Tools & supplies
- Floor jack (2‑3 ton) and jack pad or pinch‑weld adapter
- 4 jack stands (or 2 at a time if you do one end then the other)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug wrench / breaker bar and correct socket (usually 17/19/21 mm depending on wheel)
- Torque wrench (0–150 ft‑lb range) with correct socket
- Wire brush / rag (clean hub faces and studs)
- Tire pressure gauge, air compressor
- Gloves, eye protection
- Optional: small bottle of wheel‑stud lubricant only if specified by manufacturer, anti‑seize not recommended unless OEM calls for it

Safety precautions (do this first)
1. Park on a flat, level surface. Engage parking brake. If manual, leave in 1st gear (or reverse); if automatic, in Park.
2. Chock at least two wheels (opposite end of vehicle being lifted).
3. Wear eye protection and gloves. Never work only on a jack—use jack stands.
4. Use the factory jacking points (pinch weld or frame). Do not jack on oil pan, transmission case, or body panels.

Rotation considerations (before you start)
- Check tires for directional arrows. Directional tires only rotate front↔rear on the same side.
- If tires are staggered (different sizes front/rear) you may not be able to rotate.
- If vehicle has a full‑size spare and you want a 5‑wheel rotation, follow the 5‑tire pattern (spare goes into rotation).
- Check TPMS: some systems require a relearn after moving the spare into service or swapping rims.

Step‑by‑step rotation (rearward‑cross for RWD/4WD; forward‑cross for FWD)
1. Loosen lug nuts slightly on all wheels while car is on the ground: use breaker bar or lug wrench, turn counterclockwise. Don’t remove them yet.
2. Jack the vehicle at the front jacking point and place jack stands under recommended support points. Lower onto stands. Repeat for the rear if you plan to lift the whole car; otherwise do one end at a time.
3. Remove lug nuts and take off the wheel.
4. Clean hub contact face and studs with wire brush/rag. Inspect studs for thread damage and brakes for wear/leaks.
5. Mount the wheel in its new position per chosen pattern:
- RWD/4WD (rearward cross): Rear wheels → straight to front on same side; Front wheels → cross to opposite rear.
- FWD (forward cross): Front wheels → straight back on same side; Rear wheels → cross to opposite front.
- Directional tires: Front↔rear on same side only.
- 5‑tire rotation (full‑size spare): follow the OEM diagram (typical: spare → passenger rear; rear passenger → front passenger; front passenger → front driver; front driver → rear driver; rear driver → spare).
6. Hand‑start lug nuts so threads are aligned. Tighten them snug by hand.
7. Lower the vehicle enough so tires touch ground but the full weight is not on them (or lower fully if you removed all stands). Tighten lug nuts in a star/cross pattern in two stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to about 30% of final torque to seat the wheel.
- Stage 2: Torque to final spec using torque wrench in star pattern.
8. Torque spec: use the value in the owner’s manual. Typical Toyota passenger/ light‑truck lug torque is roughly 76–103 ft‑lb (103–140 N·m); many models use ~80–90 ft‑lb (108–122 N·m). Confirm exact spec.
9. Repeat for all wheels. If you removed only one end at a time, raise and support the other end and repeat.
10. If you used a spare in rotation, ensure it’s balanced and has correct pressure and check TPMS.
11. Recheck lug torque after 50–100 miles (80–160 km) of driving.

How the tools are used (brief)
- Floor jack: place jack pad under jacking point, pump handle to lift slowly. Never rely on it as sole support.
- Jack stands: set under manufacturer recommended support, lower vehicle onto stands slowly.
- Breaker bar/lug wrench: used to break loose tight lug nuts while wheel is loaded on ground to prevent spinning.
- Torque wrench: set to specified torque, tighten lug nuts in star pattern to ensure even clamping. Use the correct socket and apply steady force until wrench clicks or indicates reached value.
- Wire brush: removes corrosion from hub face so wheel sits flush.

Replacement parts & service items to consider
- Replace damaged lug nuts or stripped studs. If studs are damaged, replace and re‑torque.
- Valve stems (rubber) should be replaced if old or cracked—cheap insurance against leaks.
- TPMS sensors: batteries/units may fail during dismount—replace if faulty.
- If tires show uneven wear, consider tire balancing or alignment and inspect suspension components.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Lifting at incorrect jacking points (can damage sheet metal, gearbox, oil pan or transfer case).
- Not using jack stands.
- Loosening lug nuts after lifting the wheel free of ground (breaking them on the ground is safer).
- Cross‑threading studs by not hand‑starting nuts.
- Over‑ or under‑torquing lug nuts—always torque to spec and re‑check after driving.
- Ignoring directional/staggered tire limitations; forcing an improper rotation can damage tires or create poor handling.
- Using anti‑seize on studs without OEM guidance (changes torque readings and can lead to over‑tightening).
- Forgetting to check tire pressure and tread depth at each wheel.

Final checks
- Verify tire pressures to manufacturer spec.
- Inspect for rubbing, unusual noises after first few miles.
- Re‑torque lug nuts after 50–100 miles.

End.
rteeqp73

Early H55F Transmission Rebuild: PT2- Detailed Reassembly After getting the bearings pulled I was able to finally dive into the H55f rebuild. I tried to detail every part of what I did. I found it very ...

Early H55F Transmission Rebuild: PT2- Detailed Reassembly After getting the bearings pulled I was able to finally dive into the H55f rebuild. I tried to detail every part of what I did. I found it very ...

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