- Safety first (must-read)
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock wheels front and back.
- Wear safety glasses, mechanic gloves, and steel-toe boots.
- If you’re unsure at any point, stop and get a qualified technician — heavy vehicles are dangerous.
- If you disconnect any electrical connectors or remove battery terminals for safety, lockout/tagout the battery per local practice.

- What this job is and when replacement is required
- The shift cable links the cab shifter to the transmission shift arm. Symptoms of a bad cable: hard-to-select gears, vague/loose shifter feel, slipping out of gear, visible fraying or corrosion, cable that binds or is broken.
- Replacement required when cable is frayed, kinked, extensively corroded, stretched beyond adjustment, or the inner wire is seized and will not move smoothly.
- When replacing the cable you should also inspect and typically replace worn bushings, retaining clips, grommets, and sometimes the shifter lever clip or transmission lever pin if they are visibly worn.

- Parts you might need (exact Hino part numbers will vary; check Hino parts manual)
- Shift cable assembly (complete cable specific to Hino 700 Series transmission and year)
- Firewall grommet or bracket grommet (prevents chafing)
- Cable end bushings or sleeves
- Retaining clips / split pins / circlips / locking tabs used at both ends
- Cable clamps / mounting brackets if rusted or broken
- Grease or lubricant specifically for cables (lubricant recommended by Hino, or light lithium grease / cable lube)
- Optional: replacement shift lever pin or transmission arm pin if worn
- Why: worn bushings and clips cause play and premature wear; replacing them with the cable ensures correct alignment and prevents rubbing.

- Tools you need (basic tools described and how to use them)
- Safety gear: safety glasses, gloves, wheel chocks
- Use to protect eyes/hands and to block the truck from rolling while you work.
- Ratchet and socket set (10–24 mm common sizes; deep sockets helpful)
- Use to remove bolts that hold cable brackets, transmission linkage, and any panels. Select the socket that fits snugly on the fastener to avoid rounding.
- Combination wrenches (open-end and boxed; common metric sizes)
- Use for nuts/bolts in tight spaces where a socket won’t fit. Place the box end fully on the nut and pull toward the open side rather than prying.
- Adjustable wrench (crescent wrench)
- Use for odd-size nuts in a pinch. Grip firmly and apply slow steady force to avoid slipping.
- Needle-nose pliers and slip-joint pliers
- Use needle-nose to remove/install retaining clips and pins; slip-joint for bending or gripping larger pieces.
- Circlip/snap-ring pliers (if the cable end uses a circlip)
- Use to safely spread or compress circlips. Insert tips into circlip holes and squeeze/expand as required.
- Flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers
- Use for prying clips, removing trim screws, and as gentle levers. Use appropriately sized tips to avoid damaging screws.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB B’laster, WD-40 Specialist) and a rag
- Use to loosen rusty bolts, fittings, and seized cable ends. Spray, let soak 5–15 minutes, then attempt removal.
- Pry bar or trim pry tools
- Use to remove interior panels, boot retainers, or to lever cable ends free gently without damaging parts.
- Torque wrench (capable of relevant torque range for the truck bolts)
- Use to tighten bolts to the manufacturer’s torque specs on reassembly to prevent over/under-tightening; set to specified value and tighten in one smooth motion.
- Flashlight or work light
- Use to see under the cab and along the cable route.
- Jack stands or vehicle support stands (if you need to access under the truck)
- Use only rated stands on flat ground. Never rely on a jack alone; stands hold the vehicle safely while you work underneath.
- Hacksaw or cable cutter (only if the old cable is damaged and must be cut out)
- Use to cut through a cable only if removal requires it. If cutting, protect surrounding components and remove all metal fragments.
- Multimeter (optional, only if testing electrical connectors related to interlocks)
- Use if you need to confirm neutral safety switches or interlock wiring were disturbed.
- Grease gun or small tube of lithium/graphite grease for cable ends
- Use to lubricate the new cable where it contacts bushings and lever pivot points.
- Zip ties and anti-chafe sleeves
- Use to secure cable along routing and protect against rubbing.

- Extra tools you may need and why
- Impact wrench (air or electric)
- Speeds removal of stubborn bolts, but use with care to avoid over-torquing. If you don’t have one, extended breaker bar can substitute.
- Jack and heavier capacity stands or a pit
- If the cable route or transmission attachment is under the truck and not reachable from the cab, you will need to raise the vehicle safely.
- Service manual / factory torque spec sheet for Hino 700 Series
- Required to know exact torque values and any special procedures (shift cable adjustment specs, linkage pin orientation). If you don’t have one, get a printed manual or download from Hino.
- Transmission alignment tool (rare)
- Some transmissions require linkage alignment tools—check the service manual.

- Step-by-step procedure (basic, beginner-friendly; read all bullets before starting)
- Prepare vehicle and workspace
- Park level, chock wheels, disconnect battery if you will be working near electrical connectors or to prevent accidental engine start.
- Put on PPE and position lighting.
- Gain access to shifter cable ends
- Remove shifter console/cover or shift boot in the cab to expose the top cable end and shifter linkage.
- Under the cab or along the firewall, locate the cable grommet and any bracket fasteners.
- Under the vehicle, follow the cable to the transmission and identify the transmission end and any mounting clamps.
- Free the cable at the cab end
- Apply penetrating oil to any rusty fasteners and let soak.
- Remove retaining clip or split pin at the shifter end using needle-nose pliers or circlip pliers.
- Slide the cable end off the shifter lever. Note orientation of end fittings — take photos for re-assembly.
- Remove any mounting bracket bolts/clamps holding the cable near the firewall or under the dash.
- Free the cable at the transmission end
- Locate the transmission shift arm connection. Remove the retaining clip/pin connecting the cable to the shift arm.
- Remove any bracket bolts and grommets along the cable route. Keep track of clamp locations and hardware.
- If cable is corroded, use penetrating oil and let sit; use pliers or pry bar to remove stubborn clamps.
- Remove the old cable
- With both ends disconnected and brackets removed, pull the cable out from the transmission end or through the firewall grommet.
- Inspect grommet and mounting holes for damage; replace a torn grommet to prevent chafing.
- Prepare the new cable
- Compare new cable to old one to confirm correct length, end fittings and routing.
- Lubricate the new cable’s inner wire and ends with recommended cable lube or light grease so it moves freely.
- Replace any worn bushings/grommets with new parts.
- Install the new cable
- Route the new cable following the original path. Route it the same way to prevent binding and rubbing.
- Feed cable through firewall grommet, secure into mounting brackets loosely so you can adjust later.
- Connect the transmission end first: insert pivot end into the shift arm and secure with the new retaining pin/clip. Ensure orientation matches original.
- Connect the cab end to the shifter lever and secure with the proper clip or pin.
- Secure and adjust
- Tighten mounting clamps and brackets to hold cable in place, but leave small adjustment room if needed.
- With vehicle in neutral and engine off, move the shifter through the gate and verify linkages engage smoothly. Ensure no binding at full throw.
- Adjust cable freeplay per Hino spec: typically there will be an adjustment nut or bracket that sets proper neutral position and removes slack. Turn adjustment until shifter aligns with transmission selector positions precisely. If you don’t have the spec, adjust until gears select cleanly and there’s a small amount of freeplay as original; don’t overtighten to bind the cable.
- Tighten all bracket bolts to factory torque. If you lack the spec, tighten snugly and confirm after a short test drive, then recheck bolts.
- Test operation
- Reconnect battery if disconnected.
- With the engine off, cycle through gears to ensure gear engagement feels correct.
- Start engine and, with parking brake engaged and wheels chocked, test shifting under load (or take a short low-speed test drive) to confirm shifting accuracy.
- Recheck bolts, clips, and cable routing after the test drive and re-torque if necessary.
- Clean up and final checks
- Secure any loose cable end with zip ties, trim excess tie material.
- Dispose of old cable per local disposal rules.

- Common beginner mistakes and how to avoid them
- Not supporting the vehicle properly — always use proper chocks and stands; never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- Forgetting to replace bushings/grommets — this leads to premature wear and chafing. Replace them along with the cable.
- Reinstalling with the wrong routing — leads to binding. Copy the old route and use same clamp positions.
- Over-tightening or under-tightening brackets — use torque wrench and service manual values where possible.
- Not lubricating the new cable — will make the new cable bind and fail prematurely.

- Notes on factory specs and when to get professional help
- Exact torque values, adjustment measurements, and any transmission-specific procedures for the Hino 700 Series should come from the Hino service manual. If you don’t have the manual, obtain it — it prevents mistakes.
- If the transmission shift arm or shifter linkage is damaged, or if the transmission requires special alignment tools, consult a specialist.
- If you’re uncomfortable performing any step (lifting the truck, disconnecting heavy components, aligning linkage), have a trained heavy-truck mechanic do the job.

- Quick checklist before you start
- New cable + grommets + clips on hand
- Socket/wrench set, pliers, screwdrivers, penetrating oil, torque wrench
- Safety gear, chocks, stands, flash light
- Service manual or torque/adjustment specs available

No questions. If you want I can list likely part numbers or a short shopping list for common Hino 700 shift-cable components (tell me model year and gearbox) — otherwise the items above are what you need.
rteeqp73

How To Do A Fluid Check - Hino 700 series Ever wondered how to correctly complete a fluid check on your Hino 700 Series truck? Let the team at Prestige Hino show you the ...

HINO 700 E13C LOW POWER

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