Tools & supplies
- Metric socket set (10 mm commonly for cover bolts) with 3/8" ratchet and 6" extension
- Torque wrench (in-lb or ft-lb; settable) — see torque spec below
- Spark-plug boot puller or long-nose pliers + shop towel
- Plastic gasket scraper or plastic putty knife
- Small flat screwdriver (for PCV removal and hose clamps)
- Brake cleaner or solvent, lint-free rags
- Rubber gloves and safety glasses
- Gasket sealant (RTV) — optional, high-temp silicone (small dab only if needed)
- Replacement parts: new valve cover gasket kit (gasket, rubber grommets/washer seals), new PCV valve (recommended), spark plug tube seals if included in kit
- Magnetic tray or small container for bolts/parts
- Shop light

Safety precautions
- Work with engine fully cool. Hot aluminum and oil cause burns.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid accidental cranking or electrical short when removing wires.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Keep rags away from moving belts.
- Chock wheels and set parking brake if vehicle is not on level ground.

Quick notes before starting
- Use OEM or quality aftermarket gasket kit that includes grommets. Do not reuse old gasket or hardened grommets.
- Torque small cover bolts lightly to avoid stripping head threads or crushing gasket.
- Keep dirt out of engine — cover spark plug wells with clean rags when removing cover if debris is present.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Let engine cool. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Remove air cleaner assembly or any intake snorkel blocking access to valve cover.
- Label spark plug wires 1–4 (mark with tape) and remove them from spark plugs using a boot puller. Remove wires from cap/boots carefully — twist while pulling. Keep wires in order.

2) Remove ancillary items
- Remove PCV valve from valve cover (pull straight out). If rubber grommet is stuck, pry lightly with small screwdriver.
- Disconnect any vacuum hoses, brackets, or wiring clips attached to the valve cover or brackets that block removal.

3) Remove valve cover bolts
- Using 10 mm socket and ratchet, loosen all valve cover bolts in a crisscross pattern a little at a time. Remove bolts and washers/grommets; keep parts organized and note orientation of any special washers.
- Tip: Put bolts and washers in a magnetic tray so nothing gets lost.

4) Lift off valve cover
- Pry the cover free gently with a plastic scraper or your hands; it may stick from old gasket. Do not pry against the head with metal tools. If the cover is stubborn, work around perimeter evenly.
- Immediately set the cover upside down on a clean surface to avoid contamination inside.

5) Inspect and clean
- Inspect inside of cover for sludge, broken gasket bits, or cracked grommets. Clean the cover interior with rag and solvent.
- Using a plastic scraper, remove old gasket material from the valve cover groove and cylinder head mating surface. Clean surfaces with brake cleaner and a lint-free rag until dry. Avoid solvent flowing into oil passages — block spark plug wells with rags if needed.

6) Install new parts
- Install new rubber grommets/washers on bolts (from kit). Fit new gasket into the valve cover groove, ensuring it sits fully and evenly. If kit includes spark plug tube seals, install them per kit instructions.
- If the timing cover corner is known to leak (where two surfaces meet), place a small pea-size dab of high-temp RTV (silicone) on the head at that corner only, then seat the gasket over it. Do not smear RTV around — use minimal amount. Many technicians do not use RTV except at that single corner if needed.

7) Reinstall valve cover
- Carefully lower the valve cover straight down onto the head, making sure gasket stays seated and not pinched. Ensure any hoses or wires are routed correctly and not caught under the cover.
- Hand-start all bolts with washers/grommets.

8) Torque bolts
- Tighten bolts gradually in a crisscross pattern to final torque. Recommended torque: 5–8 ft-lb (7–11 N·m). Use a torque wrench: tighten each bolt in sequence to the specified value; do not over-torque.
- Explanation of torque wrench use: set wrench to target value, apply smooth steady force until it clicks (or indicates) and stop immediately. Do not use cheater bars.

9) Reassembly
- Reinstall PCV valve (replace if clogged). Reattach hoses and brackets.
- Reinstall spark plug wires in correct order; seat boots firmly on plugs and distributor cap.
- Reinstall air cleaner assembly and any removed components.
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.

10) Test and final checks
- Start engine; run at idle and check for oil leaks around valve cover. Inspect after warm-up. Re-torque is not normally necessary if torque was correct.
- After 50–100 miles, recheck for leaks and re-inspect bolt torque if you suspect loosening (rare).

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Over-tightening bolts — strips aluminum threads or compresses gasket, causing leaks. Use torque wrench and low torque spec.
- Reusing old gasket or grommets — leads to leaks. Replace gasket and rubber parts.
- Allowing dirt/debris into rocker area — cover open spark plug wells and work cleanly.
- Pinching gasket when seating cover — ensure gasket sits fully in groove, then lower straight down.
- Excessive RTV — will squeeze into engine or prevent proper seating. Use minimal RTV only at a specific corner if recommended.
- Not replacing PCV valve — clogged PCV can pressurize crankcase and force oil past a new gasket.
- Forgetting to route spark plug wires/hoses correctly — can burn wires on exhaust or cause misfires.

Replacement parts recommended
- Valve cover gasket kit (gasket, rubber grommets/washer seals)
- PCV valve
- Spark plug tube seals (if included or worn)
- Optional: new valve cover bolts/washers if original are corroded

That’s it — perform the job methodically, use the correct torque, keep everything clean, and replace rubber parts.
rteeqp73

TOYOTA 22RE ENGINE REBUILD - Part 1/2 - Teardown and analysis of a poor running 22R Toyota legend... My 1985 Celica GT Coupe was barely running when I bought it, but I knew that I could bring the legendary 22R-E back to life!

Tacoma 3.4 vs pickup 22re Tacoma is 3.4 5 speed street tires Pickup is 22re 5 speed half tread mud tires and in the end it broke a cv.

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