Tools needed
- Metric socket set (including correct large socket for crank bolt), breaker bar, long extensions
- Torque wrench (appropriate range)
- Harmonic balancer (crank pulley) puller (3‑jaw or 2‑bolt type) with center forcing screw
- Harmonic balancer installer/press (screw‑type installer or small arbor press and correct adapter)
- Pulley/crank holding tool or heavy strap wrench
- Seal driver or appropriately sized socket for installing front crank seal
- New crankshaft main bolt and washer (OEM or specified replacement; many are single‑use torque‑to‑yield)
- New front crankshaft seal (recommended whenever balancer is removed)
- Penetrating oil, anti‑seize/thread locker (per shop manual), shop rags
- Floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses, gloves

Safety precautions
- Work on a level surface, chock rear wheels. Support vehicle with jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- Use proper tools; don’t use makeshift methods that can slip and cause injury.
- If using an impact gun, control the tool to avoid sudden torque and damage. Follow torque specs exactly when installing crank bolt.

Step‑by‑step — removal
1. Prepare: Park, chock rear wheels, disconnect negative battery. Raise and support front on jack stands if lower access is required.
2. Remove obstructions: Remove engine cover, accessory drive belt(s) (relieve tensioner and slide belts off), fan and shroud if necessary, and lower splash shield to access the crank pulley.
3. Mark orientation: Mark the pulley and belt routing or take photos for reassembly.
4. Prevent crank rotation: Use a crank pulley holding tool or heavy strap wrench on the balancer to stop crank from turning. DO NOT rely on parking pawl/gear to hold the engine for high‑torque breaks.
5. Loosen crank bolt: Apply penetrating oil to the bolt if needed. Use the correct sized deep socket on a long breaker bar or an impact wrench to break the crank bolt loose while holding the pulley steady. Expect a very high torque — be prepared.
6. Remove bolt and washer: Take the crank bolt and any washer off and set aside (assume bolt is single‑use unless manual states otherwise).
7. Attach balancer puller: Thread the puller bolts into the threaded holes on the balancer (do NOT pull against the balancer’s outer ring unless the puller is designed for it). Center the forcing screw on the crank snout and tighten evenly — the balancer will slide off the crank snout. If the balancer is rusted, apply penetrating oil and let soak before forcing.
8. Inspect: Remove the balancer. Inspect crank snout, keyway, and the inside of the balancer. Check the rubber damper (if present) for deterioration. Remove old front crank seal carefully with a seal puller, avoiding damage to the crank surface.

How the puller is used: screw the puller’s outer bolts into the balancer, then turn the puller’s center screw (or use the forcing rod) so it presses against the crank snout while pulling the balancer off. Tighten the center screw gradually and evenly until the balancer comes free. Use correct thread engagement on the puller bolts.

Step‑by‑step — installation
1. Replace parts: Fit a new front crankshaft seal (use a seal driver). Replace the harmonic balancer if damaged or the rubber damper shows failure. Use a new crankshaft bolt and washer if the bolt is specified as single‑use.
2. Clean and align: Clean crank snout. Check key/keyway and install the key (if used). Hand‑start the balancer onto the snout, aligning the keyway so it slides on as far as it will by hand.
3. Use installer to press on balancer: Use a harmonic balancer installer (threaded rod and thrust plate) that presses on the hub or inner diameter specified by the tool instructions — NOT the outer damper ring. Thread the installer through the crank bolt hole and pull the balancer evenly onto the crank until it is fully seated to the specified depth. Tighten evenly; do not hammer on the outer ring (this will damage the damper).
4. Torque the bolt: Install the new crank bolt and washer. Tighten to factory torque (or torque + angle if specified) using a calibrated torque wrench and following the factory sequence. If the bolt is torque‑to‑yield, replace it and follow the exact torque/angle procedure in the factory manual.
5. Reassemble: Reinstall splash shields, belt(s) and any removed accessories. Ensure belts are routed and tensioned correctly. Reconnect battery.
6. Final check: Start engine and inspect for leaks or abnormal vibration. Re‑check torque after initial run if recommended by manual.

How the installer is used: the installer kit includes an adapter that threads into the crank or bears on the crank snout and a plate that presses on the inner hub of the balancer. Tighten the installer’s central nut/screw so the balancer is pushed straight on; this prevents cocking and protects the rubber damper. Use the correct adapter so pressure is applied to the proper seating surface.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Using a hammer or prying off the balancer: this can destroy the rubber damper or distort the balancer. Always use a puller and installer.
- Reusing crank bolt when it’s torque‑to‑yield: always replace with new specified bolt.
- Pressing on the outer ring during installation: will damage the damper. Use the correct installer and apply pressure to the inner hub as specified.
- Improper seating depth: not seating balancer fully or cocking it will cause vibration and premature seal failure — press it on straight to specified stop.
- Not replacing front crank seal: removing/pressing the balancer often damages the seal — replace it while everything is apart.
- Failing to torque bolt to spec: under‑torque leads to loosening; over‑torque can stretch/damage the bolt or crank threads. Follow factory torque/angle instructions.
- Damaged key/keyway: inspect and replace the woodruff key if worn; misalignment will prevent full seating.
- Holding the engine incorrectly when removing/torquing the bolt: use a proper holding tool or impact gun rather than relying on transmission gear or improvised methods.

Replacement parts usually required or recommended
- New harmonic balancer (if original shows wear, wobble, or delamination)
- New front crankshaft seal
- New crankshaft main bolt and washer (if specified as single‑use or torque‑to‑yield)
- Woodruff key (if worn)
- Belt(s) if worn

Final notes
- Consult the vehicle’s factory service manual for exact crank bolt torque, torque‑angle procedures, seating depth, and any engine‑specific steps (some 4Runners and engines have model‑specific differences).
- Use OEM or quality aftermarket parts for the balancer and seal to avoid vibration and premature failure.

End of procedure.
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