Tools & consumables
- Metric socket/ratchet set (up to 32 mm), deep sockets, extensions, breaker bar
- Impact wrench (air or electric) and impact sockets
- Torque wrench (0–200+ N·m as required)
- Heavy-duty spring compressor (truck-rated) or strut spring press (bench press)
- Floor jack and heavy-duty jack stands (rated for the truck)
- Small hydraulic jack or transmission jack to support control arm/axle
- Ball-joint/separator pickle fork or tie-rod puller
- Pry bar, hammer, drift/punch
- Punch/scribe and marker for alignment marks
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar), wire brush
- Anti-seize compound, threadlocker (medium strength)
- Safety gear: eye protection, gloves, steel-toe boots
- Replacement fasteners if required (refer to manual)
- Replacement parts: upper strut mount (bearing if separate), strut cartridge or complete strut assembly (recommended if worn), coil spring isolator/dust boot/bump stop (recommended), new nuts/bolts if single‑use per manual
- Brake support strap or wire to hang caliper

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
- Work on level surface, chock rear wheels, engage park and key off.
- Always use rated jack stands; never rely on the jack to support the vehicle.
- Use a spring compressor rated for the spring size/weight. Never compress springs by hand or with incorrect tools.
- Stand clear of compressed springs; wear eye protection. If a spring compressor slips, it can be fatal.
- Support the control arm/axle before removing fasteners so the suspension doesn’t suddenly unload.
- Follow factory torque specs. If you don’t have the manual, do not guess torque values—get the spec.
- Replace mounts and springs in axle-pairs (both sides) for matched handling.

Preparation
1. Gather parts: upper strut mount kit (bearing if separate), dust boot/bump stop, new top nut(s) if one‑time torque type. Replace whole strut if cartridge worn/leaking.
2. Park, chock, and disconnect battery if you will be near electrical connectors/airbag circuits.
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly with vehicle on ground.

Removal (step-by-step)
1. Raise & support
- Lift the front of the truck at the recommended lift point and place heavy-duty jack stands under frame or axle per workshop manual.
- Remove wheel.

2. Access top mount
- Remove any cowl/plastic covers under the hood that give access to the top of the strut tower (GH1H usually has top nuts under cowl or in engine bay).
- Clean area and spray top nuts with penetrating oil.

3. Support lower control arm/axle
- Place a jack under the lower control arm/axle to support weight and keep spring preload from dropping suddenly when bolts are removed.

4. Disconnect attachments
- Disconnect sway bar end link from the strut (or link from control arm).
- Unclip brake hose/ABS sensor bracket from the strut body. Hang caliper with wire; do not let it hang on hose.
- If present, remove brake caliper and rotor only if needed for access; otherwise hang safely.

5. Remove lower mounting bolts
- Remove strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts (usually two). Use penetrating oil and back off with breaker bar/impact. Support knuckle to prevent it dropping away.
- If ball joint or tie-rod prevents separation, use a ball-joint separator or pry carefully. Do not damage CV shaft/bearing.

6. Remove top nuts
- With the lower supported, remove the top strut tower nuts (three typically) and pull the strut assembly up/out of the knuckle and out of the vehicle.
- If the top nut is seized, apply heat carefully or use penetrating oil; support the strut while breaking the nut.

Disassembly of strut (off vehicle)
7. Compress the spring
- Mount the strut assembly in a secure bench vise or hold it stable. Install the heavy-duty spring compressor hooks on opposite coils, seat them correctly, and compress evenly in small increments alternately until spring tension is off the strut top nut.
- Verify compressor seating after each turn. Never use two cheap two‑hook compressors; use a rated unit.

8. Remove top nut
- With spring compressed, remove the nut on the strut shaft that secures the mount (use appropriate socket). Keep the shaft from turning—use a hex key or holding tool as needed.

9. Remove old mount and inspect parts
- Remove strut mount, bearing, dust boot, bump stop. Inspect spring for cracks, corrosion; replace if damaged.
- Inspect strut rod for pitting/leakage; if leaking or damaged, replace strut cartridge/assembly.

Assembly (replacing mount)
10. Install new bump stop/dust boot
- Fit new bump stop and dust boot to the strut shaft.

11. Fit new mount and bearing
- Place the new bearing/mount onto the strut rod in the correct orientation (bearing rides against the strut mount top; write or mark orientation before disassembly). Lightly grease bearing race if specified.

12. Reassemble & decompress spring
- Seat the spring properly in the lower seat, ensure isolators are correctly placed.
- Tighten the top nut to snug while spring compressor still installed, then slowly and evenly decompress the spring until it is fully seated. Final torque of the top nut should be per factory spec—tighten with torque wrench.

Reinstallation (on vehicle)
13. Insert strut assembly
- Maneuver the assembled strut back into the strut tower, engage top studs and loosely secure top nuts to hold it in place (do not final torque yet).
- Align strut bottom into steering knuckle, insert lower bolts, hand-tighten nuts.

14. Torque sequence & settling
- With vehicle still on jack stands and suspension supported at ride height as required by the manual (many manufacturers require final torque with loaded suspension), torque lower strut-to-knuckle bolts to spec.
- Torque top strut tower nuts to spec. If the manual requires final tightening with vehicle at normal ride height, lower the vehicle onto the ground (or support to ride height) and re-torque per spec.

15. Reattach brake lines, ABS, sway bar links
- Reinstall sway bar link, brake hose brackets, ABS connectors. Replace any retaining bolts if single‑use.

16. Refit wheel and lower vehicle
- Torque wheel lug nuts to spec. Lower truck and torque suspension fasteners again if required.

17. Alignment
- Always perform a 4-wheel alignment after strut/strut mount replacement.

Tool usage notes (how to use key tools)
- Spring compressor: Mount hooks across coils opposite each other. Tighten evenly, alternating sides by small increments until visible slack on the top nut. Verify compressor teeth fully engaged and not contacting strut body. Compress only as much as needed.
- Impact gun: Use to free seized bolts; finish final tightening with torque wrench to spec. Avoid overtightening with impact on threaded rod (top nut especially).
- Torque wrench: Use appropriate range. Calibrate if old. Apply smooth steady torque until wrench clicks.
- Ball-joint separator: Position between control arm and knuckle, strike with hammer if necessary. Do not force tie-rod studs by hammering on the joint stud—use puller to avoid damage.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Using inadequate spring compressors: Use truck-rated compressors; cheap compressors can slip.
- Not supporting control arm/axle: Leads to sudden drop and damaged lines or personal injury—always support before removing bolts.
- Re-using worn mounts/bearings: Bearings wear silently; replace mounts and bearings as a set. If top mount makes noise at all, replace both sides.
- Incorrect bearing orientation: Mark parts before removal; install bearing in correct direction or steering will bind and wear prematurely.
- Forgetting to replace dust boot/bump stop: These protect the strut—replace them.
- Overstretching brake/ABS lines: When lowering suspension, check hose slack and brackets; do not let hoses bind.
- Not torquing at ride height: Some manufacturers require final torque at ride height—follow manual to prevent premature fastener loosening.
- Skipping alignment: Steering pull and uneven tire wear if alignment not done.

Replacement parts checklist
- Upper strut mount (with bearing or bearing separately)
- Strut cartridge or complete strut if leaking or rod damaged
- Spring isolator(s)
- Dust boot and bump stop
- New top nuts/bolts if specified single-use
- New lower mounting bolts/nuts if corroded or torque-to-yield

Final checks
- Road test at low speed, listen for clunks from mount area.
- Recheck torque on suspension fasteners after 100–200 km.
- Inspect for brake line/ABS routing integrity.

Follow the Hino GH1H workshop manual for exact torque specs, lift points, and any model-specific steps.
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