Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: metric socket set (6–24 mm), ratchets, extensions, combination wrenches, long screwdriver set, hex/Allen keys.
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm).
- Transmission jack or sturdy floor jack + adapter.
- Engine support bar or engine hoist (if required).
- Pry bars, rubber/nylon mallet.
- Snap‑ring / circlip pliers.
- Bearing puller / slide hammer (for bearings/seals).
- Press or arbor/seal driver set (for installing bearings/seals).
- Drift punches, pin punch set.
- Feeler gauges, Vernier caliper / micrometer.
- Clutch alignment tool.
- Sealant, gasket scraper, brake cleaner / parts cleaner.
- Clean rags, drain pan, container for bolts/parts.
- New gearbox oil (manufacturer spec), new gaskets/seals.
- Replacement parts: shift forks (correct set for Getz gearbox), selector shaft/rail if worn, fork pivot pins/bushings, synchro rings (inspect/replace as needed), bearings/bushes (if worn), new input/output seals, gearbox cover gasket, clutch kit (recommend replacing while trans is out), gearbox mounting hardware if damaged.
Safety precautions
- Work on level ground. Chock rear wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Use jack stands; never rely solely on a jack to support the car.
- Use a transmission jack to support gearbox weight when removing/installing.
- Wear gloves, eye protection; clean oil spills immediately.
- Label/photograph assemblies and parts order for correct reassembly.
- Have a helper for heavy alignment steps.
Overview of procedure (high level)
1. Preparation and vehicle support.
2. Drain gearbox oil, remove ancillary components, remove gearbox from car.
3. Bench disassembly of gearbox to access shift forks (depending on damage may need to split case).
4. Replace shift forks, bushings/pins, inspect related components (synchros, rails, bearings).
5. Reassemble gearbox, fit new gaskets/seals, refill oil.
6. Reinstall gearbox, torque fasteners to factory specs, test shifts.
Step-by-step procedure
1) Prep
- Park level, engage parking brake, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery.
- Raise vehicle and support on jack stands with adequate clearance to use transmission jack.
- Drain gearbox oil into pan; dispose correctly.
2) Remove driveline & ancillary parts
- Remove center console/shift lever boot if needed to access internal detents.
- Remove any undertrays, heat shields blocking access.
- Disconnect front axles/drive shafts from trans (remove CV axle nuts, support hubs, or slide axles out of transmission if applicable).
- Disconnect speedometer cable/sensor, reverse light switch, electrical connectors from gearbox.
- Disconnect slave cylinder/hydraulic lines (cap or secure to avoid fluid loss) or remove clutch slave assembly (do not let it hang on hose).
- Remove starter motor for access.
- Support engine with engine support bar or jack under oil pan with block if necessary.
3) Remove gearbox from vehicle
- Support gearbox on transmission jack.
- Remove crossmember and gearbox mounting bolts.
- Remove bellhousing bolts to engine; use pry carefully to separate gearbox from engine (alignments can be tight).
- Lower transmission straight down and remove from under car.
Tool use notes:
- Transmission jack: cradle gearbox, raise/lower in controlled manner. Use straps to secure gearbox.
- Clutch alignment tool: used later to center clutch disc when reinstalling gearbox.
4) Bench work – accessing shift forks
- Clean exterior, remove gearbox top cover or selector cover to inspect selector mechanism first.
- If the shift forks are accessible via selector cover (some Getz variants): remove circlips/pins and slide selector rails out, then remove worn fork(s).
- If not accessible: gearbox must be split. Clean joint, remove all fasteners, separate case halves carefully using pry bars and soft mallet. Note orientation and location of shims and dowels; keep parts in order.
- Once open, identify selectors, rails, forks, synchro hubs and gear stacks.
5) Remove & inspect shift forks and related components
- Remove selector shafts/rails by removing retaining bolts, snap rings, or circlips. Use snap‑ring pliers to remove circlips safely.
- Pull forks off their shafts/pins. Some forks have small bushes/bearings or linings—inspect for wear, scoring or mushrooming.
- Inspect:
- Fork contact face (wear grooves).
- Fork toes (where they engage synchro hub) — must be true.
- Selector rail for wear/galling.
- Synchro rings, hub splines, splined shafts, gear teeth, bearings, input shaft splines.
- Fork pins/bushings for ovaling or movement.
- Replace shift forks if worn/damaged. Replace fork bushes, pins, selector rail if worn.
- Replace synchro rings if scoring, glazing or missing teeth. Replace bearings/seals if play or wear.
Tool use notes:
- Bearing puller/slide hammer: remove tight bushes/bearings or pilot bearings.
- Press or bearing driver: install new bushes/seals squarely without damage.
- Feeler gauges and calipers: measure wear, fork-to-gear clearances and bush thickness if required by manual.
6) Reassembly inside gearbox
- Clean all mating surfaces. Replace gaskets or use specified sealant.
- Reinstall forks onto rails in correct orientation and order. Keep original orientation and shim order if present.
- Fit new circlips/snap rings securely. Use new circlips where specified.
- Rotate shafts to ensure smooth movement of forks and full travel of selector mechanism.
- Check shift travel and engagement of synchro hubs manually.
- If gearbox was split, reassemble halves with new gasket/sealant; torque case bolts to spec and ensure dowel alignment.
Common pitfalls when reassembling:
- Not marking/retaining shims or the order of parts — leads to incorrect end float/backlash.
- Reusing worn snap rings, seals, or gaskets — replace them.
- Improperly seating fork bushes leading to binding or excess play.
- Missing grease on fork rails where required — use appropriate assembly lubricant, not engine oil.
- Cross-threading case bolts or overtorquing, causing warped case or stripped threads.
7) Reinstall gearbox to vehicle
- With clutch alignment tool in place, bring gearbox up with transmission jack; align input shaft to clutch splines and slide bell housing flush to motor.
- Install bellhousing bolts hand-tight then torque in correct sequence to factory values.
- Reconnect crossmember, mounts, starter, slave cylinder, electrical connectors, speed sensor, and reinsert drive shafts; torque axle nuts to spec.
- Refill gearbox to correct level with specified oil (check fill plug location and level procedure).
- Replace clutch/throwout bearing if not done—strongly recommended to service clutch while gearbox is out.
Tool use notes:
- Torque wrench: use to tighten bellhousing, axle and mount bolts to factory torque to avoid leaks and misalignment.
- Pry bars: minor alignment, but avoid prying on gearbox housing.
8) Final checks
- Lower vehicle, reconnect battery.
- Start engine, check clutch operation and allow to idle. Cycle through all gears with vehicle stationary to verify engagement and no abnormal noises.
- Road test carefully, verify smooth shifts and no leaks. Re-torque bolts after initial road test if required.
Replacement parts checklist (recommended)
- Shift forks (OEM correct set).
- Fork pivot pins / bushings.
- Selector rail/shaft (if worn).
- Synchro rings (as needed).
- Input/output seals, gearbox cover gasket, case gasket or sealant.
- Bearings that show excessive play or noise.
- Clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing) while gearbox is off.
- Gear oil.
Common pitfalls & troubleshooting
- Misaligned input shaft/clutch -> gearbox won’t fully engage: use alignment tool and center clutch before mating.
- Forks reinstalled reversed or out of order -> incorrect gear engagement or no 1/2/3 engagement: mark parts during disassembly.
- Reused worn synchronizers -> gear crunching, premature fork wear: inspect and usually replace synchros.
- Lost or mixed shims -> endplay/backlash issues -> noise and potential gear damage: keep shims in original order.
- Not replacing seals -> oil leaks after reassembly.
Final notes
- Exact procedures, torque values and dimensional limits vary by Getz model and gearbox code. Use the Hyundai workshop manual for model-specific torque specs, clearances and service limits.
- If you are not set up for case splitting and bearing presses, consider sending gearbox to a dedicated transmission shop; fork replacement can require precise assembly and measurement.
Done. rteeqp73
Hyundai Getz Full interior Detailing & Headlight Restoration Hyundai Getz Full interior Detailing & Headlight Restoration.
Hyundai getz problem fix Engine light flashing car shakes sparks in engine wires if you have this problem you need to replace the spark plugs wires you ...
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Below is a compact, workshop-level, step‑by‑step procedure for removing, inspecting/repairing and refitting the cylinder head on a Hyundai Getz, with the engineering theory for each action and how the repair corrects common faults. This is a general professional workflow — consult the exact factory service manual for the Getz engine variant you are working on for specific torque values, bolt sequences, timing marks and service limits.
Preparation (what you need and why)
- Tools/consumables: full metric socket set, breaker bar, torque wrench, angle gauge (if bolts are torque‑to‑yield), cam/chain locking tools, valve spring compressor, straightedge + feeler gauges, dial gauge (if measuring lift/runout), cylinder leakage/compression tester, coolant pressure tester, solvent/brushes, gasket scraper, new cylinder head gasket, new head bolts, valve stem seals, coolant, engine oil, RTV where specified.
- Why: correct tools and new consumables prevent rework and ensure clamping force and sealing. Torque‑to‑yield bolts must be replaced; surface cleaning and measurement are required to verify sealing faces.
1) Diagnose & document before disassembly
- What: perform compression/leakdown, coolant pressure test, oil inspection (milky oil), check for white smoke, rough idle, misfires, overheating. Note timing mark positions and mark timing belt/chain orientation.
- Theory and how it fixes the fault: confirms whether head gasket failure, cracked head, valve sealing or timing issues are present. Results guide whether full head work, gasket replacement, or block work is needed.
2) Safety & prepare engine bay
- What: disconnect battery, drain coolant and oil, remove air intake, alternator/AC belts or ancillaries as needed, remove radiator fan shroud if required.
- Theory: prevents electrical shorts, spills, and provides access. Draining avoids contamination and allows safe head removal.
3) Remove external systems and label everything
- What: detach intake manifold, exhaust manifold (unbolt at head), fuel rail/injectors or throttle body, coolant hoses, vacuum lines, sensors, wiring harness clips; label and photograph.
- Theory: the head is connected to many systems; careful disconnection prevents damage and ensures correct reassembly and routing.
4) Remove valve train/cam carriers (overhead cams)
- What: rotate engine to TDC on cylinder 1, record cam timing positions, remove cam covers, loosen cam cap bolts incrementally in sequence, remove camshafts, then remove rocker arms/shafts or followers (keep parts in order).
- Theory: camshafts and valve gear must be removed to free the head. Keeping everything in order preserves valve timing relationships and makes measuring valve clearance/timing straightforward after refit.
5) Release head bolts and remove head
- What: loosen head bolts in reverse of tightening sequence and in multiple passes; lift off head (may need gentle prying). Keep bolts in order if non‑YTD. Remove head carefully with an assistant if needed.
- Theory: multi‑pass and reverse-sequence removal prevents warpage of the head. Proper removal avoids bending or cracking the head.
6) Initial inspection on bench
- What: inspect gasket face and block deck for breaches, check for blown gasket signs between cylinders/coolant/oil galleries, inspect combustion chambers for foreign material, inspect pistons for impact/damage.
- Theory: visual signs identify location of breach (e.g., coolant tracks, corrosion). This informs whether gasket alone is the cause or if head/block are damaged.
7) Check head flatness and for cracks
- What: clean surfaces, use a straightedge and feeler gauge across multiple axes to check warpage against spec; pressure test or magnaflux the head for cracks (especially between valves and coolant jackets).
- Theory: warpage breaks the flat mating surface required for gasket sealing; cracks allow coolant/compression crossover. Resurfacing or replacing the head fixes sealing problems; crack repair often requires replacement.
8) Inspect valves, seats, guides and valve springs
- What: use a light to inspect valve seating, use leak/test with solvent to check seating, measure valve stem play, check springs for free height and weakness; replace worn guides/seals and lap or grind valves if needed.
- Theory: leaking valves cause compression loss and misfires. Reconditioning seats and new seals restore combustion sealing and prevent oil burning/cooling leaks.
9) Machine work if required
- What: if head is warped beyond spec, have it skimmed to spec; machine valve seats, replace guides and valves as required. Ensure crown and chamber volumes remain within limits.
- Theory: resurfacing re‑establishes a true plane so the gasket can seal. Valve seat reconditioning restores metal-to-metal sealing so combustion pressure stays in the cylinder.
10) Check/block inspection
- What: inspect engine block deck for nicks, corrosion, or ridge at top of cylinders; measure deck flatness; check cylinder bores for scoring. Repair/machine block if required.
- Theory: a compromised block deck prevents proper compression sealing even with a new head gasket. Ensures new gasket and head make correct contact.
11) Cleanliness and preparation for reassembly
- What: thoroughly clean head and block surfaces with approved solvent; remove all old gasket material; inspect and clean coolant/oil passages; install new valve stem seals.
- Theory: contaminants or old gasket remnants prevent proper sealing and can cause leaks. New seals prevent oil entering combustion chamber.
12) New head gasket and head bolts
- What: fit the correct new head gasket (do not reuse), replace head bolts (especially if torque‑to‑yield). Lightly oil bolt threads if manual instructs (check manual).
- Theory: head gasket is the sealing interface; new bolts ensure correct clamping force and avoid bolt stretching failures.
13) Head seating and torquing
- What: place head on block, hand‑start bolts, tighten in workshop sequence in stages to final torque. If bolts are angle type, use the specified torque‑then‑angle method (or full angle sequence) and replace with new bolts as required.
- Theory: staged tightening uniformly compresses the gasket to create a continuous seal and prevents distortion of the head. Proper clamping keeps combustion gases, oil and coolant correctly separated.
14) Refit camshafts and re‑establish timing
- What: reinstall camshafts, cam caps torqued in sequence, set cam timing per marks, check timing chain/belt tensioners and replace if worn, set valve clearances as spec (where applicable).
- Theory: correct valve timing and clearances are critical for valve-to-piston clearance and combustion timing. Incorrect timing causes misfires, valve contact with pistons, and poor performance.
15) Reassemble manifolds and ancillaries
- What: fit exhaust manifold with new gaskets/bolts, intake manifold, fuel system connections, sensors, hoses, belts, reconnect battery. Replace thermostat and coolant if indicated.
- Theory: proper sealing of intake/exhaust and correct routing of hoses ensures engine breathes, fuels, and cools correctly.
16) Fluids, bleeding and checks
- What: refill oil and coolant, prime oiling system if necessary (turn engine with starter without starting to build oil pressure), bleed cooling system of trapped air, check for leaks.
- Theory: air in cooling system causes overheating; oil must circulate before running to avoid dry start damage.
17) Start‑up and test
- What: start engine, monitor oil pressure, engine temperature, listen for abnormal noises, check for external leaks; run to operating temp, perform leak‑down or compression test to verify repairs.
- Theory: ensures repairs restored compression and sealing. Any residual issues (white smoke, poor compression) point to incomplete sealing or timing issues.
18) Break‑in and final verification
- What: follow break‑in procedure for new valve seats/gaskets (moderate load and RPM for first few hundred km), re‑check torque on accessible fasteners per manual, re‑bleed and recheck levels.
- Theory: components settle under heat and torque cycles; recheck to ensure persistent sealing.
How the repair fixes common faults (brief)
- Blown head gasket: Replaces failed gasket and restores clamping force; resurfacing fixes head warpage that prevented sealing. New bolts ensure correct clamping.
- Coolant entering oil / milky oil: Repair eliminates cross‑passage between oil and coolant galleries caused by gasket breach or cracks.
- Overheating: Replacing gasket and correcting head flatness prevents combustion hot spots/coolant leakage and restores coolant flow integrity.
- Low compression / misfire from one or more cylinders: Valve reseating/valve jobs and head reconditioning restore combustion chamber sealing so cylinder pressure returns to spec.
- White smoke / coolant burning: Fixing leaks/cracks and replacing seals stops coolant entering combustion chambers.
- Persistent oil burning/blue smoke: Replacing valve stem seals and repairing guides prevents oil from being drawn past seals into combustion chambers.
Key workshop cautions (no fluff)
- Always use the correct factory torque sequence and values; torque‑to‑yield bolts must be replaced and torqued exactly per procedure.
- Cleanliness is critical — even small debris on mating surfaces causes leaks.
- Verify timing precisely; incorrect timing causes severe engine damage.
- Pressure‑test and measure before deciding to resurface or replace the head.
- If head is cracked between valve seats and coolant jackets, replacement is usually the safest option.