Straight, in-order explanation with theory and how the repair fixes the fault.

Theory — what a CV joint is and why it fails
1. Purpose: A constant-velocity (CV) joint transfers engine torque through the axle while allowing steering angle and suspension travel without changing output speed. Typical types: Rzeppa (outer) and tripod/tripod roller (inner).
2. Components: hardened races and balls/rollers, cage, axle shaft, rubber boot, grease, clamps. The boot contains grease and keeps out dirt/water.
3. Failure mode: the common failure sequence is boot damage → grease loss and contaminant ingress → abrasive wear of races/balls or rollers → increased clearances, noise (clicking on turns), vibration, eventual binding or tooth failure.
4. What you feel: outer-joint failure = loud clicking on tight turns; inner-joint or shaft imbalance = vibrations under acceleration; visible torn boot/grease fling = early sign.
5. Repair theory: replacing the CV joint and/or axle restores the correct bearing geometry, proper lubrication, and a sealed environment. That removes play, restores smooth torque transfer and velocity constancy, eliminates noise and vibration, and prevents contamination of the transaxle differential when the seal is renewed.

Ordered procedure (generic front-drive or independent front axle). Consult factory manual for vehicle‑specific fasteners, torques, and any ABS/sensor notes.

Preparations
1. Safety: chock rear wheels, lift vehicle on quality jackstands, wear eye protection and gloves.
2. Gather parts/tools: new CV joint or complete axle assembly, correct grease (usually supplied), new boot clamps, replacement axle nut and cotter pin if required, pry bar, breaker bar/impact for axle nut, torque wrench, ball-joint separator, hammer and punch, socket set, snap-ring pliers, axle puller if needed, service manual values.

Diagnosis confirmation (before disassembly)
3. Confirm symptom and inspect boot: operate steering under load; if clicking on turns and boot is torn/grease missing, outer joint is suspect. Inner faults present as vibration. This ensures you repair the actual failed component, not a healthy part.

Removal (order and reasoning)
4. Loosen axle nut while car on ground: prevents wheel spinning when breaking the fastener; axle nut clamps the axle splines into the hub—undoing it frees the outer joint.
5. Raise vehicle, remove wheel: standard access.
6. Disconnect components to free the axle from the hub: remove lower-ball-joint/link pinch bolt or separate control arm as needed so steering knuckle can swing out. Reason: the hub and knuckle normally trap the axle; freeing them lets the axle be withdrawn.
7. Detach outer tie rod or sway link if needed for clearance; absorb loads from components into supports to avoid stressing boots.
8. Withdraw the axle from the hub: push through or tap out the splined end. If stuck, use a slide hammer or selective prying on the hub side—support the knuckle to avoid damage. Reason: separates the outer joint from hub interface.
9. Separate inner end from transaxle/differential: pry the inner joint out of the transmission stub carefully. Some designs have snap rings—compress and pull. Be prepared for a small gear oil leak and have rags/drip pan. Reason: frees axle for replacement.

Disassembly and inspection (why each check matters)
10. Inspect removed axle and boots: confirm damaged area, check for scoring, pitting, broken cage, excessive play. If races/balls are badly worn or shaft splines damaged, replace entire axle shaft rather than servicing joint. Theory: surface damage cannot be reliably corrected by repacking—geometry lost.
11. Decide repair approach: replace only CV joint (if joint available and shaft splines and inner joint are good) or replace entire half‑shaft assembly (recommended on many modern cars because it’s quicker and more reliable). Replacing the entire shaft ensures correct factory mating and reduces risk of future leakage.

Installation and how it fixes the fault
12. If fitting a replacement joint: pack joint with proper high-temperature CV grease supplied; ensure entire race area is filled. Slide new boot over shaft, assemble joint onto shaft engaging splines and retaining circlip/snap-ring as intended. Proper grease and sealing prevent the original failure pathway (lubrication and contamination).
13. Position boot correctly and secure clamps: use crimp or ear-type clamps tightened per spec. A secure boot prevents grease escape and contaminant ingress—this is the preventive part of the repair.
14. Reinstall inner end into transaxle: seat fully until snap ring engages; do not pry against seals. This restores correct axial location and sealing to prevent gearbox fluid loss.
15. Reinsert outer end into hub splines: align and press/tap the hub to engage the splines fully. Install new axle nut and torque to factory specification. Proper torque compresses the hub bearing preload as designed and clamps the joint, eliminating axial play that can cause vibration.
16. Reassemble suspension/steering components and torque all fasteners to spec. Replace cotter pin or self-locking fasteners as required. Correct suspension geometry and secure fasteners ensure the joint sees the loads it was designed for.
17. Refill/check transaxle/differential fluid level if any leak occurred during removal. A proper fluid level prevents internal wear.

Post‑repair checks (how these confirm the fix)
18. Lower vehicle, torque axle nut to final spec with vehicle at ride height if required by the manual. Some designs require final torque with weight on wheels to set bearing preload properly.
19. Road test: test slow tight turns and acceleration for absence of clicking and vibration. A quiet, smooth drive confirms restored constant-velocity behavior.
20. Inspect boot clamps after short mileage for tightness and torque re-checks of critical fasteners.

How the repair fixes the fault — concise summary
- Replacing the joint/shaft restores correct bearing geometry and tight clearances maintained by the race/ball or roller system, removing play that causes clicking and vibration.
- Fresh grease provides the lubrication film needed to prevent metal‑to‑metal contact, and a new boot and clamps recreate the sealed environment to keep contaminants out.
- Proper seating, spline engagement, and correct torque prevent axial and rotational play, keeping load paths as designed so torque is transmitted smoothly.

Key cautions (no yapping)
- Use factory torque values; over- or under-torquing causes bearing or hub damage.
- If internal races/shaft splines are damaged, replace the entire half‑shaft.
- Dispose grease and contaminated boots properly.
- If unsure of any step, follow the specific Toyota service manual for the exact B-series vehicle variant.

That’s the ordered procedure with the theory and how each repair action corrects the root cause.
rteeqp73

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