Tools & consumables
- Floor jack, jack stands (rated), wheel chocks
- Engine/transmission support (trans jack or block & jack)
- Metric socket set (8–24 mm), ratchet, extension, breaker bar
- Combination wrenches (8–22 mm)
- Torque wrench (capable to 5–100 Nm)
- Snap‑ring (circlip) pliers (internal & external, as required)
- Flat & Phillips screwdrivers
- Long punch and soft‑face hammer / dead‑blow
- Small slide‑hammer or gear puller (for seized arm)
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster / Kroil)
- Wire brush, rags, brake cleaner
- Grease (lithium or chassis), anti‑seize
- New replacement control arm / selector lever kit (OEM or high‑quality aftermarket)
- New snap ring(s), retaining pin/cotter pin, bolts/nuts (if specified), threadlocker
- Drain pan & shop towels
- Safety glasses, gloves

Safety precautions
- Work on a level surface; chock wheels and set parking brake.
- Block vehicle, lift only at manufacturer jacking points and support on jack stands. Never rely on the jack alone.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal when working around gear linkage or electrical sensors.
- Support the transmission with a trans jack or support before removing any mounts or linkage that transmit load to the case.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves; use penetrating oil and ventilation when needed.
- Have a drip pan ready in case seals are disturbed.

What you’re replacing
- The “control arm” on H‑series gearboxes usually means the selector/shift lever (selector arm) that mounts on the selector shaft and connects to the shift linkage. Typical failure modes: worn pivot/ball, corroded arm, damaged circlip/bushing causing sloppy gear selection.

Step‑by‑step replacement (typical — apply to H41 / H42 / H50 / H55F)
1) Preparation
- Park, chock, lift vehicle and support on stands. Place trans jack under gearbox and support lightly (don’t lift unless needed).
- Remove any skid plates or shields that block access to the gearbox selector arm.

2) Identify & mark
- With gearbox in neutral and parking brake on, mark the relative position of the selector arm and linkage to ease reassembly (use scribe, paint, or a marker). Note selector shaft orientation.

3) Disconnect linkage
- Remove the retaining clip/cotter pin at the linkage end where it attaches to the control arm. Use pliers to remove clip. If the linkage has a ball joint, pry the ball stud out gently with a flat screwdriver or ball‑joint separator. Catch any small parts.
- If there is a threaded linkage rod/nut, back off jam nuts and unthread.

4) Support the transmission (if necessary)
- If the control arm removal requires unbolting any transmission mounts or other parts, support the transmission with the trans jack to avoid load on the case.

5) Remove retaining hardware from selector arm
- Inspect whether the arm is held by a snap ring/circlip, a through‑pin, or a bolt:
- If snap ring: use snap‑ring pliers to remove the circlip from the selector shaft groove.
- If through‑pin: remove split pin/cotter pin and pull pin out with punch.
- If bolted: remove bolts with the socket/wrench.

6) Free the arm from the shaft
- Often the arm is pressed onto/over the selector shaft and can be corroded/seized. Apply penetrating oil around the joint and let soak (10–20 min).
- Tap the arm sideways with a soft hammer while pulling; use a puller or slide‑hammer on the arm if needed. Use a brass drift or wood block to avoid damaging machined surfaces.
- Avoid striking the selector shaft hard—damage to the shaft or internal bearings is a costly mistake.

7) Inspect shaft & components
- Clean the selector shaft with brake cleaner and a wire brush. Check for scoring, pitting or runout. Inspect the selector shaft seal and bushing(s) — replace if worn or leaking.
- Inspect the selector arm’s splines/holes and the mating surface. Replace items showing excessive wear.

8) Prepare replacement parts
- If the kit includes new snap ring, pivot bush, or locating pin, use them. Lightly grease mating surfaces (unless the service manual says dry). Apply anti‑seize if corrosion prone.
- Align the replacement arm to the selector shaft in the same position as original (use your earlier marks).

9) Install new arm
- Slide the arm onto the selector shaft. If it’s an interference fit, use a press tool or carefully tap on with soft‑face hammer and drift on the arm hub (not the shaft). Make sure the arm seats fully onto the shaft.
- Install new snap ring or pin, ensuring it seats into the groove. If pinned/bolted, torque bolts to OEM spec; if no spec available see caution below.

10) Reconnect linkage
- Reattach the shift linkage to the arm. Reinstall any retaining clips/cotter pins. Re‑adjust threaded linkage/jam nuts to restore neutral position (match your reference marks).
- Move the shifter through all gears by hand to check for correct travel and engagement. Ensure no binding and that the lever returns to neutral freely.

11) Finalize & test
- Reinstall any shields removed. Remove supports, lower vehicle.
- Reconnect battery negative. Start engine (if safe) and test gear selection with vehicle stationary. Drive test carefully to confirm accurate selection of all gears.
- Check for leaks at selector shaft seal and ensure no unusual noises.

How the specialized tools are used
- Snap‑ring pliers: compress/expand the circlip to remove/install without damaging groove.
- Slide‑hammer / puller: attaches to the arm or hub to apply controlled pulling force when arm is seized. Use gradual strokes while applying penetrating oil.
- Punch & drift: to drive out pins gently. Use a soft drift to avoid mushrooming the pin.
- Torque wrench: tighten bolts to spec (do not guess — over/under torque can damage threads or allow loosening).
- Transmission support jack: stabilizes gearbox if mounts need to be loosened — prevents case stress.

Replacement parts typically required
- Control/selector arm (OEM part specific to H41/H42/H50/H55F)
- Snap ring / circlip (often not reusable)
- Pivot bushings or ball/socket if worn
- Retaining pin / cotter pin / new bolts & nuts if original are corroded or single‑use
- Grease/anti‑seize, threadlocker as recommended
- Optional: selector shaft seal or bushing if disturbed or leaking

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting the transmission: can stress mounts or damage case. Always support before removing related hardware.
- Losing alignment marks: mark positions before disassembly to ensure proper reassembly and neutral gear alignment.
- Forcing the arm off with excessive impact: this can damage the selector shaft, requiring gearbox overhaul. Use penetrating oil, a puller, and controlled force.
- Reusing worn circlips, pins, or bushings: cheap parts; replace them to avoid repeat failure.
- Incorrect torque on bolts: overtightening strips threads or twists the arm; undertightening can cause loosening and mis‑selection.
- Not checking the selector shaft seal: if disturbed, it can leak and contaminate linkage.
- Failing to check shift quality after install: walk through all gears with the hand shifter before driving.

Torque & adjustment notes
- Torque specs vary by fastener; follow the Toyota service manual for the specific H‑series model. If you don’t have the manual, tighten small M6–M8 bolts to ~8–25 Nm and M10 bolts to ~40–60 Nm as a cautious general range — but this is not a substitute for OEM specs.

Final check
- Verify free movement, no binding, no play in the new arm, and secure circlip/pin. Road test gently and re‑check fasteners after 50–100 km.

Done.
rteeqp73

Early H55F Transmission Rebuild: PT3- Install, Test drives in FJ60 & Performance Upgrade! Its been a hell of a journey and lots of learnings to get this 5 speed transmission built and now finally installed. The camera work in ...

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