Tools & PPE (minimum)
- PPE: safety glasses, welding helmet (if welding), gloves, steel-toe boots, ear protection.
- Floor jack + quality jack stands (rated for vehicle weight).
- Wheel chocks.
- Metric socket set, ratchet, extensions, breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (0–200 ft·lb).
- Pry bar, rubber mallet.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster).
- Punch/hammer.
- Spring compressor suitable for coil-over/strut springs (outer-coil clamp style for struts) or two-piece over-the-coil compressor for off-vehicle struts.
- Impact wrench (optional) and hand tools.
- 2nd jack to support control arm/axle.
- Wire brush / grinder (for corrosion cleanup).
- Welding gear (MIG/TIG/Stick) if axle spring perch replacement required.
- Replacement parts: spring seat/insulator(s), upper strut mount and bearing (recommended), new mounting hardware if corroded, weld-on axle spring perch or new axle tube (if severe).
- Anti-seize/lubricant and rust-inhibitor paint/undercoating.

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
1. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use jack stands on solid, level ground.
2. Use wheel chocks on opposite axle.
3. Coil springs store energy—always use a proper spring compressor rated for the application and keep hands clear while decompressing.
4. If you’re not experienced welding axle perches, take the axle to a shop. Improper welds can fail catastrophically.
5. Follow factory torque specs from a service manual for your exact model/year.

Two common repair paths depending on location/type of damage
A) Replace rubber spring seat/insulator (front strut or rear coil isolator) — routine, no welding.
B) Repair/replace welded spring perch on rear axle — requires removing spring and welding.

A) Front (or rear) coil spring seat / insulator replacement (typical MacPherson strut or coil-on-shock)
Steps:
1. Prep: Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly.
2. Lift & support: Jack up vehicle and place on stands under appropriate pinch-weld or subframe points. Remove wheel.
3. Access: Remove any components blocking strut removal: sway bar end link, ABS sensor bracket, brake line bracket, stabilizer links as needed.
4. Support knuckle/control arm: Support lower control arm or knuckle with a floor jack (to control droop when bolts are removed).
5. Remove strut assembly: Remove lower strut-to-knuckle bolts (store hardware). Open hood, remove upper strut mount nuts (3) holding strut tower. Carefully lower out strut assembly.
6. Compress spring: Secure strut in a vise or place on solid bench. Install a proper coil spring compressor: clamp compressors opposite each other on spring coils, tighten evenly and alternately until spring tension is fully relieved from the top nut. Verify spring no longer binds the strut top.
7. Disassemble: Remove the strut top nut while holding piston rod from turning. Remove strut mount, dust boot, bump stop, and old spring isolator/seat.
8. Inspect parts: Check spring for cracks, strut for oil leaks or bent rod, mount bearing condition. Replace mounts/bearings if worn.
9. Install new seat/isolator: Fit new rubber isolator into spring perch (upper and/or lower as applicable). Reassemble dust boot, bump stop, mount.
10. Re-tension spring: With compressor still holding, compress until correct preload, reinstall top nut and torque to spec while holding rod. Remove compressors slowly and evenly.
11. Reinstall strut: Place strut back into vehicle, snug upper nuts, align lower bolts and torque to factory specs. Reattach brackets, sway links.
12. Recheck: Torque all fasteners to spec, reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torque lug nuts to spec, perform test drive and check alignment — an alignment is recommended after strut removal.

How the spring compressor is used
- Use a compressor that fits the coil diameter and has long jaws that hook under the coil. Mount two compressors opposite each other about 180° apart, on adjacent coils, not on the ends.
- Tighten each side a few turns alternately to keep spring straight and avoid binding. Compress until the spring no longer presses on the strut top and you can remove the top nut with a wrench.
- When releasing, slowly back off each side alternately and evenly. Never use a single-point compressor on a vehicle-installed strut unless designed for that strut type.

Common pitfalls (A)
- Using the wrong type of compressor or attaching them incorrectly — can slip and release spring violently.
- Not supporting lower control arm/knuckle — control arm can drop and cause damage/injury.
- Reusing worn strut mount bearings — causes noise and premature wear.
- Forgetting to torque to spec — loose strut bolts affect handling.

B) Rear axle spring perch (seat) repair (if perch is severely rusted or broken)
Note: Many 4Runners have welded spring perches on the axle housing that corrode. This procedure requires cutting and welding. If you’re not a welder, take axle to a shop.

Steps:
1. Lift & support: Block front wheels, jack and support rear axle with jack stands under frame (not on axle tube). Support axle with a second jack under axle housing so you can lower it as required.
2. Remove wheel and shock if needed, disconnect sway bar links and lower links to drop axle enough to remove spring.
3. Remove spring: Support axle, lower it slightly and slide spring out of old perch. Note spring orientation and end clip position. If perch is collapsed, you may need to cut away remnants.
4. Clean area: Wire brush and grind rust away on axle tube where new perch will sit. Make a flat, clean surface for weld. Degrease and clamp new perch in correct position (use factory position as reference).
5. Fit new perch: Use a bolt-on cage/perch or a weld-on perch designed for your axle. For weld-on, tack-weld in place, verify orientation and location (use opposite side as template).
6. Weld: Fully weld around perch per material spec (if axle steel, typical MIG weld with proper penetration). Grind smooth if desired, then coat with rust inhibitor/paint/undercoating.
7. Reinstall spring: After paint dries, place spring onto new perch, raise axle back to ride height and seat spring into upper seat. Reinstall shocks and links.
8. Finalize: Torque all hardware, lower vehicle, test.

Replacement parts recommended
- Rubber spring insulators/seats (upper and lower).
- Upper strut mount & bearing (replace when doing strut work).
- New top strut nut if damaged; new bolts/nuts for strut-to-knuckle if corroded.
- Weld-on replacement spring perches for rear axle if original perches are compromised.
- New coil spring only if rusted, pitted, or sagged.

Common pitfalls (B)
- Poor welds or insufficient penetration — perch can fail under load. Use a qualified welder.
- Incorrect perch positioning — spring indexing will be wrong and may come off under compression.
- Not replacing corroded fasteners — hardware failure risk.
- Not inspecting spring/pad condition — new perch on a worn pad will still cause noise.

Final checks and tips
- Always get a wheel alignment after any suspension disassembly.
- Replace strut mounts/bearings in pairs (both sides) for consistent handling.
- Use anti-seize on bolts where appropriate but follow torque specs.
- After test drive, re-torque all fasteners.
- If unsure about welding or spring compression, take it to a professional.

Done.
rteeqp73

5vzfe Swap 4runner Wiring Guide (AUS) Hello all, I do hope everybody enjoys this video. more are on the way with a sooner deadline.

Best Toyota 4Runner Suspension Deal! Eibach INSTALL & Review You don't need to spend K on a new Toyota 4Runner suspension system! I'll show you how to install a complete 4Runner lift kit, ...

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