Toyota 1RZ 1RZ-E 2RZ 2RZ-E engine factory workshop and repair manual
Toyota 1RZ 1RZ-E 2RZ 2RZ-E engine factory workshop and repair manual download
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Introduction
Engine Mechanical
EFI system
Fuel System
Cooling System
Lubrication System
Ignition System
Starting System
Charging System
Service Specifications
Torgue settings
SST and SSM
Engine
Diagonostics
Emission Control
Electronic Fuel Injection
Cooling
The 1RZ is a 2.0 L (1,998 cc) version built from 1989. Bore is 86 mm and stroke is 86 mm.
The 1RZ-E is the fuel-injected version of the 1RZ. With a 9.0 to 1 compression ratio, output is 101–108 hp at 5,400 rpm with 118–123 lb·ft (161–167 N·m) of torque at 2,800 rpm.
The 2RZ is a 2.4 L (2,438 cc) version. Bore is 95 mm and stroke is 86 mm; a variety of combination of heads and fuel delivery systems were available.
2RZ-E This is an SOHC engine with two valves per cylinder. Valve adjustment is by shim over bucket. Output is 120 PS (88 kW) at 5,200 rpm. Originally manufactured with a carburetor induction system, it was later upgraded to Electronic Fuel Injection, with the -E suffix added to the engine designation. Toyota specified unleaded fuel with a rating of at least 91 RON (Research Octane Rating) in Australia.
1989–2004 Toyota HiAce
1998–2005 Toyota Revo
1998–2001 Toyota Hilux
2000–2004 Toyota Kijang
1995–2004 Toyota Tacoma 4x2
Toyota 1RZ 1RZ-E 2RZ 2RZ-E factory workshop and repair online download
Why this repair is needed — the simple theory
- Automatic transmissions use hydraulic circuits to route pressurized fluid to clutch packs and bands to select gears. Shift solenoids are electrically controlled valves that open or close those hydraulic paths under commands from the Transmission Control Module (TCM).
- If a solenoid sticks, shorts, opens, leaks, or the wiring/connectors fail, the hydraulic circuit it controls will not produce correct pressure. That causes incorrect, delayed, harsh, or missing shifts, limp mode, and set transmission-related fault codes.
- Analogy: think of the transmission as a plumbing system and the solenoids as electronically controlled faucets. If a faucet is clogged or its wiring fails, the room (gear) you want may not get the water (pressure) or it gets too much.
Main components you’ll deal with (what each one does)
- Shift solenoid(s) (A, B, etc.): small electromagnetic valves that open/close hydraulic passages. Some are ON/OFF, some are variable (proportional). They often sit in a solenoid pack attached to the valve body.
- Valve body: cast aluminum block with machined hydraulic passages and spool valves. Solenoids act on these passages to route pressure.
- Spool valves / check balls / springs / accumulators: internal hydraulic parts that move under pressure to apply or release clutches/bands; accumulators soften pressure changes.
- Transmission fluid pump: supplies line pressure for the whole system. Solenoids don’t create pressure; they route it.
- Torque converter: couples engine to transmission; torque applied to clutches.
- Transmission Control Module (TCM) / PCM: reads vehicle speed, throttle position, engine RPM, and commands solenoids.
- Speed sensors (input/output): feed speed info to TCM for shift timing.
- Transmission pan and gasket: holds fluid; dropping it gives access.
- Filter/strainer: catches debris; often replaced during pan drop.
- Magnets inside pan: catch metallic shavings; inspect for heavy deposits.
- Solenoid harness/connector and O-rings/seals: electrical feed to solenoid and hydraulic seals.
- Bolts (short/long) for valve body and pan: note different lengths — they are not interchangeable.
- Dipstick or fill/check plug: used to set level.
Symptoms that point to solenoids
- Check Engine Light / Transmission codes (P0750–P0799 range, P0740, etc.), or generic “transmission fault.”
- Harsh, delayed, or no up-/down-shifts, stuck in one gear or limp mode (often 2nd/3rd).
- Erratic shift timing, slipping, or high revs.
- Transmission fluid contamination (burnt smell, metal particles).
Diagnosing before replacing
- Scan for codes and live data (solenoid commands vs solenoid state/PWM). A scanner showing commanded ON but not responding suggests failed solenoid or wiring.
- Check fluid level & condition (dark, burnt smell). Low/dirty fluid can cause bad shifting.
- Back-probe solenoid connector and watch voltage/ground while commanding with a scan tool. For proportional solenoids, TCM will pulse/PWM the circuit.
- Resistance test: disconnect and measure coil resistance with a multimeter. Exact specs vary; compare all solenoids on vehicle or use service manual. A very high (open) or zero/near-zero (short) reading indicates a bad coil. Don’t rely on resistance alone.
- Bench 12V test: briefly apply 12V across coil terminals to feel click (for on/off solenoids). Do not do this submerged in fluid — remove solenoid first. Avoid prolonged 12V that will burn it.
- Wiggle test wiring connectors; inspect for corrosion, broken wires, bent pins.
Tools & parts you’ll need
- Tools: vehicle jack and quality jackstands or lift, drain pan, metric socket set (including 10/12/14mm etc.), torque wrench, ratchet, extensions, flat-head & Phillips, small pick, gasket scraper, magnet (for cleaning), multimeter, screwdriver set, new pan gasket or RTV as required, clean lint-free rags. Optional: scan tool for commands and live data.
- Parts: replacement solenoid(s) or solenoid assembly, new transmission filter/strainer, pan gasket, new pan bolts (optional), O-rings or seals for solenoid/harness, fresh correct ATF (Toyota spec—see vehicle plate/manual: Type T-IV or WS depending on year/model), possibly a replacement valve body gasket if present.
- Consumables: brake cleaner or ATF-safe solvent, clean shop rags, small amount of transmission fluid to prime seals.
Safety first (non-negotiable)
- Work on a flat surface. Chock wheels. Use jackstands; do not rely on a jack.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Transmission fluid is slippery and hot; allow the vehicle to cool.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on electrical connectors. (Some prefer leaving battery connected to allow scan-tool commands during testing, but if you disconnect, clear codes only when ready.)
Step-by-step replacement procedure (beginner-friendly, detailed)
Note: exact bolt sizes and torque specs vary by transmission model. Use the vehicle’s service manual for torque values and any model-specific steps. The below is a general, complete workflow.
1) Prepare and drain
- Park, set parking brake, chock wheels. Raise vehicle and secure on jack stands so pan is reachable.
- Warm up engine slightly (optional) – warm fluid drains cleaner. Then shut off engine.
- Place drain pan under transmission. Remove transmission pan bolts a few turns and loosen one corner to let fluid drain carefully, or remove the pan fully if no drain. Beware hot fluid. Catch fluid and inspect for metal chunks.
- Remove pan and let fluid fully drain. Clean pan, remove magnets and clean metal filings off magnets (small amounts OK; big chunks indicate internal damage).
2) Remove filter and expose valve body/solenoids
- With pan removed, remove the transmission filter (held by bolts or press-fit). Some filters have O-rings; replace them.
- Support the valve body before removing bolts — parts inside are spring-loaded; keep track of bolt locations (some are longer/shorter). A good method: lay out bolts on a paper with holes matching pattern or mark them individually.
- Disconnect electrical connectors to the valve body/solenoid pack. Take photos so you can reassemble correctly.
3) Remove valve body or gain access to solenoids
- Unbolt valve body carefully (some transmissions require partial removal to access solenoid pack). Lower valve body slightly — it may still be connected to sensors/wiring. Do not pry on valve body; lift gently.
- Inspect valve body mating surfaces, spool valves, and check balls for heavy wear or contamination. Clean with ATF-safe solvent and compressed air (gentle) only if necessary.
4) Remove and replace solenoid(s)
- Identify solenoid pack location. Many Toyota transmissions have solenoids mounted in the valve body or in a separate solenoid block. Note orientation and harness routing.
- Remove retaining screws/bolts for solenoid(s). Carefully pull solenoids straight out — they have small O-rings/seals; don’t tear them. If the solenoid pack has a multi-pin connector, pull connector first and then unbolt.
- Replace with new solenoids: lubricate new O-rings lightly with clean ATF, seat them squarely, and press into place. Replace any small seals or gaskets. Make sure connectors seat fully.
- If replacing just one solenoid, consider replacing all in the pack if the vehicle is high-mileage — matched wear is desirable.
5) Reinstall valve body, filter, pan
- Carefully align valve body and tighten bolts in a crisscross pattern to spec (or snug, then torque to spec in stages). Incorrect torque can warp the valve body and cause leaks or internal damage.
- Reinstall new filter and pan gasket. Clean pan mating surface and use new gasket or correct RTV sealant where specified (don’t smear excess RTV into pan).
- Reinstall pan, insert bolts finger-tight, then torque to specification (typical small pan bolts ~8–10 ft·lb; verify in manual). Do not overtighten.
6) Refill fluid and initial checks
- Reconnect negative battery if you disconnected it. Refill ATF according to service procedure. Use correct type (Toyota T-IV or WS as specified). If the vehicle has a dipstick, fill to the “cold” or recommended level initially. If it has a fill plug, use that method.
- Start engine, let idle. With parking brake on and transmission in Park (or per procedure), check for leaks around pan and connectors. Cycle through gears (P-R-N-D-2-1) slowly and back to Park to allow fluid to circulate and purge air.
- Check fluid level properly: often it must be at normal operating temperature and level checked with engine idling in Park/Neutral per manufacturer procedure. Some Toyotas require checking with transmission at ~50–80°C; consult manual.
7) Verify operation and road test
- Clear any stored transmission codes and perform a road test, watching for shift quality. Use a scan tool to command solenoids and monitor that the TCM sees correct response.
- Recheck fluid level after warm-up and any leaks after a short drive. Inspect pan bolts for tightness.
Testing solenoid and wiring (detailed)
- Resistance: With connector off, measure coil resistance across terminals. Compare values between solenoids and spec. A gross open or short is bad.
- Apply 12V briefly to solenoid to feel actuation/click for on/off types. Don’t leave 12V applied for long.
- Back-probe connectors with scan-tool commanding solenoid ON/OFF to confirm TCM is driving the circuit and that wiring gets voltage/ground.
- If TCM commands but solenoid does not respond, replace solenoid and check wiring continuity. If solenoid responds but shifting still wrong, inspect valve body internals or clutches.
What can go wrong — common pitfalls and failure modes
- Contaminated fluid: metal debris or sludge can clog the valve body or solenoid ports. If heavy contamination exists, full overhaul or replacement of valve body and clutches may be required.
- Damaged O-rings or seals when removing/installing solenoids: causes internal leaks and wrong pressures. Always replace seals and lube them before installation.
- Mixing wrong ATF: different ATF formulations can cause shift problems and damage. Use Toyota spec.
- Over-torqued bolts: warps valve body causing leaks or binding spools. Under-torqued: leaks and bolt failure. Always torque to spec.
- Using the wrong solenoid: solenoid part numbers vary — fitment matters; polarity and resistance vary.
- Not replacing the filter/cleaning pan magnets: leftover debris will re-contaminate new solenoids.
- Electrical connector damage: corroded pins or damaged harness causing intermittent faults. Replace or repair correctly.
- Not checking TCM codes/learning values: some transmissions need adaptation or TCM relearning after repair. Use a scan tool to clear codes and perform relearn if needed.
- Forcing parts: valve body and solenoids have precise locations; forcing can tear passages or bend spools.
When a simple solenoid swap may NOT solve the problem
- If internal valve spools are scored/stuck, or clutch packs are worn, shifting issues won’t be fixed by solenoids alone. Presence of a lot of metal on pan magnets suggests internal clutch/component failure.
- Pump failure or low line pressure upstream won’t be fixed by solenoids. Measure line pressure if suspect.
- TCM software/hardware failure or sensor faults (speed sensors, throttle position sensor) can mimic solenoid failure.
Typical maintenance tips
- Replace filter and fluid when you do the job. Don’t reuse old fluid.
- Inspect and clean connectors and wiring harness. Use dielectric grease on connectors after cleaning.
- Keep a record of the fluid type and service date. Consider periodic fluid changes per manufacturer interval.
Final things to remember (short checklist)
- Safety: jackstands, cool fluid, battery disconnected as needed.
- Use the correct ATF and amount.
- Keep bolts organized (valve body bolts differ).
- Replace seals/O-rings and filter.
- Clean pan magnets and inspect debris.
- Torque fasteners to spec and follow correct fill/level procedure.
- Scan and clear codes; verify operation with live data.
You now have the full procedure, component descriptions, diagnostic checks, testing methods, and common failure modes laid out for replacing shift solenoid(s) on Toyota transmissions used with 1RZ / 1RZ-E / 2RZ / 2RZ-E engines. Follow the vehicle-specific service manual for exact torque specs, fluid amounts, and any special steps. rteeqp73
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