tools are used (quick)
- C-clamp style: place clamp over the fork around the ball joint cup, align forcing screw on end of stud, tighten slowly until press pops the taper loose. This preserves the boot and is preferred.
- Pickle fork: wedge between taper and hit; boot likely cut. Use only if you will replace the ball joint or whole arm.

8) Remove control arm pivot bolts
- Support the arm with the floor jack. Remove the mounting bolts at the frame/crossmember (front and rear pivot bolts). These can be stubborn—use penetrating oil and breaker bar. Keep the arm supported as you remove bolts.

9) Remove control arm
- Lower the jack a bit and rotate/clear the arm out of the subframe. Some arms may require prying to clear alignment tabs. Inspect mating surfaces, bushings, and adjacent parts (sway bar bushings, ball joint).

10) Compare & prep new part
- Compare new arm to old: spline orientation, ball stud thread direction, bracket positions. Transfer any brackets or sensors if needed.
- If the new arm has a grease zerk, grease it per instructions. If not, inspect ball joint boot for damage.

11) Install new control arm
- Position arm into place, raise with jack to align pivot holes. Insert pivot bolts finger-tight. Some bolts must be installed with the suspension at curb height; check manual. For many Toyota arms, final torque is done with vehicle at normal ride height — if manual is not available, torque the pivot bolts with the vehicle resting on its wheels (see final torquing step).

12) Reconnect ball joint to knuckle
- Insert ball stud into knuckle taper, install nut and torque to spec. If the nut uses a cotter pin, align nut to the slot and fit a new cotter pin; do not tighten beyond aligned slot.

13) Reinstall shock lower bolt and swaybar link
- Reinstall and torque per spec. Reattach any brackets or sensors removed.

14) Hand-tighten pivot bolts, lower vehicle on its wheels
- With wheels off, hand-tighten pivot bolts. Lower vehicle so suspension is at normal ride height (lower onto ground or support so springs are under load). Then torque the control arm pivot bolts to factory specs. This is critical — bushings must be torqued with load in some designs to avoid preloading/damaging bushings.

15) Final torque & checks
- Torque all fasteners to the factory specs. Torque wheels to wheel lug spec.
- Check ball joint nut cotter pin, brake hose routing, CV axle boot condition, sway bar link tightness.

16) Test drive & alignment
- Get a professional 2- or 4-wheel alignment immediately. Test drive carefully to confirm no noises, pull, or vibration.

Parts commonly required
- New lower control arm assembly (often cheapest and most reliable).
- Replacement ball joint (if separate) or full arm with integrated ball joint.
- Replacement bushings if worn (or new arm if bushings are pressed).
- New nuts/bolts/cotter pin (replacement often recommended for corroded or one-time-use fasteners).
- Grease for greasable joints.
- Alignment after installation.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Relying on jack only: Always use jack stands.
- Letting knuckle hang by brake hose or CV axle: wire it up; stress on hoses/axles will cause boot damage.
- Damaging ball joint boot with pickle fork: use a C-clamp-style puller to avoid destroying boot if reusing joint is intended.
- Not supporting control arm before removing pivot bolts: arm can fall and hit you or damage parts.
- Forgetting to torque pivot bolts with vehicle weight on wheels: this preloads bushings incorrectly and shortens life or causes odd handling.
- Reusing corroded bolts: they can fail or prevent proper torque—replace if corroded or if manufacturer calls for replacement.
- Skipping alignment: leads to rapid tire wear and poor handling.
- Over-tightening or cross-threading fasteners: start bolts by hand, then use tools.

Notes on torque specs
- Torque specs vary by year and model. I do not supply a generic number because exact specs should come from the Toyota service manual for your specific vehicle (engine code doesn’t determine torque; chassis and suspension version does). Use a torque wrench and factory values.

Done checklist before driving
- All fasteners torqued (including lug nuts).
- Cotter pins installed where required.
- Brake lines/ABS wiring routed and secure.
- No metal-on-metal contact or interference.
- Wheels properly torqued; alignment scheduled.

That’s the full process. Follow the manual for exact torque values and any model-specific steps (torsion-bar vs coil-spring front suspension variations).
rteeqp73

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