Tools & supplies
- Basic hand tools: sockets, ratchet, extensions, screwdrivers, pliers
- Torque wrench
- Fuel pressure gauge (to relieve/verify fuel rail pressure)
- Fuel injector puller (optional, model-specific)
- Fuel injector cleaning kit (on-car pressurized canister kit with adapters and pressure regulator) OR ultrasonic cleaner + injector flow bench (for off-car cleaning/testing)
- Compressed air or low-pressure air source with regulator
- Injector bench tester / flow tester (recommended) or at least a hand-held cleaning kit with spray/nozzle
- Clean ultrasonic-safe solvent or dedicated injector-cleaning fluid
- Small soft brushes, lint-free rags, picks
- New injector O‑rings and seals (kit for your vehicle), retaining clips if required
- Fuel line caps/plugs or shutoff valves to prevent spillage
- Safety gear: safety glasses, nitrile gloves, fire extinguisher (Class B), good ventilation
- Multimeter (for coil resistance check)
- Container to catch fuel, absorbent pads

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
- Work in a well-ventilated area; no open flames, cigarettes, or sparks nearby.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before removing electrical connectors or fuel rail.
- Relieve fuel system pressure before loosening the rail or lines (use fuel pressure gauge or follow Toyota procedure).
- Keep a fire extinguisher nearby and use drip pans/absorbent pads to contain spills.
- Replace any damaged O‑rings; never reuse brittle seals.
- Dispose of solvent and fuel-soaked waste according to local regulations.

Notes about Toyota H41/H42/H50/H55F gearbox
- Those are manual transmissions; gearbox model does not change injector cleaning procedure. Only potential impact: engine/transmission removal or vehicle layout may alter access to the intake and fuel rail. Proceed as you would on the same engine. No gearbox disassembly required.

Procedure — On-vehicle (quick/portable method using pressurized cleaning kit)
1. Preparation
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels, engine cool.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Relieve fuel pressure: locate fuel pressure Schrader (if equipped) or loosen fuel line at rail with rag, or follow Toyota service manual. Have rag/container ready.
- Remove engine cover, airbox, intake ducting as needed to access the fuel rail and injector connectors.
2. Label & disconnect
- Label each injector electrical connector or take photos for correct reinstallation.
- Disconnect injector connectors.
3. Connect cleaning kit
- Attach the cleaning kit adapter to the fuel rail feed port (or the Schrader valve) following kit instructions. If no service port, remove feed line and connect kit inline using fuel line adapter.
- Securely clamp or cap the fuel supply line to isolate the rail from the fuel tank.
- Fit the pressurized cleaning canister filled with approved cleaning solvent to the kit regulator.
4. Run cleaning
- With the cleaning kit supplying solvent under pressure to the rail, start engine (or crank per kit instructions). Many kits instruct to run engine at ~1,500–2,500 RPM in short intervals (e.g., 30–60 seconds) alternating with rest periods to avoid overheating.
- Monitor for leaks; never let the cleaning fluid run out of the canister while connected.
- Total on-car cleaning time typically 5–15 minutes of run time, per kit instructions.
5. Finish & verify
- Turn engine off. Disconnect cleaning kit, reconnect the fuel feed line to tank.
- Replace injector O‑rings and lubricate them lightly with clean engine oil or specified grease.
- Reconnect injector electrical connectors, reinstall intake components.
- Reconnect negative battery, turn key to ON to prime system, check for leaks.
- Start engine, check idle, listen for misfires; road test.

Procedure — Off-vehicle (thorough cleaning + testing — recommended)
1. Remove injectors
- Relieve fuel pressure, disconnect battery, remove intake parts and fuel rail.
- Remove retainers and pull injectors straight out; keep orientation order.
- Inspect injectors for obvious damage, burned tips, carbon build-up.
2. Visual clean & inspect
- Wipe exterior carbon and deposits from injector body. Remove and replace O‑rings/seals.
- Measure electrical resistance with multimeter; compare to spec. Replace if out of spec.
3. Ultrasonic cleaning
- Place injectors (no electrical parts submerged) in ultrasonic cleaner with recommended solvent. Follow manufacturer time (typically 15–30 minutes).
- Use intermittent pulses, then rinse with clean solvent and blow out with low-pressure air from the pintle side toward the injector body (do not exceed safe air pressure to avoid damaging internals; ~30 psi max recommended).
4. Flow testing and calibration
- Mount injectors on a flow bench or bench tester. Run a series of timed pulses at set pressure (e.g., 3.0 bar / 43 psi) and compare volume and spray patterns against spec or between injectors.
- Watch for dribble/leaks (leaking at rest indicates internal leak — replace).
- If flow is uneven after cleaning, send injectors to professional service or replace.
5. Reinstall
- Fit new O‑rings/seals on injectors, lubricate.
- Install injectors into rail/intake, torque rail bolts to spec.
- Reconnect electrical connectors and reassemble intake.
- Reconnect battery, prime fuel system, check for leaks, start engine, verify operation.

How the cleaning tools are used — specifics
- On-car pressurized cleaning kit: The kit replaces the fuel supply so compressed cleaning solvent is pushed through the injectors under pressure. Attach kit to rail feed or Schrader valve, seal fuel tank/feed, connect canister to regulator, set pressure per kit (commonly 40–60 psi), run engine per instructions so fuel rail and injectors are pulsed with cleaner. Do not use flammable cleaning fluid in sealed or unattended setups; always follow kit fluid safety.
- Ultrasonic cleaner: Uses cavitation to remove deposits. Place only the metal injector bodies so that electrical connectors and solenoids are not submerged (or mask them per cleaner instructions). Use the recommended solvent. After ultrasonic, immediately flow-test to flush loosened deposits.
- Flow bench/bench tester: Applies regulated fuel pressure and repeatable electrical pulses to each injector to measure volume and observe spray pattern. Use for calibration and to determine whether an injector is serviceable.

Common pitfalls & what to avoid
- Not depressurizing fuel system first — risk of spray, fire, injury.
- Reusing old brittle O‑rings — causes leaks. Always replace seals.
- Contaminant ingress — keep work area clean, cap open lines and ports.
- Using wrong solvent or household cleaners in ultrasonic bath — can damage internal coatings and seals or leave residues.
- Using excessive air pressure when blowing out injectors — can damage delicate pintles.
- Assuming cleaning always fixes poor flow — heavily worn or clogged injectors may need replacement or professional micro-flow calibration.
- Running the cleaning canister dry while connected — can introduce air and cause poor results or damage pump.
- Overheating injectors by excessive running without breaks.
- Ignoring electrical faults — if coil resistance out of spec, cleaning won’t fix it.

Replacement parts typically required
- Injector O‑ring kit (upper and lower seals)
- Retaining clips (if broken)
- Injector filters/strain screens (some injectors have replaceable inlet screens)
- Fuel filter (recommended to replace when doing injector work)
- Injectors themselves if beyond cleaning or out of electrical/flow spec

When to replace vs clean
- Replace if: cracked/burned tip, internal leak, coil resistance out of spec, flow numbers out of tolerance after bench testing, or after many miles with persistent symptoms.
- Clean if: spray pattern is dirty, slight clogging, and electrical tests are OK.

Final check
- After reassembly, verify there are no fuel leaks at rail, injectors, or lines with key ON (priming) and engine running.
- Scan for DTCs and confirm injector balance/trim values if you have a scan tool.
- Road test and monitor for misfires, hesitation, or rough idle.

That’s the full step-by-step procedure.
rteeqp73

Early H55F Transmission Rebuild: PT2- Detailed Reassembly After getting the bearings pulled I was able to finally dive into the H55f rebuild. I tried to detail every part of what I did. I found it very ...

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