1) Preparation — identify, spec and safety
- Identify transmission type (manual, automated manual (AMT) or automatic). Theory: automatics use torque converters and hydraulic control; level checks and fluid chemistry differ from manuals (which are primarily gear lubrication). Using the wrong fluid or wrong level changes friction characteristics and hydraulic pressures and will worsen faults.
- Obtain the exact OEM fluid specification, capacity, filter/gasket part numbers and torque values from the Hino 700 workshop manual. Theory: fluids differ in viscosity, additives and friction modifiers; OEM spec preserves designed film strength, clutch friction and valve-body timing.
- Safety: chock wheels, set parking brake, lift vehicle on rated hoist or securely jack and support with stands, wear PPE, have drain pan and spill containment. Theory: working under a truck requires rigid supports to prevent collapse and contamination.

2) Warm the transmission
- Run the engine and cycle gears (with brake applied) briefly to bring fluid to normal operating temperature (typically moderate warmth, not scalding). Then stop engine. Theory: warmed oil flows more readily and carries suspended contaminants out; some varnish is softened so drains better. Many level checks are specified at particular temperatures.

3) Access and prepare to drain
- Place a clean fluid collection pan under the transmission drain plug/pan. If model has a transmission oil cooler line drain port or torque converter drain, position to capture all fluid.
- Clean exterior around drain and fill/filler plugs to avoid dirt ingress. Theory: preventing external contamination protects internal surfaces and bearings.

4) Drain the fluid
- Remove the drain plug (or unbolt pan). Allow fluid to drain until flow nearly stops. For automatics, remove the pan slowly — some will spill residual jockey fluid and sometimes a separate torque converter drain is required. Theory: removing old fluid removes degraded base oil, spent additives, and entrained particles. Drain while warm gives better purge of contaminants and varnish.
- Inspect drained fluid color/odor: dark brown/black, burnt smell or metal flakes indicate overheating, clutch wear or gear damage. Theory: burnt fluid means additive depletion and reduced film strength; metallic particles indicate wear—severity informs further actions.

5) Remove pan and filter (if applicable)
- For transmissions with a replaceable filter or screen, unbolt pan, remove filter(s), O-rings, magnets and inspect. For automatics, there’s usually a paper/mesh filter; for manuals there may be no filter, sometimes a screen or magnet only.
- Clean pan, magnets and mating surfaces; remove sludge but do not harshly wire brush mating surfaces. Theory: filter traps particulate; magnets collect ferrous wear; inspecting captures evidence of abnormal wear patterns (excessive metal flakes, large pieces indicate failing bearings/gears).

6) Inspect internal condition
- Inspect filter debris and pan for:
- Fine black powder = clutch friction wear/lining degradation.
- Shiny metallic flakes = gear/shaft/bearing wear.
- Large chunks or scoring = severe internal damage.
- Inspect pan gasket surface, drain/fill plug threads and seals. Theory: the type and amount of debris predicts whether a simple fluid+filter change suffices or further teardown/repair required.

7) Replace filter and sealing elements
- Install new filter, seals, pan gasket or O-rings as specified. Torque bolts in the recommended pattern and spec. Theory: a new filter restores flow and particle trapping; correct torque ensures uniform sealing, prevents leaks and distortion that could cause pressure loss in hydraulic circuits.

8) Refit pan/drain plug and torque correctly
- Clean bolts and mating surfaces, install a new gasket or sealant as specified, torque to workshop manual values in the recommended sequence. Theory: correct sealing prevents air ingress and loss of hydraulic pressure; uneven torque can warp pan leading to leaks.

9) Refill with specified fluid to initial level
- Use OEM fluid. Fill through filler/dipstick tube or fill plug until at specified level method:
- Manuals/gearboxes: fill until fluid appears at the bottom of the fill hole with vehicle level.
- Automatics (many Hino automatics): initial fill to approximate level, then final level is set with engine running and fluid at specified temperature (workshop manual will give temperature and procedure). Theory: correct level is critical—underfill causes cavitation, pump starvation and overheating; overfill causes aeration, foaming and erratic hydraulic control.
- Use a clean funnel and filter to avoid contamination.

10) Circulate, check for leaks and re-level
- Start engine (or cycle transmission through gears per manual) to circulate fluid. For automatics, move selector through positions to distribute fluid. Monitor for leaks, fluid pressure (if instrumented) and unusual noises.
- Allow fluid to reach specified operating temperature, then recheck level per the manual procedure (with engine idling, selector position, temperature using thermometer or built-in gauge). Adjust to correct level. Theory: fluid expands with temperature — level must be correct at operating temp to ensure correct sump volume and hydraulic pressure.

11) Functional test and road test
- With vehicle on ground, test gear engagement, smoothness of shifts, listen for noises and check for leaks. Road test under load: accelerate, decelerate, shift through gears. After the test, recheck fluid level and leaks. Theory: circulation and load test confirm restored lubrication, hydraulic pressure and clutch engagement characteristics. Re-check confirms no loss of fluid and no contamination ingress during service.

12) Interpret findings and when further repair is required
- If pan/filter showed excessive metal or chunks, or if post-change symptoms persist (noise, slipping, burnt smell), further diagnostic teardown (inspecting bearings, gears, clutches, valve body, pump) is required. Theory: fluid change replaces lubricant and removes contaminants but cannot repair mechanically damaged components; persistent symptoms indicate worn/damaged parts that are source of metal debris/overheating.
- If shifting/slip/noise improved after fluid/filter change, the fault was likely caused by degraded fluid (loss of additives, viscosity change, contamination) or clogged filter reducing flow. Replacement restores film strength, friction properties, hydraulic pressure and cooling, which fixes slipping, harsh shifts and noise caused by insufficient lubrication/hydraulic control.

13) Disposal and documentation
- Dispose used fluid and contaminated materials per regulations. Record fluid type, volume, filter used, odometer, date and any abnormal findings for service history. Theory: traceability helps detect recurring issues early.

How the repair (fluid + filter change) fixes common transmission faults — theory summary
- Lubrication and film strength: Fresh oil restores viscosity and additive package (anti-wear, extreme-pressure, anti-foam) so metal-surfaces maintain a protective lubricating film; this reduces frictional wear and noise.
- Friction control (automatic clutch packs and band friction): Correct fluid chemistry/friction modifiers control clutch/slip coefficients so engagement and shift timing are stable. Old or wrong fluid causes slipping, harsh or delayed shifts.
- Hydraulic pressure and cooling: In automatics hydraulic circuits depend on fluid pressure—clean, non-aerated fluid flows predictably and pumps efficiently. Fresh fluid dissipates heat better and avoids foaming or cavitation that cause loss of pressure and erratic operation.
- Contaminant removal: Draining and changing filters removes abrasive particles and varnish that score bearings, gears and valve bodies. Removing trapped particles reduces further wear and restores valve movement.
- Electrical/hydraulic valve function: Contaminants and varnish can stick valves and solenoids; clean fluid and new filter reduce binding, improving valve timing and shift quality.

Warnings and cautions (concise)
- Use the exact OEM fluid and follow the Hino 700 workshop manual for torque values, capacities and temperature-based level procedures.
- Do not overfill. Do not use incompatible fluids or quick “flushing” machines unless manual permits — aggressive flushing can dislodge deposits and cause further blockages.
- If significant metal debris or burnt fluid is present, do not assume fluid change alone will fix the problem — further inspection/overhaul likely required.

End.
rteeqp73

HINO 700 E13C LOW POWER

The all-new Hino 700 Series Long edition video Safer, cleaner and Connected. The all-new 700 Series rewrites the rules in safety, emissions, performance and comfort. Find out ...

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Short summary: The upper control arm (UCA) is the suspension “link” that locates the wheel vertically and fore/aft and controls camber/caster as the wheel moves. Replacing it restores steering geometry and safe handling when the arm, its bushings, or ball joint are worn or damaged. Below is a beginner-friendly, workshop-level, step‑by‑step guide with component descriptions, theory, common failures, required tools, safety steps, detailed procedure, and final checks. Read and follow the truck’s official Hino 700 Workshop Manual for exact bolt torques, special tools, and vehicle‑specific notes — I give technique and reasoning, not factory torque tables.

Safety first (non‑negotiable)
- Work on a flat, level surface. Chock rear wheels. Park in gear (or P) and apply parking brake.
- Use a rated heavy‑vehicle jack and certified axle stands or a full commercial lift. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, steel‑toe boots. Have a fire extinguisher nearby.
- Disconnect battery if you will detach brake ABS sensors or work near electrics.
- Use proper lifting points from Hino manual. Suspension parts can spring loose — keep hands/face clear.
- If bushings/bolts are rusted, prepare penetrating oil and impact extraction tools; expect heat and sparks — be cautious around fuel lines.

What the part does — theory and analogies
- Function: The upper control arm connects the truck’s frame to the steering knuckle (or spindle) and, together with the lower arm (if present), controls the vertical motion of the wheel and its orientation (camber) and rotational axis (caster). It also transfers lateral and longitudinal loads from the wheel into the chassis.
- Analogy: Think of the wheel and knuckle as your hand, the lower arm as your forearm, and the upper control arm as your upper arm. The shoulder (frame mounting points) lets your arm swing in a controlled arc so the hand stays pointed roughly the same direction while you move.
- Ball joint and bushings: The UCA pivots on rubber/urethane bushings at the frame and usually connects to the knuckle via a ball joint. The bushings absorb vibration and allow small angular movement; ball joints allow the knuckle to steer and move up/down.
- Why replace: Wear in the ball joint or bushings introduces play — the wheel moves unpredictably, alignment shifts, handling degrades, and tire wear accelerates. A failed ball joint can let the knuckle separate — a dangerous situation.

Key components you will encounter (detailed)
- Upper control arm (UCA) assembly: steel forged or welded arm with mounting points for frame bushings and ball joint.
- Frame mounting bushings: rubber or polyurethane sleeves pressed into the arm ends or in frame brackets, sometimes using a bolt through them.
- Ball joint (integral or serviceable): threaded stud and tapered shank that fits into the knuckle; usually has grease fitting and dust boot.
- Steering knuckle / spindle: the upright that carries the hub and connects to UCA and lower arm.
- Castle nut and cotter pin (or prevailing torque nut): secures ball joint stud to knuckle.
- Bolts/nuts for UCA-to-frame: large high‑grade fasteners, sometimes with tapered washers or shims.
- Sway bar link (if attached to UCA) and shock/strut mounts (if attached nearby) — may need disconnection.
- Wheel hub, brake caliper/rotor (or drum) — may need partial removal or pulling the hub to give clearance.
- Grease zerks (fittings): for lubrication after install if the arm or ball joint is greasable.
- Dust boots, seals: protect ball joint and bushings.

Symptoms prompting replacement
- Clunking or knocking over bumps.
- Excessive play at the wheel, felt through steering.
- Uneven or rapid tire wear (inner/outer wear).
- Steering wander, poor tracking, looseness.
- Visible torn ball joint boot, leaking grease, or cracked bushings.
- Measurable free play when checking ball joint (see inspection below).

Inspection before starting
- Jack wheel and support axle so wheel hangs freely (or use lift). Check for play by moving wheel at 12 and 6 o’clock and at 9 and 3 o’clock.
- Visually inspect UCA for cracks, deformed metal, rust fatigue, broken welds.
- Check bushings for splits, excessive movement, or metal‑to‑metal contact.
- Inspect ball joint boot for tears or grease leakage; check for vertical or rotational play in ball joint.
- Check mounting bolts for elongation or corrosion.

Tools & materials (typical heavy‑truck workshop list)
- Hino workshop manual (for torque specs and special notes).
- Heavy vehicle jack or shop lift, rated axle stands.
- Wheel chocks.
- Standard & metric socket/ratchet set, large breaker bar.
- Impact wrench (air or electric) for stubborn nuts.
- Torque wrench rated for service (cover truck fastener torques).
- Ball joint puller / pickle fork / hydraulic press or pitman arm puller style tool sized for truck ball joints.
- Hammer, drift, pry bars.
- Puller for steering knuckle if necessary.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench).
- Heat source (oxy/acetylene or heat gun) — use only if needed and safe.
- Wire brush, anti‑seize, threadlocker (per workshop manual).
- New control arm assembly (OEM or equivalent), replacement bushings/ball joints if replacing only components.
- New nuts, bolts, cotter pins (replace cotter pins and safety wire).
- Grease gun and appropriate grease.
- Brake cleaner, rags, shop towel.
- Safety gear.

Step‑by‑step procedure (typical workflow; adapt for Hino specifics)
Note: follow Hino 700 Workshop Manual for exact sequence and torque values. I present method and reasoning.

1) Preparation
- Park, chock, put vehicle in gear and lift using correct lift points, or jack and place stands under frame/axle per manual.
- Remove wheel assembly: loosen wheel nuts before lifting, then remove after vehicle lifted.

2) Access and removal of obstructions
- Remove brake caliper (hang it with wire; don’t let it hang by hose) or drum assembly as needed to give space. Remove ABS sensor or wiring clips if in the way.
- Remove any sway bar links or shock absorber lower attachments that interfere with UCA removal.
- If required, remove hub/rotor or loosen hub nut to allow knuckle movement off the hub.

3) Support the steering knuckle and/or lower arm
- Use a jack or sling to support the knuckle or hub so the brake lines and hoses are not strained when the UCA is detached. Never let knuckle droop on hoses.

4) Detach ball joint from knuckle
- Remove cotter pin and castle nut (or nut). Use penetrating oil if frozen.
- Use a ball joint separator/puller: position puller and apply controlled force to pop the tapered stud out. If using a pickle fork, be aware it can damage the ball joint boot — acceptable only if replacing the joint/arm.
- If stud is rusted in, apply heat carefully to the knuckle around the taper, then reattempt puller.

5) Remove UCA-to-frame bolts
- Remove bolts/nuts that hold the UCA to the frame bushings. Support the arm with a jack as you remove these; the arm can drop suddenly and painfully.
- On some Hino models the bushings press into frame brackets; bolts may be through bushings and require removal of bolt and bracket.

6) Remove UCA
- Remove the arm from the vehicle. Inspect mounting brackets and fastener holes for elongation or damage.

7) Prepare new arm
- Compare new arm to old: same length, mounting hole positions, ball joint direction, grease zerk locations.
- If replacing only ball joint or bushings, press these into new/old arm using a hydraulic press and correct adapters; do not strike the ball joint into place with hammers.

8) Install new UCA
- Position new arm and loosely install frame mounting bolts finger tight to hold it in place. Do not fully torque yet unless manual specifies installing at unloaded position.
- Reattach ball joint to the knuckle: insert stud into taper, install nut, and tighten to near final torque, but do not fully torque if the manual requires vehicle at ride height for bushing pre‑load. If using a castle nut, align and insert a new cotter pin after torquing to spec.

Important note on bushing pre‑load: Some heavy vehicle bushing bolts must be torqued with the suspension at ride height (load) to avoid preloading or biasing the bushing when the vehicle sits on its tires. If the manual specifies this, support the chassis and lower axle to ride height before final torque. If the manual does not require this, torque per procedure. Always follow Hino instructions.

9) Reconnect associated parts
- Reattach sway bar links, shock lower bolts, brake components, ABS sensors and wiring. Reinstall hub/rotor/hub nut to spec.

10) Greasing
- If the UCA or ball joint has zerks, pump grease until boot is full and clean any expelled old grease. Use manufacturer-specified grease.

11) Final torquing
- Tighten all fasteners to Hino factory torque values in recommended sequence (frame bolts, ball joint nut, other links). Replace cotter pins and safety devices. Use threadlocker where specified.

12) Wheel reinstall and lowering
- Reinstall wheel, torque lug nuts to spec in star pattern.
- Lower vehicle to ground (if torqued with vehicle at ride height earlier, recheck torques after lowering if required). If torquing at ride height was required earlier, raise vehicle and lower per procedure or follow manual.

13) Wheel alignment
- After replacing any control arm, a full alignment (caster, camber, toe) by a qualified alignment shop is required. The UCA replacement changes geometry; driving without alignment causes rapid tire wear and poor handling.

14) Road test and recheck
- Perform a slow road test to check for noises, steering feel, and handling. Recheck all fasteners after 50–100 km and after initial road test.

Common problems and how to handle them
- Seized bolts: use penetrating oil, an impact tool, heat (with care) or cut out studs and replace. Replace any stretch/elongated bolts with new, correct‑grade fasteners.
- Ball joint taper stuck in knuckle: use proper puller; do not use excessive hammering that can crack the knuckle.
- Damaged dust boots/bushings during removal: if boots split, the joint is contaminated; replace ball joint or whole arm.
- Incorrect torque procedure: torquing bushings with suspension unloaded can preload bushings, causing premature wear and steering pull. Follow Hino’s torque sequence and ride‑height instructions.
- Reused cotter pins or nuts: always use new cotter pins; do not reuse single‑use fasteners.
- Thread damage: repair threads with helicoil or replace bracket/bolt as per manual.
- Grease contamination: keep grease ports and boots clean. Contaminated grease accelerates wear.
- Alignment out of range: can cause steering instability; do not skip alignment.

Testing and verification
- Visual recheck of all fasteners and cotter pins.
- Jack vehicle to verify suspension travel has no binding.
- Check for wheel play at knuckle after installation.
- Professional 4‑wheel alignment to Hino specs.
- Road test: listen for clunks and check steering center and return‑to‑center behavior.

Maintenance tips
- Grease fittings: maintain regular grease intervals per vehicle schedule.
- Periodic inspections: check boots and bushings at each service interval.
- Replace both sides if one arm is worn — aging tends to be similar, and unmatched components create alignment asymmetry.
- Keep replacement parts OEM or OEM‑equivalent rated for the vehicle weight and duty cycle.

Why this matters (final summary)
- A worn UCA or ball joint degrades steering precision, increases tire wear, and risks catastrophic failure. The job requires correct lifting, controlled disassembly, correct press/puller methods, and final geometry alignment. Doing the work correctly restores safe handling and prevents quick re‑failure.

Remember: This guide explains method and reasoning. For the Hino 700 Series, follow the Hino 700 Workshop Manual for exact torque values, special tools, and model‑specific steps (certain model years/options can differ). Work safely and replace any single‑use fasteners as instructed.
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