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Toyota 4Runner 1996-2002 factory workshop and repair manual download

- Safety first
- Work on a flat, level surface with the parking brake off and wheel chocks behind the opposite wheels.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and closed-toe shoes.
- Do not rely on the jack alone — always use properly rated jack stands.
- If you feel unsure at any point, stop and consult a professional.

- Overview of what you’ll do
- Remove wheel, remove brake caliper and pads, remove caliper bracket if needed, remove old rotor, clean hub, fit new rotor, reinstall bracket/caliper/pads, torque fasteners to spec, bed-in new parts.
- Replace brake pads whenever you replace rotors unless pads have lots of life and look factory-smooth — new rotors + worn pads will cause fast wear and noise.

- Tools (detailed description and how to use each)
- Floor jack (hydraulic)
- Purpose: lifts the vehicle so you can put it on jack stands.
- Use: place under the manufacturer-approved jacking point, pump handle to raise. Only use to lift, not to support.
- Jack stands (pair)
- Purpose: safely support vehicle while you work.
- Use: place on stable contact points, lower vehicle slowly onto stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Wheel chocks
- Purpose: prevent vehicle rolling.
- Use: place behind the wheels that stay on the ground.
- Lug wrench or breaker bar with correct socket (commonly 19 mm or 21 mm for Toyota lugs; verify your lug size)
- Purpose: loosen and tighten lug nuts.
- Use: break lug nuts loose before lifting. Tighten hand-tight on reinstallation and final-torque when the wheel is on the ground.
- Torque wrench (click-type, ft·lb/N·m scale)
- Purpose: apply correct torque to lug nuts and critical bolts.
- Use: set specified torque, tighten until wrench clicks. Essential for safe wheel fastening.
- Socket set and ratchet (metric sockets)
- Purpose: remove caliper bolts, bracket bolts, axle nuts, retaining screws.
- Use: choose proper socket for bolt, use breaker bar for stuck bolts, ratchet for removal.
- Allen/hex or Torx bits (if required by caliper bolts)
- Purpose: some caliper bolts use hex or Torx heads.
- Use: fit tightly to avoid rounding heads.
- C-clamp or brake caliper piston tool
- Purpose: compress the caliper piston back into the caliper to make room for new pads.
- Use: place against piston and slowly tighten until piston is flush. For some vehicles use a disk-style tool to rotate piston inwards (parking-brake integrated pistons).
- Bungee cord or wire hanger
- Purpose: hang the caliper so it does not dangle by the brake hose.
- Use: hook caliper and hang from suspension spring or strut. Never let hose carry caliper weight.
- Rubber mallet or hammer
- Purpose: help free a seized rotor from rusted hub.
- Use: strike rotor face at several places around circumference, not the hub mating surface or studs.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist Penetrant)
- Purpose: loosen seized bolts or stuck rotor.
- Use: spray on screws/bolts and around hub, wait a few minutes.
- Wire brush / scrapper
- Purpose: clean corrosion from hub and bracket mating surfaces.
- Use: remove rust so rotor seats flat.
- Brake cleaner aerosol
- Purpose: remove grease and brake dust from rotor and hub.
- Use: spray freely and let evaporate; do not inhale fumes.
- Anti-seize compound (small amount)
- Purpose: prevent rotor from seizing to hub and prevent corrosion.
- Use: thin layer on hub center (not on friction surfaces and avoid contaminating pads).
- Thread locker (blue, medium-strength) — optional
- Purpose: keep small bolts (retainer screws) from backing out.
- Use: light dab on threads if OEM used it; avoid on high-torque bolts unless specified.
- Brake pad grease / high-temp silicone paste
- Purpose: lubricate pad contact points to prevent squeal and ensure sliding.
- Use: small dab on pad backing plate contact points and slider pins (do not get on friction surface).
- Pry bar or flat screwdriver
- Purpose: help remove old pads or pry off caliper bracket if tight.
- Use: be careful not to damage seals or hoses.
- Impact wrench — optional (makes removal faster)
- Why optional: speeds removal of lug nuts and bolts but not required. Use with care; still torque critical fasteners with a torque wrench.
- Rotor puller — optional
- Why optional: useful if rotor is heavily rusted and won’t come off after hammering.

- Parts you will likely need (and why)
- Brake rotors (front and/or rear)
- Why: damaged, warped, or below minimum thickness requires replacement. New rotors give smooth braking and avoid vibration.
- What to buy: OEM or high-quality aftermarket rotors sized to your 4Runner year/trim. Choose “plain” or “slotted/drilled” per preference; plain is fine for daily driving.
- Brake pads (recommended)
- Why: new rotors should be paired with new pads to prevent glazing and uneven wear.
- What to buy: pad kit specifically for your 4Runner. Semi-metallic or ceramic pads depending on performance and noise preferences.
- Caliper hardware kit / slide pins / boots
- Why: worn or corroded hardware causes sticking calipers and uneven pad wear.
- What to buy: hardware kit that matches your caliper type.
- Retaining screws (if present)
- Why: some rotors have small screws that thread into the hub; replace if rusted/stripped.
- Brake fluid — optional
- Why: if you open hydraulic lines or need to bleed brakes; check fluid level and condition.
- Wheel hub bearings — inspect, replace only if noisy or play present.
- Why: bad bearings make rotor wobble; rotors may need replacement if hub is damaged.

- Preparatory checks
- Verify you have the correct rotors and pads for your model year and front or rear side.
- Check parking brake type — if rear rotor has an integrated parking brake drum inside rotor, you’ll need the special tool or method to retract parking-brake shoes before removing rotor.
- Look up torque specs in your owner’s manual or repair manual (lug nuts and caliper/bracket bolts).

- Step-by-step procedure (general; follow vehicle-specific manual for torque specs and any special steps)
- Secure car
- Chock rear wheels (if working front) or front wheels (if working rear).
- Loosen lug nuts slightly with the lug wrench while car is on the ground.
- Lift and support
- Position floor jack at the recommended jacking point and lift until wheel clears ground.
- Place jack stand under solid frame point, lower vehicle onto stands. Give the vehicle a gentle shake to ensure stability.
- Remove wheel
- Remove lug nuts and wheel. Set wheel flat or under vehicle as secondary support (optional).
- Remove caliper
- Locate caliper guide pins/bolts. Use the correct socket or hex bit to remove them.
- If bolts are stuck, apply penetrating oil and tap with a hammer carefully.
- Pull caliper off rotor. Do not let it hang by the brake hose — hang with bungee cord or wire.
- Remove pads and inspect
- Pull out outer and inner pads. Note orientation and any shims.
- Inspect pads for uneven wear. Replace if thin, contaminated, or glazed.
- Remove caliper bracket (if rotor won’t clear with bracket in place)
- Remove the bracket bolts using appropriate socket.
- Hang bracket aside.
- Remove rotor
- If rotor is held by a small retaining screw, remove it (use correct screwdriver; sometimes Phillips or 5 mm hex).
- If stuck to hub from rust, spray penetrating oil at the hub-to-rotor seam and strike rotor face with a rubber mallet in several places.
- If still stuck, use a rotor puller or carefully pry where safe.
- Clean hub and mating surfaces
- Use wire brush to remove rust and high spots. Wipe with brake cleaner and a rag.
- Apply a thin layer of anti-seize to hub center (avoid surfaces that contact the rotor friction area).
- Install new rotor
- Slide rotor onto hub. Verify it seats flush. Replace rotor retaining screw if present.
- If rotor is directional (slotted/drilled), ensure correct rotation direction.
- Reinstall caliper bracket (if removed)
- Clean bolt threads, apply thread locker if OEM used, torque bolts to spec.
- Install new pads and grease
- Place pads in caliper bracket/piston area with shims as original.
- Apply a small amount of brake grease to pad contact points and slide pins.
- Compress caliper piston
- Use C-clamp or piston tool against the old pad and piston to slowly push piston fully back into caliper.
- If vehicle has rear parking-brake-integrated caliper, use the appropriate rotating piston tool and rotate piston in, not just push.
- Reinstall caliper over pads and rotor
- Align and reinstall caliper bolts, torque to manufacturer spec.
- Reinstall wheel and lug nuts
- Put wheel on, hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower vehicle until wheel touches ground slightly, then torque lug nuts to specified torque in a criss-cross star pattern using torque wrench.
- Final steps
- Lower vehicle fully and remove jack and stands.
- Pump brake pedal several times to seat pads against rotors before driving.
- Check brake fluid level and top off if needed.
- Test drive at low speed, make several gradual stops to check for noise, vibration, and proper braking.
- Re-torque lug nuts after 50–100 miles (vehicle-specific practice).

- Bedding-in (break-in) new pads/rotors
- Perform 8–10 moderate stops from 25–35 mph to about 5–10 mph (use other lane or safe area).
- Allow brakes to cool between sequences if they feel hot.
- Avoid hard stops for first 200 miles.

- Common problems and remedies
- Rotor stuck on hub
- Use penetrating oil, rubber mallet, or rotor puller. Don’t grind the rotor faces.
- Caliper piston won’t compress
- Ensure parking brake is released. Use correct rotating tool for rear integrated pistons.
- Brake pulsation or vibration after install
- Check rotor seat surface (clean hub), ensure rotor is not warped, torque lug nuts correctly, check wheel bearings for play.

- When to replace additional parts
- Replace pads with rotors: recommended for even contact and longevity.
- Replace slide pins/boots and hardware: if corroded, seized, or torn.
- Replace rotor retaining screws and caliper bolts: if bolts are rounded or threads damaged.
- Inspect wheel bearings/hub: if there’s play/noise, replace bearings; a bad hub will cause rotor wobble.
- Replace brake fluid: if contaminated or you had to open the hydraulic system and bleeding is required.

- Final safety reminders
- Use correct torque values for lug nuts and suspension/caliper bolts (consult the factory manual — common lug torque range 76–83 ft·lb but check your manual).
- Do not drive until the brake pedal is firm and brakes are functioning properly.
- If brakes feel soft or you see leaks, stop and have a qualified mechanic inspect.

- Quick parts checklist to buy before you start
- Correct front and/or rear rotors for your year/model
- Matching brake pads
- Caliper hardware kit / slide pins / boots
- Brake cleaner, anti-seize, pad grease
- Optional: retaining screws, thread locker, new lug nuts (if damaged)

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