- Scope and high-level note
- This guide covers removing and replacing (or servicing) a crankshaft on a Toyota 4Runner at a high level for a complete beginner. Exact steps, bolt torques, and sequences depend on the year and engine (common engines: 3.4L 5VZ-FE, 4.0L 1GR-FE). Always use the vehicle’s factory service manual for torque specs and detailed sequences. Safety first: if you are unsure or lack equipment, get professional help.

- Safety essentials
- Wear safety glasses, mechanic gloves, and steel-toe shoes.
- Work on a flat level surface and support the vehicle on quality jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect the battery before starting.
- Drain engine oil and coolant safely into appropriate containers and dispose per local laws.
- Keep a clean workspace and label hoses/electrical connectors during disassembly.

- Required basic tools (what they are and how to use them)
- Socket set (metric, 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drive) and ratchets
- Description: Sockets fit nuts/bolts; ratchets give leverage and allow fast removal.
- How to use: Match socket to fastener, push onto ratchet, pull or push the handle to loosen/tighten. Use extensions to reach recessed bolts.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- Description: Open-end and box-end wrenches for tight spaces or where a socket won’t fit.
- How to use: Place box-end on fastener and pull; use correct size to avoid rounding bolts.
- Torque wrench (click-style, appropriate range, e.g., 10–150 ft·lb)
- Description: Ensures bolts are tightened to factory torque.
- How to use: Set desired torque value, tighten until the wrench clicks. Calibrate periodically.
- Breaker bar
- Description: Long non-ratcheting bar for loosening stubborn bolts.
- How to use: Use with proper socket; position to pull smoothly—don’t use sudden jerks.
- Impact wrench (air or electric) — optional but speeds work
- Description: Rapidly loosens/tightens bolts; powerful.
- How to use: Use appropriate sockets, be careful when tightening—finish with a torque wrench.
- Screwdrivers and pry bars
- Description: For removing clamps, prying parts loose, and aligning components.
- How to use: Use pry bars gently to avoid gouging mating surfaces; screwdrivers for clips and screws.
- Hammer and dead-blow hammer
- Description: For persuading stuck parts free without damaging them (dead-blow reduces rebound).
- How to use: Tap gently and progressively; avoid damaging threads and seals.
- Pliers set (needle-nose, slip-joint, locking)
- Description: For hose clamps, clips, and pulling wires.
- How to use: Grip and squeeze; use locking pliers to hold components when needed.
- Engine hoist (cherry picker) with load-rated chain/engine sling
- Description: Lifts the engine out of the vehicle safely.
- How to use: Attach chain to engine lifting points, take up slack slowly, lift vertically and guide with an assistant; follow hoist load limits.
- Engine stand
- Description: Supports the engine block for teardown and reassembly.
- How to use: Bolt the engine to the stand adapter plate evenly; rotate as needed to access work area.
- Transmission jack or floor jack with adapter
- Description: Supports and lowers the transmission or allows engine removal when unbolting mounts.
- How to use: Position under transmission/engine subframe, raise or lower slowly and keep balanced.
- Harmonic balancer / crank pulley puller (3-jaw or two-bolt style)
- Description: Specialized puller to remove crank pulley without damage.
- How to use: Thread puller bolts into balancer or use factory bolt and puller; turn center screw slowly to press balancer off snout.
- Flywheel or flexplate holding tool
- Description: Holds the flywheel/torque converter to prevent crank rotation when loosening/tightening the crank bolt.
- How to use: Engage the tool to flywheel teeth and apply breaker bar/impact wrench.
- Micrometer and dial caliper
- Description: Measure journal diameters, thickness, and clearances precisely.
- How to use: Zero the tool, measure across the journal or part, take multiple readings at different positions.
- Plastigauge
- Description: Thin plastic strip used to measure bearing clearances.
- How to use: Lay a strip on the journal, install bearing cap and torque to spec, remove cap and compare flattened width to gauge chart.
- Feeler gauges and feeler blocks
- Description: Measure small gaps such as thrust clearance and shims.
- How to use: Slide gauges into gaps to find maximum thickness that fits.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base
- Description: Measures crankshaft endplay and runout.
- How to use: Mount base to engine, contact indicator tip to crank flange, zero, then move crank and read movement.
- Torque angle gauge (if required by torque spec)
- Description: Measures rotational angle for torque-to-angle bolts.
- How to use: Attach to wrench and rotate bolt specified degrees after initial torque.
- Seal installer and driver set
- Description: Tools to press seals in squarely without damage.
- How to use: Choose correct diameter driver and tap seal in evenly until flush.
- Gasket scrapers and cleaning brushes
- Description: Remove old gasket material and clean surfaces before reassembly.
- How to use: Scrape gently to avoid gouging surfaces; use solvent and brushes to clean oil passages.
- Shop manual or factory service information
- Description: Contains step-by-step procedures, torque specs, clearances, and sequences for your specific model.
- How to use: Follow the manual for your engine code and year for critical values.

- Extra or specialty tools often required (and why)
- Cylinder head and engine lifting brackets (if different from general hoist chains)
- Why: Provide safe, correct attachment points for lifting specific engine types.
- Torque-to-yield (TTY) bolt replacements and angle gauge
- Why: Many main and rod bolts are single-use and require angle tightening; must be replaced for safety.
- Main bearing cap alignment/line hone tool (or shop service)
- Why: Removing caps and reinstalling may require align-honing to ensure straight bores; often done by machine shop.
- Crankshaft grinding or polishing equipment (machine shop)
- Why: If journals are scored or out of spec, the crank may need grinding and undersize bearings; requires professional machining.
- Rear main seal installer specific to Toyota
- Why: Proper seating prevents leaks; incorrect install causes immediate oil leaks.
- Service-level measuring tools (micrometers, bore gauges, plastigauge)
- Why: Accurate measurement of bore and journal clearances is critical to engine longevity.
- Flywheel/torque converter holding tool specific to engine/transmission
- Why: Prevents rotation during crank bolt removal; some engines need specific fit.

- Typical parts that must be replaced or inspected (why and what)
- Crankshaft (replacement or regrind)
- Why: Replace if cracked, twisted, or journals are severely scored beyond undersize limits; regrind if minor scoring within machine shop limits.
- What: OEM or correctly ground aftermarket crank; may require new keyways and balancing.
- Main bearings and rod bearings
- Why: Bearings are sacrificial and usually replaced whenever crankshaft is removed or reworked; worn bearings cause low oil pressure and knock.
- What: New bearing sets matched to crank journal size (standard or undersize).
- Main cap bolts and rod bolts (especially torque-to-yield)
- Why: TTY bolts stretch and should be replaced when removed.
- What: OEM-specified replacement bolts.
- Thrust washers
- Why: If endplay is excessive or washers are worn, replace to restore crank endplay control.
- What: New thrust washers sized to spec.
- Rear main seal and front crank seal
- Why: Seals are disturbed during disassembly and often leak with age—replace to ensure no leaks.
- What: OEM-quality seals and proper installer.
- Harmonic balancer / crank pulley
- Why: Damaged or decayed balancer dampers contribute to crank runout and vibration; replacing is common during crank service.
- What: New harmonic balancer and bolt/seal as needed.
- Timing chain or belt, tensioner, guides, sprockets
- Why: When tearing the front timing cover or removing crank, these parts are exposed and often replaced as preventative maintenance.
- What: Complete timing kit recommended.
- Oil pump
- Why: Worn pumps reduce oil pressure; access during engine rebuild makes replacement sensible.
- What: New oil pump (OEM or quality aftermarket).
- Gaskets and seals (timing cover, oil pan, front cover, valve cover, etc.)
- Why: Always replace gaskets to prevent leaks.
- What: Full gasket set for the engine.
- Bolts and hardware (various)
- Why: Corroded or damaged bolts should be replaced.
- What: OEM or high-quality equivalents.

- High-level procedure steps (summary, not exhaustive torque values)
- Preparation and documentation
- Gather service manual for your model/year/engine.
- Label and photograph wiring, hoses, and brackets as you remove them for easier reassembly.
- Remove engine accessories and ancillaries
- Disconnect battery, drain fluids, remove intake, exhaust manifolds as required, remove radiator and cooling hoses if needed for clearance.
- Remove drive belts, alternator, power steering pump (support or remove), A/C compressor (unbolt and hang—do not discharge refrigerant yourself).
- Separate drivetrain and support
- Unbolt transmission from engine (support transmission with jack), remove starter, unbolt torque converter or flywheel bolts as required.
- Remove engine mounts and any crossmembers blocking engine removal.
- Lift engine out or remove engine/transmission assembly as needed
- Use engine hoist to lift engine out of bay carefully, guided by an assistant. Place engine on stand.
- Front cover and accessory removal on engine stand
- Remove timing cover, harmonic balancer, oil pan, oil pump, and other front-end components to access crankshaft.
- Remove connecting rods and pistons as required
- Mark rod caps to their piston location and orientation; remove rod bolts and push pistons up into bores or remove pistons/rods if replacing bearings/journals.
- Remove main caps and extract crankshaft
- Loosen main cap bolts in a controlled pattern, remove caps, lift crankshaft straight out and set on clean surface or engine stand.
- Inspect and measure
- Use micrometer/bore gauge to measure journal diameters and roundness.
- Use plastigauge to check bearing clearances if installing a crank without machine work.
- Measure crank endplay with dial indicator.
- Check for scoring, heat discoloration, cracks; if present beyond limits, send crank to machine shop.
- Machine shop operations (if needed)
- Have crankshaft ground/polished or magnafluxed for cracks; mains may require align-honing of block caps.
- Order undersize bearings if crank is ground.
- Reassembly basics
- Clean all oil passages and surfaces thoroughly.
- Install new bearings and apply assembly lube to journals.
- Lower crank into place, install main caps and torque in manufacturer’s sequence and increments with torque wrench (replace TTY bolts as required).
- Check bearing clearance with plastigauge at torqued values; re-check torque after clearance verification if required.
- Check crankshaft endplay with dial indicator and adjust thrust washers if needed.
- Reinstall pistons/rods and torque rod bolts to spec (replace rod bolts if TTY).
- Reinstall oil pump, timing components, front cover, seals (use proper seal installer), harmonic balancer, and accessories.
- Prime oil system if possible before first start (crank engine with fuel disabled or use oil priming tool) to avoid dry start damage.
- Final steps and testing
- Reinstall engine/transmission if removed, reconnect all lines and connectors, refill fluids.
- Start engine and monitor oil pressure and leaks. Listen for unusual noises and re-check torque on accessible fasteners after warm-up per manual.

- Reasons to involve a machine shop or pro
- Crank grinding, polishing, and crack detection require specialized equipment and skill.
- Align-honing main bores and correcting block distortion needs a machine shop to maintain bore alignment and clearances.
- Press-fitting or precise balancing of rotating assembly benefits longevity and reduces vibration risk.

- Final practical tips (brief)
- Do not skip measuring clearances — guessing will shorten engine life.
- Replace gaskets/seals, bearings, and any TTY bolts during reassembly.
- Keep work area and parts organized and labeled.
- Expect this job to take many hours or days for a beginner; plan accordingly and budget for machining and replacement parts.
- If you lack the specialty tools or machine shop access, consider removing the engine and having the crank service performed by a professional, then reinstalling.

- Quick parts checklist to buy before starting (generic)
- Complete main and rod bearing set (match to crank size or be ready for undersize)
- Rear main seal and front crank seal
- Harmonic balancer (if old/damaged)
- Timing kit (chain/belt, tensioner, guides)
- Oil pump
- Full gasket set (front cover, oil pan, valve covers, timing cover)
- Main and rod bolts (replace TTY bolts as required)
- Necessary fluids and new oil filter

- Final caution
- This is a major engine repair requiring precise measurements and correct torque procedures. If you want the engine to last, follow the factory manual, use proper measuring tools, and get machining done by a qualified shop when required.
rteeqp73

Toyota 4Runner how to replace radiator 1997 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 Automatic V6 5VZ-FE.

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