Tools & PPE (minimum)
- PPE: safety glasses, welding helmet (if welding), gloves, steel-toe boots, ear protection.
- Floor jack + quality jack stands (rated for vehicle weight).
- Wheel chocks.
- Metric socket set, ratchet, extensions, breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (0–200 ft·lb).
- Pry bar, rubber mallet.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster).
- Punch/hammer.
- Spring compressor suitable for coil-over/strut springs (outer-coil clamp style for struts) or two-piece over-the-coil compressor for off-vehicle struts.
- Impact wrench (optional) and hand tools.
- 2nd jack to support control arm/axle.
- Wire brush / grinder (for corrosion cleanup).
- Welding gear (MIG/TIG/Stick) if axle spring perch replacement required.
- Replacement parts: spring seat/insulator(s), upper strut mount and bearing (recommended), new mounting hardware if corroded, weld-on axle spring perch or new axle tube (if severe).
- Anti-seize/lubricant and rust-inhibitor paint/undercoating.

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
1. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use jack stands on solid, level ground.
2. Use wheel chocks on opposite axle.
3. Coil springs store energy—always use a proper spring compressor rated for the application and keep hands clear while decompressing.
4. If you’re not experienced welding axle perches, take the axle to a shop. Improper welds can fail catastrophically.
5. Follow factory torque specs from a service manual for your exact model/year.

Two common repair paths depending on location/type of damage
A) Replace rubber spring seat/insulator (front strut or rear coil isolator) — routine, no welding.
B) Repair/replace welded spring perch on rear axle — requires removing spring and welding.

A) Front (or rear) coil spring seat / insulator replacement (typical MacPherson strut or coil-on-shock)
Steps:
1. Prep: Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly.
2. Lift & support: Jack up vehicle and place on stands under appropriate pinch-weld or subframe points. Remove wheel.
3. Access: Remove any components blocking strut removal: sway bar end link, ABS sensor bracket, brake line bracket, stabilizer links as needed.
4. Support knuckle/control arm: Support lower control arm or knuckle with a floor jack (to control droop when bolts are removed).
5. Remove strut assembly: Remove lower strut-to-knuckle bolts (store hardware). Open hood, remove upper strut mount nuts (3) holding strut tower. Carefully lower out strut assembly.
6. Compress spring: Secure strut in a vise or place on solid bench. Install a proper coil spring compressor: clamp compressors opposite each other on spring coils, tighten evenly and alternately until spring tension is fully relieved from the top nut. Verify spring no longer binds the strut top.
7. Disassemble: Remove the strut top nut while holding piston rod from turning. Remove strut mount, dust boot, bump stop, and old spring isolator/seat.
8. Inspect parts: Check spring for cracks, strut for oil leaks or bent rod, mount bearing condition. Replace mounts/bearings if worn.
9. Install new seat/isolator: Fit new rubber isolator into spring perch (upper and/or lower as applicable). Reassemble dust boot, bump stop, mount.
10. Re-tension spring: With compressor still holding, compress until correct preload, reinstall top nut and torque to spec while holding rod. Remove compressors slowly and evenly.
11. Reinstall strut: Place strut back into vehicle, snug upper nuts, align lower bolts and torque to factory specs. Reattach brackets, sway links.
12. Recheck: Torque all fasteners to spec, reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torque lug nuts to spec, perform test drive and check alignment — an alignment is recommended after strut removal.

How the spring compressor is used
- Use a compressor that fits the coil diameter and has long jaws that hook under the coil. Mount two compressors opposite each other about 180° apart, on adjacent coils, not on the ends.
- Tighten each side a few turns alternately to keep spring straight and avoid binding. Compress until the spring no longer presses on the strut top and you can remove the top nut with a wrench.
- When releasing, slowly back off each side alternately and evenly. Never use a single-point compressor on a vehicle-installed strut unless designed for that strut type.

Common pitfalls (A)
- Using the wrong type of compressor or attaching them incorrectly — can slip and release spring violently.
- Not supporting lower control arm/knuckle — control arm can drop and cause damage/injury.
- Reusing worn strut mount bearings — causes noise and premature wear.
- Forgetting to torque to spec — loose strut bolts affect handling.

B) Rear axle spring perch (seat) repair (if perch is severely rusted or broken)
Note: Many 4Runners have welded spring perches on the axle housing that corrode. This procedure requires cutting and welding. If you’re not a welder, take axle to a shop.

Steps:
1. Lift & support: Block front wheels, jack and support rear axle with jack stands under frame (not on axle tube). Support axle with a second jack under axle housing so you can lower it as required.
2. Remove wheel and shock if needed, disconnect sway bar links and lower links to drop axle enough to remove spring.
3. Remove spring: Support axle, lower it slightly and slide spring out of old perch. Note spring orientation and end clip position. If perch is collapsed, you may need to cut away remnants.
4. Clean area: Wire brush and grind rust away on axle tube where new perch will sit. Make a flat, clean surface for weld. Degrease and clamp new perch in correct position (use factory position as reference).
5. Fit new perch: Use a bolt-on cage/perch or a weld-on perch designed for your axle. For weld-on, tack-weld in place, verify orientation and location (use opposite side as template).
6. Weld: Fully weld around perch per material spec (if axle steel, typical MIG weld with proper penetration). Grind smooth if desired, then coat with rust inhibitor/paint/undercoating.
7. Reinstall spring: After paint dries, place spring onto new perch, raise axle back to ride height and seat spring into upper seat. Reinstall shocks and links.
8. Finalize: Torque all hardware, lower vehicle, test.

Replacement parts recommended
- Rubber spring insulators/seats (upper and lower).
- Upper strut mount & bearing (replace when doing strut work).
- New top strut nut if damaged; new bolts/nuts for strut-to-knuckle if corroded.
- Weld-on replacement spring perches for rear axle if original perches are compromised.
- New coil spring only if rusted, pitted, or sagged.

Common pitfalls (B)
- Poor welds or insufficient penetration — perch can fail under load. Use a qualified welder.
- Incorrect perch positioning — spring indexing will be wrong and may come off under compression.
- Not replacing corroded fasteners — hardware failure risk.
- Not inspecting spring/pad condition — new perch on a worn pad will still cause noise.

Final checks and tips
- Always get a wheel alignment after any suspension disassembly.
- Replace strut mounts/bearings in pairs (both sides) for consistent handling.
- Use anti-seize on bolts where appropriate but follow torque specs.
- After test drive, re-torque all fasteners.
- If unsure about welding or spring compression, take it to a professional.

Done.
rteeqp73

5vzfe Swap 4runner Wiring Guide (AUS) Hello all, I do hope everybody enjoys this video. more are on the way with a sooner deadline.

Best Toyota 4Runner Suspension Deal! Eibach INSTALL & Review You don't need to spend K on a new Toyota 4Runner suspension system! I'll show you how to install a complete 4Runner lift kit, ...

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Short primer and roadmap first: I’ll explain why your 4Runner’s gearbox may need reconditioning, how the gearbox works (theory), exact description of the parts you will see, what commonly fails, the tools and parts you’ll need, and then a step‑by‑step procedure for removal, bench disassembly, inspection, reconditioning (what to replace and how), reassembly, setting end‑float/preload/shims, installation, fluid and break‑in. I’ll use plain analogies to make concepts intuitive. If anything must be model‑specific (bolt torques, shim thickness tables, clearance limits) I’ll tell you to use the factory service manual — those numbers vary by year/engine/transmission.

Quick safety note (short, not yapping): wear eye protection, gloves, use jack stands (never rely on a jack alone), support the transmission with a transmission jack, disconnect battery. Use cleaner and compressed air in a well‑ventilated area.

1) Why recondition a gearbox? (Theory, symptoms)
- Purpose: the gearbox (manual transmission) transfers engine torque to the driveshaft/wheels and gives selectable gear ratios so the engine can operate in an efficient RPM range.
- Why reconditioning: wear and damage cause noise, grinding, gear selection problems, slipping out of gear, vibration, or fluid leaks. Reconditioning restores parts and tolerances so the gearbox runs quietly and reliably.
- Symptoms that indicate need: grinding in gears, difficulty selecting gears, clutch engagement oddness (if clutch not the problem), whining or growling that changes with speed, excessive play in the shift lever, visible fluid leaks, metallic debris in fluid.

Analogy: the gearbox is like a well‑made multi‑speed bicycle hub with steel cogs, bearings, and shifters. If the cogs or bearings wear, the chain jumps or the wheel gets noisy. The gearbox is similar but much heavier-duty and enclosed.

2) How the system works (basic theory)
- Input torque: engine clutch/torque converter connects to transmission input shaft.
- Power path (manual): engine → input shaft → countershaft/cluster gear → selected gear meshes with output gear on output shaft → output shaft → driveshaft → differential → wheels.
- Synchronizers (synchros): match rotational speed of the gear and shaft so the gear can be engaged smoothly — they are friction cones/rings that equalize speed before dog teeth engage.
- Shift forks and rails: move the collars that engage gears via synchros.
- Bearings and seals: align shafts and carry radial/axial loads, prevent oil leaks.
- Lubrication: gearbox oil reduces friction and cools; proper oil and level matter.
- Adverse conditions: missing synchro action causes grinding; bad bearings cause noise and shaft misalignment which leads to gear wear; low oil causes overheating and wear.

Analogy: synchronizers are like the friction between two bicycle gears when you slow the rear wheel by hand before engaging a new gear — they let the parts come to the same speed smoothly.

3) Detailed description of every main component you’ll encounter (manual gearbox focus)
- Transmission case / housing: cast aluminum/iron shell that holds shafts, bearings, and oil. Two halves split longitudinally on many gearboxes.
- Input shaft: receives rotational power from clutch and carries the input gear or pinion.
- Output shaft: sends power out to the driveshaft; carries the output gears that engage with countershaft gears.
- Countershaft (cluster shaft): carries gears that mesh with input and output gears; typically always rotating (constant mesh design).
- Gears: helical or straight cut teeth that provide ratios (1st, 2nd, 3rd…reverse). Helical gears are quieter, produce axial loads.
- Synchronizer assemblies (synchro rings, sleeves, hubs, blocker rings): hub is splined to shaft, sleeve slides to lock gear to hub; blocker ring (cone) provides friction to match speeds.
- Shift collars/sleeves: slide over hub to lock gear to shaft after synchronization.
- Shift forks: metal forks mounted on shift rails that push sleeves; they can wear at the contact pad.
- Shift rails/selector shaft: the rods the forks slide on; include detents and linkage interface.
- Bearings: roller or ball bearings that support shafts; main types include cylindrical roller bearings for shaft support and ball bearings for thrust loads (depending on gearbox).
- Bearing races: surfaces where bearings ride; integral to shafts or pressed into case.
- Input/output shaft seals (oil seals): prevent leakage at the splined ends and tail housing.
- Needle bearings / gear bushings: small bearings supporting gear ends or idler shafts.
- Reverse idler gear (if fitted): engages reverse gear; often includes a separate shaft and spacer.
- Mainshaft spacers, circlips, snap rings, shims: axial positioning and preload control.
- End covers / tail housings: contain bearings and output seal; sometimes contain speedometer drive.
- Gaskets / RTV: seal case halves and covers.
- Oil pump (automatic only) / clutch packs / valve body (automatic only): if you have an automatic gearbox, many additional components (clutches, drums, band, planetary sets) exist — automatic reconditioning is more complex and often requires specialized tools and calibration.

Note: If your 4Runner has an automatic transmission, the scale of parts and hydraulic control complexity is much greater; I’ll focus the reconditioning procedure on manual gearboxes. For automatics, consider a specialist or a full rebuild kit and factory manual.

4) What can go wrong (failure modes)
- Worn synchro rings → gear grinding or clash on shifts (especially 2nd/3rd).
- Worn/damaged dog teeth on collars/gears → popping out of gear or inability to engage.
- Worn bearings → whining/roaring noise, gear misalignment, increased play; bearings can flake (spall).
- Shaft runout or scored shafts → poor bearing fit, gear misalignment.
- Worn gear teeth (pitting, chipped teeth) → noise and eventual failure.
- Excessive end‑float/axial play → harsh engagement, rattling, oil leaks, increased wear.
- Broken shift fork or worn fork pads → sloppy or impossible shifting.
- Seals dried/cracked → leaks and oil loss → subsequent wear.
- Contamination (metal shavings in oil) → widespread wear; indicates internal failure like bearing spall.
- Incorrect oil or no oil → overheating, gear scuffing, premature wear.

5) Tools and supplies you’ll need
- Factory service manual for your model/year (for specs).
- Basic hand tools: metric sockets, ratchets, extensions, torque wrench, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Transmission jack or sturdy floor jack and support cradle.
- Engine support or transmission crossmember removal tool (as needed).
- Snap ring pliers, drift punches, brass hammer, soft‑faced mallet.
- Bearing puller, slide hammer, and a hydraulic or arbor press (pressing bearings off/on).
- Gear puller (if needed) and heat source (induction heater or heat gun) for stubborn bearings/gears.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for measuring endfloat and runout).
- Micrometer and vernier caliper (for shaft diameters, gear face widths).
- Plastigage (for bearing clearance if needed) and feeler gauges.
- Cleaning solvents (parts washer or solvent tank), compressed air.
- New gaskets/seals, bearing and synchro replacement parts, replacement gears if badly damaged.
- Assembly lube and appropriate gear oil for final fill.
- New shift fork pads if available, new snap rings, shims as required.
- Torque wrench and thread locker (manufacturer specified grade).
- Clean rags, drain pan, fuel‑resistant RTV if required.

6) Parts to buy before you start (minimum)
- Full gasket/seal kit for the gearbox.
- Bearing kit (front/rear/main bearings) — replace all bearings in pairs as needed.
- Synchronizer kit (rings, hub/sleeve if needed).
- Shift fork/rail set or pads (if worn).
- New output/input seals, speedometer seal if present.
- Replacement gears only if you measure and find wear beyond service limit.
- Gear oil (type and volume per manual).

7) Step‑by‑step reconditioning procedure (manual transmission) — concise but detailed

A. Preparation & removal from vehicle
1. Park on level ground, chock wheels, disconnect battery.
2. Drain gearbox oil.
3. Remove driveshaft(s)/axle shafts as applicable (unlock hubs if needed). Label components and caps.
4. Disconnect shift linkage, neutral safety switches, speedometer cable/sensor.
5. Support engine (if removing transmission crossmember affects engine support) and place transmission jack under gearbox.
6. Remove starter if needed, remove transmission crossmember and mount bolts.
7. Unbolt bellhousing from engine (loosen evenly), slide gearbox back off input shaft while supporting it on the jack. Lower gearbox to bench.

B. Bench disassembly (work cleanly, take photos)
1. Clean exterior of gearbox to limit contamination.
2. Remove tail/extension housing bolts and remove cover.
3. Remove selector forks, shift rails, detent springs, and remove snap rings retaining shafts.
4. Carefully extract output shaft and countershaft assembly — note sequence and orientation of gears, spacers, and snap rings. Keep parts in order and bag/label small items.
5. Remove input shaft and associated bearings.
6. Split case halves (if applicable) by removing case bolts. Be careful: alignment dowels may hold halves together; separate gently.
7. Remove bearings using a press or puller. Use a soft drift to avoid damage if pressing by hand. Mark which bearing goes where.
8. Remove synchro hubs, sleeves, and rings. Inspect blocker rings for wear and grooves.
9. Inspect all shafts for scoring, wear, or out‑of‑round.

C. Cleaning and inspection
1. Wash all parts in solvent; blow dry with compressed air.
2. Inspect all gear teeth: check for pitting, chipped teeth, heavy wear on mating faces. Light wear is normal; replace gears if tooth profile is heavily worn or chipped.
3. Measure backlash between mating gears using dial indicator (mount gear and check runout/backlash per manual). Service limits: consult factory manual.
4. Check bearing bores in case for ovality or wear; check for bearing race damage.
5. Check synchro ring cones for wear grooves; check blocker ring wear limits.
6. Check shift forks for bentness; check fork pad thickness and slot wear.
7. Measure shaft diameters and compare to service limits; check for runout with dial indicator.
8. Check snap rings, circlips, and keys for integrity.

D. Decide what to replace (rules of thumb)
- Always replace bearings showing brinelling, pitting, or excessive play.
- Replace all synchro rings that show scoring or worn little teeth/overly glazed friction surface.
- Replace any fork with bent or heavily worn pads.
- Replace seals and gaskets.
- Replace gear(s) only if damaged beyond spec; replacing adjacent bearing/shafts may be necessary if wear severe.
- If metal flakes are present in the oil, clean case thoroughly, replace bearings and synchros, inspect for deeper damage — consider full rebuild.

E. Parts installation (reconditioning)
1. Press new bearings on shafts with arbor press; heat gears/races to fit if interference fit required (heat only to manufacturer recommended temp).
2. Install new synchro rings with their orientation (cones toward gear) and ensure hub/sleeve sliding surfaces are clean and slightly oiled with assembly lube.
3. Replace shift fork pads using proper rivets or bolts if OEM. Check that forks float freely on rails.
4. Install new seals in tail housing and front input shaft seal.
5. Replace any worn speedometer drive gear or cable.

F. Setting end‑float, preload, and clearances (critical)
1. Reassemble shafts into one case half with new bearings and shims as required.
2. Check rotational play and bearing preload using dial indicator and trial assembly. Use factory shim stack specifications to set axial endplay on mainshaft. Typical process:
- Install bearings and a tentative shim, assemble shafts, measure end‑float (axial movement) with dial indicator. Adjust shim thickness to achieve specified endplay.
- For bearings with preload, follow service procedure to measure torque to turn the shaft or use manufacturer method (some use torque plates or calibrated washers).
3. Check gear backlash: mount pinion/countershaft and measure gear-to-gear backlash with dial indicator; adjust shims as necessary.
4. Make sure synchronizer sleeve engagement is smooth and aligns with shift rail detents; check for binding.
5. Use Plastigage only where recommended — usually not used for gearbox bearings; more common in engine work.

Analogy: setting shims is like adjusting the play in a bicycle bottom bracket so the crank turns smoothly without side‑to‑side wiggle but also not too tight to bind.

G. Reassembly
1. Apply assembly lube to bearings, synchro cones, and sliding surfaces.
2. Reinstall shift forks, rails, detent springs and ensure selector moves smoothly.
3. Fit both case halves together, ensuring dowels align. Torque case bolts to spec (consult manual).
4. Reinstall tail/extension housing and speedometer drive, torque bolts.
5. Install external components: clutch release bearing housing (if applicable), reverse light switch, mounts.
6. Reinstall any external covers and new gaskets/seals.

H. Bench testing before installation
1. Rotate input and output manually; check for smoothness, proper gear engagement through all gears, no unusual binding or noise.
2. Check for correct neutral position and gear selection feel.

I. Installation back into vehicle
1. Mount transmission under the vehicle carefully using transmission jack; align input shaft with clutch pilot bearing while sliding gearbox onto bellhousing studs.
2. Tighten bellhousing bolts to spec in a crisscross pattern.
3. Reconnect shift linkage, speedometer cable/sensor, driveshaft(s)/axles.
4. Refit crossmember and transmission mount, torque to spec.
5. Reconnect battery.

J. Fill with correct fluid and break‑in
1. Fill gearbox with manufacturer specified gear oil to correct level (check manual for fill point and oil type — e.g., GL‑4 75W‑90 manual gearbox oil is common but confirm).
2. Run engine, shift through gears with vehicle stationary (and parking brake set) to circulate fluid.
3. Test drive: gentle break‑in for first 500 miles (no hard launches, avoid aggressive shifting). Monitor for leaks and unusual noises.

8) Measurement and tolerances (how to measure)
- Use a dial indicator to measure:
- Mainshaft end‑float: mount indicator on case and measure axial shaft movement.
- Gear backlash: fix one gear, wiggle the mating gear and measure total movement.
- Shaft runout: mount onto a mandrel and rotate against indicator.
- Use calipers/micrometer to measure shaft diameters and wear. Compare to manual limits.
- Replace anything out of service limits.

9) Common pitfalls and troubleshooting after rebuild
- Hard shifting / binding: likely misaligned shift forks, wrong shim, or sleeve not installed correctly.
- Gear noise: could be incorrect backlash, worn bearings, or incorrect gear installation.
- Oil leak: missed seal lip orientation, damaged output shaft seal, or case bolt torque not correct.
- Too much end‑float: missing shim or incorrect shim thickness.
- Too tight (binding): excessive preload or wrong shim.
- If you hear knocking that changes with load, suspect a bearing or gear tooth issue — stop and inspect.

10) Notes specific to Toyota 4Runner (practical tips)
- Older 4Runners with manual transmissions often have well documented weak points: synchros (especially 2nd) and bearings wear with high mileage.
- Use a genuine Toyota rebuild kit or reputable aftermarket kit for internal wear parts.
- If your 4Runner has a transfer case integrated or close‑coupled design, inspect and service transfer case seals at reinstallation.
- If automatic, avoid attempting a full rebuild unless you have proper tools and bench plate; automatics require pressurized testing and valve body calibration.

11) When to seek professional help
- If you find cracks in case halves, severely damaged gears, or heavy metal contamination — consider a professional machine shop or transmission rebuilder.
- If you lack a press, dial indicator, or experience with bearing preload/shims, a pro will save time and prevent repeated failures.

12) Final checklist before first drive
- All bolts torqued to spec (use manual).
- New seals installed and checked.
- Proper oil type and level.
- Smooth gear selection on bench.
- No leftover parts.
- Safety check for mounts, linkages, and brake lines.

Closing analogy: Think of the gearbox like a Swiss clock — many precisely fitting moving parts. Reconditioning is like carefully replacing worn gears, bearings and setting the tolerances so the clock runs quietly and keeps time. Rush it or ignore tolerances and the clock will skip or jam.

That’s the complete beginner‑friendly roadmap with the detailed component descriptions and all critical steps. Use the factory service manual for model‑specific torque values, shim thickness tables, and clearance limits. Good luck — work methodically, label everything, and don’t skip measurement steps.
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