Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: metric sockets, extensions, ring/box wrenches, breaker bar, torque wrench.
- Engine support/hoist or head stand.
- Shop press (2–20 ton) or hydraulic press.
- Valve guide driver/installer set with interchangeable sleeves/pilots sized to the guide OD and valve stem OD.
- Valve guide removal punches (bronze/soft metal) and drivers.
- Induction heater, oven, or controlled heat source (recommended) for head heating.
- Valve spring compressor (bench type for individual valves).
- Valve guide reamers or adjustable hone with pilots sized to valve stems.
- Micrometer, Vernier caliper, dial indicator.
- Soft-faced hammer, brass drift punches, small round files, wire brushes.
- Cleaning solvents, shop rags, compressed air.
- New valve guides (OEM or equivalent), valve stem seals, head gasket, head bolts (if torque-to-yield), valve keepers, springs/retainers if worn.
- Assembly lube, anti-seize, engine oil.
- Safety: safety glasses, heat-resistant gloves, ear protection.

Safety precautions
- Disconnect battery. Drain coolant and oil. Work in well-ventilated area.
- Use proper lifting/hoisting gear for the head; the cylinder head is heavy and awkward.
- When heating the head, use an induction heater or oven where possible. Avoid open flames directly on the head—localized overheating can crack aluminum and ruin temper.
- Secure the head on a stable bench before pressing or hammering. Keep hands clear of press tooling.
- Wear eye protection when using press, hammer, or compressed air.
- Dispose of fluids and contaminated rags properly.

High-level flow (what you will do)
1) Remove the cylinder head off the engine and transfer to a clean bench. 2) Remove valves, springs, seals and retainers; mark valves to their original locations. 3) Remove old guides using controlled heating and a press/driver. 4) Clean and inspect head bores and seats. 5) Install new guides to proper depth with a guide driver and press. 6) Ream/hone guides to final tolerance with pilot; measure valve-to-guide clearance. 7) Install new valve stem seals, reassemble valves and springs, check seat contact, lap if required. 8) Refit head, torque per Hino specs, set valve clearance/timing, test.

Step-by-step detailed procedure

A — Engine/head removal (brief)
1. Disconnect battery, drain coolant and oil. Tag and remove all intake, exhaust, fuel lines, coolant hoses, electrical connectors, injectors as required to free the head. Remove rocker cover(s) and valve train components that attach to the head.
2. Mark timing/cam position or lock timing components per the shop manual so reassembly timing is correct.
3. Remove head bolts in the reverse of the tightening sequence to avoid distortion. Lift head with a hoist. Place on a padded sturdy bench or head stand.

B — Strip valves and preparation
1. With the head secured, rotate each valve to the position where you can compress the spring. Use a valve spring compressor to compress spring, remove retainer and keepers, then release and remove spring and valve.
2. Tag each valve and place it in the matching bore (mark intake/exhaust and cylinder). Maintain original orientation (important for seat fit).
3. Remove valve stem seals. Inspect valve stems, seats, and springs. Replace valves or springs if excessively worn, pitted, bent, or if spring pressures are out of spec.

C — Removing old valve guides
1. Clean the area around guides to remove carbon so heat and tooling seat evenly.
2. Heat the head evenly around the guide area. Best practice: induction heater or oven to bring head temperature to a controlled level (typically around 150–200 °C for cast iron/aluminum heads; check material limits). Avoid overheating. Heating expands the head and reduces interference fit making guide removal easier.
3. Support the head so the guide to be removed aligns with the press ram. Use a support that contacts the head surface around the guide bore to avoid flexing.
4. Choose a removal driver (backing punch) that bears on the guide, not on the valve seat or head. If using a punch, use bronze/soft drift matched to the guide OD so you don’t mushroom the guide.
5. Using the press, push the guide out in the direction recommended by manufacturer (commonly from the combustion side toward the valve cover side, but check guide geometry). Press slowly, keeping driver centered; do not cock the guide as it exits.
6. If guide is stubborn, heat more evenly, tapping gently to start, but avoid air-hammering as it can crack the head.

D — Cleaning and inspecting head bores and seats
1. After removing guides, thoroughly clean bores with solvent and a brush. Remove any soft metal debris.
2. Inspect guide bores for cracking, ovality, or damage. Check valve seats for pitting and for concentricity to guide bores. If seats are badly damaged, cutting or replacing valve seats may be required.
3. Check head flatness and cam/seat surfaces per Hino specs. Resurface the head if out-of-flat beyond spec.

E — Installing new valve guides
1. Clean new guides and lightly oil. Confirm new guide OD and length vs old guide and OEM specifications.
2. Pre-heat the head as before (controlled). Cold guides can be lightly chilled (ice or freezer) to increase interference differential if desired.
3. Use the correct installation driver (driver matches OD of guide and bears on flange if present). Support the head so the guide is driven straight and square. If guide has a specified installed depth, use a depth gauge or a driver with a shoulder to stop at correct depth. Typical practice: install from the valve cover side toward combustion chamber unless OEM specifies otherwise.
4. Press the guide in slowly using a press. Stop at the specified depth. Verify installed depth against the bench measurement and OEM dimension.
5. Allow the head to cool slowly. Clean any oil/contaminant from the bore.

F — Reaming / honing to final clearance
1. Select a pilot reamer or hone sized for the valve stem. Install a pilot that fits the new guide bore.
2. Using a hand reamer or rotary hone driven at low speed, run the tool through the guide to remove machining marks and open to final size. Use plenty of cutting fluid or oil.
3. Ream/hone slowly and check clearance frequently. Measure valve stem diameter at several points and measure guide bore to calculate clearance. Typical acceptable valve stem-to-guide clearance for many engines is around 0.02–0.08 mm (0.0008–0.003 in) depending on application—use Hino specs. Aim for uniform clearance across length. Excessive clearance will cause oil consumption and valve wobble; too tight will bind when hot.
4. Deburr, clean thoroughly, and blow out all chips with compressed air.

G — Reassembly of valves, seals and springs
1. Install new valve stem seals. Use the correct type and install squarely; some seals require installation tool to compress them on fully.
2. Lubricate valve stems with clean engine oil or assembly lube, insert valve through guide from combustion side.
3. Install spring, retainer, compress and install keepers. Verify each keeper seats fully.
4. Check spring free height and, if possible, measure installed height and spring pressure. Replace springs if out of spec.
5. Check valve seating: rotate valve and verify contact on seat; perform a light lap if necessary to ensure sealing. If heavy seat cutting is required, use seat cutters and follow OEM procedures.

H — Head refit and final checks
1. Replace head bolts if required (TORX/to-yield style are single-use). Clean bolt holes and threads.
2. Install new head gasket. Lower head to block, start head bolts by hand and torque in the specified sequence and to the specified values/angles. Follow Hino torque tightening sequence and steps.
3. Reassemble timing components, rocker arms, pushrods (if applicable), intake/exhaust manifolds, injectors, and the rest of the engine per reverse of removal. Refill coolant and oil.
4. Set valve lash or hydraulic lifter preload and timing per factory spec. Run engine and check for oil or coolant leaks, unusual valve noise, or smoking.
5. After initial heat cycles, re-check head bolt torque/angle if the procedure calls for it and re-check valve lash if mechanical.

How the specific tools are used (practical notes)
- Shop press + driver: Center driver on guide and press at slow steady rate. Use a support under the head that spreads load; avoid point loading. Drivers should be specific to the guide OD; using a wrong size can mushroom or crack the guide.
- Induction heater/oven: Heat evenly; avoid local overheats. For aluminum heads, excessive heat warps or softens. Use infrared thermometer to monitor temperature.
- Valve guide reamer/hone: Use a pilot that matches valve stem to keep tool concentric with guide. Rotate at low speed, use light pressure, and remove small amounts. Check clearance often—reaming is irreversible.
- Valve spring compressor: Use the bench compressor on the head with the spring centered; remove keepers carefully with magnetic pickup or cloth to drop them into the collector—do not let keepers fall into ports.
- Micrometer/calipers: Measure stem and bore at multiple points; record values.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Using excessive heat or open flame: can warp or crack head. Use controlled heating.
- Driving guides out/in crooked: support head properly and use correct drivers/pilots to avoid cocking and damaging the seat or bore.
- Over-reaming: Ream in small increments, measure often. If clearance too large, guide replacement required.
- Reusing old valve stem seals: causes oil consumption. Always fit new seals.
- Not checking head flatness or seats: re-installing a warped head causes poor sealing and leaks. Resurface if out of spec.
- Installing guides to wrong depth: check and measure installed depth to ensure proper valve-to-seat relationships.
- Using air hammer or heavy impact tools: can crack or fracture head material.
- Not replacing head bolts when required: torque-to-yield bolts should be replaced.
- Mixing intake/exhaust valves or not keeping valves in original positions: this can result in poor sealing. Tag and return valves to original bores if reusing.
- Failing to verify valve spring pressures and installed heights: can cause valve float or interference.

Replacement parts typically required
- Valve guides (one per valve as required)
- Valve stem seals (always)
- Head gasket (always)
- Head bolts (if torque-to-yield or per OEM recommendation)
- Valve keepers, retainers, springs (if wear/age shows)
- Valves or valve seats (if damaged)
- Misc: new intake/exhaust gaskets, coolant, oil, assembly lube

Final notes
- Follow Hino Dutro WU/XZU series workshop manual for exact dimensions, interference fits, guide installed depths, valve stem clearance and torque sequences/values. Workshop manuals specify engine-specific clearances and temperatures—use them.
- Take measurements and record values at each step. Conservative, measured machining/re-sizing keeps the head serviceable and reliable.

No extra commentary.
rteeqp73

Hino Dutro 2022 | 300 series |Turbo intercooler price & Specifications Hino Dutro 2022 | 300 series |Turbo intercooler price & Specifications #hino #commercialtruck #hinodutro.

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