- Safety first
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Allow engine and transmission to cool (hot ATF can burn).
- Wear nitrile or mechanic gloves and safety glasses.
- Use jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.

- What the transmission cooler is and common layouts on WJ/WG
- External cooler attached to the front of the radiator/condenser, or
- Cooler tubes routed into an internal radiator cooler (radiator with integrated transmission cooler).
- Leaks commonly occur at the cooler, cooler lines, O-rings, or at a damaged radiator if the cooler is internal.

- Quick diagnosis before starting
- Look for ATF-colored fluid (red/brown) under the front of the vehicle and along the cooler lines.
- Smell the fluid — burnt smell means overheating/contamination.
- Check transmission fluid level on dipstick (engine idling, warmed up, park) and note color and smell.
- If fluid is low or contaminated, plan to replace fluid and filter when the cooler is opened.

- Tools you need (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Socket set (metric + 3/8" drive ratchet and extensions)
- Description: ratchet handle with sockets sized to axle/radiator bracket bolts (usually 10–15 mm).
- How to use: pick correct socket, place on fastener, turn ratchet to loosen/tighten. Use extension for hard-to-reach bolts.
- Combination wrench set (open-end and box-end)
- Description: fixed-size wrenches for bolts where sockets can't fit.
- How to use: box end gives better grip on rounded bolts; open end for quick slipping onto nuts.
- Flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers
- Description: common drivers for clamps and small fasteners.
- How to use: use correct tip to avoid stripping; leverage to turn clamp screws.
- Pliers — slip-joint and needle-nose
- Description: gripping and holding, bending clips, pulling small parts.
- How to use: pinch to hold or pull lines/clips; needle-nose for tight spots.
- Hose clamp pliers or large slip-joint pliers
- Description: compress and release spring-style hose clamps.
- How to use: squeeze clamp to release tension, slide clamp off hose, then let go slowly.
- Transmission cooler line quick-disconnect tool (plastic/metal set)
- Description: small U-shaped or tubular tools sized to the line fittings.
- Why required: many WJ cooler lines use quick-connect fittings that must be depressed/released internally — regular pliers will damage fittings.
- How to use: slide the correct-size tool into the female connector behind the retaining clip, press to release, then pull the line out while holding tool.
- Small pick set (hook/pick)
- Description: thin metal picks for removing O-rings and small retaining clips.
- How to use: carefully pry out old O-rings or plastic retaining clips without gouging the metal.
- Drain pan (large capacity, 6–10+ quarts)
- Description: low-profile pan to catch ATF.
- How to use: place under cooler/lines before disconnecting to catch fluid.
- Funnel and clean fluid container
- Description: funnel for refilling; container to store fluid or for disposal.
- How to use: use a clean funnel; do not reuse drained fluid unless uncontaminated.
- Rags and shop towels
- Description: cleanup and wiping surfaces.
- How to use: keep connections clean before reassembly.
- Jack and jack stands (or ramps)
- Description: lift vehicle and support safely.
- How to use: jack at manufacturer lift points, place jack stands under frame rails; lower onto stands.
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Description: wrench that clicks at set torque.
- Why recommended: prevents over-tightening radiator/cooler brackets which can crack fittings; use for critical bolts.
- How to use: set required torque and tighten until it clicks once.
- Rubber O-ring set and replacement clips/retainers
- Description: new O-rings sized for cooler line fittings and new plastic metal retaining clips.
- Why required: old O-rings often leak when disturbed; clips can break.
- How to use: lightly lubricate new O-rings with ATF, seat them in connector before reassembly.
- Replacement transmission fluid (Mopar ATF+4 for Chrysler)
- Description: manufacturer-recommended ATF. WJ/WG require ATF+4.
- How to use: add only the recommended fluid; do not mix types.
- Replacement parts (if needed)
- Transmission filter and pan gasket (if you remove pan)
- Description: internal filter and rubber or cork pan gasket.
- Why recommended: when you open the transmission lines/cooler you should refresh fluid and filter.
- How to use: replace per instructions — remove pan, remove old filter, install new filter and gasket, torque bolts.
- External transmission cooler or radiator (if integrated)
- Description: replacement external cooler core or full radiator assembly with built-in cooler.
- Why required: severe leaks or damaged radiator core require whole-part replacement.
- How to use: replace cooler and reinstall lines with new O-rings and clips; for a radiator, transfer fan shroud and hoses as needed or have shop do it.
- Optional but useful: mechanic’s light, magnetic pickup, small mirror, shop manual or wiring/line diagram for your year/model.

- Parts that commonly must be replaced and why
- O-rings and retaining clips on cooler line fittings
- Why: cheap, wear out, leak when disturbed; always replace when disconnecting.
- Cooler lines (rubber or hard-lines)
- Why: corroded or cracked; internal collapse will starve transmission.
- Replacement: OEM hard lines or new rubber hose sections (use proper ATF-rated hose if replacing flexible sections).
- External transmission cooler
- Why: punctured cores or internal blockage; replace if leaking or severely corroded.
- Replacement: OEM or aftermarket (Hayden, Derale). Match inlet/outlet locations and capacity; aftermarket often improves cooling.
- Radiator (if transmission cooler is integral)
- Why: if internal cooler leaking, radiator needs replacement—can't usually repair internal cooler.
- Replacement: OEM radiator with integrated trans cooler for WJ/WG or high-capacity aftermarket radiator.
- Transmission filter and fluid
- Why: contamination from a failing cooler or line degradation requires fresh fluid and filter to prevent damage.
- Replacement: filter kit for your transmission model (46RE/45RFE/42RE etc) — buy correct filter for year/engine/transmission.

- Step-by-step repair workflow (safe, beginner-friendly — follow each bullet)
- Prepare vehicle: chock wheels, raise front with jack, support on jack stands, place drain pan under cooler/radiator area.
- Check and record fluid level and color on dipstick before draining.
- Remove any plastic splash shields or grille pieces blocking access to cooler lines.
- Position drain pan under cooler lines and fittings.
- Use the correct quick-disconnect tool: slide it into the cooler line female connector to depress the retaining ring, pull the line off while holding tool; catch dripping ATF in pan.
- Remove fasteners/brackets securing the cooler to the condenser/radiator (socket/wrench). Keep bolts and note location.
- Remove cooler from vehicle; if it’s the radiator that is leaking (internal cooler), plan on replacing the radiator — removing radiator is more involved (drain coolant, disconnect hoses, unbolt, transfer fan/shroud) and may be better done by a shop if unsure.
- Inspect lines, fittings, and cooler mounting for damage and corrosion.
- Replace O-rings on line fittings: remove old O-rings with a pick, clean mating surfaces, install new O-rings lightly lubricated with ATF.
- Install replacement cooler or repair/replace damaged lines:
- For external cooler: mount in front of radiator or condenser using supplied brackets; ensure it does not rub or pinch AC condenser; do not block airflow.
- For radiator replacement: follow radiator removal and install procedure (drain coolant, disconnect hoses, fans, unbolt radiator, swap).
- Reconnect cooler lines using new retaining clips if needed: push until they click; tug lightly to ensure secure.
- Reinstall any brackets and splash shields; tighten bolts snugly; use torque wrench where specified (hand-snip for small fasteners).
- Refill transmission fluid:
- Start with the amount you drained; add fluid through dipstick tube using funnel.
- Start engine, let idle, cycle through gears slowly to circulate fluid, let transmission reach operating temperature.
- With engine idling and transmission in Park, check dipstick; add fluid until level is in the hot range on dipstick. Add slowly — overfilling is bad.
- Check for leaks while engine is idling, then with a short test drive, then recheck fluid level and top as needed.
- Dispose of old ATF and fluids properly at a recycling center.

- How to use the line disconnect tool safely and effectively
- Choose the tool that matches line diameter.
- Push the tool fully into the female connector behind the retaining sleeve.
- Hold the tool in place, then pull the male line out — do not twist or pry excessively.
- If a plastic retaining clip is present, remove and replace with a new clip.

- When to replace radiator vs external cooler vs lines
- Replace radiator when ATF is coming from inside the radiator core (visible coolant/ATF mixing or ATF leaking from radiator). Internal cooler failures require radiator replacement.
- Replace external cooler when the cooler core is punctured, heavily corroded, or clogged.
- Replace lines when cracked, corroded, or when quick-connect fittings are broken.
- Always replace O-rings and retaining clips when disconnecting lines.

- If you see symptoms beyond a leak
- Slipping, hesitation, burning smell, or metal debris in fluid indicates possible internal transmission damage — repair may require transmission rebuild or replacement; consult a transmission specialist.
- If the cooler failure caused severe fluid loss and you drove on low fluid, internal damage is possible.

- Beginner tips and gotchas
- Always use Mopar ATF+4 — using the wrong fluid can damage the transmission.
- Do not overtighten fittings or clamp bolts; plastic/Aluminum parts strip easily.
- Keep everything clean — dirt in the lines or filter will cause damage.
- Plan to replace filter and change fluid when you open the system — it’s cheap insurance.
- If radiator replacement is needed and you’re a beginner, consider a shop for the radiator swap (coolant system work is more complex).
- Keep new O-rings on-hand in several sizes — cheap and commonly needed.

- Final check and test
- After reassembly and refill, check for leaks for at least 10–15 minutes of idling/low-speed driving.
- Recheck fluid level hot and adjust.
- Monitor transmission temperature and behavior for the next few days.

- Summary of likely replacement parts to buy before starting
- New O-ring kit for cooler lines (specific sizes for WJ/WG)
- New retaining clips for quick-connects
- Transmission filter and pan gasket (filter kit for your transmission)
- ATF+4 (enough to refill plus what was lost — bring 6–12 quarts depending on job)
- Replacement cooler (external) OR replacement radiator with integrated cooler (if internal leak)
- Replacement cooler lines or sections of hose if corroded

- Disposal and cleanup
- Store used ATF in a sealed container and take to a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts used oil/ATF.
- Clean spilled ATF from work area to avoid slips and environmental contamination.

- One-line final note
- Replace worn O-rings/clips and the filter whenever you open the cooler/lines; replace the cooler or radiator only if they are leaking or damaged — otherwise repairing lines and O-rings plus fresh ATF/filter usually fixes the issue.
rteeqp73

Jeep Grand Cherokee Common Problems - 2011-2022 WK2 Common Problems and issues with the Jeep Grand Cherokee, covering model years 2011 - 2022 WK2.

How to Remove a Transmission Part 1 Jeep Grand Cherokee You're welcome to kick back listen to some nice music and watch me Replace the transmission. Hope you will get a better idea for ...

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