Below are ordered, practical steps to diagnose, clean or replace the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor on a Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ (the WJ/WG era). Each step includes the theory — why you do it and how the repair fixes the fault. No fluff.

Preparation (why)
1. Symptoms & codes
- What to do: Read stored fault codes with an OBD-II scanner (look for P0100–P0104, P0171/P0174, P0172/P0175, rough idle, poor throttle response, stalling, high fuel consumption).
- Theory: MAF errors produce those codes and fuel trim issues because ECU uses MAF data to calculate injected fuel. Confirming codes directs whether MAF is suspect.

2. Tools & materials
- What to have: OBD-II scanner with live data, multimeter, MAF cleaner spray (dedicated electronics MAF cleaner), basic hand tools (screwdriver/T20/T25/T30 Torx or 8–10 mm socket depending on clamp), gloves, safety glasses.
- Theory: MAF element is delicate and requires specific cleaner; electrical tests verify sensor circuitry.

Diagnostic checks (why before removing)
3. Visual inspection of intake path
- What to do: Inspect air filter, airbox, intake boot between filter and throttle body for cracks, loose clamps, oil contamination, or badly oiled aftermarket filter.
- Theory: Intake leaks or an oiled filter can cause incorrect air readings or contaminate the sensor. Fixing the leak/filter is necessary or the MAF will be re-contaminated even after cleaning.

4. Live-data check
- What to do: With scanner, monitor MAF reading (g/s or lb/min) at key conditions: engine off, idle, snap throttle. Also look at fuel trims (short- and long-term).
- Theory: A healthy MAF shows a steady low value at idle and increases smoothly with revs. If MAF is flat, erratic, or grossly low/high relative to rpm/load, it’s likely faulty or contaminated. Fuel trims show ECU compensating for bad air data.

5. Electrical checks (quick)
- What to do: With key ON (engine off), backprobe connector: verify 5V reference (or 12V on some sensors), ground, and signal line continuity to ECU. Use multimeter to check for open circuits.
- Theory: If reference or ground is missing or shorted, the sensor will not output correct signal. Fix wiring before replacing sensor.

Removal (order + handling precautions)
6. Disconnect battery negative (optional but safe)
- What to do: Remove negative terminal to prevent shorts while working with electronics.
- Theory: Prevents accidental shorting and ECU disturbances during sensor removal.

7. Unplug electrical connector
- What to do: Depress tab, pull connector straight off. Do not pull on wiring.
- Theory: Removes power and signal so you can safely take out the sensor.

8. Remove MAF housing/sensor
- What to do: Loosen clamps or remove screws securing air intake tube/airbox, unbolt MAF if required, and carefully remove sensor from intake. Note orientation/airflow direction.
- Theory: MAF sits between airbox and throttle body; proper orientation is critical for correct readings.

Cleaning (if test indicates contamination)
9. Clean only with dedicated MAF/electrical cleaner
- What to do: Hold sensor so element faces upwards, spray MAF cleaner onto the sensing element and inside housing in short bursts (2–4 seconds each area). Do not touch the element, do not use compressed air, do not use other solvents.
- Theory: Most Jeep MAFs are hot-wire/hot-film devices: a tiny heated element or film measures airflow by heat loss. Oil/dust/soot insulates the element, slowing heat transfer and causing wrong readings. MAF cleaner evaporates residues without damaging the element.

10. Dry and reassemble
- What to do: Allow at least 10–15 minutes for solvent to evaporate fully (longer if needed). Reinstall sensor and clamps, reconnect electrical connector, reconnect battery if removed.
- Theory: Any residual solvent or wetness can cause incorrect readings or short circuits. Correct reassembly restores airflow path and sensor feedback.

Replace (if electrically failed or damaged)
11. Fit replacement sensor (if cleaning not effective or electrical failure found)
- What to do: Install new OEM (or equivalent) MAF in same orientation, tighten clamps, reconnect harness.
- Theory: If the element or internal electronics are failed (open circuit, burnt element, internal contamination beyond cleaning), replacement restores correct measurement and signal to ECU.

Post-repair verification (prove it’s fixed)
12. Clear codes and relearn
- What to do: Clear codes using scanner, start engine, let idle to stabilize, or perform manufacturer-specified idle/drive relearn if needed.
- Theory: ECU stores trim values based on previous bad data; clearing and allowing the ECU to re-adapt prevents stored compensation from hiding true operation.

13. Re-check live data and fuel trims
- What to do: With scanner, verify MAF readings now scale with rpms, fuel trims move toward zero, and no MAF faults reappear during test drive.
- Theory: Correct MAF output gives ECU accurate air mass, allowing closed-loop fuel trims to normalize and drivability symptoms to disappear.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise theory)
- MAF function: a hot-wire/hot-film sensor measures the mass of intake air by monitoring heat loss from a heated element or measuring changes in a sensing element; that signal is proportional to airflow and is used by the ECU to calculate fuel injection duration and ignition timing.
- Contamination effect: dust, oil, soot or film on the element reduces heat transfer or changes sensor characteristics, producing low, high or unstable readings. ECU then over- or under-fuels the engine, causing rough idle, poor acceleration, stalling, or emissions/fuel-trim codes.
- Cleaning outcome: removes contaminants restoring the heat-transfer characteristics and original signal response, which corrects the air-mass measurement and lets the ECU return fuel delivery to proper values.
- Replacement outcome: replaces a physically or electrically failed sensor so the ECU receives correct, calibrated signals again.

Important cautions (do not skip)
- Use only MAF cleaner. Other solvents damage the delicate sensing element.
- Do not touch the sensing element.
- Fix intake leaks and oiled filters before or after cleaning; otherwise sensor will re-foul.
- If the MAF is intermittently failing electrically, replacement is required — cleaning won’t fix internal electronics.
- Do not spray MAF cleaner into the connector or wires.

Typical expected values (general guidance)
- Idle: low but stable MAF output (scanner will show a small g/s or low voltage). Values differ by engine; confirm against service data.
- Signal behavior: should increase smoothly with throttle; erratic jumps indicate sensor or wiring fault.

That’s the ordered procedure plus the mechanisms explaining why cleaning or replacing the MAF resolves the fault.
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