- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses and nitrile or latex gloves. Brake fluid is corrosive to skin and paint.
- Work on level ground, engine off and keys removed. Set parking brake and use wheel chocks on wheels remaining on the ground.
- Use jack stands to support the car if you remove wheels. Never rely on the jack alone.
- Keep rags and a bucket handy for spills; brake fluid ruins paint — wash spills immediately with water.
- Check the vehicle manual for the correct brake fluid type (commonly DOT 3 or DOT 4 for Toyotas). Do not use DOT 5 (silicone) unless manual specifically says so; do not mix DOT 5 with DOT 3/4.

- Tools required (detailed description and how to use each)
- Brake fluid — new, unopened bottle of specified DOT rating
- How to use: Pour into master cylinder reservoir only when instructed. Keep cap closed except when topping; avoid contamination. Use fresh fluid only.
- Combination wrenches (open/box) or flare/line wrenches, typically 10 mm for bleeder screws on many Toyotas
- How to use: Use a flare/line wrench on bleeder nuts to avoid rounding. Hold the wrench on the bleeder and turn counterclockwise to open a little when bleeding, then clockwise to close. Keep good grip and use correct size.
- Clear plastic tubing (inner diameter fits over bleeder nipple) and a clear catch bottle marked with used fluid level
- How to use: Push tubing onto the bleeder nipple so fluid flows into the bottle without air contact. This lets you see old fluid color and prevents air from re-entering.
- Brake bleeder bottle or any clean plastic bottle (with some fluid already in it) and a one-way valve (optional)
- How to use: Bottle catches fluid; a one-way valve lets fluid flow out without air coming back in during single-person bleeding.
- Turkey baster, syringe, or small funnel
- How to use: Remove old fluid from the master cylinder reservoir before starting and top up with new fluid as needed during the procedure.
- Flat screwdriver and/or small brush
- How to use: Pry off the plastic reservoir cap clips and clean the reservoir cap area before opening to avoid contamination.
- Jack and jack stands (and wheel chocks)
- How to use: Jack car at manufacturer jacking points, then place stands under secure frame points. Lower car onto stands. Chock wheels left on ground.
- Lug wrench or impact socket to remove wheels (if needed)
- How to use: Break lug nuts while car is on ground, then remove when each corner is off the ground.
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- How to use: Torque lug nuts to factory spec when reinstalling wheels.
- Brake cleaner and rags
- How to use: Clean bleeder screws and surrounding area before and after bleeding. Wipe spills promptly.
- Vacuum bleeder pump or handheld pressure bleeder (optional but recommended)
- How to use vacuum pump: Attach hose to bleeder nipple, create vacuum, open nipple and let pump draw fluid until clear. Vacuum pumps allow one-person bleeding and reduce pedal pumping.
- How to use pressure bleeder: Pressurize reservoir to specified psi (~15 psi), open bleeders sequentially to push fluid out. Very effective for flushing ABS and entire system.
- Line-lock tool or assistant (optional)
- How to use with assistant: Assistant pumps brake pedal as you open/close bleeder. Line-lock holds pressure for single-person pedaling method.

- Extra/optional tools and why they help
- Scan tool with ABS bleed capability
- Why required sometimes: If the car has ABS, air can be trapped in the ABS module. Activating the ABS pump and solenoids with a diagnostic tool cycles fluid and helps purge air.
- Replacement bleeder caps and new bleeder screws (spare)
- Why required: Bleeder screws can seize or round; having spares avoids delays. Use correct size and grade.
- Master cylinder rebuild kit or replacement master cylinder (if leaking)
- Why required: If master cylinder internal seals are failing (spongy pedal that doesn’t firm after bleeding), replacement or rebuild is necessary.

- Parts that might need replacement, when, and why
- Brake fluid
- Why: Old fluid absorbs moisture (hydroscopic), lowers boiling point and causes corrosion. Replace if dark or >2 years old.
- Brake hoses
- Why: Rubber hoses can swell or crack, causing soft pedal or leaks. Replace if bulging, cracked, or leaking.
- Calipers or wheel cylinders
- Why: Leaking calipers/wheel cylinders let air and fluid escape. Replace or rebuild if they leak or pistons freeze.
- Master cylinder
- Why: Internal failure causes pedal sink or inability to build pressure. Replace if bleeding doesn’t restore firm pedal and no external leaks exist.
- Bleeder screws
- Why: Stripped or seized bleeders must be replaced to bleed properly.
- ABS unit (rare)
- Why: If ABS valve/pump won't let fluid through properly, a scan tool diagnosis and possible repair needed.

- Preparation steps (quick)
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
- Confirm brake fluid type from owner's manual.
- Clean around master cylinder reservoir cap, remove cap, and remove excess old fluid from top with turkey baster.
- Lift car and remove wheels if you prefer easier access to bleeders.

- Basic manual two-person bleed method (safe for beginners)
- Keep only bullet points (procedure)
- Have assistant sit in the driver seat with seatbelt on to operate the pedal.
- Put clear tubing on the bleeder nipple of the wheel you’re working on and route to catch bottle partially filled with a little new fluid to stop air ingestion.
- Slightly loosen the bleeder screw (about 1/4 to 1/2 turn) before starting; don’t fully remove it.
- Tell assistant to slowly depress pedal to the floor and hold it down.
- Open the bleeder briefly to let fluid and bubbles flow into the tubing; then close the bleeder before assistant releases the pedal.
- Repeat: pump-and-hold, open, close until fluid coming out is clear and bubble-free.
- Keep the master cylinder reservoir topped up between cycles; never let it run dry.
- Move to next wheel following the order: farthest from master cylinder first (commonly rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver for many cars) — if unsure, use “farthest first” rule.
- After all wheels are clear, check pedal firmness; final test is firm pedal with no travel and the car held on stands before lowering.

- Single-person options (safer, recommended if alone)
- Use a vacuum bleeder: attach hose to bleeder nipple, open nipple, pump vacuum to draw fluid until clear.
- Use a pressure bleeder: pressurize reservoir (~15 psi), open each bleeder until clear. Monitor reservoir level.
- Use a one-way-valve bottle on the bleeder so you can push fluid out by pressing pedal while bottle prevents air return.

- How to use common tools in the procedure
- How to use the wrench on bleeder screw: Hold wrench steady, turn counterclockwise to open; when closing, turn clockwise until snug — don’t overtighten and don’t round the nut.
- How to use tubing and bottle: Push tubing fully onto the bleeder nipple; keep bottle below nipple to prevent air backflow; check that fluid flows continuously into bottle.
- How to use turkey baster/syringe: Remove old fluid from master reservoir before starting and remove sediment; don’t push fluid back into system.
- How to use jack/jack stands: Lift at specified jacking points, set stands under reinforced pinch weld or subframe, lower car gently onto stands.

- ABS systems and special notes
- If your Toyota bB has ABS, air can be trapped in the ABS module; a pressure bleeder or a scan tool that activates ABS pump/valves is strongly recommended to purge the module.
- If you do not have a scan tool and pressure bleeder, perform repeated bleeding cycles; sometimes ABS will self-bleed when the vehicle is driven and ABS cycles, but this is not guaranteed.

- Common troubleshooting signs and remedies
- Persistent soft or sinking pedal after bleeding: possible internal master cylinder failure or trapped air in ABS. Consider master cylinder replacement or professional ABS bleed with scan tool.
- Leaks at a wheel: tighten or replace bleeder screw, replace hose/caliper if leaking.
- No fluid flow when opening bleeder: check that master reservoir has fluid, check for clogged lines, or a stuck proportioning valve/ABS unit — may need professional help.

- Disposal and final checks
- Dispose of used brake fluid at hazardous waste or auto parts recycling centers; do not pour down drains.
- Clean any spilled fluid immediately.
- After finishing, torque wheel nuts to spec, lower car, test brakes at low speed in a safe area before normal driving.
- Re-check master cylinder fluid level after a short test drive and inspect for leaks.

- Quick maintenance guideline
- Replace brake fluid every 2 years or per the owner's manual, or sooner if fluid looks dark or contaminated.
- Inspect hoses and calipers at the same time for leaks or damage.

- Final warnings
- If you are unsure or the pedal does not firm up after bleeding, stop and have a qualified mechanic inspect the system. Brakes are critical to safety.
rteeqp73

Britannia Export - RECENTLY SOLD: Left hand drive Toyota Coaster 3B 28 seater minibus. #minibus RECENTLY SOLD Left hand drive Toyota Coaster Caetano 3B 3.4 diesel 28 seater minibus POWER STEERING Toyota 3B ...

1978 78 Toyota BJ40 B engine intercooled turbo diesel Land Cruiser CO USA FJ40 1978 78 Toyota Land Cruiser BJ40 Turbo Diesel FJ40.

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