1) Preparation — identify, spec and safety
- Identify transmission type (manual, automated manual (AMT) or automatic). Theory: automatics use torque converters and hydraulic control; level checks and fluid chemistry differ from manuals (which are primarily gear lubrication). Using the wrong fluid or wrong level changes friction characteristics and hydraulic pressures and will worsen faults.
- Obtain the exact OEM fluid specification, capacity, filter/gasket part numbers and torque values from the Hino 700 workshop manual. Theory: fluids differ in viscosity, additives and friction modifiers; OEM spec preserves designed film strength, clutch friction and valve-body timing.
- Safety: chock wheels, set parking brake, lift vehicle on rated hoist or securely jack and support with stands, wear PPE, have drain pan and spill containment. Theory: working under a truck requires rigid supports to prevent collapse and contamination.

2) Warm the transmission
- Run the engine and cycle gears (with brake applied) briefly to bring fluid to normal operating temperature (typically moderate warmth, not scalding). Then stop engine. Theory: warmed oil flows more readily and carries suspended contaminants out; some varnish is softened so drains better. Many level checks are specified at particular temperatures.

3) Access and prepare to drain
- Place a clean fluid collection pan under the transmission drain plug/pan. If model has a transmission oil cooler line drain port or torque converter drain, position to capture all fluid.
- Clean exterior around drain and fill/filler plugs to avoid dirt ingress. Theory: preventing external contamination protects internal surfaces and bearings.

4) Drain the fluid
- Remove the drain plug (or unbolt pan). Allow fluid to drain until flow nearly stops. For automatics, remove the pan slowly — some will spill residual jockey fluid and sometimes a separate torque converter drain is required. Theory: removing old fluid removes degraded base oil, spent additives, and entrained particles. Drain while warm gives better purge of contaminants and varnish.
- Inspect drained fluid color/odor: dark brown/black, burnt smell or metal flakes indicate overheating, clutch wear or gear damage. Theory: burnt fluid means additive depletion and reduced film strength; metallic particles indicate wear—severity informs further actions.

5) Remove pan and filter (if applicable)
- For transmissions with a replaceable filter or screen, unbolt pan, remove filter(s), O-rings, magnets and inspect. For automatics, there’s usually a paper/mesh filter; for manuals there may be no filter, sometimes a screen or magnet only.
- Clean pan, magnets and mating surfaces; remove sludge but do not harshly wire brush mating surfaces. Theory: filter traps particulate; magnets collect ferrous wear; inspecting captures evidence of abnormal wear patterns (excessive metal flakes, large pieces indicate failing bearings/gears).

6) Inspect internal condition
- Inspect filter debris and pan for:
- Fine black powder = clutch friction wear/lining degradation.
- Shiny metallic flakes = gear/shaft/bearing wear.
- Large chunks or scoring = severe internal damage.
- Inspect pan gasket surface, drain/fill plug threads and seals. Theory: the type and amount of debris predicts whether a simple fluid+filter change suffices or further teardown/repair required.

7) Replace filter and sealing elements
- Install new filter, seals, pan gasket or O-rings as specified. Torque bolts in the recommended pattern and spec. Theory: a new filter restores flow and particle trapping; correct torque ensures uniform sealing, prevents leaks and distortion that could cause pressure loss in hydraulic circuits.

8) Refit pan/drain plug and torque correctly
- Clean bolts and mating surfaces, install a new gasket or sealant as specified, torque to workshop manual values in the recommended sequence. Theory: correct sealing prevents air ingress and loss of hydraulic pressure; uneven torque can warp pan leading to leaks.

9) Refill with specified fluid to initial level
- Use OEM fluid. Fill through filler/dipstick tube or fill plug until at specified level method:
- Manuals/gearboxes: fill until fluid appears at the bottom of the fill hole with vehicle level.
- Automatics (many Hino automatics): initial fill to approximate level, then final level is set with engine running and fluid at specified temperature (workshop manual will give temperature and procedure). Theory: correct level is critical—underfill causes cavitation, pump starvation and overheating; overfill causes aeration, foaming and erratic hydraulic control.
- Use a clean funnel and filter to avoid contamination.

10) Circulate, check for leaks and re-level
- Start engine (or cycle transmission through gears per manual) to circulate fluid. For automatics, move selector through positions to distribute fluid. Monitor for leaks, fluid pressure (if instrumented) and unusual noises.
- Allow fluid to reach specified operating temperature, then recheck level per the manual procedure (with engine idling, selector position, temperature using thermometer or built-in gauge). Adjust to correct level. Theory: fluid expands with temperature — level must be correct at operating temp to ensure correct sump volume and hydraulic pressure.

11) Functional test and road test
- With vehicle on ground, test gear engagement, smoothness of shifts, listen for noises and check for leaks. Road test under load: accelerate, decelerate, shift through gears. After the test, recheck fluid level and leaks. Theory: circulation and load test confirm restored lubrication, hydraulic pressure and clutch engagement characteristics. Re-check confirms no loss of fluid and no contamination ingress during service.

12) Interpret findings and when further repair is required
- If pan/filter showed excessive metal or chunks, or if post-change symptoms persist (noise, slipping, burnt smell), further diagnostic teardown (inspecting bearings, gears, clutches, valve body, pump) is required. Theory: fluid change replaces lubricant and removes contaminants but cannot repair mechanically damaged components; persistent symptoms indicate worn/damaged parts that are source of metal debris/overheating.
- If shifting/slip/noise improved after fluid/filter change, the fault was likely caused by degraded fluid (loss of additives, viscosity change, contamination) or clogged filter reducing flow. Replacement restores film strength, friction properties, hydraulic pressure and cooling, which fixes slipping, harsh shifts and noise caused by insufficient lubrication/hydraulic control.

13) Disposal and documentation
- Dispose used fluid and contaminated materials per regulations. Record fluid type, volume, filter used, odometer, date and any abnormal findings for service history. Theory: traceability helps detect recurring issues early.

How the repair (fluid + filter change) fixes common transmission faults — theory summary
- Lubrication and film strength: Fresh oil restores viscosity and additive package (anti-wear, extreme-pressure, anti-foam) so metal-surfaces maintain a protective lubricating film; this reduces frictional wear and noise.
- Friction control (automatic clutch packs and band friction): Correct fluid chemistry/friction modifiers control clutch/slip coefficients so engagement and shift timing are stable. Old or wrong fluid causes slipping, harsh or delayed shifts.
- Hydraulic pressure and cooling: In automatics hydraulic circuits depend on fluid pressure—clean, non-aerated fluid flows predictably and pumps efficiently. Fresh fluid dissipates heat better and avoids foaming or cavitation that cause loss of pressure and erratic operation.
- Contaminant removal: Draining and changing filters removes abrasive particles and varnish that score bearings, gears and valve bodies. Removing trapped particles reduces further wear and restores valve movement.
- Electrical/hydraulic valve function: Contaminants and varnish can stick valves and solenoids; clean fluid and new filter reduce binding, improving valve timing and shift quality.

Warnings and cautions (concise)
- Use the exact OEM fluid and follow the Hino 700 workshop manual for torque values, capacities and temperature-based level procedures.
- Do not overfill. Do not use incompatible fluids or quick “flushing” machines unless manual permits — aggressive flushing can dislodge deposits and cause further blockages.
- If significant metal debris or burnt fluid is present, do not assume fluid change alone will fix the problem — further inspection/overhaul likely required.

End.
rteeqp73

HINO 700 E13C LOW POWER

The all-new Hino 700 Series Long edition video Safer, cleaner and Connected. The all-new 700 Series rewrites the rules in safety, emissions, performance and comfort. Find out ...

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