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HYUNDAI GETZ 2006 to 2011 Workshop Service Repair Manual Digital Download

Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: metric socket set (6–24 mm), ratchets, extensions, combination wrenches, long screwdriver set, hex/Allen keys.
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm).
- Transmission jack or sturdy floor jack + adapter.
- Engine support bar or engine hoist (if required).
- Pry bars, rubber/nylon mallet.
- Snap‑ring / circlip pliers.
- Bearing puller / slide hammer (for bearings/seals).
- Press or arbor/seal driver set (for installing bearings/seals).
- Drift punches, pin punch set.
- Feeler gauges, Vernier caliper / micrometer.
- Clutch alignment tool.
- Sealant, gasket scraper, brake cleaner / parts cleaner.
- Clean rags, drain pan, container for bolts/parts.
- New gearbox oil (manufacturer spec), new gaskets/seals.
- Replacement parts: shift forks (correct set for Getz gearbox), selector shaft/rail if worn, fork pivot pins/bushings, synchro rings (inspect/replace as needed), bearings/bushes (if worn), new input/output seals, gearbox cover gasket, clutch kit (recommend replacing while trans is out), gearbox mounting hardware if damaged.

Safety precautions
- Work on level ground. Chock rear wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Use jack stands; never rely solely on a jack to support the car.
- Use a transmission jack to support gearbox weight when removing/installing.
- Wear gloves, eye protection; clean oil spills immediately.
- Label/photograph assemblies and parts order for correct reassembly.
- Have a helper for heavy alignment steps.

Overview of procedure (high level)
1. Preparation and vehicle support.
2. Drain gearbox oil, remove ancillary components, remove gearbox from car.
3. Bench disassembly of gearbox to access shift forks (depending on damage may need to split case).
4. Replace shift forks, bushings/pins, inspect related components (synchros, rails, bearings).
5. Reassemble gearbox, fit new gaskets/seals, refill oil.
6. Reinstall gearbox, torque fasteners to factory specs, test shifts.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Prep
- Park level, engage parking brake, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery.
- Raise vehicle and support on jack stands with adequate clearance to use transmission jack.
- Drain gearbox oil into pan; dispose correctly.

2) Remove driveline & ancillary parts
- Remove center console/shift lever boot if needed to access internal detents.
- Remove any undertrays, heat shields blocking access.
- Disconnect front axles/drive shafts from trans (remove CV axle nuts, support hubs, or slide axles out of transmission if applicable).
- Disconnect speedometer cable/sensor, reverse light switch, electrical connectors from gearbox.
- Disconnect slave cylinder/hydraulic lines (cap or secure to avoid fluid loss) or remove clutch slave assembly (do not let it hang on hose).
- Remove starter motor for access.
- Support engine with engine support bar or jack under oil pan with block if necessary.

3) Remove gearbox from vehicle
- Support gearbox on transmission jack.
- Remove crossmember and gearbox mounting bolts.
- Remove bellhousing bolts to engine; use pry carefully to separate gearbox from engine (alignments can be tight).
- Lower transmission straight down and remove from under car.

Tool use notes:
- Transmission jack: cradle gearbox, raise/lower in controlled manner. Use straps to secure gearbox.
- Clutch alignment tool: used later to center clutch disc when reinstalling gearbox.

4) Bench work – accessing shift forks
- Clean exterior, remove gearbox top cover or selector cover to inspect selector mechanism first.
- If the shift forks are accessible via selector cover (some Getz variants): remove circlips/pins and slide selector rails out, then remove worn fork(s).
- If not accessible: gearbox must be split. Clean joint, remove all fasteners, separate case halves carefully using pry bars and soft mallet. Note orientation and location of shims and dowels; keep parts in order.
- Once open, identify selectors, rails, forks, synchro hubs and gear stacks.

5) Remove & inspect shift forks and related components
- Remove selector shafts/rails by removing retaining bolts, snap rings, or circlips. Use snap‑ring pliers to remove circlips safely.
- Pull forks off their shafts/pins. Some forks have small bushes/bearings or linings—inspect for wear, scoring or mushrooming.
- Inspect:
- Fork contact face (wear grooves).
- Fork toes (where they engage synchro hub) — must be true.
- Selector rail for wear/galling.
- Synchro rings, hub splines, splined shafts, gear teeth, bearings, input shaft splines.
- Fork pins/bushings for ovaling or movement.
- Replace shift forks if worn/damaged. Replace fork bushes, pins, selector rail if worn.
- Replace synchro rings if scoring, glazing or missing teeth. Replace bearings/seals if play or wear.

Tool use notes:
- Bearing puller/slide hammer: remove tight bushes/bearings or pilot bearings.
- Press or bearing driver: install new bushes/seals squarely without damage.
- Feeler gauges and calipers: measure wear, fork-to-gear clearances and bush thickness if required by manual.

6) Reassembly inside gearbox
- Clean all mating surfaces. Replace gaskets or use specified sealant.
- Reinstall forks onto rails in correct orientation and order. Keep original orientation and shim order if present.
- Fit new circlips/snap rings securely. Use new circlips where specified.
- Rotate shafts to ensure smooth movement of forks and full travel of selector mechanism.
- Check shift travel and engagement of synchro hubs manually.
- If gearbox was split, reassemble halves with new gasket/sealant; torque case bolts to spec and ensure dowel alignment.

Common pitfalls when reassembling:
- Not marking/retaining shims or the order of parts — leads to incorrect end float/backlash.
- Reusing worn snap rings, seals, or gaskets — replace them.
- Improperly seating fork bushes leading to binding or excess play.
- Missing grease on fork rails where required — use appropriate assembly lubricant, not engine oil.
- Cross-threading case bolts or overtorquing, causing warped case or stripped threads.

7) Reinstall gearbox to vehicle
- With clutch alignment tool in place, bring gearbox up with transmission jack; align input shaft to clutch splines and slide bell housing flush to motor.
- Install bellhousing bolts hand-tight then torque in correct sequence to factory values.
- Reconnect crossmember, mounts, starter, slave cylinder, electrical connectors, speed sensor, and reinsert drive shafts; torque axle nuts to spec.
- Refill gearbox to correct level with specified oil (check fill plug location and level procedure).
- Replace clutch/throwout bearing if not done—strongly recommended to service clutch while gearbox is out.

Tool use notes:
- Torque wrench: use to tighten bellhousing, axle and mount bolts to factory torque to avoid leaks and misalignment.
- Pry bars: minor alignment, but avoid prying on gearbox housing.

8) Final checks
- Lower vehicle, reconnect battery.
- Start engine, check clutch operation and allow to idle. Cycle through all gears with vehicle stationary to verify engagement and no abnormal noises.
- Road test carefully, verify smooth shifts and no leaks. Re-torque bolts after initial road test if required.

Replacement parts checklist (recommended)
- Shift forks (OEM correct set).
- Fork pivot pins / bushings.
- Selector rail/shaft (if worn).
- Synchro rings (as needed).
- Input/output seals, gearbox cover gasket, case gasket or sealant.
- Bearings that show excessive play or noise.
- Clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing) while gearbox is off.
- Gear oil.

Common pitfalls & troubleshooting
- Misaligned input shaft/clutch -> gearbox won’t fully engage: use alignment tool and center clutch before mating.
- Forks reinstalled reversed or out of order -> incorrect gear engagement or no 1/2/3 engagement: mark parts during disassembly.
- Reused worn synchronizers -> gear crunching, premature fork wear: inspect and usually replace synchros.
- Lost or mixed shims -> endplay/backlash issues -> noise and potential gear damage: keep shims in original order.
- Not replacing seals -> oil leaks after reassembly.

Final notes
- Exact procedures, torque values and dimensional limits vary by Getz model and gearbox code. Use the Hyundai workshop manual for model-specific torque specs, clearances and service limits.
- If you are not set up for case splitting and bearing presses, consider sending gearbox to a dedicated transmission shop; fork replacement can require precise assembly and measurement.

Done.
rteeqp73

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