Which 4Runner this applies to: older 4Runners with V6 timing belts (common example: 3.0L 3VZ‑E and 3.4L 5VZ‑FE engines). Many newer 4Runners (4.0L 1GR‑FE and later) use timing chains and do not have a replaceable timing belt — verify your engine first. Always have the factory service manual (FSM) or a reliable repair manual for your year/engine for exact timing marks, bolt torques, and any engine‑specific procedures.

Summary: remove accessories and covers, support engine, align timing marks, lock/relieve the tensioner, remove old belt, replace idlers/tensioner/water pump as required, install new belt with correct routing and tension, rotate engine two turns and re‑check marks, reassemble.

Tools and consumables
- Basic hand tools: 3/8" and 1/2" ratchets, extensions, sockets (metric set 8–24 mm), combination wrenches.
- Torque wrench (0–150 ft‑lb range) — required for critical fasteners.
- Long breaker bar (for stubborn crankshaft pulley bolt).
- Harmonic/crank pulley puller (M8/M10 puller set) — to remove crank pulley.
- Camshaft holding/locking tool(s) or suitable pins (check FSM for pin sizes) — to lock camshaft(s) in timing position if required.
- Pry bar and screwdrivers.
- Jack and good quality jack stands; wood block for engine support.
- Engine support bar or floor jack with a block of wood to support engine/transmission during mount removal.
- Pulley holding tool or gear holding tool (for cam/crank if needed).
- Timing belt tension gauge or service manual procedure for tension (many Toyota engines use an auto tensioner with locking pin and indicator — read instructions).
- Drain pan, gloves, eye protection.
- New timing belt kit: timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley(s). Strongly recommended to replace water pump at same time (coolant drain required), and consider crank and cam seals and accessory belt(s).
- New coolant, gasket sealant if needed, replacement bolts if FSM calls for one‑time use bolts or torque‑to‑yield parts, anti-seize and threadlocker as specified by FSM.

Safety precautions
- Work on a flat, level surface. Chock wheels and set parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting.
- Allow engine to cool completely before draining coolant or removing components.
- Use proper jack stands — never rely on the jack alone to support the vehicle.
- Support engine securely when removing mounts. Use an engine support bar or a floor jack with a block under the oil pan (block of wood to distribute load).
- Use eye protection when working under car and when using springy components.
- Keep loose clothing and jewelry away from rotating parts.
- Follow torque specs precisely — incorrect torque on crank/cam bolts can cause catastrophic failure.
- Dispose of coolant/fluids responsibly.

Step‑by‑step procedure (typical 3.4L 5VZ‑FE style sequence — adapt to FSM for your engine)
1. Preparation
- Park, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery.
- Remove undertray or splash shields if present.
- Drain coolant into pan if you plan to replace the water pump (recommended).

2. Remove accessory drive belts and components
- Remove accessory drive belt(s) and the alternator/AC/PS brackets as required for access to timing cover.
- Remove the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer): loosen the crank pulley bolt. Use a breaker bar or impact gun. Use a pulley holding tool or have an assistant hold the belt pulley. If pulley is stuck, use a harmonic balancer puller to remove it (attach puller bolts into pulley, turn center bolt to draw pulley off). Note: crank pulley bolt is torqued very high — use care.

3. Support engine and remove engine mount(s)
- Support engine from below (jack with wood block under oil pan) or with an engine support tool.
- Remove the passenger side engine mount or other mounts as needed to gain access to timing covers and belt routing.

4. Remove timing covers
- Remove all bolts for upper and lower timing covers. Keep track of bolts and cover orientation.

5. Set engine to Top Dead Center (TDC)
- Rotate crankshaft by hand (using breaker bar on crank bolt) to align crankshaft timing mark to TDC mark on the timing cover or crank pulley boss. Refer to FSM for exact mark positions.
- Verify camshaft timing marks align to their specified marks. If your engine has two cam sprockets, both must match the FSM alignment. If cams do not align, do not force them — recheck crank position.

6. Lock camshafts and/or crankshaft (if applicable)
- Install locking pins or use the cam holding tool specified by the FSM to keep camshafts fixed while you remove the belt. If your engine uses an automatic tensioner with a lock pin, insert the pin after relieving tension (see next step).

7. Release timing belt tension
- Loosen the timing belt tensioner. On many Toyota V6 engines the tensioner is an automatic tensioner with a small hex or bolt for rotating it; rotate/relieve the tension to insert the lock pin and remove the belt. Follow FSM for the exact method. Do not pry the belt off while tension is on.

8. Remove timing belt and inspect components
- Slide the belt off the sprockets. Inspect belt condition and note wear pattern. Remove idler pulleys and the tensioner assembly.

9. Replace parts (recommended)
- Install new idler pulleys and tensioner from the timing belt kit (replace bearings). If replacing water pump, remove old water pump and install new pump with new gasket/seal — torque bolts to spec.
- Replace camshaft and crankshaft seals if oil is present or if seals are old.
- Replace bolts that FSM calls one‑time use.

10. Clean and prepare
- Clean mating surfaces and ensure pulleys rotate freely. Check the timing marks again — re‑set to TDC if anything moved during component replacement.

11. Install new timing belt
- Route the new belt over the crank sprocket, up around the idlers and cam sprockets following the manufacturer routing. Leave the belt off the tensioner side last so you can ensure tautness on the opposite span.
- Make sure the timing marks still align: crank and cam marks must be perfectly aligned to their TDC marks. If they aren’t, remove belt and realign cams/crank.

12. Tension the belt
- Reinstall/engage the tensioner. For spring/hydraulic Toyota tensioners: release the tensioner so it applies tension to the belt, then insert the tensioner locking pin only if required by procedure. Some procedures call for rotating the crank two full turns to set the tensioner, then reinstalling the pin and verifying the tension indicator window is in spec.
- If using a manual tensioner or if FSM specifies a belt deflection measurement, use a tension gauge or measure deflection at a specific span with specified force and adjust per FSM.
- Key point: do not overtighten the belt — excessive tension shortens bearing life; too loose and timing will slip.

13. Verify timing and rotate engine
- With belt and tensioner set, remove any cam/crank locking pins (if required by FSM, remove in the correct sequence).
- Rotate the crankshaft by hand clockwise two full revolutions (720°) and stop at TDC. Re‑check all timing marks — they must return to the correct indexed positions. If they don’t, recheck belt installation and tension.

14. Reassembly
- Reinstall timing covers with new gaskets/sealant as needed; torque bolts to spec.
- Reinstall crank pulley (torque to FSM spec — use new crank bolt if specified or apply required threadlocker). Reinstall accessory belts, engine mount(s), and any removed components.
- Refill coolant (if water pump replaced), bleed cooling system per FSM.
- Reconnect battery.

15. Start engine and check
- Start engine and listen for abnormal noises (rubbing, squeal, slapping). Check for leaks (coolant, oil).
- Let engine reach operating temperature and recheck timing and belt area for proper operation.
- After a short test drive, re‑inspect tensioner and pulleys for proper installation.

How the specific tools are used (concise)
- Harmonic/crank pulley puller: bolt the puller plate to the pulley with supplied bolts, then turn the center forcing screw to draw the pulley off the crank snout. Use even pressure. If bolt is extremely tight, remove bolt first; use impact gun or breaker bar to loosen.
- Engine support jack/floor jack with wood block: position under oil pan with wood to avoid denting pan; lift slightly to take weight before removing engine mount bolts.
- Cam holding/locking tool or pins: install at specified locations to lock camshaft sprockets in position; prevents cam rotation when belt is removed.
- Tensioner locking pin: on auto tensioners, rotate tensioner to relieve spring pressure, insert pin to hold tensioner retracted while you remove/install belt. After belt installed, remove pin to let tensioner apply spring tension. Some tensioners require rotating with a hex socket to set free length.
- Torque wrench: tighten fasteners to FSM specified torque. For critical fasteners (crank pulley, cam bolts), use correct settings — undertorque = loosening risk; overtorque = bolt/stud failure.
- Timing belt tension gauge (if used): clamp or press gauge per instructions to measure belt tension and adjust until within spec.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not confirming engine type: some 4Runners have timing chains; do not search for a belt where none exists.
- Incorrect timing mark alignment: ALWAYS double‑check timing marks before and after belt installation. Misalignment leads to poor running or engine damage (on interference engines).
- Not supporting the engine: removing mounts without supporting the engine can damage mounts or injure you.
- Reusing worn tensioners/idlers/water pump: they are low cost compared to the labor — replace them with the belt to avoid premature failure.
- Incorrect belt routing: take photos before removal or mark belt direction and routing. Install belt with the proper side out (new belts have directional arrows).
- Improper tension: too tight = premature bearing failure; too loose = skipped teeth. Use FSM method or tension gauge.
- Overturning cam/crank while components removed: always lock cams/crank as directed and do not rotate the engine with belt off except to reposition by hand for alignment as per FSM.
- Reusing the crankshaft bolt without checking spec: some OEM bolts are torque‑to‑yield or must be replaced.
- Not replacing coolant when replacing water pump, or failing to properly bleed the cooling system causing overheating.

Replacement parts recommended
- Timing belt (OEM or quality aftermarket)
- Tensioner (hydraulic or spring‑loaded)
- All idler pulleys in the belt path
- Water pump (strongly recommended)
- Cam and crank seals if leaking or old
- Accessory belts if worn
- Gaskets/seals for covers and water pump, new bolts if FSM specifies one‑time use
- Coolant (new, mixed to spec)

Final notes
- This job requires mechanical experience and proper tools. If you are not confident or lack the FSM for your exact engine, have a professional perform the replacement.
- Always use the factory service manual for your year/engine for exact timing marks, bolt torques, sequence of pin removal, and tension values — those specifics are critical.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

Toyota 4Runner Transmission. Why is it so reliable? The Toyota 4runner transmission. Why is it so reliable? A Toyota Master Diagnostic Technician goes into a deep dive into the ...

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