Overview — why this repair is done (plain language)
- The torque converter is the automatic-transmission equivalent of a clutch. It transmits and multiplies engine torque to the transmission using fluid. When it fails you will typically see slipping, overheating, shuddering during cruise or lock‑up, contaminated/burnt ATF, metal in the ATF pan, or a transmission that won’t engage properly. Replacing the torque converter fixes internal clutch or hydraulic failures inside the converter or replaces a converter contaminated by transmission failure.

How the torque converter and related system work (analogy + core theory)
- Analogy: imagine a watermill and a paddle wheel linked by water flow. The engine spins a pump (impeller) that throws transmission fluid against a turbine. The fluid transfers rotational force from the impeller to the turbine without a rigid mechanical connection. A stator redirects returning fluid to multiply torque at low speeds (like redirecting water onto the wheel for extra push). At higher speeds a lock‑up clutch inside the converter mechanically connects engine and transmission to eliminate slip and improve efficiency (like locking the watermill shaft to the engine shaft).
- Core parts and function:
- Pump / impeller (front cover): bolted to the engine flexplate; it throws ATF outward due to rotation, creating flow.
- Turbine: receives the fluid flow and transmits torque to the transmission input shaft via splines/hub.
- Stator: sits between pump and turbine, mounted on a one‑way clutch. At low speeds it redirects fluid to increase torque (torque multiplication). At high speeds it freewheels to reduce drag.
- Lock‑up clutch: a friction clutch inside the converter that engages at cruising speeds to eliminate slippage and improve fuel economy.
- Shell / housing: the outer metal body that contains the fluid and vanes.
- Hub / hub splines and pilot: the turbine hub slides onto the transmission input shaft splines. The torque converter is supported and centered by the input shaft and (on some engines) a pilot bushing in the crank.
- Front pump drive and seal interface: the converter engages the transmission pump; a front pump seal prevents ATF leakage into the bellhousing/crank area.
- What can go wrong:
- Stator one‑way clutch failure → no torque multiplication / poor acceleration.
- Lock‑up clutch burned or sticking → shuddering, vibration at cruise.
- Worn clutch surfaces or broken internal components → slipping, high stall speed, overheating.
- Pump or turbine damage, bearing failure → noise, metal debris.
- Seal leaks between converter and transmission/pump → ATF loss and contamination.
- Torque converter contaminated with metal from internal transmission failure → immediate converter damage and transmission damage.

Parts and tools you will need (minimum)
- Parts:
- Correct replacement torque converter for your Hiace model and transmission.
- Transmission fluid (type and qty per factory manual).
- Transmission filter (if serviceable) and pan gasket or paper seal.
- New torque‑converter-to-flexplate bolts (recommended) and any lock washers; possibly new flexplate bolts.
- New front pump seal if recommended for your job or if leaking.
- Optional: new rear main crank seal if you separate components and it's worn.
- Tools and equipment:
- Factory service manual (essential for torque specs, fluid amounts, procedures).
- Vehicle lift or heavy-duty jack and sturdy jack stands; transmission jack or floor jack with adapter and wood block.
- Engine support bar or a second jack to support the engine.
- Socket and ratchet set, torque wrench, breaker bar.
- Pry bars, alignment tools, long extensions, swivel sockets.
- Drain pan, funnel, clean rags, cleaning solvent.
- Punch/driver for stud removal, thread locker (as specified), seal driver.
- Safety gear: eye protection, gloves.
- Safety and prep:
- Work on a level surface, use jack stands (never rely on a jack alone).
- Disconnect the battery negative.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. ATF is slippery — wipe spills immediately.
- Have a plan for used fluid disposal per local regulations.

Diagnosis checklist (why you are replacing it)
- Symptoms suggesting torque converter failure:
- Shudder or vibration at steady speeds (often 30–60 mph) that disappears when lock‑up is off.
- Slippage when accelerating; delayed engagement or high stall (engine rpm rise without corresponding vehicle acceleration).
- Transmission slipping and burnt smell from ATF.
- Metal flakes or heavy debris in ATF pan or on magnet.
- Transmission overheating codes, lock‑up solenoid issues combined with symptoms above.
- Quick tests:
- Inspect ATF color and smell: dark/burnt indicates overheated clutch material.
- Check ATF pan for metal/particles.
- Stall test (brief, controlled): if stall speed is abnormally high it can indicate torque converter clutch or internal issues. Do not overrev engine or hold stall long.

Step‑by‑step: torque converter replacement (general RWD Hiace procedure)
Note: variations exist by model/year and transmission model. Always follow the factory manual for bolt torques, fluid amounts and exact sequences.

1) Prepare vehicle and workspace
- Park on flat surface, chock wheels, disconnect battery negative.
- Raise vehicle on a lift or use jack and jack stands to get comfortable height. Support engine with an engine support bar or use a jack and block under oil pan transmission side—engine must not drop when the transmission is removed.

2) Drain ATF and remove components for access
- Drain transmission fluid from drain plug or pan into pan. Expect the torque converter still contains fluid and additional fluid will drain when you separate transmission.
- Remove driveshaft / prop shaft (mark orientation for reassembly).
- Remove exhaust crosspipe or any heat shields interfering with bellhousing access.
- Remove starter motor.
- Disconnect transmission cooler lines (plug/plug the lines to avoid contamination and fluid loss) — be ready for fluid spillage.
- Remove shift linkage, park/neutral safety switch and any electrical connectors on the transmission.
- Remove speedometer cable or sensor as needed.
- Remove any bellhousing braces, motor mount supports or crossmembers that block removal.
- Support the transmission with a transmission jack or floor jack with a block of wood.

3) Separate transmission from engine
- Remove transmission mount bolts and crossmember.
- Loosen and remove bellhousing bolts in a star pattern, leaving a couple of top bolts partially threaded initially.
- Carefully slide the transmission rearward on the jack. The torque converter is bolted to the flexplate — at first the transmission will not pull all the way off because the converter is retained by those bolts. Pull back carefully until the converter is disengaged from the pump; support heavy load and watch for wiring/hoses.

4) Remove torque converter from transmission / check mating surfaces
- With transmission positioned back a bit, rotate the converter if necessary to access the converter bolts through holes in flexplate. Remove the torque‑converter-to-flexplate bolts (turn the engine with a breaker bar at the crank if you need to index bolt holes).
- Once bolts are removed, carefully slide the transmission further back and down on the jack so the converter clears the flexplate and slides off the transmission input shaft. Keep the converter level to avoid dropping ATF and to protect the pump seal.
- Inspect the flexplate and crank pilot: check for cracks, hot spots, or excessive runout. Inspect starter ring gear condition.
- Inspect the transmission front pump, input shaft splines, seal area for scoring/damage.
- Inspect torque converter surface: look for contamination, debris, and metal flakes.

5) Install new torque converter (critical steps)
- Pre‑fill the new torque converter with ATF per factory instruction (many manuals require pre‑filling to a specified volume before mounting). If manual gives a volume, pour that amount through the fill hole until fluid appears near the top. Typical prefill ranges vary by vehicle — confirm for your Hiace.
- Coat the transmission input shaft splines with fresh ATF.
- Slide the new torque converter onto the transmission input shaft. You'll feel/see it engage in stages:
- First contact: splines engage partly.
- Second contact: converter hub seats into the pump/front cover.
- Final seating: converter inner hub fully engages and pushes into the transmission so the mounting pad reaches near the bellhousing face.
- Check seating: a correctly seated converter should be recessed into the bellhousing area so that when you mate the transmission to the engine the converter cannot fall out. There should be room for the converter bolt holes to align with the flexplate holes once transmission is mated.
- Important: if the converter is not fully seated, you risk bending the pump/stator or damaging front seal. Rotate and press slightly until it snaps into place; you should feel three distinct engagements.

6) Mate transmission to engine
- With converter fully seated and transmission supported on the jack, align the transmission input shaft with the engine pilot and gently push the transmission forward until the bellhousing flange mates to the engine block.
- Start bellhousing bolts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement.
- Torque bellhousing bolts to factory specs in the proper sequence.
- Before final torquing of bellhousing bolts, you must bolt the torque converter to the flexplate:
- Rotate the engine to align converter bolt holes with flexplate. Use the new bolts and thread them in finger-tight, then tighten to factory torque in a criss‑cross pattern. Use thread locker if specified.
- Once the converter bolts are torqued, fully torque the bellhousing bolts to spec.

7) Reinstall removed components
- Reinstall transmission mount(s), crossmember, driveshaft, starter, exhaust pieces, speedometer sensor, cooler lines (replace any O‑rings if required), linkages and electrical connectors.
- Replace transmission filter and pan gasket if you removed the pan. Clean magnetic drain magnet of metallic debris; presence of heavy metal suggests internal transmission damage—address that before finishing.
- Refill transmission fluid. Add ATF to the transmission fill plug until level reaches specification; check with dipstick or fill plug method per manual. The torque converter prefill plus refill will determine final level—start with recommended volume then check level at idle and correct fluid temperature per manual.

8) Final checks and test
- Reconnect battery.
- Start engine and check for leaks (cooler lines, front seal, pan gasket).
- With parking brake on, cycle the shifter through gears; check for proper engagement and absence of harshness.
- With engine at operating temperature, check fluid level per manual procedure (park, neutral, temp range, engine idle). Add as needed.
- Road test: monitor for shudder, slipping, noises, leaks. Gradually bring up to highway speed and monitor lock‑up behavior. If symptoms persist, diagnostic codes or pressure tests may be required.

Inspection points and troubleshooting during replacement
- If ATF contains significant metal: stop and investigate internal transmission failure before installing new converter.
- If front pump seal is scored or leaking: replace it.
- If input shaft splines or converter hub are damaged or worn: replace offending parts.
- If converter won’t fully seat on the transmission: check for burrs, foreign material, or misalignment of pump; do not force it.
- If after install there is popping, grinding, or noise upon start/drive: check converter bolts, flexplate condition, and input shaft alignment.

Practical tips and best practices
- Use a transmission jack; transmissions are heavy and awkward. Never let it tilt uncontrolled.
- Always pre‑fill converter as specified to avoid starving the pump at initial start.
- Replace filter and pan gasket whenever the converter and transmission are separated.
- Use new converter-to-flexplate bolts (they stretch and should not be reused).
- Keep everything extremely clean—dirty fluid and particles destroy clutches quickly.
- Follow torques and procedures in the factory manual exactly; torque values differ by model.

When to call a professional
- If you find heavy metal in the pan, catastrophic internal transmission damage, or are not confident aligning and seating the converter or equalizing engine support. Torque converter replacement is a heavy, precision job—if any doubt exist, have a shop perform or verify the work.

Quick recap checklist (do not skip)
- Battery disconnected, engine supported, transmission supported.
- Drain ATF, remove driveshaft, starter, cooler lines, electrical and linkages.
- Remove bellhousing bolts and separate transmission.
- Remove old converter and inspect flexplate, input splines, pump, seals.
- Pre‑fill new converter, seat onto transmission fully.
- Mate transmission, torque converter bolts installed and torqued, final bellhousing torque.
- Replace filter and pan gasket, refill fluid to spec, warm up and recheck level, road test.

Final note
- This is a general, detailed guide. Vehicle-specific steps, torque values, and fluid volumes vary by Hiace year and transmission model; use the Toyota factory service manual for exact specifications. Following the manual and cleanliness protocols avoids permanent damage.
rteeqp73

Service My Car - Toyota HiAce (H200) In this episode of Service My Car we work on Toyota's premiere Van, the HiAce H200 (2006-2019). To see our full range of H200 ...

Hiace Full Exhaust Borla

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