Purpose in one line
- Replace a worn or damaged shift fork in a Hino 700 series manual transmission so the gearbox can reliably select and hold gears without grinding, slipping out of gear, or prematurely wearing synchronizers and dogs.

Theory — how it works (simple, with analogy)
- The gearbox is essentially stacks of gears on shafts; gears that run at different speeds are tied to the output shaft by a sliding collar (hub/sleeve) to make a gear “live.” Shift forks are the mechanical fingers that push those sliding collars along a rail to engage a selected gear. Synchronizers match rotational speeds; detents and interlocks control sequencing and keep the forks from moving on their own.
- Analogy: think of a set of stacked CDs (gears). The hub (sleeve) is a sliding hand that locks a particular CD to the spindle. The shift fork is the arm that moves the hand. If the arm is worn or bent the hand won’t position correctly → grinding, popping-out, or no selection.

Why this repair is needed
- Symptoms that indicate a fork problem:
- Grinding when selecting or while moving.
- Gears pop out under load.
- Hard selection into one or more gears.
- Excessive play in shift linkage or uneven wear on synchronizer rings/dogs.
- Causes of fork failure:
- Normal wear at the contact face (fork tip) and rail bushings.
- Overloads or abusing shifting (forcing gears, skipping clutch).
- Contaminated/abraded oil, broken teeth, or bent rail from impact.
- Not replacing run-out components (bushings, pins) that let the fork walk and wear.

Main components you will touch (detailed descriptions)
- Shift lever/knob & shift tower: driver interface; transfers motion to linkage.
- Shift linkage/rods: connect cab lever to transmission selector shaft or lever.
- Selector shaft / selector lever: input for fork rails; in some Hino transmissions a selector shaft rotates to move rails via grooves/detents.
- Shift rails (selector shafts/rods): long cylindrical rails that run fore-aft inside the case; forks slide on these rails.
- Shift forks: stamped/forged parts with a “yoke” that fits the hub/sleeve. Tip faces ride in the groove of the hub/sleeve. They usually have bushings where they ride on rails and/or pivot pins.
- Hub / sleeve (sliding collar): fits over a splined section of the output/main shaft; it clamps dog teeth to lock a gear to the shaft when moved by the fork.
- Dog teeth / gear dogs: gear and hub engagement points; wear here indicates fork/misalignment issues.
- Synchronizer rings: friction rings that match speeds before dog engagement.
- Detents & springs: indexing system that holds forks in selected positions.
- Shift case halves (gearbox housing): split to access internals; contains bearings/seals.
- Bearings / thrust washers / snap rings / spacers: support shafts and keep correct endplay/backlash.

Tools, consumables, and parts you need
- Tools: full metric/SAE socket set, torque wrench, breaker bar, impact gun (optional), snap-ring pliers, soft mallet, punches, drift set, pry bars, bearing puller, hydraulic press (for bushings if required), seal drivers, dial indicator (for backlash), feeler gauges, hoist/engine crane, jack stands, transmission jack.
- Consumables/parts: replacement shift fork(s), bushings/pins, hub/sleeve if damaged, synchronizer rings if worn, seals and gaskets, bearings if questionable, correct grade transmission oil, RTV or case gasket, new fasteners where required, threadlocker as specified.
- Documentation: Hino 700 workshop manual for torque specs, assembly diagrams, and tolerances (must be used).

High-level safety & prep (don’t skip)
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, disconnect battery, wear eye/hand protection.
- Use rated hoist and transmission jack; gearbox is heavy—never rely on a jack alone.
- Drain transmission oil before separating lines/covers to avoid spills.
- Label all linkages, cables, and electrical connectors; take photos for reassembly.
- Work clean: dust/metal chips will ruin synchronizers and bearings.

Step-by-step procedure (logical sequence — follow OEM manual for specific fastener sequences and torques)
A. Remove transmission from vehicle (overview)
1. Put transmission in neutral, support vehicle safely, chock wheels.
2. Disconnect battery.
3. Disconnect and label shift linkage, speedometer cable/sensor, electrical connectors, breather, PTO lines and any cooler lines.
4. Remove prop shaft/driveshaft from output flange and secure to avoid damage.
5. Support gearbox with a transmission jack and remove mount bolts, crossmembers, and bellhousing-to-engine bolts. If clutch removal is needed, support clutch assembly.
6. Carefully lower gearbox; keep it vertical/stable.

B. Split gearbox on bench
1. Drain remaining oil and clean exterior.
2. Remove tailshaft/tail housing and any covers to access selector rails.
3. Remove cover plates and unbolt case halves following the manual’s sequence to avoid distortion.
4. Carefully separate case halves with a soft mallet/puller; keep track of dowels and bearings.
5. Photograph the arrangement before pulling shafts.

C. Access and remove shift forks
1. Remove shift rails retaining pins/snap rings; slide rails out of bore.
2. Slide forks off rails. Note orientation: many gearboxes have left/center/right forks and specific faces (mark them).
3. Inspect forks: fork tip face, wear grooves, burrs, cracks, bending, and bushings.
4. Inspect hub/sleeve dogs and synchronizer rings for chipping or unusual wear. Replace if necessary.

D. Replace components
1. Replace bushings/pins where forks ride on rails. Press new bushings using correct driver to avoid damaging bore.
2. Replace fork(s) by matching OEM part number and orientation. Verify tip thickness and geometry.
3. Replace worn hub/sleeves or synchronizers while exposed — you likely should replace rings or hubs if they show dog wear or hard spots.
4. Clean all components with solvent and air dry; do not contaminate friction surfaces with oil until assembly requires.

E. Reassembly
1. Refit forks onto rails in their original orientation. Ensure bushings are correctly seated and rails slide freely but without excessive play.
2. Reinstall hub/sleeves and synchronizers, making sure dog engagement faces line up; follow any shim or spacer order in manual.
3. Reinstall detents/springs; verify index positions and operation—rails should have positive detent clicks, no binding.
4. Refit case halves with clean gasket surfaces and new sealant/gaskets as specified; tighten bolts to OEM sequence and torque.
5. Reinstall tail housing and external covers. Install new seals where removed.
6. Bench test: with input shaft driven slowly (or rotate main shaft by hand where safe), shift through gears and confirm smooth engagement and detent positions. Do not run gearbox unloaded at high speed.

F. Refit transmission into vehicle
1. Lift and align gearbox, secure bellhousing bolts to engine, torque to specs.
2. Reconnect driveshaft, linkages, sensors, breather, cooler lines, and electrical connectors. Refit crossmember and mounts.
3. Refill gearbox with recommended Hino spec oil to correct level. Prime if required.
4. Reconnect battery.

Final adjustments & tests
- Adjust external linkage free-play and neutral position to OEM specs.
- With engine off, shift through gears to ensure smooth selection.
- Start engine, test shift with clutch in neutral and under light load; check for leaks.
- Road test gently: check for pop-out, grinding, or abnormal noises. Re-check oil level after test and top off.
- After initial hours of use, re-torque accessible fasteners and recheck for leaks and proper operation.

What can go wrong — during repair and if done wrong
- During repair:
- Dropping or mishandling the gearbox can bend rails or crack housings.
- Mixing forks or installing them reversed causes mis-engagement and damaged dogs or synchronizers.
- Contaminating synchronizers with grease/solvent can reduce friction and cause shift problems.
- Using incorrect bushings or reusing badly worn pins lets forks walk and rewear quickly.
- Cross-threading or under/over-torquing case bolts causes leaks or warped case halves.
- After repair (if mistakes made):
- Gear grinding and chipped dogs from misaligned forks.
- Gear pop-out if forks don’t hold hubs fully engaged.
- Premature synchronizer, hub, and dog wear from partial engagement.
- Internal oil leaks or bearing failure if seals/gaskets not fitted properly.
- Vibration/noise if shafts or bearings were disturbed and not rechecked for endplay/backlash.
- Preventive recommendations: always replace worn mating parts (hubs, synchronizers, pins/bushings) rather than only the fork; use OEM parts; follow torque/sequencing in the Hino manual; maintain oil cleanliness.

Inspection criteria (what to replace, general guidance)
- Fork tip: visible groove, rounded edge, crack or bent shape → replace.
- Fork bushing wear or oval bore → replace bushings and possibly rails.
- Hub/sleeve: cracked or nibbled dog teeth, heavy wear on engagement faces → replace.
- Synchronizer rings: heat discoloration, uneven wear, missing friction material → replace.
- Rails: scoring/deformation or bent rail → replace.

Quick troubleshooting after replacement
- If grinding only into 2nd/3rd: inspect the fork and hub for that specific gear, check bushing play and detent index.
- If gear pops out under load: suspect fork tip wear, worn hub dogs, or incorrect reassembly leaving insufficient travel.
- If entire gearbox is noisy: check bearing clearances, end float and backlash with a dial indicator.

Final note
- This repair is medium-to-high difficulty: generally requires removing the gearbox, splitting the case, special tools, and critical measurements. Use the Hino 700 series workshop manual for exact torque values, shim/endplay/backlash tolerances, and the OEM part numbers. If you lack the tools or confidence to handle heavy lifting, press-fit bushings, or precision checks, get the gearbox to a qualified transmission shop.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

How To Do Daily Inspections - Hino 700 Series Do you need help with the daily inspection of your Hino 700 Series truck? Watch this Prestige Hino video to how to do a Hino 700 ...

Hino 700 Open Pipe Sound

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