Quick overview
- Suspension geometry (alignment) = the angles and positions of the wheels relative to the car and to each other. The three primary wheel angles are toe, camber, and caster. Correct geometry makes the 4Runner track straight, steer predictably, and wear tires evenly.
- Why it matters: misaligned wheels cause uneven tire wear, pulling, poor handling, reduced fuel economy, and can be unsafe at speed.

Theory (what each angle does — think in simple analogies)
- Toe — how the front of the wheels point relative to each other (toe‑in = fronts closer; toe‑out = fronts farther apart). Analogy: feet pointing slightly inward or outward while walking. Too much toe causes twitchy steering, rapid tire edge wear, and instability.
- Camber — the tilt of the wheel in/out at the top. Analogy: a cyclist who leans the bike slightly inward for a turn. Negative camber gives cornering grip but excessive negative camber wears inner tire edges and reduces straight-line stability.
- Caster — the forward/backward tilt of the steering axis (viewed from the side). Analogy: the rake of a shopping cart wheel — positive caster helps the wheel self-center and improves straight-line stability; too little hurts returnability and stability.
- Thrust angle / rear alignment — how the rear wheels line up relative to the centerline of the vehicle. If rear thrust is off, the car may “dog track” (rear out of line) even if front toe looks OK.

How the system works (components and what they do)
- Wheel hub / bearing assembly: the rotating hub and bearing that the wheel mounts to; houses the wheel studs and provides the reference for wheel mounting.
- Steering knuckle / spindle: connects the wheel hub to the suspension and steering components; pivots when you turn the wheel.
- Strut / shock absorber (damper): controls suspension motion and, in many 4Runners, is part of the front suspension assembly that sets ride height and supports the wheel.
- Coil spring / leaf spring (rear depends on year): supports vehicle weight and determines ride height; changes in ride height change suspension geometry.
- Upper and lower control arms (A-arms): locate the wheel laterally and longitudinally; bushings and ball joints allow controlled motion. Many alignment adjustments change the position of these arms relative to the chassis.
- Ball joints: pivot points between knuckle and control arms; wear changes wheel alignment under load/steer.
- Tie rod ends and steering rack / steering gearbox: transmit input from steering wheel to knuckle; tie rods set toe when party of the outer/inner tie rod lengths are changed.
- Sway bar and end links: control roll stiffness and lateral control; worn links can affect perceived alignment/handling.
- Bushings (rubber/urethane): in control arms, sway bar mounts, etc. Worn bushings allow movement under load and make alignment not hold.
- Adjustment hardware (varies by year/model):
- Eccentric cam bolts or cam washers: provide small movement to change camber/caster on some control arms or strut mounts.
- Adjustable control arms or adjustable track bars: allow larger corrections (especially common on lifted trucks).
- Tie-rod sleeves or turnbuckle type tie-rod joints: used to change toe.
- Shims (under cradle, control arm, or axle seats): factory method on some Toyotas to correct alignment or thrust angle.

Model differences (general note)
- Toyota 4Runner suspension type and adjustment points vary by year and trim. Early 4Runners (and some later models) have solid rear axle or live axle with leaf or coil springs; others use independent rear suspension (much rarer). The location and method of adjustments (shim vs eccentric bolt vs adjustable arm) depend on the year. Consult the factory service manual for your model for exact parts and nominal specs.

Why repair/adjustment is needed (causes of misalignment)
- Normal wear: ball joints, tie rod ends, and bushings deteriorate and let geometry move.
- Impacts: potholes, curbs, off-road hits and collisions can bend control arms, tie rods, knuckles, or change caster/camber.
- Ride height change: sagging springs, changed springs (lowering/ lifting kits), or heavy loads change camber and caster.
- After replacing suspension parts: new bushings or arms typically need alignment.
- Accumulated play: wheel bearings, loose fasteners, worn shocks allow geometry to shift under load.

Symptoms of bad geometry (what you’ll notice)
- Uneven tire wear (inner or outer edges worn faster).
- Vehicle pulls to one side or steering wheel is off-center when driving straight.
- Wandering or unstable high‑speed behavior; poor return-to-center of steering.
- Clunking, looseness, or binding over bumps (signs of worn components).
- Excessive or rapid tire wear despite tire rotation.

What can go wrong (if ignored or adjusted incorrectly)
- Safety: poor stopping or steering stability at speed; increased risk in evasive maneuvers.
- Accelerated tire wear: may require premature tire replacement.
- Component damage: misalignment increases loads on bearings, ball joints, and bushings, shortening their life.
- Handling issues: over‑correcting toe or camber can make steering twitchy or numb.
- Non‑holding adjustments: worn or damaged parts will not allow alignment to stay in spec even if temporarily adjusted.

Conceptual description of how adjustments are made (non‑procedural)
- Toe is usually set by changing the effective length of the tie-rod between the steering rack/gear and the knuckle (turning the tie‑rod in or out). A wheel alignment machine measures toe and technicians modify tie-rod length until toe is within specification.
- Camber/caster is set by repositioning the control arm mounts or strut tops, using eccentric cams/bolts, adjustable arms, or shims — this moves the knuckle in/out and forward/back relative to the car to achieve the desired tilt (camber) and steering axis rake (caster).
- Thrust angle or rear toe is set by adjusting rear lateral locating arms, shims, or adjustable links so the rear axle points straight down the vehicle centerline.
- On lifted or modified 4Runners you may need aftermarket adjustable control arms or caster/camber correction brackets because stock geometry changes with lift and cannot be corrected with factory hardware alone.
- A proper alignment is done with the vehicle loaded to normal weight (fluids, spare, driver), on an alignment rack that measures the three main angles per wheel and displays readings to the technician while adjustments are made.

Inspection checklist (what to check before attempting adjustments)
- Tires: inflation, tread wear pattern, and tire condition.
- Visual: bent components, damaged knuckles, leaking shocks, broken springs.
- Play: check ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, control arm bushings for excessive play.
- Ride height: measure or eyeball; sagging springs change geometry.
- Fasteners: check for loose nuts/bolts on suspension and steering links.

Tools and equipment (conceptual list; do not follow as procedure)
- Wheel alignment machine or service (preferred).
- Basic suspension tools: sockets/wrenches, pry bars, punch/hammer for stubborn hardware (if replacing parts).
- Specialty parts for some fixes: replacement control arms, adjustable arms, cam bolts, shims.
- Torque wrench and factory torque specs (critical for reassembly).
- Full service manual for your model (specs, diagrams, and safe procedures).

Safety and best practice (non‑procedural)
- Alignment is precision work. Incorrect adjustments degrade safety. If you’re not trained or lack an alignment rack and proper measuring tools, the safe option is a professional alignment shop.
- Replace worn components first: alignment will not “fix” play in ball joints, tie rods, or bushings.
- Use factory specs and procedures for your exact year/model for measurements and torque values.
- After any suspension work, test drive carefully at low speed to verify behavior, and then have a professional alignment check if you performed any corrective work yourself.

Practical recommendation (short)
- Learn to do a thorough inspection and to identify worn/bent parts, but let a shop with a computerized alignment rack set the final toe/camber/caster to factory specs — especially after part replacement or if the vehicle has been lifted or had an impact.

If you need, look up the factory service manual for your 4Runner’s model year for exact adjustment points and specifications — they vary by year and neglecting those specifics risks unsafe or ineffective adjustments.
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