Summary: The parking brake on a Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ (and similar Wagoneer/Grand Cherokee variants) is a purely mechanical system that holds the rear wheels when parked and provides an emergency backup if the hydraulic brakes fail. This guide explains the components, theory, common failures, safety, and step‑by‑step adjustment procedures for both common rear‑brake arrangements you’ll encounter on WJ models (cable actuated lever on the rear caliper or cable to drum‑in‑hat shoes). Follow safety directions exactly.

What the parking brake does (theory)
- Purpose: holds the vehicle stationary without using hydraulic pressure; provides a mechanical backup.
- How it works: the handbrake lever pulls a cable (main cable) that splits at an equalizer into two rear cables. The rear cables either:
- Pull a small lever on each rear caliper that mechanically squeezes the pad against the rotor (caliper‑actuated parking brake), or
- Activate a small drum‑type shoe assembly inside the rotor “hat” that expands shoes against a drum surface (drum‑in‑hat parking brake).
- Analogy: think of the cable and equalizer like the strings and bridge on a drawbridge — pulling the main cable raises both sides equally to lock the wheels.
- Why adjustment is needed: cables stretch, cables and connections corrode or seize, shoes/pads wear, or adjustment mechanisms freeze. Stretch/wear = more free play at the lever and less holding power.

Major components (what every part does)
- Handbrake lever (inside cabin): ratchet and pawl, release button — user input and locking.
- Release cable (short, under console): links handle to main cable (on some models).
- Main parking‑brake cable: transmits pull from lever to the equalizer.
- Equalizer (junction): splits pull into two rear cables and allows matched tension.
- Rear cables (left and right): connect equalizer to caliper lever or to shoe actuators.
- Caliper parking lever (if caliper‑type): small lever on caliper that converts cable pull to pad clamp force.
- Drum‑in‑hat shoe assembly (if drum‑type): shoes, springs, adjuster — expands and locks inside the rotor hat.
- Cable housings, clips, grommets, brackets, anchor pins: route and anchor the cable.
- Parking‑brake switch/light: indicates when brake is engaged.

Tools and materials
- Wheel chocks, hydraulic jack, jack stands (use stands — never rely on the jack).
- Lug wrench or 19 mm socket (verify your lug size), breaker bar.
- Socket set, ratchet, wrenches (metric/standard as needed), pliers.
- Screwdrivers, needle‑nose pliers, adjustable pliers.
- Penetrant (PB Blaster), wire brush, rags, brake cleaner.
- Grease or anti‑seize for pivot points, small hammer.
- If drum shoes: brake adjusting spoon or small flat screwdriver.
- Torque wrench for wheel lug torque (follow spec for your wheel — typical range ~100–140 ft‑lb; check manual).
- Replacement cables, shoes, springs or caliper parts if needed.

Safety rules (must do)
- Work on a level surface. Chock front wheels securely.
- Jack the rear and place jack stands under the axle or specified lift points; lower vehicle onto stands.
- Test stability before working. Don’t crawl under only on a jack.
- Wear eye protection. Be careful with springs and rusted hardware.
- If you’re unsure of torque specs, consult the factory manual for your model.

Pre‑adjustment inspection
1. Park on level ground, chock front wheels, set transmission in park (or in gear if manual), engine off.
2. Inspect entire cable route: look for frayed cable, stretched outer sheath, rusted brackets/clips, broken return springs, or seized pivot points.
3. With rear wheels raised (on stands) and wheels removed, spin each rear wheel by hand:
- With parking brake released: wheels should spin freely with minimal drag.
- With parking brake applied: wheels should have a firm stopping effect and either won’t turn or will turn with a lot more effort (slight drag is OK).
4. Identify whether your vehicle uses caliper levers or drum‑in‑hat shoes:
- Caliper type: you’ll see a small lever on the rear caliper where the cable attaches.
- Drum‑in‑hat: you will see a backing plate or access slot on the rotor hat and small shoe hardware inside if rotor removed.

Adjustment goals (how tight is right)
- Lever travel: typically around 6–8 clicks or 2–3 inches of handle travel; exact spec varies, but the lever should ratchet solidly and hold without excessive travel.
- Rear wheel drag: with park brake applied, wheels should be hard to turn by hand but not locked solid; with brake released, wheels should spin freely without noticeable drag.
- If you tighten until the wheels cannot rotate, it’s too tight — causes overheating and premature wear.

Adjustment methods (two common setups)

A) Adjusting via the equalizer or under‑console adjuster (most common)
This is the general method when there is a threaded adjuster on the main cable or equalizer.

1. Locate adjuster:
- Under the vehicle along the main cable near the center or under the rear of the center console. It’s a threaded sleeve/locknut where you can tighten the cable.
2. Preparation:
- Release parking brake.
- Raise and support the rear on jack stands, remove rear wheels for access.
3. Loosen the lock nut on the adjuster (if present) so you can turn the adjuster sleeve.
4. With one hand lightly pulling upward on the handbrake lever to the desired number of clicks, use the other hand (or have an assistant) to turn the adjuster to take up slack.
- If alone: pull handbrake to desired position and hold with wire or vice grips on the cable tail (protect the cable with rag). Turn adjuster until tension is felt.
- Turn the adjuster so the rear cables tighten evenly.
5. Test spin each rear wheel: you should feel slight drag when the brake is applied at the desired lever position.
6. Lock the adjuster with the lock nut, or re‑secure adjuster sleeve.
7. Reinstall wheels, lower vehicle, torque lug nuts to spec, test lever travel and parking holding on a slight grade (careful).
8. Final check: parking‑brake light operation and lever release.

B) Caliper lever‑type (adjust caliper mechanism and equalize)
If rear cables pull a lever on each caliper, you still normally adjust at the equalizer/main adjuster (method A). Additionally:
- Inspect caliper lever pivot: clean and lubricate pivot and pin. If the lever is seized, freeing it may restore function.
- If pads or calipers are replaced, ensure lever travel matches equalizer adjustment — you may need to slightly retract pistons with brake tool so the lever’s travel can seat correctly.

C) Drum‑in‑hat shoe adjustment (if applicable)
If your WJ has drum‑in‑hat shoes, there is a shoe adjuster (star wheel) to set shoe clearance.

1. Remove the rear rotor/hat to access shoes, or use the access hole on the backing plate if available.
2. Rotate the star‑wheel adjuster to expand the shoes until they just drag on the drum surface. Then back off slightly until the wheel turns freely with slight resistance.
3. Reassemble rotor, reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, test lever operation and parking holding.
4. Self‑adjusters: note that many self‑adjust when you apply parking brake and reverse; follow service manual if vehicle supports it.

Troubleshooting common problems and fixes
- Cable is frayed or broken: replace the cable assembly (main + both rear cables if necessary). Fraying leads to sudden failure.
- Adjuster threads seized or round: apply penetrant, tap lightly, use correct wrench; if stripped, replace adjuster or entire cable.
- Uneven drag between sides: equalizer misadjusted or one rear cable seized; free/replace the seized cable.
- Lever moves many clicks but no braking: cable stretch/slippage at equalizer or broken/ disconnected cable. Inspect and replace.
- Excessive drag after adjustment: over‑tightened. Back off adjuster until wheels are nearly free.
- Ratchet/pawl damage: if the handbrake handle ratchet teeth are stripped the lever won’t hold — replace the handbrake assembly.
- Caliper lever stuck (corroded pivot): remove caliper, clean pivot, apply grease or replace pivot/lever if damaged.
- Shoes/pads worn: replace pads/shoes and re‑adjust. If pads thin, the equalizer must be tightened to compensate; better to replace worn pads first.
- Parking brake not holding at slope: either not enough adjustment, cable stretching, worn shoes/pads, or a seized component.

What can go wrong if you do this poorly
- Over‑tightening: causes hot spots, premature pad/rotor wear, dragging wheel bearings, and reduced fuel economy.
- Under‑adjusting: insufficient holding power — vehicle may roll.
- Damaged threads or cables from brute force: could require replacement and extra labor.
- Leaving loose hardware: cables can unhook and fail on first use.
- Working without jack stands: severe injury or death. Don’t risk it.

Testing after repair
- Static test on stands: with parking brake set, rear wheels should resist turning.
- Drive test: on a quiet, level area, engage parking brake at low speed to sense if it engages evenly (use brakes conservatively when testing).
- Park on a mild incline to confirm hold; don’t rely only on the parking brake the first few times after a repair — verify while attended.

When to replace components instead of just adjusting
- Severely corroded or frayed cable(s).
- Seized equalizer or adjuster that won’t turn or is bulged.
- Damaged or stripped handbrake lever ratchet.
- Caliper parking lever cracked or seized beyond repair.
- Worn shoes/pads or rotor damage in drum hat assembly.

Quick checklist for a beginner mechanic
- Safety gear and jack stands: check.
- Chock front wheels: check.
- Inspect cables, equalizer, caliper lever/shoes: check.
- Raise vehicle, remove wheels if needed: check.
- Adjust at equalizer to achieve desired lever clicks and wheel drag: check.
- Reinstall wheels, torque lugs, lower vehicle: check.
- Functional test on mild slope: check.

Final notes
- If anything is corroded, seized, or damaged, replace rather than force. Parking brakes are a safety system — don’t gamble.
- If you want exact torque specs, part numbers, or illustrations for your year/trim of WJ, consult the factory service manual or a model‑specific workshop manual.

Done.
rteeqp73

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Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: ratchets (3/8" & 1/2"), metric socket set (8–19 mm), deep sockets, swivel/extension.
- Torx/Allen set (if applicable for your model).
- Torque wrench (0–150 ft·lb range) and 1/4" or 3/8" for low-torque bolts.
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool (Jeep / Chrysler style) or small pick set for clips.
- Flat & Phillips screwdrivers, pliers, hose clamp pliers.
- Drain pan, funnel, rags, shop towels.
- Clean compressed air (or small vacuum) to blow out ports.
- Gasket scraper / plastic razor blade and soft-bristle brush.
- Engine assembly lube or light oil (for O‑rings if replacing injectors).
- Coolant and coolant refill equipment, thread sealant if required.
- New parts: intake manifold gasket set (upper & lower as required), throttle body gasket, intake manifold bolts if OEM specifies one-time-use (replace any corroded/stretch bolts), new vacuum hoses/PCV if brittle, O‑rings for injectors (recommended), and any coolant hose/thermostat if removed.
- OBD-II scanner to clear codes/monitor sensors.
- Safety: eye protection, nitrile gloves, jack stands (if raising vehicle).

Safety precautions (read first)
- Work on a cold engine. Hot coolant/oil will burn.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting (prevents accidental cranking and electric shorting).
- Relieve fuel system pressure properly: remove fuel pump fuse/relay and start engine until it dies, or use fuel rail Schrader valve if fitted. Have rags handy for small drips.
- Drain coolant only if you will open coolant passages; catch and dispose responsibly.
- Keep dirt/debris out of intake/cylinder bores — plug open ports with clean rags when manifold removed.
- Use jack stands if vehicle is raised. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Label connectors/hoses with tape for correct reassembly.

Overview (what you are doing)
Most WJ Grand Cherokees (4.7L V8 and 4.0L I6 variants) have an upper intake plenum that must be removed to service gaskets, injectors, or access the lower manifold/head area. The procedure below covers removal and replacement of the intake manifold (upper — and lower if applicable), cleaning mating surfaces, replacing gaskets and reassembly with correct torque sequence.

Step‑by‑step removal (general WJ 4.7L style—adapt where needed)
1. Prep
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Relieve fuel pressure (pull fuel pump fuse/relay and crank until stalls, or use rail Schrader if present).
- Drain coolant to a level below the intake if the manifold has coolant passages (catch in pan).

2. Remove intake plumbing & accessories
- Remove airbox and intake snorkel to get clear access to throttle body and plenum.
- Disconnect MAF sensor wiring if attached and remove airbox-to-throttle clamps.
- Disconnect throttle body electrical connector, cruise control cable (or throttle cable), and any vacuum lines from TB/plenum. Label hoses.
- Remove PCV valve hose(s) from plenum.
- Remove coolant hoses from the intake if connected (cap/plug hose to prevent contamination, or drain further if required).
- Unplug all electrical connectors attached to the plenum (MAP sensor, EVAP purge solenoid, injector harness if routed on plenum, etc.). Label.

3. Remove fuel rail-related components
- Carefully disconnect fuel rail quick-disconnect fittings using the proper tool. Expect some fuel to drip — catch it.
- Unbolt the fuel rail mounting bolts and carefully lift the rail with injectors attached just enough to free the plenum; do NOT yank injectors out. Support the rail.

4. Remove throttle body & sensors
- Unbolt throttle body from the intake plenum and set aside (with gasket replaced later).
- Remove any brackets or wiring harness retainers attached to the plenum.

5. Unbolt intake plenum (upper)
- Loosen and remove the plenum/upper manifold bolts in a crisscross pattern from the outside toward the center. Keep bolts organized by length/position.
- Gently pry the plastic upper plenum up — use a soft‑face pry or plastic tool to avoid gouging surfaces. There may be stuck sections due to old gasket sealant; work evenly.
- Lift the upper plenum free, tilt to clear injectors or harnesses. Plug openings immediately to prevent debris entry.

6. If lower manifold removal required
- If you need the lower intake removed (to replace gaskets under it), unbolt any remaining fuel/injector harness brackets, coolant crossover tubes, and throttle bracket attachments to the lower manifold.
- Remove lower manifold bolts in the specified sequence (see reassembly for pattern).
- Lift lower manifold off, plug ports.

7. Clean mating surfaces
- Scrape old gasket material with a plastic scraper. Avoid scratching aluminum/polished surfaces.
- Blow out bolt holes and intake ports with compressed air while covering with shop towel to prevent debris entering.
- Inspect for cracks in the plastic upper plenum, warped lower manifold, or coolant passage corrosion.

Replacement parts & prep
- Replace all intake gaskets. Do not reuse old gaskets.
- Replace injector O‑rings and lubricant lightly before reinstallation.
- Replace throttle body gasket and PCV valve if old.
- If intake bolts are torque-to-yield or show corrosion/stretch, replace with OEM bolts.
- If coolant passed through manifold, replace antifreeze per spec and bleed system after reassembly.

Reassembly (stepwise)
1. Prepare surfaces
- Clean and dry surfaces; ensure bolt holes are clean.
- Position new lower intake gasket(s)/seals exactly.

2. Set lower intake (if applicable)
- Carefully lower the lower manifold into place. Make sure all dowels/locating pins align.
- Hand-start bolts all around to seat parts without cross-threading.

3. Torque sequence & values
- Tighten bolts in a crisscross pattern from the center outward in at least three stages (finger-tight → 50% torque → final torque). This prevents warping.
- IMPORTANT: Use factory torque specs. Typical ranges (verify in service manual for your exact engine/year): upper plastic plenum bolts often small torque (~7–12 Nm / 70–105 in‑lb); lower manifold bolts typically higher (~20–35 Nm / 15–26 ft‑lb). If you do not have the manual, stop at a moderate torque and get specs — over/under-torque causes leaks or damage.
- If manufacturer prescribes torque-angle method for some bolts, follow it exactly.

4. Reinstall fuel rail & injectors
- Lubricate new O‑rings and ease injectors into manifold ports.
- Seat fuel rail and bolt down per torque. Reconnect quick-disconnect fittings (listen/feel them snap). Check for routing/clearance.

5. Reattach sensors, TB, hoses
- Reinstall throttle body with new gasket, torque bolts to spec.
- Reconnect vacuum lines, PCV, EVAP, MAP sensors, and all electrical connectors.
- Reinstall intake snorkel/airbox, MAF sensor.

6. Coolant & fuel system
- Refill coolant if drained. Bleed cooling system per procedure (heater on, upper hose squeeze, or use bleeder screw if fitted).
- Reconnect battery. Reinstall fuel pump fuse/relay. Turn ignition ON (do not start) for 2–3 seconds several times to prime fuel system and pressurize rail; check for fuel leaks.

7. Start-up & checks
- Start engine and let idle. Check for vacuum leaks (listen/feel), fuel leaks, coolant leaks.
- Monitor engine temperature and check for any rough idle or codes with OBD-II. Clear codes if needed and re-scan after test drive.
- Re-torque bolts after initial heat cycle only if specified.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Broken plastic bolts: Many WJ intake/plenum bolts are plastic or thread into plastic. Do not over-torque; back out slowly and replace any damaged fasteners. Replace bolts that look brittle.
- Fuel line damage: Use the correct quick‑disconnect tool; forcing the connector will break the fitting. Expect a small fuel drip; have rags ready.
- Foreign debris into intake ports: Always plug open ports immediately. A small pebble or rag in a cylinder will ruin the engine.
- Wrong torque sequence/over-torque: Warped manifold, stripped threads, or crushed gaskets. Use torque wrench and correct sequence.
- Reusing old gaskets: Causes vacuum/coolant leaks — always replace gaskets and injector O‑rings.
- Not replacing O‑rings: Leaky injectors/fuel rail leaks. Replace and lube them.
- Ignoring coolant passages: If manifold carries coolant, failure to properly refill and bleed will cause overheating and air pockets.
- Electrical connectors not fully seated: Can cause intermittent sensors and check-engine lights. Label connectors during removal.

How each tool is specifically used
- Torque wrench: Set to specified torque; use appropriate drive and extension. Tighten bolts in stages using the specified crisscross pattern to final torque. Do not use torque wrench for initial break-loose.
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool: Slide the correct size tool into the fuel line fitting until it depresses the retainer then pull the hose away from the rail. Practice on one connector first to feel the release.
- Ratchet, extensions, swivel: Reach bolts in tight locations; swivel and universal joints give angle access without damaging bolt heads. Use deep sockets on injector/fuel rail bolts where necessary.
- Gasket scraper/plastic razor: Remove old gasket material without scoring mating surfaces. Finish with soft brush/solvent if needed.
- Compressed air/vacuum: Blow out bolt holes and ports — use controlled bursts and block open engine bores to prevent debris ingestion.

Final notes and test
- Drive the vehicle for 10–20 minutes, monitoring temp and for leaks. Re-scan for codes after driving and clear codes if appropriate.
- If you experience rough idle, check vacuum lines, intake manifold bolts torque, and injector seating.
- Keep used gaskets and bolts as reference for what was replaced.

This is a direct shop-style procedure—adapt bolt sizes, torque values and fuel-line details to your exact WJ year/engine. If you need exact torque specs and bolt patterns for your specific engine (4.0L I6, 4.7L V8, diesel 2.7L), consult the factory service manual for those figures before final torqueing.
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