Tools & consumables needed
- Basic hand tools: metric socket/ratchet set, deep sockets, combination wrenches, extension bars.
- Torque wrench (suitable range for transmission fasteners).
- Snap‑ring/circlip pliers (internal & external).
- Bearing pullers / gear puller.
- Hydraulic or arbor press (1–5 t).
- Bench vise with soft jaws or shaft clamps.
- Soft‑faced mallet and brass/nylon drift punches.
- Drift set and centre punch.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for endplay/backlash checks).
- Feeler gauges and thickness gauges.
- Micrometer and vernier caliper (measure gears, cones, shafts).
- Telescoping gauge / bore gauge (if checking bushings).
- Clean solvent (degreaser), lint‑free rags, parts tray.
- Gearbox assembly lube and final fill gear oil (manufacturer spec).
- New gaskets, seals, O‑rings, and lubricants.
- Replacement synchronizer parts: synchro rings (baulk/cone), hub(s), sleeve(s), keys/woodruff keys, springs, shift keys, snap rings, thrust washers, bearings if worn.
- Threadlocker, anti‑seize (as specified).
- Personal protective equipment: safety glasses, nitrile gloves, steel‑toe boots.

Safety precautions (mandatory)
- Work on a flat level surface. Chock wheels and engage park/handbrake.
- Disconnect battery and tag ignition disabled.
- Support the vehicle securely on jack stands or a lift. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Drain transmission fluid into a suitable container and dispose of properly.
- Use eye protection and gloves; parts and solvents are hazardous.
- Keep work area clean and organized to avoid parts mix‑ups.
- Use correct lifting points for the transmission and a transmission jack or hoist.
- When using a press, support parts correctly and shield hands from pinch points.

Overview of the job
- Diagnosis → remove transmission (or remove transmission from truck and place on bench) → disassemble to access synchronizer assembly → inspect & measure parts → replace worn components → reassemble, set clearances/backlash/endplay → reinstall transmission, fill with correct oil → road test and final check.

Step‑by‑step procedure

1) Preliminary diagnosis and preparation
- Confirm grinding/slipping symptoms relate to synchronizer (hard shifts, pop out of gear, gear clash under upshift/downshift).
- Note which gear(s) are affected — record shift lever positions and symptoms.
- Gather replacement synchronizer kit(s) for the affected gear(s) plus seals and bearings recommended by the parts manual.

2) Remove transmission (brief outline)
- Disconnect battery.
- Remove driveshafts/propshaft, linkages, wiring harness connectors, speedometer cable, crossmembers as required.
- Support transmission on a trans jack and unbolt from engine bellhousing.
- Lower transmission carefully to bench.

3) Drain and external clean
- Drain any residual oil into pan, clean exterior with degreaser, cover openings to prevent contamination.

4) Disassembly to synchronizer level
- Remove bellhousing cover, shift linkage/top cover as needed.
- Remove snap rings and retaining plates using snap‑ring pliers. Keep parts in labeled trays in removal order.
- Remove shift forks and rails; note orientation and relative positions (mark if necessary).
- Slide off hub/sleeve assemblies from the main/lay shafts using a press or gentle mallet on a support shaft. Use a gear puller if hub is tight.
- Remove sliding sleeves from hubs, then remove the synchronizer rings (baulk rings) from gear cones.

Tool usage notes:
- Snap‑ring pliers: fit correctly to ring holes, compress steadily; avoid slipping which can deform ring.
- Press: support the shaft/gear with steady, centered pressure; use appropriate adapters so you press on the hub and not on the cones or gear teeth.
- Bearing puller: use jaws on the bearing outer race, pull evenly. If puller cannot grip, use heat (careful) or remove adjacent components to free bearing.

5) Inspection & measurement
Inspect every component for wear/damage:
- Synchronizer (baulk) rings: check cone face for wear, grooving, cracked or chipped teeth; measure thickness and engage face. Replace if any scoring, heat discoloration, or wear beyond specs.
- Cone surfaces on gears/hubs: check for wear or corrosion; if worn or grooved, replace gear or hub; resurfacing rarely practical.
- Hub and sleeve: check internal splines for wear, sleeve shift‑tooth integrity; excessive ovality or scoring → replace.
- Keys and springs: inspect for broken or deformed springs, worn key profiles; always replace springs and keys if not pristine.
- Shift forks: check fork tips for wear, bending or cracking; measure for clearance in hub; replace or grind only per manual.
- Bearings & races: spin and feel for roughness; measure clearances; replace worn bearings.
- Shafts: check for straightness and spline wear.
- Snap rings and thrust washers: replace if fatigued or worn.

Measurement guidance:
- Use micrometer to measure ring thickness and cone diameters; compare to service limits in workshop manual. If in doubt, replace rings.
- Use dial indicator to check main shaft endplay and gear backlash after reassembly. Follow manual limits.

Common replacement parts (recommended)
- Synchronizer ring(s) for affected gears.
- Hub and sleeve assemblies if worn or scoring present.
- Keys & springs for those hubs.
- Shift forks if worn or bent.
- Bearings, oil seals, gaskets, snap rings and thrust washers as required.
- Always replace oil with manufacturer‑specified grade and volume.

6) Cleaning & preparation for reassembly
- Clean all parts in solvent, dry thoroughly. Keep bearings and cone surfaces free of stray grit and fingerprints (oil).
- Lightly coat splines with assembly lube where required; do not contaminate cone friction faces with heavy oil — use specified assembly lubricant or very light film and after assembly ensure correct break‑in.

7) Reassembly of synchronizer
- Install new synchronizer rings onto gears: orient the ring so that the chamfers and notches match the hub sleeve engagement direction (baulk rings are directional — observe marking or cone taper direction).
- Fit spring/keys into the hub groove and slide the hub/sleeve assembly onto the shaft ensuring the springs seat correctly.
- Install new snap rings to secure hubs; ensure they seat fully in groove.
- Refit shift forks and rails in original orientation.
- Rotate and shift the hub/sleeve to ensure smooth engagement with gear and no binding.

Tool usage notes:
- Use press or soft‑jawed vise to seat hub without damaging cone surfaces.
- Use feeler gauges to check free travel between sleeve and hub where specified.
- Apply threadlocker where specified on bolts; torque to service manual figures using a calibrated torque wrench.

8) Setting endplay and checking backlash
- With assembly torqued to spec, measure shaft endplay with dial indicator; adjust shim pack or thrust washer as per manual to bring into spec.
- Check gear mesh backlash with dial indicator and adjust shims if needed.
- Confirm synchronizer operation: shift the sleeve across the cone; check for correct friction engagement and full engagement of gear teeth without interference.

9) Final assembly & sealing
- Reinstall bellhousing cover, gaskets and external components with new seals.
- Replace any worn linkage or bushings.
- Refill with correct grade and amount of transmission oil.
- Torque all fasteners to the vehicle workshop manual specifications.

10) Reinstall transmission & test
- Lift transmission into place, mate to engine, torque bolts to spec.
- Reconnect linkages, driveshafts, wiring.
- Start vehicle, test shifting while stationary (engine idling), then perform road test under safe conditions to confirm smooth shifts across all gears and no slipping or grinding.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Reusing worn synchronizer rings: they are often the root cause — replace rings rather than trying to dress cones.
- Mixing up directional rings or springs: rings and springs can be directional; mark orientation during disassembly and follow part markings.
- Damaging cone faces with press jaws: always support parts and press on hubs only; protect cone friction surfaces.
- Improper snap ring seating: unseated circlips can come loose and cause catastrophic failure. Verify ring sits in full groove 360°.
- Contaminating friction surfaces with oil/grease: keep cone faces dry and free of heavy lubrication; use only specified assembly lube.
- Incorrect endplay or backlash: failing to set shims/clearance leads to noise, premature wear, or bearing failure. Always measure with a dial indicator.
- Reusing fatigued springs, keys, bearings: these are inexpensive compared to a second tear‑down — replace if any doubt.
- Not checking shift forks: worn fork tips or worn hub bores will prevent proper engagement even with new rings.
- Loose fasteners / wrong torque: use torque wrench and threadlocker where specified.

Post‑repair checks
- Check for leaks after filling oil.
- Confirm shift feel at cold and warm operating temperature.
- Recheck torque on fasteners after initial test run (per manual service interval).
- After 200–500 km, re‑inspect trans oil level and look for signs of abnormal wear or metal in oil.

Notes on parts and technical specs
- Always source synchronizer rings and kits from OEM or equivalent high‑quality suppliers for correct metallurgy and fit.
- Replace bearings and seals during major teardown — they are low cost compared to rework.
- Use the Hino Dutro WU/XZU series workshop manual for model‑specific torque values, shim thickness tables, and wear limits — follow those specs precisely.

Result summary
- Proper synchronizer repair = remove transmission → disassemble to hubs → replace worn rings/hub/springs/parts → measure and set clearances/backlash/endplay → reassemble with correct torques & lubricants → test. Follow safety steps, replace consumables, and verify with dial indicator measurements.

No further questions.
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