Overview (why this is needed, in plain language)
- The parking brake holds the vehicle stationary when parked. Over time the shoes/linings wear, cables stretch or corrode, springs weaken, or oil contaminates the shoes. That makes the brake either not hold (safety hazard) or drag and overheat (wears parts, wastes fuel).
- Think of the brake like a hand squeezing a bike rim: when you pull the lever (handbrake), a cam or cable pushes the brake shoes outward so they press against the inside of a drum and stop rotation. If the shoes are thin, the hand must be pulled much farther to make contact, or if the cable is tight the shoes will always rub.

Which components you’ll see and what each does
- Handbrake lever (inside cab or on tractor fender): the operator control. Pulling it ratchets the mechanism and tensions the cable.
- Ratchet and pawl: the small toothed strip under the lever that locks the lever at a set number of clicks.
- Brake cable(s): steel wire running from the lever to the transmission/gearbox brake cam or to the brake cross shaft. Transmits pull.
- Clevis and pin: connection at the cable end; allows linkage movement. Adjusting here changes cable free play.
- Anchor bracket / mounting point: fixed point where shoes push against.
- Brake cam (or camshaft) or lever on the gearbox: when rotated by the cable/linkage it forces the shoes apart. It’s the “wedge” that drives the shoes.
- Brake shoes (two per drum): curved plates with friction lining riveted/glued on. They press on the drum to stop rotation.
- Return springs: pull shoes back off the drum when the brake is released.
- Hold-down pins/springs or anchor pins: locate the shoes and allow pivot.
- Drum (inside the gearbox or wheel hub): the rotating surface the shoes grip.
- Cover/inspection plate: removable plate giving access to the internal brake components.
- Adjuster (star wheel or threaded adjuster): used to alter shoe-to-drum clearance. On some tractors the main adjustment is at the cable clevis or an external nut at the handbrake lever.

Theory of operation (short)
- Pull lever → ratchet locks lever → cable pulls → cam rotates → cam pushes shoes outward against drum → friction stops rotation. Release lever → spring returns shoes → ratchet releases, cable slack returns.
- Proper operation needs a small clearance between shoe lining and drum when released. Too much clearance → long lever travel and poor holding. Too little → constant drag and overheating.

Common failure modes and symptoms
- Worn linings: lever needs many clicks, tractor rolls on slope. Remedy: replace shoes/linings.
- Broken/weak return springs: shoes stick or drag. Remedy: replace springs.
- Stretched or frayed cable / seized cable: lever travel increased, or brake won’t engage/disengage. Replace cable.
- Oil contamination (gearbox leak): linings glazed or soaked → poor friction. Clean and replace shoes; fix leak.
- Damaged cam lobes or worn pivot points: uneven braking, excessive play. Replace or refurbish cam/pivot.
- Ratchet/pawl wear: lever won’t lock or slips down. Service or replace ratchet.
- Misadjusted adjuster: either no holding or constant drag. Correct as below.
- Drum scoring or out-of-round: vibration, noise, reduced contact. Re-machine or replace drum.

Tools and supplies you’ll need
- Vehicle jack and stands or tractor supports / chocks (safety first)
- Wrenches & sockets set (common sizes)
- Screwdrivers, pliers (needle-nose and locking)
- Small hammer, punch (for pins)
- Wire brush, rag, brake-clean (or solvent)
- Light grease for pivots
- Replacement springs/shoes/cable if needed
- Replacement clevis pin cotter or split pin
- Feeler gauge (optional) or ability to feel light drag when turning drum
- Penetrating oil
- Flashlight

Safety first (don’t skip)
- Park on level ground and chock wheels that will remain on the ground.
- Ensure engine is off and key removed. If necessary disconnect battery negative to avoid accidental start.
- Support the machine securely on jack stands if you need to lift it; do not rely on a jack alone.
- Wear gloves and eye protection. Brake dust can be hazardous — avoid inhaling; use brake cleaner and wipe, don’t blow dust.

Step-by-step procedure (beginner-friendly)
1. Preliminary checks
- With the parking brake released, try to rotate the driven element (rear wheels or the transmission output) by hand. Note whether there is free rotation and how much resistance.
- Pull the handbrake fully and see if it locks within a normal lever travel (ratchet engages). If it takes many clicks or will not hold on a gentle slope, adjustment/repair is needed.

2. Access the brake
- Locate the inspection/cover plate on the gearbox or axle housing. On tractors with Perkins 4.107 / 4.108 / 4.99 engines this is typically on the final drive or transmission housing. Remove bolts and take off the cover to expose the brake cam, shoes and springs.
- If the brake is wheel/hub-mounted, remove wheel and hub drum to expose shoes.

3. Visual inspection (do this every time before adjusting)
- Look at lining thickness. If the friction lining is worn down to the rivets or is thin/uneven, replace shoes.
- Inspect springs: if crooked, stretched, rusty or broken, replace.
- Check for oil or grease on the linings or drum. Oil-soaked linings must be replaced and the leak source repaired.
- Check the cam surface and pivot – they must be smooth and not badly worn. Check the clevis pin and ratchet for wear.
- Check the cable for fraying, kinks or corrosion; ensure it moves freely when lever is operated.

4. Clean and prepare
- Use brake-clean or solvent to remove dust and grease from the drum and shoes (avoid inhalation). Clean the cam pivot and anchor points. Lightly wire-brush rust from drum surfaces if minor.
- Lubricate shoe pivot points and cam or pivot bushings with a smear of high-temperature grease—only at pivot points, not on friction surfaces.

5. Determine adjustment method
- Two common places to adjust: an internal star-wheel (between shoes) or an external cable clevis / adjuster nut at the handbrake lever or on the cable bracket.
- If a star-wheel adjuster exists between the shoes, adjust that first. If no internal adjuster or it’s seized, use the cable clevis.

6. Adjust internal star‑wheel (if present)
- With the cover off, rotate the star wheel to expand the shoes outward until the drum becomes hard to turn — you should feel a light drag.
- Then back the star wheel off a notch (or until the drum just turns freely with a slight resistance). The aim: a slight, even drag when drum is rotated by hand. Too tight causes drag and heat; too loose causes insufficient holding.

7. Adjust cable/clevis (if internal adjuster not present or to fine‑tune)
- Pull the handbrake lever up a little (not fully) so the ratchet engages a few clicks.
- Tighten the clevis nut or adjuster on the cable bracket until the lever locks within the normal range of travel (a moderate number of clicks) and the shoes contact the drum enough to hold but don’t drag when released.
- If there is an adjuster near the lever, set the lever travel to the recommended feel (should not be excessively long). If you feel unsure, adjust until the brake holds vehicle on a gentle slope and doesn’t drag when released.

8. Check ratchet engagement and pawl
- Ensure the pawl drops into the ratchet teeth firmly with each click and that it releases properly when releasing the lever. Repair/replace worn parts if the lever slips.

9. Re‑test and fine tune
- Replace the inspection cover (or reassemble hub/drum) and lower the machine so the wheel contacts the ground (leave chocks on opposite wheels if needed).
- With the vehicle in neutral and parking brake engaged, try to move the vehicle slightly (or test on a gentle slope). The brake should hold firmly.
- With the parking brake released, rotate the wheel/drum to ensure there is only light drag. If you get heavy drag, re-open and back off the adjuster a little.

10. Reassemble and final checks
- Tighten and secure all nuts, pins and the inspection cover. Fit any cotter/split pins.
- Test ratchet lever several times to ensure consistent locking and release. Road-test at slow speed, apply parking brake, and confirm holding ability.
- If anything abnormal (noise, smoke, smell of burning), stop immediately and re-check.

When to replace rather than adjust
- Lining is worn to rivets or very thin.
- Shoes are cracked, heavily glazed or oil soaked.
- Springs broken or cam/pivot excessively scored or worn.
- Cable frayed, frozen, or stretched beyond adjustment.
- Drum is deeply scored, out-of-round, or undercut and cannot be surfaced.

Troubleshooting quick guide (symptom → likely cause → fix)
- Handbrake lever has too many clicks and vehicle rolls: shoes worn, cable stretched, adjuster too loose → replace linings or cable; adjust star wheel/clevis.
- Brake drags when released: adjuster too tight, weak return springs, shoes warped → back off adjuster, replace springs/shoes.
- Lever won’t lock or slips down: worn ratchet/pawl or bent lever → replace components.
- Uneven braking / one wheel locks: uneven shoe wear, sticking cam, seized cable on one side → inspect and repair that side, replace parts as needed.
- Brake works then fails under load: oil contamination, glazed linings, or overheated linings → replace linings and fix leak, avoid immediate re-use without cure.

Maintenance tips to prevent repeat failures
- Periodically (seasonal) inspect cable free play and condition.
- Keep inspection cover sealed to prevent oil and dirt entry.
- Grease pivots lightly at intervals; do not lubricate friction surfaces.
- Replace springs and shoes in matched pairs/sides; don’t mix new and old.
- If gearbox leaks oil onto brakes, stop use until leak repaired and brake shoes replaced.

Final notes for a beginner
- Adjust until you achieve a slight, even drag on the drum when released and firm hold when engaged. “Slight drag” is the practical feel—not grinding or heavy resistance.
- Take your time, work safely, and replace worn bits rather than trying to force an adjustment to compensate for badly worn linings or a bad cable.
- If you’re unsure about internal wear limits, replace visibly thin linings or badly corroded hardware — it’s cheaper than a failure at the wrong time.

That’s the full process and the why/what/can-go-wrong. Follow these steps and you’ll have a safe, reliable parking brake on machines using the Perkins 4.107 / 4.108 / 4.99 era systems.
rteeqp73

PERKINS DIESEL Generator Upgrade Engine Trouble Pt.1 In this video we take a look at this underperforming gen set that is powered by a Perkins 6.354 diesel engine.

Cold Starting Up PERKINS Engines and Cool Sound This video features Cold Starting Up PERKINS Engines and Cool Sound. If you like the video hit the like button and SUBSCRIBE ...

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