Tools & materials
- 10–19 mm metric socket set with ratchet and extension (common sizes: 10, 12, 14 mm)
- Combination wrenches
- Hose clamp pliers or narrow‑jaw pliers
- Flat screwdriver and small pick
- Torque wrench (for any bolts with specified torque)
- Clean shop rags, paper towels
- Nitrile gloves, safety glasses
- Brake cleaner / carburetor cleaner or parts cleaner
- Small wire brush or nylon brush
- Replacement PCV/CCV valve (OEM part for Hino Super F Series GH1H) and replacement O‑ring/grommet(s) and hose clamps if original are corroded
- Light penetrating oil (if bolts are seized)
- Drain pan for any oil drips
- Vacuum hand pump (optional) for valve testing
- Engine oil (small amount to lube O‑ring)

Safety & prep
1. Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock wheels. Ensure engine is OFF and fully cooled (hot diesel components hold heat).
2. Wear gloves and safety glasses. Keep rags and a drip pan handy for oil.
3. If working under covers or near electrical connectors, disconnect negative battery terminal if preferred for safety. Not strictly required for PCV replacement but reduces risk when working around sensors.

Locate the PCV/CCV valve
1. On Hino Super F Series (GH1H) the crankcase ventilation valve (PCV/CCV) is typically mounted on the valve cover or connected to an oil separator canister with a hose to the intake/turbo inlet. Consult your truck’s layout or manual for exact location — look for a small plastic/metal valve with a vacuum/hoses attached.

Removal (step‑by‑step)
1. Clear access: remove any engine covers or brackets that block access using appropriate sockets/wrenches. Keep track of bolts and their locations.
2. Loosen hose clamps: use hose clamp pliers or a screwdriver to loosen clamps on the intake hose and crankcase hose going to the valve. Slide clamps back and carefully twist hoses off the valve. Be prepared for a little oil in the hose. Collect drips with a rag/drip pan.
3. Disconnect any vacuum or breather lines clipped to the valve. Use pick/screwdriver to release clips if necessary.
4. Remove retaining fastener(s): if the valve is bolted to the cover, remove the bolt(s) with the appropriate socket. If it’s press‑fit into a rubber grommet, pull straight out while working it free with a pick if needed. Avoid twisting sharply. Apply penetrating oil on seized bolts and allow time to soak.
5. Withdraw valve assembly. Inspect the grommet/seal and mating surface.

Inspection & test
1. Visual check: look for cracks in the plastic valve body, heavy carbon/oil sludge, broken springs, or melted housings. If any damage, replace.
2. Functional check: using a hand vacuum pump, apply vacuum to the inlet — the valve should hold vacuum in a one‑way manner (hold or open depending on design). On simple PCV valves you can also blow/aspirate: air should flow one direction only and a rattling noise can indicate a stuck spring. If sticky or sludged, cleaning may temporarily help but replacement is preferred.
3. Inspect hoses and grommet: replace any hardened, cracked or oil‑saturated hoses and the grommet/O‑ring.

Cleaning (only if reusing)
1. Spray carb/parts cleaner on the valve and scrub with a nylon brush until carbon is removed. Do not submerge electrical components (if present).
2. Dry completely with compressed air or let air‑dry. Retest with vacuum pump.

Replacement parts required
- New PCV/CCV valve (recommended OEM Hino part for GH1H)
- New O‑ring/grommet seal(s)
- New hose(s) if cracked or softening and new clamps if corroded

Installation
1. Lubricate new O‑ring/grommet lightly with clean engine oil.
2. Insert valve straight into grommet/sealing boss. Ensure full seating and correct orientation (check arrow or marking for flow direction).
3. Reattach hoses: slide on and seat hoses completely; position clamps and tighten snugly — do not overtighten and crush hose. If there was a threaded fastener, snug it and torque to the workshop manual spec if available. If no spec, tighten to a firm stop — typically small bolts 6–10 Nm for plastic/cover fasteners — but consult the manual for accuracy.
4. Reconnect any vacuum lines and clips. Reinstall any covers/brackets removed.

Post‑service checks
1. Start engine and let it idle. Check for oil leaks around the valve and hose connections.
2. Listen/observe: any hissing or rough idle indicates vacuum leak or hose not seated. Inspect hoses and clamps again.
3. Road test and recheck. If engine codes or poor running persist, scan ECU and clear codes if necessary and investigate further (intake leak, turbo/inlet leaks).

Common pitfalls & tips
- Don’t reuse brittle hoses or cracked grommets — they cause vacuum leaks and oil leaks.
- Replacing only the valve and leaving old grommet often fails; replace the seal.
- Avoid overtightening plastic parts or crushing hoses with clamps.
- If valve is stuck due to sludge, cleaning can be temporary; replacement is best practice on diesel trucks.
- Keep a small rag or drip pan under the area — PCV hoses contain oil. Dispose of oily rags properly.
- If you’re unsure of torque specs for any bolts, consult the Hino workshop manual — stripping plastic bosses is common if overtorqued.
- After service, monitor for oil consumption/smoke — excessive crankcase pressure or a very plugged system suggests oil separator failure or blocked breather lines.

How the tools are used (quick)
- Ratchet/socket: remove bolts for covers or valve mounting. Use extensions for hard‑to‑reach bolts.
- Hose clamp pliers/pliers: compress and slide spring clamps; for worm clamps use screwdriver or nut driver to back off screws.
- Pick/screwdriver: gently pry out old O‑ring/grommet and remove clips.
- Vacuum hand pump: attach to valve port to verify one‑way operation and sealing.
- Parts cleaner & brush: remove carbon and oil sludge if reusing the valve.

Final note
Replace with OEM PCV/CCV and seals for reliable long‑term performance. If in doubt or if the crankcase ventilation system includes an oil separator/canister, replace the entire assembly per Hino manual.
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